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  1. Yesterday
  2. boreas

    KLH 12 woofer vs KLH 5

    Thank you, Kent.
  3. DavidR

    AR Tweeter replica/replacement

    I'm very appreciative of all the help and advice from the community.
  4. JKent

    KLH 12 woofer vs KLH 5

    I'm not 100% certain but I think it will be OK.
  5. ra.ra

    AR Tweeter replica/replacement

    I've only half-heartedly been following the details in this thread, but I really love it when these projects share specific "how-to" solutions that come from a close examination of the excellent drawings in the Library.
  6. Last week
  7. fedeleluigi

    AR Tweeter replica/replacement

    Open the AR 10 PI "door". You should very gently detach the three black "cups" ( 5, 27 on the drawing). They are glued to wood so use a cutter blade to very delicately detach them. Be careful not to deform the black cups! Under the three cups there are three nuts (4 on the drawing) and you have to unscrew them and then the PCB can be removed. Anyway if the rivets are not oxidated, I would not remove the PCB from the cabinet. I would only detach the faston terminals one by one to clean them. Without removing the switch board you have to use a mirror or take a photo to see if the PCB rivets are oxidated or not. Obviously, also some other AR such as AR9 may have the same sort of PCB oxidation problems or some old solder joint issue. Should you decide to remove the switch PCB remember to resolder all the old solder joints present on the PCB itself.
  8. DavidR

    AR Tweeter replica/replacement

    How is the switch terminal board removed from the cabinet ?
  9. fedeleluigi

    AR Tweeter replica/replacement

    I forgot in my previous posts to suggest that you clean from oxidation the numerous electrical connectors (faston terminal) present on the switch PCB in the AR 10 PI. The faston terminal oxidation could be a cause for detail loss. Before detaching the numerous faston terminal from the switch PCB, take carefully note of their wire colour and precise position on the PCB otherwise it will be impossible to reconnect them in the right position. Probably, to be on the safe side, it's better to clean one by one. In the last picture, the oxidation present at the rivets of the faston terminals is also a certain cause of signal (and detail) loss. You should check out this possible problem as well.
  10. Aadams

    AR Tweeter replica/replacement

    Of course, you are correct. The best tools can always be used ineffectively to get unsatisfying results. One may prefer the sound of properly working 91 but it will not sound like a properly working 3a except at unrealistic listening distances. Yes the verticals had something extra. They would go to 11. Adams
  11. owlsplace

    AR-4x's

    The AR-4 series are AR's perennial favorite speakers. As long is there is something available to power them they will be playing for many years to come no doubt. And they make great projects if you have time to kill... Here a few that ended up as projects Yes, by all means go back for the other pair and welcome to CSP.
  12. ar_pro

    AR Tweeter replica/replacement

    Looking forward to that AR-9 restoration, too! The little base on the AR-9 is held in place by 4 screws & a bit of glue. Hopefully, it doesn't exhibit any sign of moisture damage, as its very cheap painted mdf, and pretty much dissolves when wet. If I can suggest - this would be a great time to consider spiked feet. The Parts Express 240-730 are excellent. Aadams: it's tough to generalize on the sound of the verticals without taking room size & amplification into account. I've heard both the AR-9 and AR-90 sound mediocre in undersized rooms, where the AR-91 with a common sonic signature sounded just right. Also, compared to a straight-up AR-3a, I'm sure the 91 will play more loudly, and with less chance of thermal failure.
  13. DavidR

    Picked up some more AR speakers

    Hi Glenn ! The first set of tweeters were not well packaged and arrived with some damage. MidWest Speakers was excellent about replacing them and packaging them per my request. The second set sound VERY good. If there's a difference between them and the AR 200084 then I can't detect it. (there's another thread that deals more with this). The original AR 200011-1 went OL. I don't know if these can be repaired or not. It had low output in the HF when I bought them. I'm going to make the woofer swap/change per Fedeluigi and Aadams suggested. My first thought on the 9 with the soft bottom was to pull the lower xover board and coat the inside first with Z-poxy, then do the base. I think the bottom 'plate' with the hole detaches. The coat that and finally address the lifting veneer.
  14. fedeleluigi

