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About JKent

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday July 14

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    Appalachian Mountains of NJ
  • Interests
    KLH Model Eight radios, classic American Hi-Fi, jazz, classic rock, C5 'vette

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  1. OK. Here's before & after. I was disappointed the new grille cloth wasn't as dark as the original (long boring story) but thy look and sound pretty good. Grilles were originally glued on, now they have Velcro.
  2. You can find free tests online. You need to use headphones.
  3. The original caps are non-polarized electrolytics. If you use new NPEs that will be the lowest cost option, is true to the original design and should last 20-30 years. Film caps last virtually forever. Mylar is the lowest cost and also has ESR closer to the original NPEs. For each speaker you will need one 3uF three 4uF one 16uF one 25uF Small value film caps are pretty cheap so you could use a combination: Film for the 3, 4 and maybe the 16 (the 16 is for the mids) and NPE for the 25 and maybe the 16.
  4. It's not that bad. The xo is very simple and some of the work can be done outside the box. Cut the leads off the wax capacitor but leave it in place.
  5. True. GKent started this thread in 2006. Good advice from Aadams. Kent
  6. Some pots can be rebuilt and some are too far gone. I used L-pads in my 4x's. It was my first restoration. If you want authentic pots the ones from Chris1this1 are worth a try. While you're in there be sure to replace the capacitor. You'll need one 20uF per speaker.
  7. JKent

    $2,000 KLH Model Fives

    Neither was I at first but after re-capping and re-sealing the surrounds with Roy's goo they were great. This isn't the first attempt to re-create classic KLH speakers. When Henry Kloss was at Cambridge Soundworks they released a Model Six and a Model Seventeen that I believe were supposed to be modern versions of the corresponding KLH models. Have you ever heard the CSW Six?
  8. Thanks. Actually my frames are stalled. A friend who works in a wood shop was cutting pieces of poplar but he's been out of work and even if he had them we're staying isolated so when the weather warms up I'll take my table saw outside and cut some pine myself. Those look nice but I'm doing these for a friend and I don't think he wants to spend $120 for the grilles. But I appreciate the info.
  9. JKent

    AR2 Tweeter

    Just to rain on your parade.... There are online high frequency hearing tests that will tell you whether you can hear those tweeter frequencies. All speaker specs tell you about the frequency range of 20 to 20k Hz. Can you hear 20k? No. And depending on your age and other factors you may not hear 15k. Or 12k. Or even 10k. So what will this mod do?
  10. JKent

    AR2 Tweeter

    Agree. Those are simple add-ons. The only downside: all the suggested tweeters are a bit expensive. I wonder if these are similar to the Realistic ones https://www.parts-express.com/pyramid-tw28-375-aluminum-bullet-horn-tweeter-pair-with-swivel-housing--270-105 Here's a thread about DIY supertweeters that also mentions other options.http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?/topic/10548-diy-supertweeters/&tab=comments#comment-124149 PE has a lot of tweeters that look promising but I would do something external and not mess up nice original AR-2s. Some of the horn tweeters could just be placed on a shelf without any enclosure and if you use a piezo you don't even need a filter (I don't prefer piezos but with others you need to add a capacitor.
  11. Try here: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/hi-vi-soft-dome-tweeters/hi-vi-q1r-1-fabric-dome-tweeter-116-mm-flange/ inductor: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/madisound-air-core-inductors-19-awg/madisound-0.05-mh-19-awg-air-core-inductor/ I'd phone or email to check availability.
  12. I've used Millersound for re-coning and re-foaming and I thought his prices were very reasonable. Give Bill a call. The solvent trick could work. Early AR and KLH woofers were sealed with a toluene based sealant. All that stuff is pretty nasty. PS: Just checked my records. Cost to re-cone a pair of Cizek (6") woofers was $78 including shipping. Re-foaming some messed up AR-91 12" woofers was $70 + $15 shipping. Well worth it IMHO.
  13. Beautiful! The stripping really brings out the beauty of the walnut.
  14. No mention of L-pads because then customers would look for L-pads and find them at PE for $5. But they ARE L-pads. The giveaway is "different terminal layout ". Here's his current ad: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ACOUSTIC-RESEARCH-AR-3a-CONTROLS-INSTALLATION-KIT-LIFETIME-GUARANTEE/191490399538?hash=item2c95b79d32:g:MQoAAMXQk-FRESZQ I'm not criticizing. Larry Lagace is Vintage-AR and his products are very useful. As I said, I bought his "replacement controls" for my first restoration and the printed instructions were very invaluable for a novice. But if you want to know what's in your speakers, they're L-pads. So getting back to the quote from Roy (who btw does some work for Larry) "I prefer the .05mh coil, 5uf cap, L-pads/no resistor, and like-polarity." You have the L-pads. If you go with the Hi-Vi tweeters, do not use a resistor. Do not reverse polarity. Do add a .05mH coil. The cap is up to you. If you are re-capping anyway replace the 6uF with a 5uF. Otherwise just adjust the sound with the L-pads and the tone controls on your amp. Kent PS: If you search ebay for "AR 3, AR3a 5, 4x 2ax Pot Acoustic Research Speaker 16 Ohm Control potentiometer" you will find some actual closed-back pots offered by a seller in Brooklyn for $30 each and apparently identical ones being sold by CSP member Chris1this1 for $25 each.
  15. When I did my 1st speaker restoration in 2004 I bought "replacement pots" from Vintage-AR. They were plain ol' L-pads from Parts Express with Larry's printed instructions. Useful for a novice but not pots. The only "standard potentiometers" for these speakers are Ohmites (hard to find and absurdly overpriced) and some Soviet surplus ones being sold by an ebayer in some former Eastern bloc country. Standard potentiometers are open-back and would require an enclosure of some kind. First picture below shows Ohmites in a plastic box in AR-3. Second shot is an original AP pot on the left and an L-pad on the right.
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