Jump to content
The Classic Speaker Pages Discussion Forums


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral


About JKent

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday July 14

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Appalachian Mountains of NJ
  • Interests
    KLH Model Eight radios, classic American Hi-Fi, jazz, classic rock, C5 'vette

Recent Profile Visitors

29,797 profile views
  1. JKent

    KLH 17 schematic?

    What he said. Not necessarily. I've worked on a few KLH speakers with this xo: The Seventeens, Twenties, there may have been another 2-way that used that xo. I've used Dayton, Carli and a couple of other inexpensive film caps with good results. One 8uF and two 2uF per box. The Seventeen is a very nice speaker that reproduces the full range of music sounds/frequencies nicely.
  2. Sounds like you're on your way. Ask any and all questions and I hope other members will jump in. Regarding the badges, they're pretty indestructible. I have one on my desk right now. They're thick solid brass with recessed lettering, filled with dark red enamel. Depending on how rough yours are, put a piece of fine wet-or-dry sandpaper on a perfectly flat surface (glass is good). You might start with #600, wet. Rub the badge back and forth on the wet sandpaper until the scratches and old lacquer are off, then repeat with progressively finer sandpaper. For example, here's an assortment of sandpapers #400 - 3000: https://www.amazon.com/Sandpaper-Furniture-Finishing-Automotive-Polishing/dp/B01MYGPNFJ/ref=asc_df_B01LZ6TG05/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198089370656&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2638482431878040805&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003579&hvtargid=pla-382849354049&th=1 If your sanding surface is perfectly flat the red paint should remain intact. If the paint needs to be touched up you can get a tiny bottle of Testors enamel in a hobby shop. Once the sanding and polishing is complete, some restorers spray the badges with lacquer. Others dip the badges into a 50/50 solution of polyurethane and paint thinner. I prefer the method suggested by CSP Moderator Gene's grandmother: Rub a little olive on them. You may have to reapply the oil every couple of years but you don't have to worry about tarnish forming under lacquer. As for the cloth, first try giving them a thorough vacuuming and brushing.
  3. Hi cb I'll try to address your last 3 posts. I'm not a Facebook user so I don't know about tagging but whatever you did, those little boxes do bring up info about the user. Chris's rebuilds are excellent. I just spoke to Roy and he expressed admiration for Chris's work. The fact that the HiVi is back-wired isn't a problem. They can be converted to front-wired by drilling 2 little holes and adding 2 wires. But as I mentioned, I believe your speakers may have been back-wired originally. It looks to me as though the mids were drilled and wired as I described and one tweeter was as well. It is very easy to back-wire. I can go into that if you wish. That damage doesn't look all that bad. Where are you located? There may be other options. As you know, re-veneering is expensive and won't look original. Some AR-5s used the light color linen that is available online. I'm not familiar with your brown cloth but maybe consulting a dry cleaner makes sense. Or you might try to brush off as much as possible, vacuum, then use some spray-on upholstery cleaner. The risk is shrinkage but if you do it on the frame it could work. Repro badges? Why? Were the originals missing? If they are just discolored they can be polished up very easily. Yes--the HiVi tweeter is 6 Ohms. I spoke to Roy (he's the one who came up with this mod) and he said it will work fine in the 3a, 2ax and 5. Just be sure to use the coil as I described previously. Use the .05, not .07: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-005mh-18-awg-perfect-layer-inductor-crossover-coil--257-798 So. I think I answered your questions. If you are anywhere near northern NJ I'd be happy to take a look at them but if not we can help here. My suggestion is to go with the HiVi tweeters and no cabinet work. That will allow you to get the speakers up and running for about 50 bux and you can see if you love them. You may then decide to go all out and get Chris to rebuild your original tweeters. You can sell the HiVis here or on ebay and probably get half the expense back. Glenn (GD70) is an expert at repairing cabinets. If you have the time and