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About RoyC

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    Latham, NY

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  1. Hey Pete, I have a 1971 specimen with no screen you are welcome to. I don't remember if it is from an AR-5 or 3a. Roy
  2. Ar 3 Mid-range protective screen

    I would not re-attach it until you are sure they are working correctly. If they need to be refurbished, new glue will be difficult to remove. You may want to take the opportunity to check out the white material around the edge of the dome. If it is not soft and pasty, the mid will need some work for it to produce optimal output. This stuff often becomes hard and crusty, restricting the dome's movement. Goop brand glue (any version) works well for attaching the screen. It is what I use when I refurbish AR-3 mids. Roy

    When you get the speakers up and running you will be able to decide if the mids are functioning satisfactorily. If the mid issue is present it is usually pretty obvious, especially when you compare your completed 3's to your other speakers. The "Restoring The 3a" document in the CSP Library contains good general AR information regarding level controls and cap installation (page 16, for the caps). Roy

    Ken, I do most of the driver repairs for Larry/Vintage AR. Glad to hear the AR-11 woofers are working out satisfactorily. Depending on a number of typical issues, your AR-3 woofer will likely be a more difficult repair. Some additional thoughts regarding the repairs and recommendations discussed above: -Given the design of the AR-3 (variable level controls) and the typical variances in ancient drivers. I see no reason to return your poly caps. Early speakers will respond well to any type of capacitor. In fact, the earliest AR-3's had oil-filled type electrolytic capacitors (which seldom need to be replaced), and don't behave exactly like the later AR caps. Imo, this is the least of your concerns during your restoration adventure. -Only AR-3 mid and tweeter voice coil leads soldered to the front terminals on the cabinet are aluminum. When working on AR-3 mids and tweeters I change these leads to tinned copper using a dedicated solder and flux. Though Kester is the best for anything else, it will not work well for this purpose. -Your AR-3 mids may need attention. They often suffer from stiffened suspensions these days, resulting in less than optimal output. (Btw, this typical issue will greatly supersede any capacitor type concerns.) -The crossover wire inside the cabinet is tinned copper. If you are not crazy about soldering lots of connections in the cabinet, wire nuts will work just fine when you are using the original type tinned crossover wire. Like Craig, I'm not a fan of using the nuts on bare copper where oxidation and corrosion is more likely to become an issue over time. I have seldom seen a corrosion issue, however, with tinned ("marine") copper crossover wire...and you will never hear the difference. -Aetna-Pollak pots are mechanically well built, but they are often cursed with caked, green corrosion. There is often no way to gently clean the disk and wipers. They need to be disassembled, sanded and/or dremel-ed with a wire brush...and when you get through the corrosion you will often find pits under it, and/or tiny holes in the wiper tips. When this is the case, I toss them and find better originals, or, more likely, install L-pads. Due to the construction and placement of these pots, no exterior routine maintenance is possible to deal with corrosion, and the speakers have to be opened to service them. Be aware, however, that the coil of resistance wire in the pot will not be corroded and should be treated gently. Rough treatment can change its value and/or make it lose contact with the end terminals. Btw, I agree with not soaking the controls in anything. I have been repairing speakers for a long time, and AP pots found in early Cerwin Vega and Infinity speakers all suffer from the same type of corrosion issues. Later iterations of AP controls have different metal on the contact surfaces (nickel?), and usually exhibit an easy-to-remove tarnish. AP pots are fairly unique regarding the aggressive corrosion so often found in them. The first time I saw it was in an 11 year old pair of AR-2ax's in 1980! Roy
  5. I'm afraid it has happened?

    ctjetta, As of today, Larry may have one AR-5 mid with a broken faceplate. That seems to be it for the foreseeable future. Reply to the PM I sent you a couple of days ago if you would like to discuss other options. Roy
  6. I'm afraid it has happened?

    The HiVi replacement is not used in the AR-4 series. I agree, the Midwest tweeter is an attractive option. Based on some experimentation with the similar AR-12 tweeter, a coil of around .07mh would be a reasonable starting place. Roy
  7. I'm afraid it has happened?

    + $11.75 shipping (to NY).
  8. I'm afraid it has happened?

    The Midwest tweeter is as viable as the HiVi replacement tweeter/coil combo sold by Larry if it is used with a parallel coil. Unfortunately, it is only available at a shipped retail price of around $80 each through Midwest, so there is no profit to be made for Larry to re-sell it. With that said, it is very well constructed, fits the cabinet hole perfectly, and it is worthy of experimentation if cost is not an issue. I will be working in Larry's shop on Wednesday, and will take a look at his inventory. Last I looked he had very few AR-5 drivers. Roy
  9. Model Six Caps?

    Hi Fred, Still here. You can always send me a PM if you want to discuss something, or get my email address. Roy
  10. Calling Roy C...HiVi Q1R Tweeters

    Kent (JKent) told me he has been in contact with you, and the info he gave you is up to date. As this has been discussed many times, send me a PM if you would like to discuss this further. Roy
  11. AR's honesty and the 3a's excellence

    Pete, The inductor change was definitely linked to the later woofer. Roy
  12. Thanks for posting the schematic, Robert. I haven't looked at it in a long while. I agree with you guys. Even though the thought of a series connection suggests otherwise, the schematic clearly shows one tweeter won't take out another...and, in retrospect, I don't recall any other tweeters or mids in an LST cabinet being mute due to a bad one. Things do change in terms of impedance, crossover point, and tweeter balance when inserting a non-original tweeter into the mix. In lieu of having original replacement tweeters, all of the tweeters would have to be replaced with the same model to maintain optimal balance. Although the original tweeter's response is not shaped by a parallel coil, later type tweeters (ie AR-9,11, ABT, Midwest, HiVi, etc) would require a coil of an undetermined value across the whole array to retain something similar to the original high frequency response characteristics. It would be placed across the tweeters in the same manner as the #6/1.35mh parallel coil is across the mid array. Roy
  13. The LST essentially has two pairs of tweeters, with the tweeters of each pair connected in series. The pairs are connected in parallel. The resulting tweeter impedance is the same as a single AR-3a/LST tweeter. The LST crossover's tweeter cap value is the same as the 3a (6uf). Roy
  14. I agree, Steve. In fact I actually prefer the AR-3a over the AR-11 and 10pi, as I personally find them to be a bit harsh in the mid frequencies...not an acceptable trade-off for me. I would only add, however, that I have experimented a great deal with tweeters in the AR-3a. More powerful tweeters (crossed over at 5000Hz) may be somewhat helpful but also increase sibilance. In my experience they do little to improve the lower frequency issue under discussion. On the other hand, as you have suggested in the past, some treble controls can be beneficial if their influence reaches low enough into the mid frequencies. Unfortunately better controls found in higher quality preamps often affect only the highest frequencies, and are less beneficial. Discussing speaker nuances and characteristics is what we enjoy doing here, but in the end the popularity of the 3a spoke/speaks for itself. Roy
  15. That's a really good point, Chris. Dead tweeters in the cabinet would be a problem. Roy