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Doug G.

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About Doug G.

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    Rochester, MN

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  1. Questions on OLA (stacking and fried tweeter change)

    The markings on the tweeters are factory. I have seen crossed out ones too and, as a matter of fact, I believe at least one of mine is like that. Anyway, the "X" marks the positive terminal although doing your method of checking would be interesting. I believe the inconsistency of which terminal is positive is probably from the windings being so small and the assembler probably running the wrong end of the winding to a given terminal. Go by the mark or, if your testing contradicts the mark, by that. The gray glue tweeter is a fairly early one. The brown glue was later and went to the end of production of the original Advent in 1977 or 1978. I don't have my stacks as per convention on forums. I run both speakers right-side-up. I thought there seemed to be more interference between the two tweeters when they were close together. With them farther apart, there seems to be more "air" or spaciousness. I know some will say that's actually a symptom of comb effects but I think it sounds better. Doug
  2. Advent/1 vs New Large Advents

    The New Advents and Advent/1's DO use identical drivers. Different crossovers. The basic difference between the two models is that the New Advents will have about another octave lower output than the Advent/1's. In other words, more bass. Doug
  3. What's the impedance on the Advent/1?

    I believe the only Advent to NOT be a nominal 8 ohm load is the Smaller Advent at 4 ohms. Doug
  4. Advent refoam (again)

    Thumbs up icon here. Doug
  5. Advent refoam (again)

    If you are able to do it, do it the way Advent did it. Surround flange on the bottom of the cone. It's not that difficult. It would bug the hel* out of me if I did it wrong. Some people, even so-called experts/professionals, are just lazy. Doug

    I have gotten surrounds from Rick Cobb for quite a while now. Google his name and you will find his contact information. Doug

    As in the other thread, as long as you use drivers appropriate for the cabinet size, you'll be OK. Acoustic suspension speakers are not that critical that the cabinet be exactly the same, volume wise. The drivers for the earlier Advent/1 will work for you. Doug

    Since the 4002 replaced the Advent/1, which used the same drivers as the New Advent, you could use your woofers and get New Advent tweeters along with their crossovers. The New Advent tweeters are still fried eggs but are mounted flush with the cabinets and have the metal screens cut away on the sides. You would then basically have a pair of Advent/1s. Doug

    Assuming you mean the 5002-size cabinet, it is close enough for it to work as long as you use the original crossover, as you indicated. Doug

    Hehe. Pete gets a little wordy, at times. Doug
  11. Yup. congrats. Advents are well worth it. I had 10 woofers to do and I just thought I had to streamline the process a bit. Doug
  12. Advent fried egg tweeter - cage pushed in

    I haven't tried wetting the tweeter cones but I don't think water will soak in because the paper is "painted" with light bulb die and is probably not porous. It wouldn't hurt anything to try it, though. As I wrote on AK, I have pulled out dents in them by pricking with a needle and pulling out at the same time, carefully! Then use an acetate type cement to cover the holes. I don't understand how people can be so careless with those tweeters. Advent battled people ruining them from the beginning with finally installing the grilles right on the tweeter and people STILL ruined them. Jeez. Doug
  13. Has anybody else ever encountered Masonite woofers with a kind of translucent red glue holding the ring on? A pair I bought back in 2006, or so, had it. The red glue was letting go so, when I refoamed those, I removed the rings and attached the surrounds to the rings first and then to the cone which is probably the way Advent did it when assembling the Masonites. Another thing different from the typical Masonite woofer is that the leads, where they go through the cone, are much closer to the VC. So much so that when I replaced the damaged dust caps with ones a little bigger, the dust caps completely covered the leads so you can't see them from the front. They are otherwise the same with the same frame, magnet, and cone. Doug
  14. Jeez, I forgot to say these procedures are for the original Advent Loudspeaker woofers and New Advent Loudspeaker woofers. I also should have said it's the easiest method yet for me. Doug
  15. All-Metal Woofers: I have reversed this procedure from the typical refoam method. 1) With the woofer sitting on the magnet, lay a bead of glue around the little ledge at the outside. That's right, I attach the surround on these outside flange first. With the roll poking out at you, lay the outside surround flange into the little ledge and press it into the glue a few times. Let it set well. 2) The inner surround flange will now be laying on top of the cone edge. Lay a bead of glue on the inner surround flange while it is above the cone edge. Now, push the cone up. The surround flange will typically not snap under the cone edge. Work it under there with your fingers. Done carefully, you won't get any glue smeared around. Pinch together several times to be sure the flange is well glued. 3) Similar to the woofer cone falling against the Masonite and centering itself, when the cone is within the surround inner flange, it will be centered and parallel and there will be no rubbing. Of course, you want to check to be sure but I have never had a failure here. That's it. Let it all dry and you're done. I have recently refoamed several of my Advents and boy do they sound wonderful! Low pipe organ notes shake the room which I, of course, love. Doug