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  2. It only matters if they are being passed off as original AR with consecutive numbering as part of the provenance. The joint on the right does not look like any of the joints on non euro classics that I have seen. You may know of exceptions. Otherwise they are appear to be a well done project that hopefully operate exactly as an AR3 should. Adams
  3. Today
  4. Why does it even matter?
  5. It seems improbable that these cabs were consecutive units when receiving serial numbers. Aadams
  6. Clearly the serial numbers are incorrect (and the date-stamp font is also incorrect along with the absence of the "C" in the serial number) for some reason, but I don't know why this would be unless the original serial numbers were pretty far apart and the seller felt that this might detract from their value, which it really won't. Consecutive serial numbers in AR speakers really don't mean anything, and it's fairly rare and usually "coincidental" that two have consecutive numbers. Serial numbers far apart do have significance with regard to components, crossovers, etc., but these two appear to have been built pretty close together. Send some pictures of the two speakers with their grills off, side-by-side. Also, pictures of the other crossover, if possible. These AR-3s are definitely early versions, likely dating to 1960-61. If you look at any of the drivers (the midrange or tweeter, particularly but sometimes on the woofer), you can usually find a date stamped on the back plate of the magnet circuit. Try to locate a stamped date. The presence of the oil-filled, mil-spec surplus crossover capacitors (the best kind, actually) clearly proves that these speakers date back to the earliest versions. Someone appears to have changed the level controls, however, as they don't look original to the AR-3. Woofer details are also present that show the orange surround color (before AR added lamp-black to the treatment), the damping ring around the outside of the woofer cone just inside the surround, and that sort of thing. The woofer has the Gen 2 cone annular rings and foam damping rings, which came about a year or so after the introduction of the AR-3, probably late 1960 or early 1961. The terminal strip is early, too, as mentioned before. I'm thinking that the original serial numbers for these speakers would be something in the C 04500 to C 07500 range or so. If both speakers work properly, then you're in fine shape with only the fraudulent "sequential" serial numbers and the wrong grill cloth material and relatively crude "3" pins. It doesn't appear that any drivers have been changed from the pictures you show, but I haven't seen both speakers. Look on the woofer magnet back plate to see if you can find a date stamp. --Tom Tyson
  7. A month later: the Pioneer arrived, it was filthy on the inside and had no audio output. A can of Deoxit cleaned the boards. A trip to a tech revealed it was missing jumpers. In short, feeding the CD-7s more power did help them open up. Just as important, though, the receiver has loudness controls for lower volume output. I'm still keeping an eye out for better speakers, but I do enjoy the CD-7s. austingonzo
  8. Another set. https://www.shopgoodwill.com/Item/72283175 austingonzo
  9. I agree with Gerry 100%. Bi-amping is somewhat of a solution to which there is no problem. Years ago, with under-powered amplifiers, audiophiles often resorted to bi-amping speakers to get higher output levels with lower distortion. However, with the ADS L1590-2 -- as with most modern loudspeaker systems -- the passive crossover is an integral part of the design of the loudspeaker, and to bypass the crossover can be problematic. In fact, ADS spent about two years researching improvements in the design of their tower speakers (the 1090, 1290 and 1590 in the Series II version) to make them even better, and most of the improvements came in the crossover itself with driver enhancements. Therefore, removing or bypassing the crossover altogether can lead to serious spectral-balance issues, when using an outboard active crossover, which could result in some frequencies favoring others along with a serious issue with the shape and slope of the acoustic-power response into a room. Many times, audiophiles feel that they know better than the designers, and they can improve on the original design, but this is usually a false premise. In other words, the engineers at ADS knew very much what they were doing when they designed and improved these speakers; why screw with their professional work? Place the speakers in an acoustically "proper" listening room, large enough to appreciate the bandwidth of the speakers and a room properly damped with furniture and floor treatment. Again, use an appropriately powerful and stable power amplifier. If the crossover is left in place, however, separating the woofer section from the treble section does not accomplish much of anything, and to get the proper balance is sometimes difficult. There is always the issue of getting the two section out of phase along with the relative balance of the output. With an adequately powered amplifier; i.e., an amplifier with 200-300+ watts output, the sound of the 1590 should be fine without the need to bi-amp. I drove my ADS L1590-2s with several different high-powered amplifiers over time, but mostly I used a Threshold 500-watt amp or McIntosh MC2500, and there were times when the Mac "Limit" lights flashed on peaks, meaning that peaks were greater than 1kW into each channel. I did have a good friend with a pair of L1290s, and he chose to biamp his setup with the crossover in place. He struggled to get the sound properly balanced, and ultimately he returned it to a single-amp operation. With my ADS L1590-2 system, I never once detected any weakness, distortion or lack of clarity from these speakers, a hallmark of the excellent design of the ADS speakers. I did mount them back within about a foot of the front short wall and away from the room corners in my large, well-damped listening room of about 15' x 23' or so. I was always amazed at how clean and effortless these speakers sounded, with clear, balanced output and low-distortion deep bass. --Tom Tyson
  10. Hello, and welcome to the forum. Which model.....KLH-1....or KLH One? Do you have any pics of the stands you are seeking information about? Each of these speaker models is pretty rare, even though they were produced almost 25 years apart.
