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  2. Here's where it's at now. I used a different tonearm tube to allow for easier headshell swapping. Also put a little dampening underneath and in the tonearm tube, as well as worked over all the bearing surfaces. With what I consider to be a mediocre cartridge (Stanton 500ii/Pickering DE stylus), this thing sounds beautiful. I'm sending the arm off to Marc on AK in a few days and I'm actually disappointed I won't be able to listen to it...
  3. Today
  4. OK I have to admit I was wrong about this, but mainly because I overlooked mechanical resonances. I have only skim read the Clarity Caps paper, but it is interesting that they had to take a new line of approach after a panel of ordinary listeners failed to give them any meaningful and useable results in ABX tests. They then moved on to using a panel of skilled/trained/critical listeners and even then around 10% thought the sound was worse, about 30% thought it was the same, and about 60% thought it was better. So yes statistically they have proven something, but it is not overwhelming, night and day differences for your average Joe. I agree with RoyC that it seems of dubious worth using expensive speciality caps to replace electrolytics in vintage speakers which were designed using electrolytics. Replacing like with like will replicate more accurately the electrical measurements of the original cap thereby maintaining the system's original sound
  5. Debating brands of film capacitors intended to replace original electroytic caps in 40+/- year old speakers is absurd. As stated above, all of the components of a system have an effect on the outcome. This does not mean, however, that using expensive film capacitors will improve a design previously based on capacitors having different characteristics. If we were designing a system from the ground up today using high end capacitors with minimal ESR, and super DF factor, etc, later replacing those film caps with electrolytic caps would be detrimental to the sound of our new design. Well, It works both ways. You are more likely to bring the sound back in line with your expectations with some well placed series resistors, or the replacement of the new film caps with electrolytic caps. "By-pass caps", which, in my opinion, are dubious in terms of benefit, will just lower series resistance (ESR) a bit more than it already is...which is already much lower than it originally was due to your new film caps. You are not the first person to be disappointed by the replacement of the original electrolytic capacitors with film caps in an old speaker. A more subtle option would be to try some polyester/mylar film capacitors, which provide a bit more series resistance than polypropylene caps. Perhaps some original components were chosen by the design engineers based on cost or lack of something more sophisticated at the time, BUT these successful speakers were engineered around these components, and swapping one crossover component for something with different characteristics is not automatically an "upgrade", regardless of cost or superior construction. For the record, Ken Kantor has stated that a capacitor "burns in" within a few seconds of its initial usage. A person adapts to any changes in the sound much more than any changes taking place in the capacitor. He also believes using film caps to replace electrolytic capacitors in classic/vintage speakers designed around electrolytic caps is a waste of money, and can yield inferior results. Roy
  6. New member and a first time posting. Has anyone ever attempted to recover a damaged OLA Orange Fried Egg Tweeter. It would seem to be a relatively simple procedure if anyone fabricates the a cone/dome replacement. The tweeter was damaged when the Masonite plate pulled away from the base. The lead wires broke free and tore away from the cone. Currently own four Walnut OLA's, restoring a set of OLA Utility and just received set of Powered Large Advents for Christmas. I had a pair of used APALs for a summer in the early 80's. I returned them when one of the Amps intermittently failed to power up. Just before Christmas I stumbled across a set at a pawnshop. The wife swooped in and picked them up for me. $125 electrical repair later (one unit continually went into protect mode) and I now have a working set for just under $500. My pair of OLA's from High School are still in service at my Home Room Teacher house.
  7. @DavidDru and @Stimpy I'm curious what you two are leaning towards for caps in the tweeter and UMR series caps. It seems that to go from the 'everyday' MKP caps to the next step up in film caps it gets expensive; especially because you need to start paralleling caps to get the correct value for the 6uF.
  8. I bought some of those Vishay 0.01uF by-pass caps. 99 cents a piece. I have not tried any yet to see if they are snake oil or not.
  9. Thanks gentlemen. Since the Dayton F&F bypass caps are so cheap, I'll get a bunch of them the next time I place an order. Perhaps I'll bypass the tweeter caps as well as the UMR caps. I'll stock up on resistors too.
  10. Hi Peeps....just a shot but if anyone has or knows anyone that might have the Heathkit speaker badge, I would be interested in buying the pair. Have a pair of Heathkit AS-103"s without them and would like to have to finish them off nice. Thanks! Pic shows it and don't if this same badge was on their other items but hope so.......
  11. I've no direct experience with Solen caps (yet), so take my comments as such; I only know from what I've read in forums and in reviews. As such, Solens are reported as being bright, and better suited as being used in electronics, and not for speaker crossovers. However, it's also said that Solen caps can be improved in sound quality by adding a bypass cap. I've used bypass caps, and never heard any issues with using them. The Vishay capacitor is said to work very well for this. Vishay Parts Express also has a line of Film & Foil bypass capacitors, which I've used and liked. Dayton F&F Both brands are cheap enough that you could buy a few of each and compare...! Good luck, and let us know how they work out, if you try the bypass caps.
  12. I believe it was Roy who told me the Solens being 'labelled' as bright/harsh was because they were easy to get and a popular choice when people first began recapping with film caps. They got that label early and it spread.They probably aren't anymore 'bright/harsh' as any other cap in its class/price range. You might give it some time and play pink noise thru it. Carl suggested that to me a while ago. You could also add a resistor and see how it sounds.
  13. Yesterday
  14. Regarding Carl's response to my thoughts that the 24uF Solen might be responsible for the brightness in the UMR: Carl, do you have any suggestions as to how I might tone it down a bit? Add a resistor? Bypass cap? Rip it out and replace with electrolytic, or another brand of polyprop? Thanks.
