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About JKent

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  • Birthday July 14

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    Northwest NJ

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  1. AR's Biggest Little Speaker? AR-18s

    Welcome Adam Rick Cobb and Audiodogs are sellers. Add to those http://www.speakerworks.com/speaker_repair_kits_s/65.htm JBL and Boston filled fillet are the type of foam. For that reason you are better off with one of these specialists (sellers) than with Parts Express or Simply Speakers who, I believe, sell "generic" 8 inch foams. Not all 8" foams are the same. As a first-timer you are better off with a kit, which will come with the stuff you need and instructions. The Speakerworks site I linked has a video to watch. There is some disagreement about whether you should remove the dust caps and install shims. IMHO (and that of many members here) shims are the way to go. Also, check to see what kind of glue comes with the kit you order. I'm a big fan of the white glue. It's like Aleene's Tacky glue (which can also be used). Some sellers have solvent-based glue that's like contact cement and VERY unforgiving. DO NOT GET THAT STUFF. The white glue can be smeared around with your finger and washes off with water. If you goof you can peel the foam off and try again. Use white glue. Roger recommended Madisound for Cali caps and I second that. You want film caps (Carlis are mylar film) for long life but there is no reason to buy expensive caps. I don't know the values of the caps in your 18s but you can combine caps if needed and you don't have to have the exact value (3.9 is fine for replacing 4.0). The 18 used a 6uF cap so maybe the 18s does too (some versions of the 18 series used a 5uF). Here's the 6uF https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/carli-capacitors/carli-mylar-6-mfd/ If you need 5uF you can use a 4.7uF Carli, https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/carli-capacitors/carli-mylar-4.7-mfd/ or if you want a 5 here's a Solen https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/solen-capacitors/solen-5-mfd-fast-cap-400v/ Hope this helps. -Kent PS: Rob says So either the Carli 4.7 or the Solen 5.0 should work fine. If you're compulsive about the cap value you could even add this Bennic in parallel with the Carli to make 5.03uF https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/pmt-poly-cap-630vdc/bennic-pmt-0.33mfd-polypropylene-630v-cap/ Parallel caps are not as silly as it may seem: The Carli/Bennic combo costs less than a Solen The Carli has an ESR that is closer to the original electrolytics and therefore could sound more authentic. Some people think "bypassing" a tweeter cap with a small value cap has sonic benefits, so "it couldn't hurt".
  2. AR 8in. WOOFERS

    So in the 25 the tweeter polarity is reversed relative to the woofer? Or am I looking at this wrong. Anyway, I like it. I added L-pads to AR-94si's and to some home-brew speakers I built. But did I keep a diagram or photo? Nooooo -Kent
  3. AR 2 Speakers

    The "a" was shown in the photo so you might want to contact the seller and see if it/they fell off and ask him to send them to you. I have some reproduction a's that I sell on the auction site. Send me a PM if interested. -Kent
  4. AR 8in. WOOFERS

    I think that is a mis-spelling of "Bass" as in "Bass driver (woofer)". Jeff--it's a good thing you were unable to part with those old "ruined" speakers! Around here I've noticed the supply of old speakers at the Salvation Army seems to have dried up. I know they check all electronics before selling and discard any that are no good. I wonder if they dump all the speakers with bad foams. Several years ago I just happened to be there when a pair of AR Powered Partners came in. I asked the manager how much and he said they needed to be tested. I convinced him to sell them "as is". Got them home and they didn't work but after new foams and a new RCA jack they were fine. I'm sure those would have wound up in the dump.
  5. AR 8in. WOOFERS

    ra.ra. gave you some good leads. I'd be tempted to re-foam the Rat Shack woofers and take my time to see if some p/n 200001 woofers show up at a cheap price. Who knows? The speakers may sound fine with the RS woofs. Good thing you didn't pay the full asking price! Sadly, I've been there myself. Before joining this great forum I didn't know any better. Threw away a perfectly good VMPS 12" woofer and 15" passive radiator (replaced them with genuine VMPS parts but that was a needless expense). Also gave away some Boston A40s. Live & learn...... -Kent
  6. AR 2 Speakers

    Interesting. They must be very early 2ax's. I "had" a pair just like those (can't keep 'em all), SN 41070 & 40214. See photo below. The tweeters in these are later style 2ax tweets. The early ones had red phenolic domes. Assuming that's what yours have, look at the domes closely to make sure they haven't popped off the 3 foam suspension points. A photo of that is also shown below and that's a catastrophic failure (which is why I had to replace them). What are the serial numbers on yours? We'll want to see "naked" pictures once you get the grilles off. What happened to the "a" badges shown in the 1st picture. Hope you still have them. I assume your 2ax's have the cast aluminum frame alnico woofers. The caps may not be the oil-filled ones used in the 2a so check them out. I think the early 2ax has one 6uF and one 4uF per speaker. Attached xover schematic from John O'Hanlon. -Kent
  7. KLH 5, should I?

