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About RoyC

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  1. It somewhat depends at what frequency the capacitance measurements were done. Did you have the 72uf and 4uf caps tested as well? Was ESR measured?
  2. The amount of fiberglass typically found in the AR-5 is 23 to 25 ounces, with very early iterations (with the non-AR-2ax woofer) having more. The amount of fiberglass placed in the AR-5 cabinet decreased with time, just as it did with all of the early AR models. Something unique to most original AR-5's I have seen is a small piece of fiberglass placed over the Kempac just behind the woofer. We performed many measurements with varying amounts and types of fiberglass when putting the 3a restoration guide together, and did not find significant differences in Fc or listening impressions with variations of a few ounces. Given the changes made by AR along the way, I wouldn't be concerned with the precise amount of fiberglass, just consistency between the cabinets. Roy
  3. The "skiver" is another name for the spider, the fabric suspension at the base of the cone. It is not the surround's mounting ring. Your woofers most likely need only the correct surrounds. Don't mess around with anything else. The Parts Express foam replacement is acceptable. Roy
  4. The unique woofer magnets (note the indentations), the woofer cone, and missing surround mounting ring place the woofers firmly in the 1970-1971 era. I don't know anything about Simply Speakers replacement. This woofer requires the same surround used on later iterations, though I seem to recall the outer edge barely making it to the basket with this version of the woofer. The ring on the cone is foam, and will be fine as is. Don't mess with it. Roy
  5. The serial numbers are consistent with the transition to the foam surround/ferrite magnet woofer. Roy
  6. If the tweeters and mids are connected to the front terminals with the level controls in place, you won't get an accurate reading regardless of the rear jumper's position. The best way to measure the resistance of the tweeter and mid is to first disconnect one of the front leads of each. (Btw, It is not a dumb question. 🤔) Regarding your HiVi post above...I usually drill small holes for 24 or 26ga wire at the side of each "H". See photo... Regarding your question about "break-in"...the short answer is "no". Experimenting with speaker placement and tweeter/mid level controls will result in much greater differences than anything else. Personal adjustment to the sound is often mistaken as speaker "break-in". Roy
  7. Agreed....These are good examples of the earliest version of the foam surround/ferrite magnet woofer, which had a foam ring on the cone like that of the cloth surround/alnico magnet woofer. These woofers also did not have a mounting ring on the frame for the surround. I've never seen a date later than early 1971 on any of these woofers. What are the serial numbers on the cabinet labels? Roy
  8. No...The issue only applies to AR-3a tweeters, AR-3 mids, and AR-3 tweeters. These drivers have foam suspensions and a rubber based coating over the exposed voice coil gap. AR-3a mids have modern style cloth roll suspensions, which are very different and very stable. They usually either work or they don't. The most common problem is a stress break of a voice coil lead where it goes through the dome. Roy
  9. The foam surrounds are also glued to the underside of the cone, which was never done with this woofer. It will probably be very difficult or impossible to remove whatever was applied to the cones, but I would still try to use them after replacing the foam surrounds, and cutting/removing the oversize dust caps close to the cone with an exacto knife. You can still use smaller dust caps if the cones are ok underneath. Roy
  10. You could if you follow the instructions I posted. Roy
  11. All you need to do is measure the resistance of the mids. If they are later AR-5 replacements they will work as well as the originals, and you can always replace the white wires with more original looking leads. If the mids turn out to be 3a mids, a 2 ohm resistor in series with each can make them act like AR-5 mids. If complete "originality" is important to you, don't bother with the HiVi tweeters. Put that money toward rebuilding the AR tweeters you have. Roy
  12. cbolen, The dead tweeter is an AR tweeter, and more likely to be original to the cabinet than the others. Some later AR drivers had logos (beginning in the mid 70's), and all earlier ones did not. The non-original front-wiring of rear terminal drivers in your cabinets is also a very good indication that those drivers are not original to the cabinets. As I mentioned above, you should check the resistance of the mids to make sure they are not the lower impedance , but otherwise identical AR-3a drivers...which are much more common than replacement AR-5 drivers. Roy
  13. cbolen, Speaking of impedance, you may want to take a resistance measurement of your mids, as they appear to be later replacements. It is not unusual to find the more common low impedance 3a mid used as a replacement in an AR-5. This is a more important consideration than your concern with the HiVi tweeter. The AR-5 mid should read around 5 ohms and the 3a mid will be around 3 ohms. Roy
  14. The culprit is probably badly corroded level controls. Next step is to disconnect the tweeters and apply a signal to them to see if they make sound. If they do, you will have to deal with the controls. Roy
  15. The AR-1 usually requires no maintenance at all. The capacitors are oil filled, which very seldom need to be replaced. If your specimen has never been tampered with, and both drivers are producing sound with no obvious distortion, I strongly recommend leaving them as is. There is no way to "evaluate" them without a likelihood of damage, as the grille and woofer are difficult to remove. Frankly, you will reduce your potential sales price by tampering with a fully functional, original AR-1. Roy
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