    AR-12 crossover

    The 20 Ohm resistor in the schematic is a misprint. Actually It is 2.0 Ohm and not 20 Ohm. You can see it from the AR 12 crossover picture. That's why the 20 Ohm resistor is not listed. In other words in the crossover network there are two 2.0 Ohm resistors and no 20 Ohm resistor is present. Luigi
  15. DavidR

    AR Tweeter replica/replacement

    I'll be showing up at your door unannounced to assist (whip) you into finishing your 90's. I have one of the Sony speakers re-foamed. The 99 cent foams from China were actually very good. Seem to be polyether and are a great fit. I should maximize profit
  16. GD70

    AR-12 crossover

    Also lots of pics in my resto thread for reference if needed. Great sounding speakers. Glenn
  17. GD70

    Picked up some more AR speakers

    Quite a project David, and looking good. Did you sort out the tweeters yet? Unfortunate the replacements weren't up to snuff. Seemed promising. Glenn
  18. Stimpy

    AR Tweeter replica/replacement

    I'd offer to help, but I'm sure you want the 9's finished within this decade? 😁
  19. alkermes

    TEAC LS-350 speakers

    I hope you bought them! I wonder if they are any relation to Pioneer and Coral speakers of the era.
  20. boreas

    KLH 12 woofer vs KLH 5

    Hi, Kent. The woofer that's available to me isn't the one pictured in my post. That's from post #2 in this thread. The one I'm looking at is advertised as a Model Five woofer, the one pictured below. It appears I picked the wrong picture. The one on eBay has the thinner single magnet. Is this one compatible with the square magnet type.
  21. JKent

    KLH 12 woofer vs KLH 5

    Hey Boreas It's 10 years later and I know a bit more about the Five and Twelve (Sorry I can't help with your current question). The Five and Twelve did NOT use the same woofer. The round magnet woofer in your picture with a double-thick magnet is from a Model Twelve. The woofer shown below is from the Model Five. The only Twenty-Three I've been into had the square magnet like the one you are trying to replace. IMHO the double magnet Model Twelve type would NOT be a good choice but the Model Five type MAY work. Kent
  22. fedeleluigi

    AR-11 Crossover Frequency Response Simulation

    Thank you for the clarification, Pete
  23. CSP handle is Chris1this1 Adams  Thank you. I had contacted him regarding my 10Pi tweeter #2000011-1 and he does not do those. I was unaware that the AR5 used the 'egg shell' dome tweeter.
  24. What speaker did you compare against, many are voiced far too bright in my opinion.
  25. If you are talking about individual drivers I have no way of doing that. If you are referring to entire speaker systems that is how I discovered the need for more tweeter output. As for measurement I only have my ears which are slowly failing.
  26. It really helps to have a modern reference to compare a vintage design agaist before and after changes, or to measure them.
  27. I used “Holographic” because it is the only single word I could think of to describe the sound but that word implies a 3d effect and that is not accurate IMO. However, in my experience the effect you heard on your AR9s sounds similar except with the 3a, LST, or 5 the size of the listening area would be much larger and probably would not require any toe in of the speakers. Hearing the difference also depends on how the recording was engineered IMO. If it was created in a studio, you may not hear the difference. Anything recorded in complete live performance and engineered with the objective of recreating the live venue sound will easily convey the difference. This is not imaging or an enveloping sound field. It is more akin to sitting in an audience and changing the volume according to which seat row you prefer. I have AR9s to which I listen frequently, but the 9 does not present a recording in the same way a properly working Allison era classic can do above 500hz or so. Until now I have felt fortunate to have good working original tweeters in my 3as. I knew my 5 tweeters were ailing but was flabbergasted at the difference after the rebuild. Now I wonder what I am missing with the 3as. CSP handle is Chris1this1 Adams
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