inclination you may be able to fix that corner yourself. Basically, you get into the seam and dig out all the loose and swollen particles. Then put glue in the joint and clamp it tightly with bar clamps (I can go into more detail). When it's all dry you scrape off any oozed-out glue and sand the cabinets VERY lightly, avoiding edges where you could go through the veneer. Then there are various ways to refinish but what I usually do is go over all of the wood with walnut color Howard Restore-a-Finish to even out the color. Wipe that dry and wait a day, then wipe on Watco Danish Oil, either natural or walnut. The original finish was boiled linseed oil, so you could use that instead of the Watco. Kent
  4. OK, here's the word from Roy: The HiVi tweeter is 6 ohms and should work fine. Roy only rebuilds the 4 ohm tweeters at this point, so if Chris can rebuild yours he's the only game in town. So first check your tweeters out of circuit. If they are dead or very weak either go with Chris's rebuilds or the HiVis. If you do go with the HiVi tweeters you shouldn't toss the old ones. Either hold onto them for possible future rebuild or sell them on ebay (revealing their condition of course). You'll get plenty of help here. Kent
  5. A few more random thoughts: If you buy anything from Parts Express, get some of this foam gasketing tape. It works well and allows you to remove the drivers easily https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-3-8-x-50-ft-roll--260-540 If you go the Hi-Vi route, they're $18.77 ea at PE. The 0.05mH inductor is $1.98. Another good source is Madisound. They sell the tweeter for $18.80 and the inductor for 2.30 but they don't seem to sell the gasket tape. The HiVi mod is easy. Just glue the inductor to the back of the tweeter. You can add a spacer (something non-magnetic like wood or even cardboard). The 2 leads from the inductor go to the tweeter's terminals ("wired in parallel"). The tweeter in this photo has been modified for front-wiring. Small holes drilled so those red and black wires pass through the face plate (the holes must be sealed to make the installation air-tight).
  6. Hey cb. I don't know what the little "at" sign does. Suspect it's a tweetie thing. But in that other thread you put @RoyC in a little blue box. Hover over the box and you'll see some info, including "Message". But it's summer and most people are busy with other things. I did email Roy so I'm sure he'll respond when he can and the best advice I can give is to WAIT until you hear from him. The 5s are very special speakers. Yes. Those are the Euro versions. Very nice. But I don't know what's going on with the wiring on your mids and tweets. Looks like the right tweeter was originally front wired but the left one was converted from back-wired to front. Others here may have a better handle on that. I'd suggest you carefully remove that tweeter on the left. You can de-solder from that oval piece below it. Be careful prying the tweeter loose from the goo sealant. You will probably find lugs on the back. In any case, try hooking up just the tweeter to a music source at low volume and see if it works. At some point you could post photos of the cabinet damage. It may be a DIY repair. Member Glenn has done really amazing work fixing damaged veneer and may be able to guide you. Hang in there. Kent
  7. PS Just re-read your original post. I'd suggest checking the tweeters alone, isolated from the crossover and pots before deciding they're dead. Also, be sure to download the 3a restoration guide. Much of it is relevant to the 5 http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library/acoustic_research/original_models_1954-1974/original_models_schematicss/restoring_the_ar-3a/
  8. Welcome to CSP Yes--those are the ones, but let's slow down a bit. Here are some thoughts: Vintage AR is a reputable ebay seller. I purchased some things from him when I was getting started with this hobby. But bear in mind, it's a business and he needs to make a profit. The tweeter he sells for $69 can be easily put together or about $20 or so each. RickB sent a link to the tweeters, the coils are here: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-005mh-18-awg-perfect-layer-inductor-crossover-coil--257-798 You can find lots of info about the HiVi mod by googling hivi tweeter inductor site: classicspeakerpages.net I'm not 100% sure the HiVi mod will work as well in the AR-5 as it does in the AR-3a. The 5 is 8 Ohms, the 3a is 4 Ohms. You may have to use a different inductor. Member RoyC is really the expert on this so maybe ask him. Why would you go through the work and expense to install the HiVis as a temporary fix while waiting for Chris to rebuild the originals? Delayed gratification is a virtue 😉 And speaking of RoyC, he's the "inventor" of the HiVi mod and has researched this extensively. But he also rebuilds tweeters. A lot of the stuff sold by Vintage AR is Roy's work. Why not PM him and ask if he would rebuild your originals? He recently rebuilt some AR-3a tweeters for me and they are excellent. They're shown in this write-up: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?