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RoyC

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  1. RoyC

    Ohm specs hi-range Ar3a 1974-75?

    The tweeters should read around 3 ohms. Forum member Chris1this1 can rebuild them for you. Roy
  2. RoyC

    AR3a woofer recone kit

    Hi Klaus, I have managed to save the original cone a number of times, but the adhesive holding the old voice coil in place is very tough to deal with. If that area becomes too damaged as a result of separating the old voice coil from the cone, it is very difficult to center and install the new voice coil. Roy
  3. It is not likely to be the crossover network, and much more likely to be broken or burned voice coils. Remove the woofers and test them individually with some music or an ohmmeter. Roy
  4. RoyC

    My AR3a front wired tweeter

    Fran, The vast majority of mid and tweeter leads are as described in my last post. If there is a departure from the norm (tweeters' crossed/mids' not crossed) you will see the original position of the leads under the tape on the driver itself. Just go with the position of the leads as you find them. If you are using tweeters rebuilt by Chris, ask him to identify which side is + if he hasn't already done so. Bear in mind, only the earliest front-wired mids may have crossed leads, and there is no known reason to uncross them. Removing the grill is not recommended unless you have a solid reason to believe the mid has been tampered with. Based on the photo you posted above, there is no reason to be concerned with the installation of that mid. The + sign and lead are clearly where they should be. Roy
  5. RoyC

    My AR3a front wired tweeter

    To make it even more interesting, some (not many) early AR-3a and 5 mids' leads were also crossed under the tape. I have checked a few of these mids with the metal grill removed, and found the + side of the voice coil to be on the opposite side of their later brethren, necessitating the crossed leads. In the absence of verification, however, the general rule of thumb is the left voice coil lead of front-wired 3a/5 tweeters and mids are + when viewed from the front. This is true of the later back-wired versions of these drivers as well. Earlier drivers have a greater chance of variation. Polarity of AR woofers varied more than the tweeters or mids into the mid 70's, so it is prudent to check them as well Roy
  6. RoyC

    New Twist to AR-3a

    Agreed...I enjoy surfing the menus. :) Roy
  7. RoyC

    New Twist to AR-3a

    Your capacitors are fine, Dick. If you are looking for a project 10 years from now, buy a capacitor meter and measure them. Roy
  8. RoyC

    New Twist to AR-3a

    Hey Dick, Good to hear from you! I'm told you can also get TV's that are only a few inches thick! I really can't say anything...I'm still using a "flip" phone. Last year I set up a pair of AR-5's for a young couple who promptly attached one of these to an old receiver to stream their internet stations, audio books, videos, etc, via their smart phones. They also did not own a cd, but could play cd quality (or higher) music files through a digital media player. Of course they are probably still trying to figure out how to properly use that old turntable thingy they purchased. I've actually been using a dedicated internet tuner in an aux input for a number of years: https://gracedigital.com/shop/tuner I like it because it is self contained and works like my old tuner. Roy
  9. RoyC

    My AR3a front wired tweeter

    Yes, crossed under the tape is normal for the 3a and the 5, as shown in your photo. The center terminal represents the + side of the crossover, and is also where the mid + side is connected. It is where all those yellow wires inside the cabinet end up. Roy
  10. RoyC

    My AR3a front wired tweeter

    All AR-3a front-wired tweeter leads I have seen were originally crossed under the tape as shown in the guide, and the actual + side of the tweeter's voice coil is as shown in the AR-3a guide's illustration. As seen on Fran's tweeter, for a period of time, AR confusingly placed a + sticker on the side of the tweeter to which this lead was routed under the tape. I have, in fact, seen AR -3a tweeters with red + labels on both sides...and many more with no sticker at all. When these tweeters became back-wired in the mid 70's the + side remained on the left (when viewed from the front). Roy
  11. RoyC

    Upcoming AR3a project

    Sure, send me a PM...
  12. RoyC

    Upcoming AR3a project

    No problem, Fran...This stuff can be overwhelming if you are not doing it on a regular basis. If you need an inductor I'm sure I can help you out. Roy
  13. RoyC

    My AR3a front wired tweeter

    What Chris said... Make sure to replace the tape between the leads to prevent shorting. Roy
  14. RoyC

    Upcoming AR3a project

    Hi Fran, Just read back through this old thread. On Sept 18, 2012 I posted: "Btw, your 3a-04125 specimen would have originally been equipped with a cloth surround woofer. Unless someone switched it out along the way, that cabinet has the smaller #7 (1.88mh) inductor in the crossover. The #9 (2.85mh) inductor should be used with the foam surround woofer....and, yes, there is an audible difference. This is a bigger issue from a practical and historical perspective than the pot tabs." Roy
  15. RoyC

    Upcoming AR3a project

    Based on the cabinet serial number, and the original appearance of the installation, the woofer inductor is likely to be the #7/1.88mh version originally used with the cloth surround/alnico magnet woofer. If so, it is not appropriate for your foam surround/ferrite magnet woofer. You can add a 1.0mh inductor (after measuring the original to verify its value) in series with the original inductor, or replace it with a #9/2.85mh. You could try measuring the center hole, diameter, and height of the coil (not the plastic spool) to see if it matches your #9 coil in your other cabinet. It is best, however, to use a meter to measure the coil's value. Roy
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