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About RoyC

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    Latham, NY

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  1. Options in restoring AR-2ax

    That is the resistor (nichrome wire)...the heart of the pot. It can sometimes be deformed, but it doesn't usually cause sound issues. It is also not prone to the corrosion found in other areas of the pot. Roy
  2. Options in restoring AR-2ax

    Hi Robert! Of course I just posted not to bother with the riveted disk. ...but, based on the photo in your post, it appears it may be worth the effort if there is a very good disk to work with. Roy
  3. Options in restoring AR-2ax

    I agree 100% with everything Kent has advised. Crusty corrosion on pots' wiping surfaces always has pits under it. There is no rational argument relating to sound to retain them in pitted condition no matter how shiny you can make them. Toss them or sell them to someone who just has to have original AR shafts sticking out the back of the cabinet. Btw, referring to an earlier post in this thread, the pot's center disk cannot be rotated. It is solidly riveted in place and not worth the effort. Roy
  4. What model crossover is this?

    Thorne, I'm the one sending the PM (not Kent). I was referring to the pots on your AR-5 board. You may have better luck with those. Roy
  5. What model crossover is this?

    Thorne, I should have mentioned that a 4uf capacitor (top right side of the board in your photo) is also common to a 2ax crossover, but I would just use a new one. I don't see any green crusty corrosion on the terminal rivets of your pots, which is a good sign. Maybe they will be cleanable. I may have a use for your AR-5 boards after you remove the pots. PM sent.... Roy
  6. What model crossover is this?

    They are 2nd generation AR-5 crossovers, and will not work well with your 2ax's. The pots are the only components in common with the AR-2ax crossover. Roy
  7. Hi, New With New To Me AR-2ax Pair

    Use a fresh exacto blade and slice on a slight angle inside the glue line. Roy
  8. Hi, New With New To Me AR-2ax Pair

    I've been re-foaming drivers for a very long time, and presently do much of the re-foam work for "Vintage AR", and all of it for a local repair shop. Inexperienced re-foamers using test tones, batteries, and eyeballs to center old woofer cones have been good for business. There are some woofers (not AR) that have plugs under, or in lieu of dust caps. These are the only type for which I don't use shims. The shims are much better at compensating for a less than perfectly aligned, or worn suspension, and allow the height of the cone to be precisely manipulated during the gluing process. Of all the old woofers, the flat dust cap of the 2ax woofer is the easiest of all to retain. If you don't have one, acquire an exacto knife (and some .007 inch shims). Roy
  9. AR11B mid-range driver failure

    Hi guys, The only relatively repairable AR dome mids are the AR-3 mids (the first two versions), not the later AR-3a (AR-11, etc) type. I do many repairs for Vintage AR and the success rate for the later mid is near zero. Occasionally a lead is broken just under the metal screen, which can be repaired, but most often there is a non-repairable break at the dome. The dome's suspension, which cannot adequately be repaired or replaced, would have to be cut to reach the break. The OP's high resistance reading is typical when one of the dome's voice coil leads is about ready to fall off. See photo below... pilot, is your AR-11 mid the later version with the pink fiberglass pad and silver colored screen? If so, I have exactly one of them. Send me a PM if interested. Roy
  10. AR3a Midrange Help

    I may be able to help you out, Nate. Send me a PM. Roy
  11. AR3a Midrange Help

    Testing equipment is not usually needed. Simply apply a musical signal directly to the mid and listen for clarity. In fact, you can do this via the front terminal connections...after disconnecting the woofer jumper, and turning the tweeter control all the way down. Do the same with the cabinet containing the good mid, and compare. Roy
  12. AR3a Midrange Help

    Welcome to CSP, Nate. The magnet problem with your mid could result in the intermittent type of distortion you describe. Another possibility is a loose crossover or level control connection. It is not likely to be a capacitor. I would start by pulling the offending mid and thoroughly test it out of the cabinet. Roy
  13. AR's reason for being

    We should bear in mind that the OP is coming from a marketing point of view. Steve was a salesman, not a design engineer or the founder of a company. Referring to his first post, using an air core choke will not lower bass response compared to a solid core choke. If the air core choke's attributes (a bit lower distortion at high input levels), however, can be stated in an ad in such a way as to sell more speakers, that would typically be the primary motivation for the marketing department to recommend the air core choke. In reality the odds are very low the vast majority of end users would hear the difference. With that said, it is hard to imagine Teledyne having had the same perspective as AR founding fathers Kloss and Villchur, or, for that matter, design specialist Roy Allison. Roy
  14. AR 4ax Can they be rebuilt?

    ...which is what I now recommend as a starting point for all applications. (Kent, the 5uf cap tweak only applies to the AR-3a, not the 2ax. ). Most people seem satisfied with the HiVi tweeter when used with the original capacitor values, as Larry/"Vintage_AR" sells them by the boatload. Most of my HiVi tweaking activities were in response to conversations with some HiVi users, and occurred prior to the availability of the rebuilt tweeter option. As I've stated before, the HiVi tweeter/inductor combo is the least expensive way to get back into the original AR ballpark, but I currently believe the best bet in terms of originality is Chris' rebuilt tweeter. Roy
  15. Picked up some more AR speakers

    David, The caps are not Sprague, but I have never known them to damage an amp. The DCR of the AR 12 inch woofer is 2.6 ohms. Roy