/topic/10638-another-ar-3a-restoration/ Let us know how you make out, and please post some pictures (resize to about 100Kb or so). -Kent
  9. Well, it sure looks crummy. The good news is KLH used to put "tic tac toe" patterns on some woofers, presumably to add mass (or maybe to stiffen) so that repai may not affect the sound. OTOH, the right way to fix tears is from the back with white glue and coffee filter paper. Maybe you could use this as a bargaining chip to lower the price. Are you just hoarding? I dunno. Depends on whether you will listen to them and enjoy them, or just "have" them. As I've said many times, they're nice speakers. If you liked the Fives these have more tonal control and will go a bit deeper.
  10. Yes, I suppose you're right. I have friends who happen to have impeccable taste in interior decorating, who have a pair of big Tannoys in their not-huge NYC apartment. Not sure of the model but they look a bit like the Orbitus. About as big as the Twelves. And they have a pair of MicroStatic tweeters on top! So if you have the room yes--the Twelves will blend into the decor (especially MCM) better than many floor standers. That's why my 91s are in the work room 😉 As far as "informal language" my favorite is the Twenty Plus ad. Another MCM beauty, the ad says "the Plus is cosmetics, pure and simple. That's not unusual in our business, though perhaps telling you about it is." Gotta love truth in advertising!
  11. Jay That close-up seems to show the fabric so my guess is there is no foreign sealant on there. The sealant sold by Vintage AR was cooked up by RoyC and is the ONLY sealant that should be used. Brush on one thin coat. btw, I just looked at the Vintage AR ad it it says "This is only available in clear. The clear will reactivate the black color if the original was black". So there you have further verification that some surrounds had black sealant. Sorry for the temporary monkey wrench I threw in the works. Kent
  12. Well, as you know I happen to like the Twelves. And what you say about materials and finish is correct. But I hear a lot of people (both men AND women, so maybe WAF is unfair) that they have nice Bose (or other mini) speakers and they sound "great." Many people either don't have room for big speakers or, more commonly IMHO, don't want to see them. Recently I was showing a visitor my workroom where, besides too many KLH radios I have a pair of AR-91s. He made the comment about his little speakers sounding "just as good" so I had to demonstrate the 91s. He was flabbergasted. Now every time I see him he says "I can't believe how good those speakers sound!" The Twelves should have the same impact. One very cool thing is the contour boxes, which can be hidden out of sight using the Velcro on the back of the speakers but which can also be used with long wires to fine-tune the sound from the listening position. Great speakers. -Kent
  13. Sorry. I was typing while you were. Check edited reply
  14. The color looks normal to me. Hard to make out the texture though. The original butyl rubber coating left the weave of the fabric visible. It looks like yours "may" be smooth (?). In that case I'd suspect something like caulk may have been added. (that would be bad). Here are pics of 2 different Twenties I've worked on. Nice speakers. Remember to use an amp rated for 4 Ohms. btw, I put 5-way binding posts on both pair. _kent
  15. Hey 'cat I like the Twelves but never had a chance to do an A/B comparison with the AR-3a's. They're big, so you need to have room for them. And yes--the woofers are definitely different from the Fives but they do come up on ebay from time to time. The Twelves have such low WAF and are usually so cheap people part them out, I bought mine for $100 with a KLH Eighteen thrown in but alas had no room for them and ended up selling them. If the price is right (and it usually is) these are great speakers. Good luck and keep us posted. -Kent
  • Create New...