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  2. I'm having a little trouble seeing the hole in your woofer. Is the hole stuffed with a piece of foam? A hole can be easily fixed: Tear a patch from a coffee filter and glue it in place with Aleene's Tacky Glue. But it looks like there are other issues. The damper ring appears to be missing as does the dust cap. Maybe other members can figure this out. The tweeter doesn't look to have "popped" yet but there are solutions for that, too: Buy another tweet on ebay (But these are near the end of their useful lives), have the tweeter rebuilt by CSP member Chris, replace with Hi-Vi tweeters. The 2ax IS worth restoring. And of course the crossover is all wrong. If the EV cabinets are OK, you could keep them. Unless you hate the look. You have not mentioned the fiberglass stuffing. Is it there? Easy to replace if it's missing. Or....Part it out if the project seems daunting in terms of labor and cost. One has to wonder why the previous owner did this mod. Kent
  3. Your speaker cabinets started out as Electro Voice speakers.
  4. The second cabinet was in better cosmetic condition, so let's open it up... A lot more dirty, and the speakers aren't in as good of shape. The woofer has a small hole and the tweeter is lifting. Pretty disappointing seeing the other cabinet was in worse shape. I'm not too bummed seeing the speakers were kind of a throw-in, but with having to rebuild the cabinets, are these speakers worth the time/money/effort? I am not too familiar with these speakers and was looking forward to the project, but I am starting to think maybe these would be better parted out and given a new home.
  5. Aloha all, I kind of hijacked someone else's thread with a similar topic, so here I go. I purchased an turntable console as a project, mainly because I wanted the old idler turntable. It came with the turntable (Rek-O-Kut B-12H), a Mattes-Martin Preamp, and these massive homemade speaker cabinets. The cabinet the turntable and preamp were housed in was pretty termite eaten and. Ended to be trashed. I've rebuilt the turntable, minus a plinth, and it turned out great. I haven't been able to get both channels to work on the preamp as the corrosion is pretty bad (I really want to get it going), no matter how much Deoxit I use. On to the speakers... Cabinets built like a tank but super dated. Not kidding when I say they weigh at least 80lbs each. One is in better shape than the other, so I tore apart the worser of the two. Here are the pics of what I got, looks like converted AR-2 into a AR-2xa? Homemade crossover as well, never tested the speakers but the first one is clean.
  6. Thanks again everyone. Be looking for my new thread soon! I have a few hurdles in this project, mainly being my budget. Looks like it's time to sell some stuff!
  7. Agreed. Welcome Clint. A new thread will cut down on the confusion between your project and Eddy's. Do your speakers work and sound OK? New cabs would be nice but as ra.ra. mentioned make sure the internal volume (and the amount of fiberglass stuffing) is the same as the original. Not sure what's going on with that crossover but an original crossover would be appropriate too. You may be able to re-use the inductors if one is 1.13mH. Kent
  8. Looking forward to seeing these mongrels, you should start a new thread for this though. good call Larry
  9. I understand that you get no sound, but the whole idea of using a scope is to see where the failure exists. If you get "no sound", but you can see voltage exists across the tweeter, then the tweeter is most likely dead. On the other hand, if you apply voltage to the main speaker terminals and can not see anything across the tweeter, then this explains why you get no sound. It also means the failure is in those damn pots or not as likely in the cap. Regards, Jerry
  10. I agree. I'd love to find a pair in that good of a condition! Also, I've heard (and owned) the AR48's, which are very similar to the 38's. I own a pair of AR-1MS speakers too, that use the same tweeter and midrange (I believe), in a mini-monitor design. To me, both speakers sound very fine. Good sound staging and depth, with an open, balanced sound. Nothing hyped or over blown; just natural sounding.
  11. Marco that looks in great condition. Nice find
  12. Yes, that's an important distinction.
  13. I have never heard the AR-38LS or the AR-38B. I have owned the smaller AR-18B and 28B - - both 8" two-ways - - and they are both very good simple speakers. AR woofers are almost always excellent, but I suspect the unique personality of the 38LS or 38B lies with that combination mid-tweet assembly. Apparently, that dual driver was good enough for AR to use in the larger AR-48B and AR-58B also (see pic), so I suspect these are all pretty fine loudspeakers. The USA models in this series all have vinyl cladding and a rounded bullnose front cabinet profile. It is not clear if the Euro models employed vinyl or real wood veneer, but the square edge styling of the Euro models is far preferable in my opinion.
