JKent

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About JKent

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  1. Good lead Carl. I've bought from them. An outfit I really like is justradios.com in Ontario although, as the name says they are more for the electronic parts than speaker parts but I recommend them. -Kent
  2. ooops. Bienvenue à CSP Partsexpress and Madisound are mail order and may ship to Canada. Or there may be similar speaker building supply outfits up there. Vintage AR on ebay definitely ships to Canada (or send a PM to CSP member RoyC). Michael's is a craft store. Lowes is a "home center" but the duct seal should be available from an electric supply store--it's used to seal electric boxes exposed to moisture. -Kent
  3. See eBay item number:162564805763 for the goo. Here's how to check if you need it: Using 3 fingers like a tripod around the outside edge of the dust cap, push the woofer cone inward. Release. See if it returns slowly or just springs right back. If it springs back there is an air leak. One possible source of the leak is the cloth woofer surround--they may have become porous. Roy's goo is the correct formula to re-seal them. NEVER use any of the do-it-yourself methods some people have recommended (like silicone bathtub caulk). The cloth-surround woofers are excellent and will last a very long time so ONLY use Roy's goo. There is a service bulletin in the library describing use of the butyl sealant: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library/klh/other/klh_schematicsservice/klh_service_bulletin_60.pdf Other sources of leaks include the cabinet (unlikely) and the gasket between the driver (woofer, tweeter) and the cabinet. Based on your close-up shot it looks like your tweeters have white foam gaskets. No reason to remove the tweeters. Your woofers look like they also have foam. The foam can become squished (it's a technical term) and may not make a good seal. PartsExpress sells some good products for sealing the space. One is their "Speaker Gasketing Tape 1/8" x 3/8" x 50 ft. Roll", the other is "12" Speaker Sealing Caulk Box of 72 Pcs.". But in either case you're buying way more than you need. A couple of other options: Lowes and other stores sell "Gardner Bender 1-lb Pug Duct Seal" for about $3. Again, more than you need but it's cheap. It's basically the same stuff as the PE Sealing Caulk but you have to form it yourself. It's like a big lump of plasticene modeling clay. Break off a piece and roll it out in your hands to make "worms" about 1/8" or so in diameter. You probably did that as a kid. Use these around the speaker opening or on the speaker itself to make a good seal. Another way to go: Michaels and other craft stores sell sheets of Creatology foam. They are 12" x 9" so you'll need 2 but they are just a buck apiece. Draw your gaskets on the foam and cut them out. Hope this is helpful. -Kent
  4. So... looks like Mar 2, 1970. Those cloth surround woofers may benefit from a light coat of Roy's goo (available from ebay seller Vintage AR). I like Carli caps from Madisound. Good quality, quite inexpensive. -Kent
  5. Welcome to the CSP Funt I don't know. The KLH spreadsheet in the Library says the Seventeens were produced 1967-74 but there's an ad there from July '65, so I'd say maybe '65 to '74? SN 132793 "seems" rather late--so I'm guessing closer to '74 but I don't know. I had a pair at one time, SN 05663 and 070827, so much lower numbers than yours. btw. I STRONGLY recommend replacing the capacitors. Just 3 caps per speaker--one 8uF and two 2uF. They're the infamously leaky Callins black and red PVC. One of them in my Seventeens had actually exploded (that's a double 2uF--just replace with two individual caps). -Kent
  6. Just be careful. AR2ax "mids" are actually tweeters and are not what you want. The 10pi or 11 are ideal, as I mentioned earlier, or other options as Roy mentioned. AR-91/92? Maybe you should check here or PM Roy before purchasing anything. Roy--What about building the simpler AR-3 crossover? One more thing Juan: Are you sure those woofers are both good? If they're the raison d'être for this project you want to be sure they're good. -Kent
  7. Welcome racfan9 No manufacturer's name or "Made in ..." label. I'm tempted to say "white van speakers" but if they sound good, that's all that really matters. -Kent
  8. oooops. Sorry. So I'll go back to suggesting the Hi-Vi.
  9. Here's a 91 xo, labeled. Also an "after" pic.
  10. Well, I feel a little foolish. My original reply was based on the assumption you were in the US. I just heard from RoyC and he said that it may be a lost cause. The cost of drivers and other parts being sent to Argentina could be prohibitive. He also mentioned that your woofer cones look odd. Whoever "worked" on those totally butchered them and it may not be practical to try to restore them. Sorry if I gave you false hope.
