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About JKent

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  • Birthday July 14

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  1. I'm having a little trouble seeing the hole in your woofer. Is the hole stuffed with a piece of foam? A hole can be easily fixed: Tear a patch from a coffee filter and glue it in place with Aleene's Tacky Glue. But it looks like there are other issues. The damper ring appears to be missing as does the dust cap. Maybe other members can figure this out. The tweeter doesn't look to have "popped" yet but there are solutions for that, too: Buy another tweet on ebay (But these are near the end of their useful lives), have the tweeter rebuilt by CSP member Chris, replace with Hi-Vi tweeters. The 2ax IS worth restoring. And of course the crossover is all wrong. If the EV cabinets are OK, you could keep them. Unless you hate the look. You have not mentioned the fiberglass stuffing. Is it there? Easy to replace if it's missing. Or....Part it out if the project seems daunting in terms of labor and cost. One has to wonder why the previous owner did this mod. Kent
  2. Agreed. Welcome Clint. A new thread will cut down on the confusion between your project and Eddy's. Do your speakers work and sound OK? New cabs would be nice but as ra.ra. mentioned make sure the internal volume (and the amount of fiberglass stuffing) is the same as the original. Not sure what's going on with that crossover but an original crossover would be appropriate too. You may be able to re-use the inductors if one is 1.13mH. Kent
  3. I like it better but yess--similar to 409, Fantastik, etc. Amazon sells it. Here's a description: https://www.spraynine.com/product/spray-nine-cleanerdegreaser-8/
  4. Here's a pic of the crossover
  5. You were right Eddy, those ARE 2a-to2ax upgrades. The 2ax is a wonderful speaker and I think you will be happy with them once they've been refurbed. The pots are a weak point and DeOxit may help. Would also be a good idea to re-cap them. Below is a schematic for early 2ax speakers. If yours are like this there will be a big wax capacitor that combines a 6uF and a 4uF cap. Just replace that with individual 4 and 6uF film caps. The wax block can be left in place. Those 10" woofers are very good but you should do the "3-finger test" to see if the surrounds are porous: Put your thumb and 2 fingers around the outside of the dust cap like a tripod. Push the woofer in and see if it returns slowly (1-2 seconds) or pops right back out. Slow is good. If it comes back fast, CSP member RoyC has cooked up some authentic butyl woofer surround dope. -Kent
  6. Perfect! Keep us posted. -Kent
  7. Hi Eddy and welcome Nice find! Those look like standard AR-2a's to me. Very nice speakers. Here's what they look like with the grilles off. The 2a to 2ax upgrade involved replacing the 2 angled mids with a single mid/tweeter. The single tweeter on these is a "supertweeter." I'm not sure what you mean by this: "What I thought was interesting is the terminal setup. So I can run a external tweeter (and mid i guess)" but my guess is you are referring to the 3 terminals on the back. The idea there was that you could use these as stand-alone woofers. I suggest you download the AR-3a restoration booklet. A lot of the info there is applicable to your 2a's. Also ask questions and we will try to help. -Kent
  8. Welcome Barryjo I'll echo ra.ra's sage advice: "slow down a bit." The AR-3s are excellent speakers and in unmolested condition they can fetch big bucks. Do NOT replace any drivers unless you are certain they are bad and then use only original AR drivers (not something from Parts Express.) Yes--tell us where you are and there may be a member nearby who can help. I can tell you that there are 2 very basic things that can go bad and make it seem like your tweeters or mids are trashed: The level controls (aka "pots" or potentiometers) and the capacitors ("caps"). You will read in the AR-3a restoration guide that the caps are old and probably out of spec and the pots WILL be corroded and can prevent sound coming from the mids and tweets. One quick check may be to twist the level control knobs back and forth several times to try to scrape off some corrosion. Then adjust slowly and see if you find a good spot. DO NOT remove the tweets or mids. They are absurdly heavy with ridiculously thin and fragile wire "tinsel" leads. any internal work can be accomplished by pulling the woofer and working through that hole. Lakecat suggested "One thing you can do is gently scrap away the black paint from your tweeter and mid leads on speaker in front. Take one of your speaker wires from amp or receiver, turn on unit and turn volume up slightly, and touch your tweeter leads on front with speaker wire to test tweeter to see if it works that way." I would just suggest that you not touch the leads themselves--instead you can scrape the paint off those 3 "buttons" tat the leads go to. Read. Study. Ask questions. Go slowly. It will be worth the time and effort. -Kent
  9. Congrats Cat! I looked at the McIntoshAudio site and noticed under "Non-McIntosh for Sale" they have a category "Floobydust". Have you bought any Floobydust from them? Is it high quality floobydust or just run-of-the-mill? How much dust does one flooby produce? Had to google that one: http://www.pinktronix.com.au/flooby-1-the-national-semiconductor-audio-radio-handbook.htm
  10. Paul I didn't know you are in Canada so that becomes a consideration when selecting parts and sellers. Carli caps are good and inexpensive here in the US. I don't know if they are available in Canada or what the duty would be if you bought from Madisound. MANY people use Solen caps and recommend them, so I don't think you can go wrong there. Mundorf has an excellent reputation so I think that's also a good choice. Stimpy's recommendation of Parts Connexion is a good one--I've bought caps from them. btw--another Canadian company I like very much is justradios.com. Unfortunately most of their film caps are too small for your purposes--just like to give them a plug. Solen film and Mundorf NPE sounds like a good bet. -Kent
  11. Right. I've bought lots of stuff from Surplus Sales of Nebraska but those big can caps are not "NPE" and therefore not suitable. Do I have a suggestion? Yes. Several, but you won't like them : Get an LCR meter Test the caps If the big caps are good, keep them if it ain't broke don't fix it Don't buy used caps If you must replace the big ones, 500uF is fine for the 470. Make sure it is bi-polar. This would work https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/electrolytic-cap-100vdc/bennic-500-mfd-electrolytic-caps/ so would the Mundorf E (electrolytic) cap Stimpy recommended. For the 2500, maybe one 500 and 2 of these https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/electrolytic-cap-100vdc/bennic-1000-mfd-electrolytic-caps/ Replace the smaller caps with film and test the new ones before installing. Carli caps are good, inexpensive, have close to the appropriate ESR https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/carli-capacitors/ Good luck with the rebuild. -Kent
  12. Yes. All capacitors have a voltage rating, usually DC. If you replace the caps, the voltage rating MUST be equal or greater. Looking at the schematic, the 470uF is 50VDC and the 2500uF is 60VDC. You can go higher--even MUCH higher--but never lower. btw--I would never cast aspersions on forum member Diamonds&Rust but I would not take any one person's opinion as gospel. BUT if you are convinced that his way is the right way, why not just send him a PM and ask what caps to buy and where to get them? -Kent
  13. No NPE caps available there.
  14. Welcome Jeb Make sure your photos are approx 100KB. If they are huge they won't upload. Fixing tinsel leads is an art. I know RoyC has done it. Maybe he'll comment. -Kent
  15. Welcome Pk A couple of observations: I like Nebraska Surplus Sales, recommended by AR_pro, but remember you need bi-polar caps. I don't know if their biggies are BP. Tom and Roy are real experts on AR speakers--both are co-authors of the AR-3a restoration guide. So if they say the caps don't tend to go bad, I'd believe them. Best bet might be to pick up an LCR meter (or at least a C meter) and check them. btw--if you do need to replace the caps there is nothing wrong with paralleling smaller values. Some people even prefer this approach. Big Brystons. Cool! -Kent