  14. Yesterday
  15. Bordious, if you do ever do run across some AR2ax cabinets, you want to make sure they are the older style with the 11 1/4 in. woofer cutouts. The newer versions used a smaller woofer frame (same size cone) with a 10 1/2 in. cutout. Both versions used the same size 4 1/2 in tweeter flange, just different drivers.
  16. Thanks for all the help and info. I'll try and break out the other speaker, I've kinda been lagging on it because the first one took a while just to disassemble while making sure I don't ruin the insides.
  17. And what is your impression about this speakers?
  18. Many many thanks ra.ra!
  19. those are later versions of the original AR18. I have 2 pair. both have the dual dust caps on the woofer. one pair of mine has the contour control switches, the other pair does not. both of mine have a masonite board that the binding posts and crossover are mounted to, not a plastic cup like yours (never seen those on something this old, in fact, my 58S's have a masonite board as well). wonder if that's a variation due to european manufacture.... I was able to find NOS grilles on ebay....otherwise I would have made my own out of a wood frame and speaker cloth...
  20. Thanks again, for the very detailed drawings! Caps already done - a 6.9uF and 6.5uF removed. (6.0 claimed) and two 5.94uF Solen poly's from Falcon Acoustics fitted. Astonishing performance - keepers for sure. yup, UK, Scotland. DC
  21. In the library section of this website, go to Acoustic Research, then Special sections, then AR International, then Brochures, and then "Extended Research" Brochure, and you'll find a brochure that includes your model. It's a little difficult to read. Also, there might be additional information in the Drawings section, but it takes does some time to research that section. It's very possible your model is the same as the AR-38B (first pic shown) in the USA just with a slightly different cabinet. More info here - check your speakers with the info shown in final post here.
  22. Hey David, those speakers look great and thx for the pics. Every thing about that woofer looks fine and normal - - - if you look at the info from the AR production drawings for this driver, you can clearly see the two caps - - the inner flat (item 9) and the outer cosmetic domed cap (item 21). It hadn't occurred to me at first, but now with your pics and mention of Tannoy and Castle, I have to presume you are in Europe, possibly the UK? Only with Euro AR-18's have I ever noticed that recessed plastic terminal cup (with embossed AR logo) with metal knurled nut terminals - - the USA version is slightly different on the backside. While you're in there, it's a good idea to replace the cap - - those black/red caps marketed under various names (Alcap, Callins, Temple....) can be found in many vintage speakers, but it has been documented that they very often measure far from original specs. Spend a few quid and get two new replacements - - the AR-18's are worth this minuscule investment.
  23. Thanks! Pics attached. It has a label as you described (200001-1 561 8043 made in USA), and plain binding posts with no contour control. There's an old 6uF Alcap (black resin with brown endcaps) in series with the tweeter. I did find one forum - can't find it now - where they mentioned that the two letter code on the front label (EJ in my case) may have signified the manufacturing plant. There was no grill when I got them last week but the small hook discs on the face were usually used to locate simple foam sheets on Castle and Tannoy speakers of the early 'eighties. I remember 18S's having wood-framed grills with locating pins and holes, covered in brown fabric, if memory serves. I was considering blanking off one tweeter hole and relocating it to the opposite side to give a mirror image pair, but I'll leave them now as they may be even more unusual than an 18S.
  24. Their demo video is great and the surrounds look like the correct ones. Large roll, floppy, etc. Doug
  25. Thanks for the link! Doug
  26. I have gotten dents mostly out of a couple of very early original Advent tweeters by using a needle and pricking the little dome and lifting the dent out and then using a cellulose-type glue to plug the hole(s) left by the needle. The cone on the later units are made of the same material so you should be able to do the same thing. They didn't end up perfect because the cone material is pretty stiff but they are at least convex again instead of concave. Doug
  27. Hallo, I've found on selling a pair of AR38LS in Italy. They are in very good condition, but I can't find any information in your library about this model. Can anyone help me?
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