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nfmisso

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About nfmisso

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  • Birthday 08/29/1960

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    nfmisso

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    San Jose CA
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    AR speakers, bicycling, photography, Jeep, HO trains, N&W

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  1. thank you. please don't hold your breath, I have been contemplating this center channel speaker for more than a decade. I just need to find time, and the confidence to do the job.
  2. Thank you. No sub - a sub that matches the low frequency performance of a pair of AR9 speakers are horribly expensive. The XLS1502 is rated at 525W into 4 Ohms, both channels driven and 775W into 2 Ohms. It provides plenty of clean power. More than enough to shake the neighbors house. I want the center to have the dome mid and dome tweet, like the AR9 family of speakers.
  3. @larrybody wow! very detailed, thank you. Also, thank you to everyone else who responded. I will probably do nothing with it for a long while. If someone would like it, I'll give it away, but you have to come and get it in San Jose, CA. My plan is to build a center channel speaker, with one or two 8" AR woofers (I have a pair of round magnet AR 8" woofers that someone re-foamed and appear to function properly), an AR91 dome mid-range (have one), a MW dome tweeter (need to purchase) and an AR91 crossover network (have one); in a new custom cabinet. My system is has seven channels: Onkyo TX-RZ810 receiver, AR9 fronts driven by a Crown XLS 1502 power amp (just right), AR91 rear speakers and AR91.5 side speakers. Currently I have a NHT center channel.
  4. I purchased this driver decades ago, and finally got around to looking at it today. The cone appears to be pushed in, with no travel before hitting bottom. IT can be pulled out, but almost snaps back to the position in the pictures. If feels like the voice coil is rubbing. Before I refoam it, I want to make sure the mechanism is working properly. Is this repairable? Nigel
  5. Yes; a person with the skills would find it relatively easy.
  6. Something like this is the least expensive way to go between the woofers and the satellites: https://www.parts-express.com/subwoofer-crossover-8-ohm-150-hz-200w--260-220 some of the component values may need adjusting for your specific drivers, and you may need an L pad on the woofer or satellite side. Note that it can be split in two. EDIT (add): to calculate crossover values see: https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/SpeakerCrossover/ and another: http://www.apicsllc.com/apics/Misc/filter2.html
  7. Hi Jerry; I have a couple of NHT Super Zero 2.1 speakers - they are great little speakers. I originally purchased them with the intent to do something like you described, using AR91 speakers for the bottom end with an external Parts Express 2 way passive crossover. One of my 91s was in need of a midrange driver; which I was able to pickup and install before the project got going. Simply Speakers has replacement AR 12" drivers (and dome mids and dome tweeters); AR 9, 90, 91/92(AR58S?) crossover drawings are on this site - just have build them. For less than $1500- in materials, with some wood working and soldering skills, it is possible to build brand new replicas of a pair of AR91 or AR58S speakers; a pair of AR9 speakers for less than $1000- additional in materials. Labor in the USA (if you paid someone to do the work); would be much more than the materials.
  8. I am planning a similar unit, using an 91/92 crossover, which I have. I also have the UMR and a couple of 8" AR woofers. I am debating about the tweeter. These are the three I am thinking about: https://www.parts-express.com/hivi-q1r-1-1-8-textile-dome-tweeter--297-417?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla#lblReviews https://www.ebay.com/itm/AR-Acoustic-Research-Replacement-Tweeter-for-AR9-AR11-AR58s-Speaker-MT-4121-4/152720220413?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3D93a23f89998f4c9bb085e0174b82c2b4%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D7%26sd%3D152720220413%26itm%3D152720220413&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042 https://www.simplyspeakers.com/acoustic-research-replacement-tweeter-12000840.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwnLjVBRAdEiwAKSGPI6HjJT-EQcJOj4-pWsN04I3yoL6HQz9UJFub8xKq8ZbZrRfE1_kLRhoCcqsQAvD_BwE and of coarse I am keeping watch for a good deal on 91, 91.5, 92 and 58S speakers.
  9. When I had AR9 speakers set up a decade or so ago, I used the amplifier sections of two Onkyo TX8500 recievers (dual independent power supplies) in vertical bi-amp mode. They worked great. Unfortunately, I had to sell that pair of speakers. I am finally getting around to rebuilding my 2nd set of AR9s; the upper section is ready, a professionally is refoaming the woofers, hopefully I'll get them back on Saturday. I am concerned that the TX8500's may need some refurbishing, I got estimates in the $500-$600 each range from a couple of places here in the Bay Area. I am not ready to pull the trigger on that, and am considering purchasing a digital oscilloscope instead, and doing it myself. Of course, I don't have the time..... So I purchase a Crown XLS1502 amp for now.
  10. Just to add my $0.02 - which maybe worth less than two cents. I see the AR 12" 3 way lineage as: AR3 -> AR3a -> AR10pi/AR11 -> AR58s "bookshelf speakers" and the AR91 (and AR91.5) branching of to floor standing vertical speakers -> AR78LS/LSi which is the end of the line. The AR58B due to it's cost reduction does not fit into the lineage, and the TSW stuff are totally different. The later AR303 is a nice resurrection. My current collection (operating): pair of AR91 & a pair of AR91.5; (need work) pair of AR9 and AR93. Nigel
  11. A few years ago, I purchased a pair of AR91 speakers, one of which had a non-functioning, though cosmetically good midrange. Today, I finally got around to replacing that driver. The pair now work great. The non-functioning midrange is open circuit (vs ~4ohms for a good one). Question, does a cosmetically good, but open circuit midrange have any value to anyone on this forum? I'd be happy to send it for the cost of shipping (US Mail), from San Jose, CA. If someone does want, what would you do with it? Nigel
  12. Hi Bruce; Be careful with the L1000 amp, from what little I could find it is only rated to drive 8 ohm loads. If it gets unhappy, it could send out some high frequency distortion that will fry your mid/tweeter. Tthe AR9ls is rated to have 3.2 ohm min impedance, and it is NOT an amplifier friendly load. I also think that you want much more power. Nigel
  13. The AR58S is a book shelf version of the AR91 with similar amplifier desires. Adcom 545 or 545/II works well for smaller rooms. In older equipment, I am huge fan of the Onkyo TX8500 receiver. The TX6500Mk2 and TX8500Mk2 will also work well. I would not go below 100W ("BIG WATTS") per channel.
  14. For a given relatively low listening level, one thing that some people notice between different amplifiers is the dampening they provide to bass response of the speaker that is not in the music signal. Higher powered amplifiers usually have lower output impedance (higher damping factors), and thus the bemf generated by the moving speaker decays faster - the circuit is closer to a short. To me; amplifiers with lower output impedance sound noticeably better, especially at low listening levels that amplifiers with higher output impedance. Putting it a different way, the lower the output impedance of the amplifier, the more closely the audio output of the speaker will follow the electrical input provided by the amplifier to the speaker. This is more noticeable to me at lower sound levels, and in the bass frequencies.
  15. What you are doing will have no effect on the magnets. Some magnet materials will corrode; keeping them dry will slow this; vacuum sealed in plastic bags with desiccant inside will help. Ferrite magnets are extremely stable, and basically don't care.
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