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  2. Boston T 930 II Information

    Thanks,I know(I read) that Jerry helped design them.I would like to know what the individual speakers are supposed to be (on ohm meter) Every one I have questioned is either 4,or 6 ohm.I am very confused at this point.Rob
  3. Boston T 930 II Information

    You might try to PM Gerry S. and/or Steve F and alert them to this thread. It would be good to know if the 930 and 1030 shared the same midrange, or any other BA speakers. Also if the woofer is the same 10" as in any other models.
  4. I'm with you guys. It is hard to imagine how many people have been duped by this publication over the years. Expensive nonsense... Roy
  5. Boston T 930 II Information

    Thanks PeteB.I just wanted to make sure of speaker compatibility.I would like to put them back to original. I always look on ebay,I guess I will just keep looking,have not found any except other replacement speakers.I was not sure if other speaker models used the same drivers.Rob
  6. T930 Series II

    The T930 II with the 6" midrange over tweeter reminds me very much of the PSB Stratus Gold, they even have similar crossover network designs. PSB's are vented and VERY well done. Interesting that in searching for a picture I found a tweeter over mid version that I'd never seen before, so they did the flip also: This speaker uses a custom 6.5" Vifa mid that is very similar to one off the shelf and the very common aluminum dome tweeter from the 1990s with a custom faceplate.
  7. Boston T 930 II Information

    More on these speakers with comments from the designers: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?/topic/3825-t930-series-ii/ I'd look on ebay for replacement drivers, on the other hand they are fairly cheap as complete speakers so you might just look for another pair. Make sure that you get the series II version which is better.
  8. BA T1000's AND T1030's

    Charles, I bought both of the T1030 crossovers figuring that the circuit is common to one that I use and the inductors are probably close to what I use - I can wind them up or down for whatever I need. But if you want them I'll measure them and then we can work out a deal. One thing I noticed about the T1000 XO is that zobels are used where most designers are able to avoid them, the T1030 doesn't use them. I like the T1030 XO better.
  9. BA T1000's AND T1030's

    I'd use Bennic NPE caps to replace all of the NPE types, the film cap is probably fine. I can measure T&S parameters but I don't have any of the drivers. Gerry says that the drivers are the same, yet they don't look the same? The T1000 woofers and mids look like Peerless (maybe the old CC line) and those in the T1030 look custom to BA, perhaps they cloned the performance? There's a pair of T1030's for sale in FL that I want, anyone making a trip from FL to the North East any time soon who can pony express them for me, LOL?
  10. Dynacos stuffing replacement!

    Hi there Here is my 2 cents worth of advice for this evening. With the classic Dynaco A-25's etc unless the cap is defective, such as is open, leave it alone. Some folks replace the caps with new ones and are happy. With the resistors unless you see one or more cracked or burnt up, which I've never seen, leave alone as well. Some folks replace the resistors and are happy. The cabinets fiberglass insulation was particularly fine material and without question should be left intact. There is much synthetic material which might do as good a job but without test equipment you will likely end up with less than you started with. The vent opening was covered with a particular piece of fiberglass which was determined by lab equipment. The switches were of good quality and very reliable. Wire was adequate for the job. Overall the Dynaco A-25 and family are well designed at a dollar compromise. No foam rot is a big plus issue. When a replacement driver is needed there was so many sold that there is a flood of used OEM drivers available. Vern
  11. The only thing artificially colored is his ego.....
  12. Boston T 930 II Information

    I just came across a pair of B-A T 930 II.The tweeters work fine,but the midrange's and basses flutters and chirpped at just under 50 watts.All controls were flat.I know now the the bass speakers are transplants,they read low 5 ohm.I pulled one of the midrange speakers,it had Made in taiwan stamped on the back.I guess my question would be,what are the actual specs for the individual speakers? Also,I can not seem to find replacement speakers,even ones needing surrounds,Any help would be appreciated.Rob
  13. Yesterday
  14. Restoration stopped at woofer

    RoyC, dxho, and anyone I missed. Thank you all for your input. I was lucky enough to talk to Bill today. With that being said...I will take the time and money. It's a little more than I thought it would be, but was assured that given their garage kept condition (it still looks new inside...I can still tell which end they grabbed to tear the rock wool) an excellent free find, and I got lucky. Hopefully, I can figure this in to April's bills. He also said to replace nothing until they are fully up, and operational (all drivers running) for at least a week or more...because I may not have to, or want to replace anything else. I will start puttering with the little stuf...I promise to do my best, and not screw this up. Again, thank you all for your help, and will keep updating. I am really getting curious as to what these may have sound(ed) like now...
  15. OSA Woofer Design