    Maybe not. Original KLH Five surrounds are cloth. The only thing that should be done to them is a light treatment with Roy's butyl sealant. -Kent
  8. AR 2 Speakers

    No harm/no foul. Happy to see them here.
  9. AR 2 Speakers

    btw--those are my 2a's, with one of my 4x's on top
  10. AR 2 Speakers

    Hi Sean and welcome! BUY THEM! First, what you have there are AR-2a (not 2) speakers. That's good. I have the 4x (purchased new in 1969) and the 2a (recent acquisitions) as well as 3a. Used to have the 2ax, which are very nice. Take a look in our Library http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/ The speakers mentioned are all from the original series, 1954-1974. Not sure of the exact years for the 2a, early '60s I think but others here will narrow it down. The 2a has a 10" Alnico woofer in a sturdy cast aluminum frame, a pair of angled tweeters and a phenolic dome supertweeter. The tweeters are angled in such a way that the speakers were meant to be placed on their sides, on a bookshelf but many place them upright. They will need some work: The pots (level controls) will have to be cleaned or maybe replaced. The capacitors will probably NOT need replacement if they are the oil-filled type found in my 2a's. The woofer surround is cloth, so won't need to be replaced but it may need a treatment with CSP member RoyC's sealant (do NOT use anything else. Either buy the sealant from Roy or from Vintage-AR). The cabinet scratches can be fixed with some VERY careful sanding (it's only veneer). And the linen grille cloth can possibly be cleaned. If not, nice linen is available. Be sure to read the AR-3a restoration guide in the Library. The 2a is the little brother to the 3a and most of what you read about restoring the 3a applies to the 2a. The grilles are a dog to remove so don't be too hasty. I like the 2a a lot. It's a bigger, fuller sounding speaker than the 4x. The 4x is a great speaker for its size but the 2a gives you more. I'd consider the receiver and TT a bonus. Both look good. btw, the receiver is in the wood cabinet backward. Love all the wood! The Scott, Dual & AR combo will give you a great LOOKING as well as great sounding vintage setup. Is that A scott 348? Some info and a schematic here: http://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/hh-scott/348.shtml and here are manuals and other info on the Dual 1009: http://www.vinylengine.com/library/dual/1009.shtml Just remember--the Scott will need to be checked out by a qualified technician and the Dual will probably need some cleaning and oiling and tweaking. Maybe a new cartridge. None of this can be enjoyed "as-is" IMHO. You will need to invest some time and a little money but the results should be very worthwhile. Keep us posted and ask any questions you may have. -Kent
  11. KLH 28s in Maine

    Including Consumer Reports.
  12. AR-5 refurb

    And another welcome to you rup You are very lucky to have saved your 5s, even when they seemed "shot". They are very highly regarded among classic speaker aficionados and very worth restoring. You've received good advice from ra.ra. and Geoff's (stupidhead) thread is worth reading. A couple of other thoughts: Re-foaming woofers is not difficult although the first time it may seem daunting. If you want to do it yourself it will cost about 20 bux or less. We can give advice on where to buy them and how to do it. If you lack the time or interest to do that, send them to Bill leGall of Millersound in PA (google it. He has a nice web site). He's THE speaker guru and will do an expert job with your woofers, probably for under $100. Another option would be CSP member RoyC. He may chime in on this subject but you should know is a co-author of the AR-3a restoration guide and he does a lot of restoration work for ebay seller Vintage-AR. He may be willing to refoam your woofers and would do an expert job. If you have the capacitors like the ones in Geoff's speakers they may be fine for now. Electrolytic caps last about 30 years more-or-less before they start to leak and drift. Spragues are excellent and "may" still be within spec but yours are over 40 years old, so.... probably should be replaced. As an aside, I repair a lot of 50+ year old KLH tube radios. They have a 4.7uF Sprague electrolytic cap and even though the radios work with the old cap, when I measure the caps they are typically off by 50 to 100+% (measure 7.5 to 11uF and more). It's not hard to replace your crossover caps if you know how to use a soldering iron, and new film caps will last virtually forever. The pots in yours are an issue. Best solution IMHO (not everyone agrees) is to replace them with L-pads. They cost about $4 each from partsexpress and will work reliably. Soldering skill is helpful but if you can't solder you can use crimp connectors. As Roy told Geoff in the linked thread, probably the only work you need to do to get the 5s up and running is re-foam the woofers (do NOT replace them) and replace the broken pots. A picture is worth a thousand words. Let's see 'em! If the cabinets are in good shape (seems likely) a quick wipe with Howard restore-a-Finish and an application of their Feed-n-Wax will have them looking like new. And I'll reiterate--be sure to look at the excellent AR-3a restoration guide. Most of it is applicable to your 5s. Let the fun begin! -Kent
  13. On another point... I wonder what's going on with your woofers. I've never heard of dust caps disintegrating and I'm pretty sure that despite how the foam surrounds look, they're probably shot. And regarding the caps; the 4uF & 8uF are Callins PVC and they are notorious for leaking. Replace them with film caps. The cans OTOH may still be good. Do you have a C tester? Of course you may want to replace them just to be on the safe side. I'd use film for the 24uF and let your budget decide whether to go with film or NPE for the 80uF. The only advantage to film is it will last virtually forever, but film caps that size are pricey (about $20-$30 USD each or more, vs about $1 USD or less for NPE). -Kent
  14. Welcome Norm! I hope some other members are more on top of this topic than I. I did refurbish a nice pair of 92s for a fellow member a couple of months back but did not keep adequate notes. The dust cap was solid paper as I recall. You can use a paper or felt cap. I don't think it matters--just not a porous cap. Size is not that critical as long as it's a bit larger than the originals. Glue them on with white PVA glue. I like Aleene's Tacky Glue but that may not be available in Oz. Elmer's glue maybe. I used some foam speaker grille material for the rings around the tweets and mids but I'm sure A/C filter or foam vacuum cleaner foam filter will work. Or just leave them off. Oh! Just got a pop-up that says ar_pro has responded. Looks like he answered most of your questions. -Kent PS: Just looked at the schematics ar_pro provided. The big cap in the ones I worked on was 80uF, not 100. And there was a 24uF an 8 and a 4. No 40uF. Best bet is to open yours up and see what's inside. The schematics shown are for the 91, which supposedly had the same xo as the 92 but the 92 I worked on was different. The dust caps are cloth, but non-porous.