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About JKent

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  • Birthday July 14

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  1. Mystery KLH speakers

    Welcome Myxzee! I'm not familiar with those particular KLH drivers but I suspect they are post-classic, maybe from the 80s. That's just based on the dust caps. Interestingly, the cones resemble Cizek Ones, with the damping ring. I think a "generic" surround may work, as long as all the measurements are correct. Our friend John at M-Sound is no longer in business unfortunately but I've heard good things about Rick Cobb. I believe his ebay store is looneytune2001. Other CSP members may know of other good suppliers who will take the time to find the corrrect size. I recommend cutting the dust caps off, shimming, and replacing the caps. The "test tone" method is fallible and besides, you don't want that KLH logo on there. I also recommend the white glue--either the stuff supplied with foams or Aleene's Tacky glue. The other kind, like contact cement, is messy and unforgiving. Another option would be to send them to Bill LeGall of Millersound. He'll do the job right. I "was" going to suggest searching for original Cizek woofers but they're scarcer than hen's teeth and absurdly expensive. Good luck. Keep us posted. Kent
  2. AR 4x crossover, my first try

    Don't know what kind of white foam came with the woofers. If it's smashed flat (common on KLH drivers) it's no good. Like Roger, I like the foam gasket tape PE sells but you could also use foam weatherstripping from a hardware store. The electrical putty will work very well. It's the same stuff that Vintage AR repackages and sells at a markup. -Kent
  3. Middletown NY. That's about 25 miles from here. I'm tempted to go have a look......... Wonder why the tale about Tower records and only 4 being made by AR. They do look nice. He should have posted more than 4 pics when he's asking so much money.
  4. AR 4XA tweeter control issue

    John, To attach photos you can drag them to the area next to the paper clip in the Reply box or click on "choose files" and select them from your hard drive. Optimal size is probably about 6 to 8" wide and about 100KB or so. Here are your photos. I also noticed "jpg" file extension seemed to work better than "jpeg"
  5. AR 4x crossover, my first try

    I had forgotten about that. Great suggestion!
  6. AR 4x crossover, my first try

    Wires should be the same gauge: 18 ga tinned wire. Pretty ordinary. Marine wire works well. Very gentlemanly of you to ask about financial support. Years ago there was a "contribute" button but it didn't work! The site is owned by Mark Spencer, who pays for it himself out of a love for these old speakers. Once in a while you may see an ad for "Arsenal" pop up, and I believe that's his business but he really doesn't make the ads intrusive. Keep us posted on your progress! -Kent
  7. AR 4XA tweeter control issue

    That IS helpful. The good news: The sealant on the woofers is the correct stuff (made by our own RoyC). You'd be surprised what some people put on there! The caps have been replaced with very good quality caps. So I think the only culprit is the pots, even though the seller says they were thoroughly cleaned. Have you contacted the seller to ask about this? Also, could you maybe explain what you mean when you say it "crumbles" and sounds like the speaker is "playing within itself"? Be sure to try the back & forth thing I suggested. Maybe other members have some thoughts? -Kent
  8. AR 4XA tweeter control issue

    Hi John Welcome to the CSP! Your problem is with the potentiometers, or "pots", which are notorious for becoming corroded and not working. The 4xa speakers are from the same era as the 3a. If you download the 3a restoration guide you will find valuable information about the control pots. The easiest fix is to replace them with L-pads, available from Parts Express. While you're in there you should replace the capacitors so order those as well. PE also has nice foam gasket tape for re-installing the woofer. The 3a booklet will also guide you in removing the woofer, protective paper (Kimpac) and fiberglass stuffing. CSP member ra.ra. is quite knowledgeable about this model and will probably chime in. I restored one pair but I don't have an accurate record of the crossover caps. The 4-x used a 20uF cap but the 4-xa used a different value--10uF IIRC (but see what ra says). The 4-xa was/is an excellent speaker and well worth restoring. A possible "quick fix": Rotate the control fully clockwise and counterclockwise several (many) times. The idea is to try to scrape off some of the corrosion. Then listen to music while rotating the control and you "may" find a good spot. This is just a quick and dirty temporary fix and not the permanent solution. -Kent Here are the L-pads: http://www.parts-express.com/speaker-l-pad-attenuator-15w-mono-3-8-shaft-8-ohm--260-248 Here is the speaker gasket: http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-3-8-x-50-ft-roll--260-540 Here are 10uF caps: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-10-10uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-428 or these http://www.parts-express.com/sprague-441p-220-ac-@-60-hz-10uf-capacitor--029-104
  9. AR6 freshening up