    This is really very simple. Make the woofer suspension very loose, then the box air spring dominates the compliance and you set the cone/dust cap mass to resonate with the air spring at about 42 Hz (Fc). Give the voice coil enough overhang to get the displacement that you need and set the magnet size to control the peak or lack thereof at Fc. The tight air spring due to the small box requires high moving mass to obtain the low Fc, this is why the moving mass is high. They probably found that the big heavy dust cap was the best way to increase the moving mass without causing increased cone breakup.
  16. OSA Woofer Design

    Thank you for the info, but I was mainly asking why is the dust cap weighted so much? What is the purpose of this?
  17. People do not want to believe the research, there is no point in trying to convince them. I'd keep the lower limit just do not expect a small speaker to perform like a big one - common sense. The two speakers need to have similar large signal capability. I probably don't know the current market well enough, perhaps the Infinity Primus 363 and if they MUST have sealed plug the ports and EQ to get the bass back. Add a sealed sub crossed very low if you need more bass. I don't see any issue using speakers that are 20-30 years old rather than 50 and just having some work done one them even if you have to pay for it.
  18. The news still hasn't spread much beyond engineering circles IMO. I have seen this opinion asserted in this forum in way-back threads but can't recall it being tied to AES research. Still, good to hear. Anyway, the OP wants to use new product rather than old, what approach do you suggest? Note: I changed to 200-12000 above because 6" ported mini speakers begin to differentiate below 200hz in my experience. Adams
  19. That was reported in the AES ages (decades) ago, IIRC it was from research at JBL. AR people believe that acoustic suspension bass is different/unique so that is why I chose a BA speaker, one that I happen to like.
  20. Evidence from an expert supporting my own experience that from around 200 to 12000hz any reasonably linear full range speaker can be equalized to have the character of another speaker. They are never identical but can sometimes be very close. I congratulate myself. Aadams
  21. Simple and direct with a stamp of authority lent by the sophistication of a portmanteau word. Adams
  22. Just think how much better these 2 way ported boxes with 8 inch woofers would sound if they cost $65,000 a pair instead of a measly $6,500? A man would need to invent new superlatives! My "favorite" line in the trashing of Edgar Villchur - "I can hear their tweeters calling to me when I'm in the next room, making a phone call. I can hear their boxes hissing and groaning even after I turn off the stereo." Villchur's AR speakers initiated me into the world of high fidelity over 50 years ago now. For the scope of his life's work he stands as a personal hero to me. And the "*" stands for the letter i as in bullshit artist, which this reviewer most certainly is.
  23. Lost AR-2ax

    Most of what you might be looking for is in the older posts.I am pretty new here myself,and I asked the same questions,Most of the subjects on your speakers ,will be here,in detail,with pics.Good luck.Rob
  24. Thanks Robert! I just checked the 12 listing and they lowered the price to 350.00. Thanks for the tip on the mid driver. I'll take a look. That song sounds great, good to hear it sounded good on a set of computer speakers! Glenn
  25. Snell Type A (original) crossover update

    Bought 2 pairs of type Aiii about 2 months ago, unfortunately, I do not have the same money to drive them with 2 Conrad Johnson as the previous owner did.. I am very sure that my old Sansui Quad QRX 7001 isnt even near of delivering the power for those beasts, and imagine I hooked up the 2 pairs to it... So to say, I find that the mids and highs are harsh too, but in my mind, it could be the caps from the receiver too right? what do you do when you're only a music lover with great ears? I ve had hi fi before with Celestion A2 and McCormack amp and preamp... So here comes the question; are we supposed to take out the crossovers and have them maintenanced? is it mathematically sure that you have to change the caps after many years? A preamp and 2 amps will come in before 2 to 3 months, by then I will be able to tell if the harsness comes from my old amp Thanks guys!
  26. My AR4 tale of misery

    You're absolutely right, and this is exactly what I'm talking about. In the past, for this purpose, I've used a simple two-part epoxy by JB Weld that mixes up to a paste-like consistency, and it has worked well for anchoring the T-nuts with a little finger dab (latex or nitrile glove required, and always check your efforts with a little mirror). For strengthening that shredded wheat p-board, CSP member and cabinet-meister GD70 often advocates a product called Z-poxy (I have not tried it but am eager to do so), which is much more fluid and tends to seep into the "wood" to bind it all together, making it stronger than it ever was. For the record, your project here appears to pertain to the AR-4x speaker model, and not the AR-4. Easily confused, but in fact rather different speakers.
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