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Stimpy

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  1. Well done! I'm personally happy to see that you used respected brands of capacitors, as well as using good, like capacitors for the series values. In my experience, that really helps the speakers to continue to sound as a single voice. Also, please update your thread, as the speakers break. Just curious if you'll hear improvements in sound? Thanks for sharing!
  2. Not fakes. Just not the original classic versions. Redesigns and reissues from a much later time period. So unfortunately, your AR's won't have quite the resale value of the more well known earlier models. Also, I agree with the other post, check eBay. But only look through Completed Sales. That'll show what prices auctions actually achieved when sold. Good luck.
  3. I've experimented a bit with different brands of capacitors. Both NPE and film. And while I find modern NPE's to make very good replacement caps, I still find their lesser resolution distracting. Therefore, I now always recap with film/poly. It doesn't have to be expensive boutique parts. Even Dayton or Erse will sound good, but SoniCap, or ClarityCaps, or Mundorf will sound better. Dayton caps sound pretty even and balanced. Sometimes a little sibilant, but good for the price. ClarityCaps were warm sounding, with a good soundstage. ESR similar to electrolytic, so driver balance shouldn't shift, with their use. Mundorf, to me, were the most open and transparent of the caps I've used. Very palpable. I like them best. Regardless, any new modern caps will most likely be an improvement, no matter which type are used. It just depends on how resolving you want the speakers to be, after the recap? Good luck.
  4. Did you find a nice improvement in sound, with the correct LMR driver? Care to share details about what differences were heard? Also, was the 210045 poly cone better in any area? Just curious. Thanks.
  5. Beautiful work on the refoam. Well done. Also, I just looked again at those 58 woofers. I didn't realize they were that horrible. It looks like someone glued a partial woofer on top of the AR woofer? What were they thinking? Brutal to see good woofers treated like that. I'm glad you had the back-up spares! And hopefully, you can pop out that UMR dome too?
  6. Yep those are 91 boards. And I didn't know that AR used T.I. caps. I believe those are Mylar. The Unicon caps were nice too. Both brands better than the black/red Callins capacitors in my AR90's. Are you planning on a recap, prior to the swap?
  7. Thanks! I occasionally know what I'm talking about. Just don't ask my wife for confirmation.
  8. There was a recent thread, about un-built LST cabinets, being found in a warehouse. But, this was in Italy, so not an easy proposition to get a pair here...!
  9. Make sure that you have the correct AR91 crossover boards. Those same "blanks" were used for both the AR91's and AR92's, which have different crossovers. The correct 91 board, has 5 capacitors, with the woofer cap being 100uF. The 92 board has 4 capacitors, with the woofer cap being an 80uF value. Some different inductors too. As to the rest, that looks like a fair amount of work. Lots to fix. The woofers look usable to me, but will need to be well cleaned. Some huge surrounds on them too, which don't look correct. So, I'm glad they're being properly restored. Those are great speakers, and worth saving. Good luck.
  10. Infinity RS4.5's or AR LST's? What a problem to have...! Congratulations.
  11. Hey ar_pro, The veneer completely matches. It's one solid piece, on the sides. I just need to finish the stripping process, to completely lift the black paint, and I think it'll look nice. As to the blanket, I'd like to remove it, mainly due to the fact that would make the refinish process much easier. Nothing in the way then. But, I'd have to repaint again, after. Though, I guess I could try and veneer the fronts too? I've been thinking about stands for a while. It's something I will definitely try, as the 90's look a bit squat, since to me they have a Napoleon Complex, compared to the 9's. Oh, my listening room is 14x16'. Maybe not large enough? Another reason I guess I should leave the blanket? Though, Tom's comments are very interesting... Stimpy
  12. Nothing too drastic yet, as the acoustic blanket is still in place. The only thing I've done to the cabinets, is to strip the polyurethane, that my brother applied (for whatever reason), along with the black paint. So, while I'll keep the stock design, for the front, I will not be repainting the black woofer trim on the sides. There's walnut veneer under that paint, and I do want to leave it exposed. With the side grills in place, the look will still appear stock, and no harm done. One other variation I'm considering, is to make a short set of stands for my 90's. Something 6-sided, completely enclosed, and maybe filled, that the 90's can set on. The stands will bring the height of the 90's to the 9's. Or at least, match the height of the tweeters between the 2 models. Just for looks. Though, in my listening room, the extra height should improve treble response.
  13. I've been doing exactly that, to my 90s. Or at least, trying to restore them. I recapped the crossovers, with Mundorf poly's and added new Mills resistors. I've replaced all driver surrounds, and added Dynamat to the baskets. I also added a couple of extra cross braces internally. The LMR tube enclosure has been reglued. I'm now working on the cabinets, stripping them down. Though, I'm not sure if I want to refinish them back to stock, or create a pair of Naked 90s? The only question is how to refinish the front, as the 90s aren't veneered on front. It's plywood. (Thanks ar_pro)
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