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About RoyC

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    Latham, NY

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  1. Hi Roy,

    I understand that you have written extensively about the topic of sealing cloth surrounds. Unfortunately,  there is so much discussion and opinion on the forum threads that I feel I need some clarification.  

    1.Can I purchase the sealer from you?

    2.Also, after sealing the cloth surrounds, how much time before it needs a re-application?

    3.And lastly , does it always improve the sound quality of the speakers? I plan to re-seal KLH 23's, 6's, and 17's



  2. RoyC

    AR 2 garage find

    Hi jaz761, Kent mentioned this thread to me. Some thoughts: --I agree with dxho...AR-2's are often found to have oil-filled capacitors, which seldom require replacement. If your dual high range drivers are making sound, and are not cutting out when turning the level control/pots, the pots are most likely functioning properly...especially since you like the way the speakers sound, sans the woofer issue. -As you surmised, the only pressing item may be to deal with woofer repair. It is very likely the degraded glue issue is also present under the spider (suspension) mounting ring. If this is the case, the cone should be completely removed, shimmed, and both rings re-glued. It is much more difficult to repair the woofer if the surround ring is re-glued before a loose spider ring, so it is recommended to remove the woofer for inspection. -The primary reason to use foam replacement surrounds is to replace deteriorated foam surrounds. Your woofers' cloth surrounds are not the problem, the rings on which they are mounted are. Your woofers are arguably the best 10 inch woofers AR made. They are well worth a repair effort. I'll send you a personal message. Roy
  3. RoyC

    AR-4x Surprise

    Not really...Reducing the cap value to 10 or 12uf is worth trying, but there are different versions of these phenolic ring replacement tweeters available. I would go with the later AR tweeters and AR-7 woofers, as discussed above, before staying with those tweeters. It would have a better chance of success. Roy
  4. RoyC

    AR-4x Surprise

    First, apologies for any confusion regarding AR's #5 coil value. The official spec is indeed 1.187mh. I mistakenly used a measurement I had written on a #5 coil in my AR coil stash. These coils typically measure from 1.17mh to a bit over 1.2mh. The variations are insignificant. As mentioned above, AR coils are comprised of a rather unique 17 gauge wire, but the 18 gauge, 1.20mh coil in Kent's link above would certainly be close enough. (Wire gauge determines resistance of the coil, but the difference between 17 and 18 at 1.2mh is quite small.) swayzeee, The greater the number of turns, the higher the inductance, but the number of turns for a specific value varies with wire gauge (thickness). The 265 turn/17ga AR coil has never shown up on a chart, but it is probably around 1.5mh or 1.6mh. As Kent suggested above, you can unwind your original coils to the proper value using a meter. Alternatively, you could carefully unwind them 40 turns to make something close to the 225 1/2 turn #5 coil. None of the above matters if you are not using original 4x drivers. I do have original #5 coils and a single 4x woofer available. Send me a PM if interested. I suspect, however, finding decent original tweeters will be a greater challenge than anything else. Roy
  5. Hi, I'm setting up to refurbish a pair of KLH Model Fives and was perusing the threads.  It was mentioned that you sell the butyl sealant for the cones but the posts were quite old.  Do you still sell the sealant or should I just go with Aleene’s Tacky Glue as I have also seen mentioned?  Best regards - Carmine

  6. The few factory conversions I have seen had the adapter rings riveted in place below the basket. Roy
  7. Larry is vacationing in the Caribbean (St Thomas) for six weeks! Klaus, he has reproduction adapter rings for the 10 inch woofer in stock, and should be able to help you out when he returns. Roy
  8. RoyC

    AR-4x Surprise

    I agree, ra.ra... swayzeeee, the most common 4x crossover would consist of an AR#5/1.21mh coil (not the one shown in your photo), and the 20uf cap for (only) the original tweeters. While shopping for original woofers be careful to examine the condition of the cloth surrounds. Many have been ruined by being stiffened with various materials in heavy handed attempts to "seal" them, and periodically show up on Ebay. The 4x woofer surrounds should be very compliant. Roy
  9. RoyC

