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Doug G.

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About Doug G.

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    I have gotten surrounds from Rick Cobb for quite a while now. Google his name and you will find his contact information. Doug

    As in the other thread, as long as you use drivers appropriate for the cabinet size, you'll be OK. Acoustic suspension speakers are not that critical that the cabinet be exactly the same, volume wise. The drivers for the earlier Advent/1 will work for you. Doug

    Since the 4002 replaced the Advent/1, which used the same drivers as the New Advent, you could use your woofers and get New Advent tweeters along with their crossovers. The New Advent tweeters are still fried eggs but are mounted flush with the cabinets and have the metal screens cut away on the sides. You would then basically have a pair of Advent/1s. Doug

    Assuming you mean the 5002-size cabinet, it is close enough for it to work as long as you use the original crossover, as you indicated. Doug

    Hehe. Pete gets a little wordy, at times. Doug
  6. Yup. congrats. Advents are well worth it. I had 10 woofers to do and I just thought I had to streamline the process a bit. Doug
  7. Advent fried egg tweeter - cage pushed in

    I haven't tried wetting the tweeter cones but I don't think water will soak in because the paper is "painted" with light bulb die and is probably not porous. It wouldn't hurt anything to try it, though. As I wrote on AK, I have pulled out dents in them by pricking with a needle and pulling out at the same time, carefully! Then use an acetate type cement to cover the holes. I don't understand how people can be so careless with those tweeters. Advent battled people ruining them from the beginning with finally installing the grilles right on the tweeter and people STILL ruined them. Jeez. Doug
  8. Has anybody else ever encountered Masonite woofers with a kind of translucent red glue holding the ring on? A pair I bought back in 2006, or so, had it. The red glue was letting go so, when I refoamed those, I removed the rings and attached the surrounds to the rings first and then to the cone which is probably the way Advent did it when assembling the Masonites. Another thing different from the typical Masonite woofer is that the leads, where they go through the cone, are much closer to the VC. So much so that when I replaced the damaged dust caps with ones a little bigger, the dust caps completely covered the leads so you can't see them from the front. They are otherwise the same with the same frame, magnet, and cone. Doug
  9. Jeez, I forgot to say these procedures are for the original Advent Loudspeaker woofers and New Advent Loudspeaker woofers. I also should have said it's the easiest method yet for me. Doug
  10. All-Metal Woofers: I have reversed this procedure from the typical refoam method. 1) With the woofer sitting on the magnet, lay a bead of glue around the little ledge at the outside. That's right, I attach the surround on these outside flange first. With the roll poking out at you, lay the outside surround flange into the little ledge and press it into the glue a few times. Let it set well. 2) The inner surround flange will now be laying on top of the cone edge. Lay a bead of glue on the inner surround flange while it is above the cone edge. Now, push the cone up. The surround flange will typically not snap under the cone edge. Work it under there with your fingers. Done carefully, you won't get any glue smeared around. Pinch together several times to be sure the flange is well glued. 3) Similar to the woofer cone falling against the Masonite and centering itself, when the cone is within the surround inner flange, it will be centered and parallel and there will be no rubbing. Of course, you want to check to be sure but I have never had a failure here. That's it. Let it all dry and you're done. I have recently refoamed several of my Advents and boy do they sound wonderful! Low pipe organ notes shake the room which I, of course, love. Doug
  11. I have followed the same methods for replacing surrounds for quite a few years now and they pretty much were the same as the Simply Speakers demo video (and actually aren't too different now) but I have made changes which simplify and speed up the process. Masonite Woofers: 1) I have worked away from using solvents to remove the old foam and adhesive and now use heat from a hairdryer and scraping with an X-Acto knife on the cone and a screwdriver of about 3/16" wide on the Masonite ring. Some of the water-based adhesives would not soften with the reapplication of water but soften with heat. Also, I have had surrounds fail prematurely (less than ten years) and I noticed the failure was always where the surround met the attachment edges and the foam seemed to have softened and became mushy before cracking, a sign the material was attacked by solvent remnants (I realize I should have been more careful in making sure the solvents were completely gone but fumes can linger). 2) With the woofer sitting on the magnet, lay a bead of glue around the cone edge. I have learned to lay the bead right out of the bottle so I don't have to go through the extra step of smearing it around with a brush or finger. Faster and no mess. 3) Lay the surround over the opening with the outer flange over the Masonite edge and the roll poking away from you. Now, work the surround flange under the Masonite so the inner surround flange lays right on the glue bead. This way, you don't have to raise the cone up to meet the surround flange. Work around the joint several times pinching the cone edge and surround flange together. Let the glue set well. 4) Bring the outer surround flange back above the Masonite and apply a glue bead around the outside surround flange while it is above the Masonite. Push the cone down and the surround flange will snap below the Masonite. Turn the woofer magnet side up and the cone will fall against the underside of the Masonite, finding its own center (it is already centered at the spider). Work around the flange/Masonite joint several times with the blunt end of the screwdriver, pressing down the surround flange. After a few minutes, you can turn the woofer back over to press on the cone around the edges to ensure no VC rubbing. Turn it back to magnet side up and go around one final time, pressing the flange into the glue bead. Let it all dry and you're done. I have never had a VC rub using this method. Like I said, the cone/VC is already centered at the spider and the cone falls into the right position so parallelism is preserved. All-metal woofers next. It is even easier. Doug ..
  12. Smaller Advent woofer