  11. Wow! I don't know if we have any members in SA. I visited your beautiful city a couple of years ago. According to the schematic the switch is a standard DPDT (dual pole dual throw) toggle switch. Probably available in BA at an electronic parts store, hardware store or auto parts store. Something like this https://www.parts-express.com/dpdt-heavy-duty-toggle-switch-spade-connectors--060-452
  12. Here's a more accurate breakdown: The 150uF cap may be fine. Here are Madisound prices: A new Bennic 150uF NPE is $3.70. Carli Mylar 20uF is $5.95, 10uF is $2.75, 6uF is $1.80. So about $16 worth of caps per speaker. Hi-Vi Q1R tweeter is $18.80. You need a coil with that, 0.05mH I think (it's .05 for L-pads, .07 for pots. The improveds have switches so I'm not certain. Madisound .05mH is $2.30. Your existing coils and resistors are fine. The switches are probably fine but may need a bit of De-Ox-It. As I said, mids sort of depend on the whims of ebay OR if you can get some from a CSP member. I see two 10pi mids on ebay now for $90 each (I have 10pi mids from Roy in my 3a's). Add in new foams and your total cost could be ~$300 for DIY or ~$400 if you send the woofers out. The cabinets will be a challenge. CSP member Glenn is the expert on patching veneer. Or if you are less fussy you can make some good repairs with walnut color Mohawk epoxy sticks. If the grilles are gone you can make new frames. I don't know what the original fabric looked like but there are many choices in that department. I "think" the originals were linen, like the 3a and if so the best choice is the "lambswool" color 18 count linen from 123 Stitch. It's a little pricey but beautiful. It also comes in other colors. A cheap substitute is 28 count "Irish Linen" cross-stitch fabric from Michael's craft store. It's about $8 a roll. You need 2 rolls and there are always 40% off coupons available. Or, the euro-look Improveds may be nice with black cloth. Best choice: Let the wife pick out the cloth -Kent
  13. Hi Juan RoyC is the guy to talk to. The 3a Improved crossover is different. Here's a schematic And the cabinet is different, and the grille (do you have them?) and the logo. But 90% of what's in the 3a restoration guide is applicable. As for drivers, you can use the later mids I mentioned (10pi, 11) and there may be more. AR-3a mids can be about $150 each but the 10pi and 11 are identical and seem to sell for under $100 each. I don't know what other AR mids may be appropriate. The Hi-Vi tweeter is a good replacement and inexpensive. If you are doing the work yourself a rought guess would be $200-300 for the mids and tweets, maybe $50-75 for the capacitors, $20 for a set of woofer foams (or maybe $100 to have Bill LeGall do them). Those are very rough estimates. Again, Roy is the guy to talk to. He may have most of the parts you need, can give expert advice, and is also very qualified to refoam your woofers. Also look at this thread. John O'Hanlon (johnieo) knows a lot about this speaker. He mentions that the Improveds did not use the same tweeter as the original 3a. It's a ferrofluid cooled model, pictures A-22 or A-24 in the AR-3a restoration booklet. He also mentions that AR-10pi and AR-11 tweeters Are perfect replacements. Google "AR-3a Improved" and you will find more good info. Where are you located? There may be a CSP member close by who could help. -Kent
  14. No--not worth it. Send them to me and I'll dispose of them Welcome to the CSP! I think you have a couple of options: Easiest thing would be to sell the woofers and the the crossovers and put the money toward some other speakers. The other option, if you feel up to the challenge and an addictive new hobby would be to undertake a restoration. First step would be to download and review the AR3a restoration guide linked at the beginning of the AR section. Then you'd have to refoam the woofers, restore the crossovers, replacing those 3 black caps, find some 3a or 10Pi or 11 mids and maybe the Hi-Vi tweeters, Then there will be some work fixing up the cabinets. It's a big project but can be quite rewarding and I'm guessing you have some attachment to these, since they were your uncle's. Lots of help available here. btw, that "technician" should be publicly flogged! -Kent
  15. Bill is usually very prompt about answering. Here's the contact page so you can be sure you have the right contact info http://www.millersound.net/contact-bill-legall-millersound.html