    AR-4x Surprise

    I agree with all of ra.ra's comments. The fact of the matter is you only have partial 4x crossovers, and no 4x drivers. Even if your woofers were original, the replacement tweeters would not sound like the original tweeters, especially when used with the 20uf capacitor. One possible project would be to continue to use the well regarded AR-7 woofers, and pair them with later AR tweeters used in the AR-6, 7 (and many later models). You could use them with a simple crossover consisting only of a 5uf or 6uf capacitor and L-pad, and end up with something very close to a number of nice 2-way models sold by AR from the mid 70's through the early 80's. The most difficult work would be to change the cabinet tweeter holes for the later tweeters. Roy
  10. RoyC

    AR5 - Project no.2

    The additional 6uf cap refers only to the 3a, not the 5. The original 3a cap is 6uf, and a 6uf cap in series with it results in 3uf. Placing a 6uf cap in series with the AR-5's 4uf cap will result in too little capacitance for the AR-5 tweeter. Just purchase the 4uf AR-5 tweeter cap, and forget about series caps! The vast majority of people I've been in contact with over the years prefer the original cap values when using the HiVi tweeter. A more experienced person can experiment with these things, but it is not something I recommend for your purposes. Roy
  11. RoyC

    AR5 - Project no.2

    crumpets, Given your satisfaction with the AR-18, and the fact that you are using level controls with the same electrical characteristics as the originals, I would stay with the original 4uf cap. It will still sound like an AR-5, and will retain the option to easily go back to the original tweeters if they become available. (Btw, the higher cap value allows a bit more tweeter output.) All the required parts are available from Parts Express. Roy
  12. RoyC

    Ailing AR5

    Good plan! The Dayton 75uf cap will work fine. You could also use the Dayton 25uf cap instead of (2) 12's if you wish. Keep us posted! Roy
  13. RoyC

    The more things change...the more

    "Is it a religion or a disease? An American psychiatrist calls it "Audiophilia" 🤓 Indeed! Thanks for the laugh, Jeff! Roy
  14. RoyC

    Ailing AR5

    I don't see any obvious issues with the wiring of your crossover. Although the caps should be replaced, it is unlikely the tweeter and mid caps would cause this issue at the same time. It is also unlikely both L-pad level controls or tweeter/mid drivers crapped out at the same time. My first guess would be a bad connection inside the large wire nut holding the yellow leads. The tweeter + and mid + circuits share the yellow wire connected to the "T" cabinet terminal, which is inside that wire nut. It is the shortest wire, and may not have been tightly secured when the other yellow leads were twisted together. Start by removing the wire nut and re-securing the yellow leads. If that doesn't resolve the issue, things will become more complicated rather quickly. Roy
  15. RoyC

    AR5 - Project no.2

    crumpets, When we were putting together the 3a guide, I lobbied for not mentioning the use of small series caps with the film caps to avoid debate and confusion. The 3a type level controls more than make up for any small differences in ESR. In fact, the typically compromised old tweeters are more likely to be somewhat negatively impacted by the additional resistance. If complete originality is the primary goal, I would simply use electrolytic caps (I have used them for some restorations and they work fine). On the other hand, the Daytons you are contemplating will work very well and last forever. Either way, don't worry about the small resistors. ...Which leads me to your observations regarding lack of detail, etc, in comparison with your AR-18's. After reading similar comments in your AR-6 thread I doubt replacing caps will change your impressions very much. I believe there is a very good chance you are hearing a combination of the difference between the more reticent high frequency voicing of the early models vs the more forward character of the 18's, along with the very real possibility the tweeters in your other models are compromised. This is especially true of the AR-5 tweeters. Of course, replacing the caps is a prudent step to take, but I suspect it will not bring about the dramatic improvement you are expecting. Regarding your other questions...Your AR-5 cabinets are walnut veneer, and the 2ax and 5 shared the same woofer. Roy