    Thanks for the additional conversation, you guys. I'm glad Carl agreed too. Doug
  13. Smaller Advent woofer

    Sorry, I got a little opinionated there and I don't mean to offend anybody. Doug
  14. Smaller Advent woofer

    Oh, and as far as capacitors, there is just as much BS in the audio world about them as there is about almost any other subject. Not that I am against using quality components but I really doubt 99.99999% of listeners can tell the difference between regular non-polar electrolytics being in there or "audiophile quality" caps. A lot of people like to sound authoritative. Doug .
  15. Smaller Advent woofer

    Gosh, I'm sorry I didn't reply to this yet. Anyway, I am confused about Rick's instructions too because, on the Smaller Advent woofer, the surround outer flange is placed in the kind of cutout ledge on the upper surface of the fiber board (or I think some may have just been on top of the fiber ring). It sounds like he's talking about the original Advent woofer with the Masonite ring where the outer flange IS under the ring. Also, the only Advent speaker with the woofer surrounds mounted inverted (concave roll) were the original Masonite woofers. All the rest were convex. It really doesn't make any difference sound-wise but on the original woofers, it would be possible for the surround to rub on the Masonite ring inner edge if the surround were mounted convex. On the Smaller Advent woofer, I can't see any detriment with mounting the surround concave as long as there are no structures underneath for it to hit. It's just that Advent mounted them convex. If I were to refoam a Smaller Advent again, I would use the method I use on the all-metal woofer used on the New Advent full-sized speaker. It's a lot easier on any woofer where you have to attach the surround inner flange to the back of the cone. I attach the outer flange to the frame first which would be in that kind of ledge on the Smaller Advent woofer. The all-metal woofer has a similar ledge for the outer flange. Once that is set up/dry and with the inner flange above the cone edge, run a bead of glue on the upper surface of the inner flange. Then push the cone all the way up and work the inner flange under the cone edge. Done correctly, you won't get glue all over the roll. Then work around the joint two or three times pressing the edges together and, at the same time, pushing on the cone to make sure there's no rubbing of the VC. There's always a big debate on how to center the cone while refoaming a woofer but the cone is already centered at the spider and the cone will pretty much find its own center during the procedure. I have never had a failure just replacing and checking by pushing around the outside edges of the cone to make sure there's no VC rubbing. Just let the cone find its own place to sit and don't force it in any direction. The only time you actually have to center the whole cone/VC assembly with shims at the VC is when you recone a driver as opposed to just replacing the surround. I hope this helps and apologize for this being so late. Family issues have not allowed me to participate in the several forums I am in lately. Doug . . .