JKent

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About JKent

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  • Birthday July 14

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    highlandlks

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  1. Welcome Jaykay3 A disclaimer: I'm not an ADS expert. But here is some info: http://stereonomono.blogspot.com/2012/12/ads-l730.html My advice, FWIW: If you LOVE the speakers do NOT modify them! They were carefully designed by engineers and computers, so just slapping in new drivers, no matter how good (or expensive) will alter the sound. These speakers are known for their accuracy, so why mess with that? OTOH, they are from ~1980 and assuming they have electrolytic capacitors in the crossovers, those "could" be out of spec by now. I get a little nervous when I hear Capacitors maybe. Nothing else. One poor soul on the AR thread had his vintage AR speakers "crossovers rebuilt with the most modern caps/etc" and yes--it DID make a "big difference"--it RUINED them! So. If they sound good enjoy them! If you feel comfortable poking around inside with a soldering iron go ahead and replace the old capacitors with some mylar or other film caps and/or non-polar electrolytics but leave everything else alone. -Kent PS: I was looking for info on the crossovers and found an old ad for some for sale. They've been sold but it looks like the whole crossover is fastened to the speaker terminal plate and is very easily removed. No need to pull the woofer. But it's a PCB, pretty tightly packed. I couldn't see the caps but I don't think I'd mess with it. Speaking of woofers. Do these have foam woofer surrounds? If so, that's where you should make repairs.
  2. This is a good vendor http://www.speakerworks.com/default.asp Personally, I would not go with PE because I believe (I could be wrong) their surrounds are pretty generic. I'd follow Roy's advice and get the Boston filled fillet type or the JBL. Nice find on the 7s! The real wood veneer is hard to find. And use shims! -Kent
  3. I'd remove the dust caps and shim. That would also help find the source of the rubbing. -Kent
  4. But they're "awesome"
  5. Hey Cat One way to prevent fraying is to cut the Mellotone grille material with a hot knife. There are specific "hot knife" tools but I think you can get a knife blade for your soldering iron. I assume you're using the Mellotone. It's hard to get it to lay flat or go around edges. Someone suggested heating it with a hair dryer. I have not tried that, after destroying some old KLH Model 21 radio grilles, but the Mellotone may be more durable. Sorry I didn't find this sooner, but when I did mine I used 3M spray adhesive. -Kent
  6. Or... Do what I did. My AR-3s had 1 bad mid and 2 bad tweets, so I decided to convert the speakers to AR-3a's. I plan to keep these, so re-sale value was not a consideration. btw--those originals tweeters are ridiculously heavy! And with brittle front-wired leads, it's an invitation for disaster.The process included: Building a new AR-3a crossover (it's more complex than the AR-3) Replacing the tweeters with Hi-Vi units Replacing the mids with AR-11 units Since the new drivers are back-wired I just abandoned the terminal strip and used StaKons for back wiring. The "a" pin wasn't used on AR-3a's but this is sort of a hybrid, so I figured "why not?" The 3rd photo shows an original grille, 4th shot is new Mellotone grille. Only drawback to the AR-11 mid is it can show through the grille. -Kent
  7. Thanks Kent. I have a few Newbie issues to work through.

    Joe

  8. Go to Roy's post, above, and click on his name. A little window will pop up and in the lower left corner is an envelope icon marked "Message". Click that to send him a personal message (PM)
  9. Welcome Abrasiveguy Do you sell sandpaper or are you really annoying? Those are a little unusual. Early versions maybe. Most of the AP pots had (I think) red or black plastic stems with those pins molded right in. I wonder if you can use a plastic stem instead of the aluminum. Maybe someone else will know if they are interchangeable.. If so, I have one I could send to you. -Kent
  10. Welcome to CSP buzuddha and Jeffh! There don't seem to be a lot of Dahlquist guys here so you may not get a lot of feedback but keep trying! Buz, that's a fantastic GW find and your new crossovers look fantastic! Very neat and professional work. I don't really understand your question; Just twist the leads together according to the schematic and solder? Your skill level seems high so I'm unsure what you are asking. -Kent
  11. Yawner, Don't know how long you've been lurking but in case you don't already know, Roy's your man. He's an author of the AR-3a restoration guide and if anyone can fix that woofer he can.
  12. Welcome Yawner! Of course your very first post here has made us all green with envy so you may get the cold shoulder at the CSP cocktail parties All kidding aside--incredible good luck, both the find and finding your way to the forum! I'll echo what's been said: Photos please and just use the restoration guide to determine exactly which woofer you need, then watch ebay (or, given your lucky streak, there may be a member here with one to sell). -Kent
  13. DANGER WILL ROBINSON, DANGER! I used it on an AR-3 saran grille. It oozed through the grille a bit and left noticeable pink stains on the long sides. I believe the solvent in the E6000 dissolved the plastic frame a bit, causing the pink color because the E6000 is clear. -Kent
  14. Welcome srkitchens I think the fiberglass is the best bet. I replaced the foam in my OLAs with fiberglass and IIRC that's what Carl recommended. Those Powered Advents are pretty rare! Good luck with them! -Kent
  15. Hi Henry Welcome to CSP! You've come to the right place. I'd suggest you first download and read the AR 3a restoration guide http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library/acoustic_research/original_models_1954-1974/original_models_schematicss/restoring_the_ar-3a/ Your 2ax's are essentially slightly smaller versions of the 3a and they are excellent speakers--well worth restoring. -Kent