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JKent

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About JKent

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  • Birthday July 14

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    Male
  • Location
    Appalachian Mountains of NJ
  • Interests
    KLH Model Eight radios, classic American Hi-Fi, jazz, classic rock, C5 'vette

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  1. Since you asked.... (I know you didn't but I'll grab any opportunity 😉 ) 1. The original Twenty-One replaced the tube Model Eight around 1965. It was all transistor with a walnut veneer cabinet, beige knobs and a beige/white plastic grille. 2. The Twenty-One/II came out around 1969 after Singer bought KLH. It was essentially identical to the original but had a black cloth grille, black/silver knobs and the “Waller” tuner. 3. The Twenty-One FM came out in the early ‘70s. It was larger, had a vinyl clad cabinet and a foam grille (that always disintegrated). 4. The Twenty-One AM/FM. Same thing, with AM. 5. The Twenty-One CL. Clock radio. The largest of the three later Twenty-Ones, had a flip-type clock that had about a 99% failure rate. The photo shows all, in order, top to bottom, except the Twenty-One AM/FM. It looks just like the FM but with a dial like the CL. The round "Acoustic Suspension Speaker" is missing from the FM in the photo. Because the foam grilles deteriorated the round stick-on badges got lost. The original is the highest-price collectible. The II is my favorite--it's from the Singer era with slightly newer (i. e. better) electronics than the original. The cloth grille doesn't shrink like the vinyl on the original and the cabinet is still real walnut veneer (although the substrate is slightly inferior to the original). The slightly larger FM, AM/FM and the much larger CL have that damnable "wood grain vinyl" cabinets. Other cosmetic horrors include the foam grilles that deteriorate and the aluminum strips that tended to become unglued and lost. But they sounded great. All used the "Twelve point five" speaker that was also used as the mid in the KLH Twelve and Five, and as a full range in the Eleven, Fourteen, Nineteen and others. I have an AM/FM that I re-veneered with real walnut and replaced the foam grille with black stretchy grille cloth over a frame. Not an authentic restoration but it looks SO much better. The only loser among them was the CL. My friend Tim at Bristol Electronics says he used to buy replacement clock mechanisms by the case! I have 2 CLs. One actually has a working clock!
  2. Your Model Twenty will probably need some work. Those old Garrard changers can be a challenge and I would definitely replace the speaker capacitors: One 8uF and two 2uF per speaker. They are the old black/red Callins type and they leak and fail. I love the '60s KLH radios. Have restored about 100 Model Eight tube radios. The Model Twenty-One is a great solid state radio (actually there were 5 different Twenty-Ones). Kent
  3. No You want 2 single RCA to RCA cables (3.5mm is a TRS plug). Something like this: https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=&cp_id=&cs_id=&p_id=654&sep=1&format=2 The center pin is positive and the outer ring is negative. ANY RCA cable will do. You may have some spares on hand. Many are double, with one red and one white but often the cable is basically zip cord and you can peel the 2 apart to make 2 individual cables.
  4. maybe mention where the speakers are located for pick up
  5. Bill, The plastic project box used in my post of May 21 should work. It was tight in there for the Ohmite pots. Don't know if the Russkie ones are bigger, smaller or the same. I'm surprised Heathkit used those stupid metal plates (like KLH). In general I think the Heathkit cabs are superior to AR but they goofed there! Anyway, the plastic box is of course non-conductive and should work. Sorry but I don't have the box size written down.
  6. I'm sticking with my original answer: No problem. The KLH Model Seventeen and Twenty loudspeakers are identical: Same cabinets, exactly the same crossovers, exactly the same tweeters. The only difference was the woofer. The Seventeen used an 8 ohm woofer and the Twenty used a 4 ohm woofer. Therefore the 17 was an 8 ohm system and the 20 was a 4 ohm system. AR used exactly the same tweeter in the 8 ohm AR-2a and the 4 0hm AR-3. I do not think there will be any dire consequences. Kent PS: Although I agree that "Indiscriminately replacing drivers in speakers will most likely result in less than desirable results" and this IS a classic speakers forum where we try to preserve the original chacter of classic speakers, your experiment won't damage anything. This whole thread may be more appropriate in the "tweaks and mods" section of the forum. So while I agree with RTally that the best thing is to keep it original (ESPECIALLY with KLH Sixes, which Henry Kloss said were the ones where he "got it right"), your experiment won't kill your speakers or your electronics. It just won't sound right.
  7. Yup. That's it. I'm a little skeptical about gluing silicone. Others have made little boxes with holes in the sides covered with screen. I used a plastic project box, also with holes/screen. Kent
  8. Hey Bill Yes--those gaskets should be replaced. My favorite is the gasket tape from Parts Express. https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-3-8-x-50-ft-roll--260-540 However you can, if you wish, pick up a chunk of duct seal, roll out some 1/4" diameter worms and use that. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-lb-Plug-Duct-Seal-Compound-DS-110/100212441 Or, if you feel confident using an X-Acto knife, pick up a couple of sheets of Creatology foam and cut your own https://www.michaels.com/12x18-foam-sheet-by-creatology/M10597609.html You didn't ask about this, but FWIW those black and red caps should be replaced. They are probably Callins or Elcap or Temple and are made of black PVC with a different material for the red ends. Over time they leak and drift. Kent
  9. Not surprisingly, this wall mount kit is virtually ientical to the one supplied with my Allison: Fours.
  10. Welcome BVojtek I doubt you'll get any advice here, in the For Sale section of a forum dedicated to speakers from New England but some folks over on AudioKarma have experience with the Sonabs. Try starting here: https://www.google.com/search?q=Sonab+2212+site:audiokarma.org&client=safari&rls=en&sxsrf=ACYBGNSQuOkZKGV69rA25B12JpTOcn6wSQ:1574962140396&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi3vaaXt43mAhVRnFkKHVtiCoUQrQIoBDABegQIAhAN&biw=1141&bih=1090
  11. Aadams is an eagle eye! Ditto on "Have you downloaded and read the AR3 restoration guide? You really need to read the woofer seal section of the restoration guide." I took that photo Adams posted and lightened it a bit in Photoshop. Sure looks like a hole!
  12. Hey budney I don't claim to be a 3a expert but I believe the Tonegen mids are good drivers and should not cause your speakers to sound bad. Being out of phase OTOH WILL make them sound bad so correcting the phase should have made a big difference. I don't know how awful the Marantz tweeter is. Apparently it was selected because it fit in the hole. But relatively little sound comes from the tweets and if you turn down the Hi levels the speakers "should" sound OK--maybe lacking sparkle and air, but not bad. . i find it difficult to describe the sound of speakers but if you could give more of a description than "bad" it might help. I'm hoping someone with more experience refoaming 3a woofers will take a close look at yours. They don't "look" right with that gap around the perimeter of the foam but let's see what others have to say about that. Below is a pic of the similar 12" woofer from my AR-91s next to yours for comparison. -Kent
  13. Beautiful. Excellent cabinet work and I love that new veneer. Better than new. Your orphan hand-built shouldn't be a problem. Build it a mate! "We have the technology."
  14. Great work Mike! I love the old 2ax with the Alnico/cast aluminum/cloth surround woofers. Looks like you're doing a first class job on everything. Very clever pot repair. We'll be interested to know how it works out. You asked earlier about the deteriorated diffraction ring on the woofer. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. Keep the pictures coming!
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