  11. Got one! I'll be posting about it when I can start cleaning adn evaluating it. Peter
  12. Yesterday
  13. Hi, I'm new to the form and was wondering if anyone out there has a pair of the KLH 1 speakers with the stands? I recently acquired a pair without the stands and would like to build a pair of stands dimensionally correct? Any information would be greatly appreciated.
  14. Thanks Giorgio. By the way, my friend is asking what’s happen when he remove the white glue arround mid range speaker? Could you help? thanks
  15. Very nice! Did you use a template for the woofer recess?
  16. First clue the type of terminal block for tweeter and midrange cables and the type of midrange (study The AR3 restoration guide). Congratulations on the wonderful pair of early AR3 in your hands! Giorgio.
  17. Hey, that new Smaller Advent cabinet looks so good that you might even begin receiving orders for new pairs! That's some really fine work, and it's clear that you have the tools and woodworking skills to take on such an ambitious project. Not sure if this idea appeals to you, but at this point I would take advantage of the opportunity to ditch those silly little six wood/velcro stand-offs and find a more integrated method to attach the grille frame - - this is what I am doing with my recent resto-mod project. Thx for the heads-up on the Varathane product, too - - - I know MInwax makes a "gun stock" stain which is a very similar shade of reddish brown. Your KLH Twenty-Two's look very good, too - - - is that a different grille cloth from the one used on your Advents? And, in your very first pic where you show the old cabinet with new veneer, is that an AR-7 or a small Dynaco speaker lurking along the left edge of the photo?
  18. Do you still have deck and want to sell it?
  19. I’m wondering how can you know the pairs is low series number
  20. Hello Tyson really appriciate for prompt and details reply i attached here is the link for more picture https://xfl.jp/vm1nUL I think the series number should be the fake one as per your findings. But i just curiously why people doing this fake?
  21. I have owned KLH 40 since 1973. I originally purchased one in 1973 from Cramer Electronics in Boston. Had problems with the transport and the electronics. They replaced the deck 2 or 3 times. But none worked well. Then in 1974 I acquired 2 brand new transports, without the electronic, at a surplus outlet (B&E Enterprise). In 1975 KLH gave me for free the electronic box that mounts under the transport. It took me several months to fine tune the circuits and the transport logic. I have regularly used it since then. I have a collection of reel to reel's, but KLH 40 is the best. Even now, after nearly 45 years, it works perfectly. The only things I have changed are the heads (with the 2nd donor unit I'd acquired) and the transport push buttons. It is still in an absolute mint condition, in a walnut cabinet.
  22. The hour is late, but I have plenty of pictures.....give me a couple of days, and I'll put them up! The Eminence has a much larger dust cap and cone that distinguish it from the originals. I think they would be fine for All except in the A1's they need to go in as a matched pair. Additionally, the gaskets need to be doubled up when you put 2 in the old A1 cabinets otherwise, the magnets bang into each other, as they were intended for the newer generation A1. circa 2002. Bill
  23. Are there visual difference between the Eminence replacement and an original? Would you have a photo of the replacement Eminence woofer? Just want to be sure if I find a woofer, I can identify the Eminence version. Per your experience with these, we should steer clear of these for replacements in our A1, A3, A9, CD9s? Are the T/S parameters the same on the Eminence version as the original OEM Allisons?
  24. I have one of those “eminence” woofers NOS. that I bought in 2000. Actually, I bought 2 at the time. One went away on EBay inside one of the A1 speakers sold off years ago. I should sell this one soon before the surround deteriorates. At that time they were approved by RA in the reincarnated A1s but I found out they don’t mix well (One Eminence, one original) in the same cabinet. I was using a Subwoofer with an 80hz. Crossover, so the difference under those conditions was not a problem. Bill
  25. Thanks for the observations. What I would like to see are the metrics for the inside of the ic10 box. I realize these are rare. I am just curious about the ic10s compared to the Ones. Allison states that the exterior of the ic10 is the same as the One. The tweeters and midst are basically the same as well. The ic10s front panels does seem to extend a bit more than the Ones.. The ic10s are about 1250 cu inches bigger than the Ones. That is nearly the volume of a A4 (1265 cu in). Allison measured internal volume without factoring in displacement of drives...just gross volume. I verified this on my A3, C8s.
  26. Greetings, I understand that the later oem replacement woofers for Allison One woofers were made by Eminence for Allison. How different are these from the originals? Does anyone have photos of them or Thiele/Small parameters? I see on ebay someone is selling Allison One speakers. ..too cheap, don't look like mine.
  27. I’m a newbie here and I gotta say this thread/site is awesome! I love learning about the history of these speakers, especially because all my family is from Fort Worth and Oklahoma and I listen to my Norman 11s every day. My dad purchased them in Tyler in the late 70’s/early 80’s and they still work perfect. I’ll try to post a pic of them... I just have to figure out how lol
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