    I haven't worked on the AR-6 but according to this post early ones had a 10uF cap while later ones had a 10uF and a 24uF Asking "what brand" is opening up controversy but you want something that will last, so use film caps. They can be Dayton or Solen brand, sold by PE as AR-Pro suggested or go to Madisound and look at Carli and Surplus caps, or try Erseaudio and check out their PEX or Pulse X. Most of us here agree that more expensive does not mean "better" and any of these will do well. In fact, I believe it was Roy who noted that mylar film caps like the Carlis have an ESR closer to the originals and are therefore more authentic as well as being cheaper. David makes good points concerning PE. Their foam gasket strip is excellent and they have cheap L-pads that are very good replacements for the troublesome pots (be sure to consult the AR-3a restoration booklet in our Library regarding pots). Kent
  10. AR 4x crossover, my first try

    I think that's too thick/stiff. I like the lens cleaners--something thin but with reinforcing fibers. After you apply the patch (Aleene's Tacky Glue works best) you can thin the glue with water and paint it on the patch to make it stronger. You could also use a black marker to blacken the patch. Kent
  11. KLH Model 6 Oil Caps?

    Welcome Rusty You might want to contact RoyC for some of his authentic sealer. -Kent
  12. AR 4x crossover, my first try

    Normally, when removing a dust cap you would slice around it, as you did, but with an X-Acto knife held at a low angle and cutting close to that flange. Then when installing a new DC you go a tad bigger to cover the the old remains. That hole may have a lot to do with the bad sound but also push down on the cone and see if there is any scraping in the voice coil. If there's no scraping you "could" try to repair the hole, if only for practice. You can glue a patch on there, using Aleene's Tacky Glue (best) or white Elmer's glue (will also work). For the patch, I like the reinforced paper lens wipes used for glasses or cameras but other paper will work. I think some guys use paper towel. Tear the piece instead of cutting to leave a ragged edge. You can then test the repair without a dust cap and if it's good you'll need one porous dust cap of whatever size you can fit on there. You'll probably have to cut the old cap down flush with the flange and glue the new dc down centered, with some of the off-center old flange showing. Before installing the new dc use a vacuum to suck out any dust or dirt that may have gotten lodged in the vc. Best bet is to get a used AR-4x woofer on ebay but you could get lucky with this one and practice some speaker-repair skills at the same time. Kent
  13. AR 4x crossover, my first try

    Welcome Rob Where to begin...... If your woofers have cloth surrounds they should not need to be re-foamed and certainly not re-coned. But that off-center oversized dust cap is something to think about. It may be that whoever worked on that just used the wrong dust cap and didn't know how to install it (OTOH that person should not have been working on speakers). Does that woofer have a cloth surround? From the photo it looks more like a foam-surround cone but I'm not sure. You could probably get someone (Roy maybe, or Bill LeGall) to repair that. The AlNiCo drivers are desirable. The phenolic ring tweeters are NOT an improvement. They're "OK" if the originals are shot but the originals are superior, The 2 things that will hurt the sound are the capacitors and the potentiometers, although neither of those affect the woofer. The caps should be replaced with any of the ones ra.ra. recommended and the pots "may" be able to be cleaned or you can replace them with L-pads (see the AR-3a restoration booklet for more on pots and L-pads). I would suggest you slow down, get help here and try to preserve and restore as much of the originals as possible. They are excellent speakers and well worth the effort. -Kent PS: Just re-read your post. Both woofers have cloth surrounds and it seems the bad one may have VC scraping. I don't know if Roy would be willing to tackle it. Bill LeGall at Millersound could fix it. If you decide to replace it be sure that the one you buy looks like your good woofer. As has been mentioned, AR used several different 8" woofers in the 4x and you do want a matching pair.
  14. KLH Model Ten