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mrbruce4

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About mrbruce4

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  1. Just a short post to acknowledge my appreciation for Roy C.'s invaluable assistance with a resurrected pair of AR3s. Roy accurately diagnosed a mismatch in the midranges and was able to get me set up with the correct replacement. He also was able to do an expert repair of a woofer. Without this major assistance, they would still be sitting, gathering dust. Instead, they are singing! Anyone who has dealt with Roy already knows the above, so I'm posting this as another data point for those not familiar with him. Thanks again, Roy.
  2. RoyC and Ra.Ra - I greatly appreciate your institutional knowledge, insights and things for me to consider. I will go back through threads and start looking for an approach that replaces the other midrange (based on Roy's expectation of the older midrange eventually requiring replacement. Surprisingly, "AR Inc." badges, 1" square, were screwed into the rear of each cabinet. No "3" badges were there though.
  3. Genek - Attaching a photoof grill cloth. Stupidhead - Thanks for the comment on caps. Believe I will just buy an NPE locally for the "extra" cap requirement. JKent - Thanks for the email. I'll be monitoring responses closely.
  4. Forgot to answer about the grills. When they are in place the grills are as close to flush with the cabinet face, as a visual look would find. Original grill fabric is in near perfect condition. I don't see any snags, etc. Personally don't like the look of the stuff. Prefer the linen look, but recognize the original appeals to some. If I keep these, I may make new grill frames, save the originals, and put cloth on the new frames.
  5. Ra.Ra - Really appreciate your thoughts. Certainly possible a midrange had to be replaced, but both cabinets looked truly undisturbed. If someone did have to have a midrange replaced (possibly even by the factory?), they did a very good job of matching the putty and paint on the baffle. After I bought them, I called the previous owner to ask how long he had owned them and whether he had done anything to them. They were such a giveaway price ($80) that he would have no reason to shade the truth. He said he got them in mid 70s, while in Indiana, and brought them to AZ in early 80s. He said he had not done anything to them other than listen since he owned them. When I first saw them, they were in his workshop garage and he said that is where he always listened to them! Selling them because they were retiring and selling the house and travel in their RV. Our low humidity may have helped minimize pot corrosion. I have already removed and cleaned the pots in the #2 speaker. Both looked quite clean with very little corrosion. (Much less than what I have found in 4x and 2ax sets that I have come across in Tucson.) Since I ordered caps from PE before I knew about the additional 6 mfd cap, I'm thinking about just buying a NPE cap locally, rather than pay PE more for shipping than for a single cap. Thoughts from anyone would be appreciated, as it relates to difference in sound of an NPE vs. a Solens. (Please note that I toss around terms pretty easily but am not much of a tech.) What I know was learned from years of reading CSP and AK! Thanks in advance.
  6. Recently had an opportunity to buy a pair of AR3s from their second owner. This owner has had them since the 70s and simply wanted to get rid of them, and also threw in 6 inch tall AR stands. Serial nos. are C43341 (speaker #1) and C43394 (speaker #2). Woofers and tweeters appear identical but the midranges are different, as are the crossovers. Drivers produce sound with leads connected to the fronts of mids and tweeters. Woofers are also responsive. Cabinets and grills are in excellent condition, with the exception of a dark spot on the top of one. I've looked through the Restoration guide which is full of great info. Both tweeters seem to be the AR3 version but midranges seem to be style A.13 (speaker #1) and A.11 (speaker #2) Crossover for speaker #1 has the additional 6 mfd capacitor (apparently for the AR3a), while speaker #2 has the AR3 crossover. Neither speaker has any indication that it was ever opened before I removed the woofers. I had ordered 24 and 6 mfd polypropolene capacitors (1 each for each speaker) before I opened speaker #1 (with the apparent 3a crossover), tonight. It now appears I will need to get one more 6 mfd but welcome advice. I ordered the capacitors based on the close serial numbers and the crossover schematics for the serial numbers (i.e. both well below 70228). I expected, and hoped, for the refurbishment to be easier than this. I have put in new caps for AR4x and AR2ax in the past, but have not owned AR3s previously. The guidance I would like is regarding whether I need to do anything beyond the new capacitors, and cleaning the pots, for these 2 to sound similar. I would like these to sound the same and am less concerned about them being identical. Thanks Bruce Tucson, AZ i