  15. Probably if it replaced an electrolytic.
  16. Well I don't know if various brands of polypropylene caps sound perceptably different, but the polyprops that I installed certainly yield much more definition than what was in that original AR design. But the trade off seems to be that the polyprops are much more unforgiving. I've read in one of these threads that the Solen caps sound brighter to some people. I used a 24uF Solen in the UMR crossover. I'm wondering if that cap is responsible for the brightness.
  17. That's totally screwed up. Sorry to say, if the tweeters were wired to the woofer circuit they may be fried. Look at the scematics and diagrams here: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library/klh/klh_5_klh_model_five/klh_5_schematicsservice/ On all drivers, the black wire is negative. Positive wires are: Red--woofer. White--mid. Yellow--tweeter So.... Remove the woofers, the crinoline cloth and all of the fiberglass stuffing from each speaker. FG can be itchy so you may want gloves and a mask. Put the FG for each speaker in a plastic bag to save for re-use. Now carefully examine the crossovers (pictures would help) and trace the red, white and yellow wires. There should be one of each color and at the far end each will be connected, using wire nuts, to the appropriate drivers. Except yours are not. So wire them correctly and see if that works. You don't have to put the stuffing back in or even fasten the woofer securely. It will sound crummy but you are just checking to see that all 4 drivers work. Good luck. Kent
  18. I did pull a tweeter on one and it had red and black wires. The strange part is the positive was tied into the woofer positive with the small black wire nut. I ran out of time at that point but will open them back up this weekend. And yes, I've been reading up on recapping/restoring these. They appear to worth the effort.
  19. Perhaps when people hear a difference between various polypro caps it has to do with purity of the film, type of metalization and purity, winding, and termination of the ends. It certainly answers why some cost way more than a standard MKT or MKP. Example
  20. Weird. The yellow is the tweeter + and it should be connected to the tweeter lead with a wire nut. The wire nuts don't normally fall off. I dunno. Suggest you pull the tweets and find the connection point, re-connect them. Then see if they work. There are threads here on restoring the Fives. Re-capping is a must, so is sealing the woofer surrounds with Roy's goo. I'd also suggest refinishing the cabinets--they tend to get dull and orange over time. -Kent
  21. Clarity Cap in the UK did a comprehensive study of mechanical resonances in audio Capacitors 7 years ago (link to study summary below) which led to the development of their MR series. The solution was improved winding technology which the Germans have also adopted. Only they haven't made a marketing campaign out of it.. http://www.partsconnexion.com/t/claritycap/Reseach_Summary.pdf I fiddled with some caps years ago and found some of them emitted a sound when connected in series with an 8 ohm dummy load and driven by a function generator tied to an amplifier. It didn't take too many volts of input to get some caps to literally 'sing'.
  22. Me, I believe every component contributes to the overall sound of a piece of gear, and as a system, as a whole. Every wire, resistor, capacitor, inductor, and transistor. Different circuit topographies sound different too. I've spent too many years doing audio mastering, not to notice differences. Are all differences obvious; no. Some are very subtle, and can only be heard during careful, controlled auditioning. Can everyone hear the differences; again no. But, some do, and those are the listeners where these discussions matter. Scientific proof is nice and welcome, though for me, not 100% necessary. Life's too short to not trust what I hear and enjoy. Your mileage may vary!
  23. I do not buy this. Capacitors have no 'sound' of their own no matter how well they are constructed. What they have is electrical properties. If another 'widget' was used which replicated perfectly the electrical measurements across the frequency range in which it operated exactly matching the electrical measurements of the 'super capacitor', then I believe we could interchange the widget for the super capacitor with no alteration to the resulting sound when that widget or super capacitor is used in a crossover. Is there anyone who believes otherwise?
  24. Jantzen, Clarity Cap, Audyn, and Mundorf seem to use similar winding techniques when manufacturing their capacitors (from what I've read). Plus, all 4 stress these techniques as being critical to the sound quality of their various lines of capacitors. So, I'd be open to trying any of these brands. All have somewhat affordable entry level lines of caps. Then maybe one of their better caps as a bypass. Should be something worth trying.
  25. I picked up a pair of 5's yesterday from a friend. Neither tweeter was operational. I opened one up and noticed a the bare end of a yellow wire wrapped around the small black wire nuts of the woofer. I removed the stuffing to view the crossover. The yellow wire is connected to a terminal block on the crossover right next to a resistor. I opened the second speaker up and sure enough there's the bare end of a yellow wire with the other end connected to the crossover in this speaker also. It doesn't appear these speakers have ever been opened up. Any idea what's going on here? Thanks
  26. Rich, I'm excited! This response seems much better than the one you posted some days ago, and I'm curious to understand if you got it with the equalizer and if the modifications you've done affected the bass response. Thanks! Best regards, Vincenzo
  27. Dear Aadams, thanks for reporting the SteveF thread. It's very interesting what you mention, that equalizers may help to a point that apparently different speakers may behave similarly. Also, I tend to listen quite a bit music from the laptop through foobar which has a graphic equalizer, and perhaps this is a great and cheap way to play a little bit with it. I'm not familiar with the equalizer at all, but perhaps it may help a little bit to improve the system room interaction. I hope that system dynamics is not affected, but of course this requires some experiments first. Regarding the AR-7 doubling towards LST, this seems a fascinating option: perhaps I may consider it whenever we move to a larger apartment. I was wondering whether conclusions may be considered or not similar to what you get stacking two AR-7 pairs (seems not actually....), that seemed to give non optimal results as I read in some previous posts. Thanks! Best regards, Vincenzo
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