  7. I'm the happy new owner of a pair of A200s. S/N 11791 & 11794. I pulled the fuses and installed the correct values and think the speakers sound great. Previous speakers were stacked New Large Advents, driven by an Adcom 555. My only question is whether it could make a significant difference to replace the capacitors. I own KLH 5s, AR4xs and the Advents. I have replaced capacitors in all of them and heard improvement in the KLHs and ARs, but didn't notice any real change in the Advents. Since the Bostons are a little newer, I'm wondering what other owners' experience has been with capacitors. Thanks in advance Bruce
  8. I've had good luck with using Oxyclean and slightly warm water in a bathtub. Using a medium bristle nylon brush, I've only allowed the cloth, while still on the frame, to stay less than one minute while I brush the cloth. A quick cool water rinse and then outside in the sun. Shake and use a hair dryer to get the majority of the water off and then let them lie flat on a raised open air support. Turn them after a little while and they turned out fine. I live in the desert so we had high temps and low humidity which means the grill is dry to the touch in about 20-30 minutes. I've done about 5 sets like this and it works here. As others have correctly pointed out, you do not want to let the frames soak up a lot of water. I think this works because I limit the time in the water, get the excess water off in a hurry and get them air dry quickly. I imagine this wouldn't work well in a humid climate or in low temps.
  9. Jack - If you can't return them and decide to not turn them into a huge project, I'd be very interested in the badges, if they are "2ax" and in decent condition. I'm rehabbing a pair of 2ax right now and am just missing badges. I need to acknowledge the valuable help that RoyC provided to me for my project. Thanks Bruce
  10. Hi Roy - Truly appreciate the background on the woofers AND the tweeters. I didn't know the 2ax used the same tweeter as the AR3. I've been looking for tweeters so this will help. Guess I will now also start looking for a woofer. I did take the one pot apart for the tweeter and cleaned the green corrosion but I'll keep after them before declaring the tweeters lost. The mid range pots did work acceptably well without cleaning but I still plan to clean those up as well. Thanks again.
  11. I've been given a pair of 2ax speakers and it looks like they will become a project. Person said he was the original owner and bought them in '72. He told me when I was loading them up that one woofer was "repaired". The one still in the cabinet (S/N AX100085) has a cloth surround and would appear to be the original since the seal seems to be the black putty I've seen in my pair of 4x. The woofer removed from the cabinet (S/N 100143) has a masonite trim ring and the foam surround is gone. Numbers on the magnet are 561 7731 The puzzling things to me are I've understood from what I've read here that the AR2a used the woofer with the SN 100085. Also, is the woofer I removed from the cabinet worth keeping, after a new surround, and using in this pair? Separately, it looks like I will need a pair of tweeters. I've cleaned up one pot (disassembled the pot and cleaned with D5 first and then Faderlube), but the tweeters both measure open off the tiny wires coming out of the domes. I get 1.8 ohms on the push button terminals for each of the tweeters. I'm familiar with the pot corrosion problems but since I'm measuring the tweeters as open, I'm not having any hope for them. Advice on the woofers and suggestions for the replacement tweeters would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Bruce
  12. Well, to wrap up my part of this story- I spent time today listening for a leak in one of the speakers. I couldn't hear a leak anywhere. Also spent some time listening to music. A recommended test for bass is Bela Fleck's Amazing Grace. This sounded fine with deep bass, so I'm calling myself happy with the speakers. As several knowledgeable members have suggested, I'm not going to worry this one any more. Thanks again for the advice!
  13. I appreciate the thoughtful responses from members that I have trusted for a good while. While I only know you by the member names, I follow and respect your opinions. Many thanks. I will be back in a couple of days after I've done a little more checking. Bruce
  14. Thanks again Zilch. Good to know exactly what to listen for. I'm sure I didn't hear that during my first pass, but I'll do another check. I bought only the surrounds, and not the "kit" from Looneytune since I had glue and didn't need instructions. For centering I use a C cell battery for about 20 minutes, to pull the surround down and keep it centered. As others have advised, I'm not going to lose sleep over this return time thing; it's simply that I've gotten used to using it as a good check - with Advents, KLH 5, AR4x & KLH 17s. (Only the Advents were refoamed but I recapped all the speakers so I needed to be sure I resealed the cabinet.) Bruce
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