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AR surround

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  1. I wouldn't put it ON the glue, just close enough to get some softening. This will drive you crazy, David, but what I did was simply pry the things off with an chiseling blade in an X-acto knife. If it took off a tad of the board with it, then so be it.
  2. Or perhaps using a soldering gun...i.e. Weller 140 W...and prying up the caps a little bit at at time.
  3. +2 for doing it in place. And don't forget to use best practices for soldering electronics such as using heat sinks, flux (not acid), tinning, etc.
  4. Must be fun keeping track of them!!! 😉 Neat video, Frank.
  5. So PK, how do you like the sound of your AR9's? (Chatter on the forum has been a bit thin lately on the AR verticals. So I'd like to hear something about them.) It's been 18+ months since you posted on this topic and I assume you did the recapping and have been listening to the speakers. Did you ultimately go with the bypass caps?
  6. I was not aware that you had the B&W's. "I personally felt that the AR9 was a superior loudspeaker overall." If there was ever a statement that tells me just how good the AR9 was/is, it's that one. Regarding your statement, "There is likely more reduction in your hearing acuity in the intervening ten years than reduction in output fidelity in the AR9s..." Geez, the truth hurts!
  7. Yes, you might have to deal with that situation although I'm quite happy with my current rig.
  8. Lakecat: It's really great that you are able to feed your LST beasts with the power they need using the big Mac amp...as well as installing them at the correct height. I thought Frank's setup was wild with two pairs of stacked LST's, but then I learned of a fellow forum member who has 10 of them double stacked in a 5.1 system. One day I would like to indulge in a pair of LST's but I simply don't have a place for them.
  9. I bought my AR9's new from Sam Goody's in August 1978. The list price, and their price, was $1300. I haggled them down to $1200 + tax. That works out to $4596 + tax in February 2019 dollars. A bloody steal! The speakers went up in steeply in price after that.
  10. Geoff, My two cents: I'm using an AV receiver (Lexicon RV8) circa 2006 that is rated down to 2 ohms and capable of outputting its full rated power per channel with all channels driven. The thing is a beast and then some. You can probably get away with using the AR90's as fronts and some smaller 8 ohm jobs for the center and surrounds if you have a receiver that will handle 4 ohms for the fronts with all channels driven. (AR55 mentioned the mid-level Yamaha.) However, you will notice compression as the output of many AVRs is substantially curtailed with all channels driven when you've got power hungry beasts like the AR90's in the equation. Piggybacking on what Aadams said: One thing I successfully did before getting the Lexicon receiver was to use the AVR to power 6 to 8 ohm centers and the surrounds but had a separate power amp for the AR9's which are my front speakers. You might find a nice vintage Yamaha power amp in the secondary market that will handle the AR90's very nicely.
  11. I have the AR9s, 90s and 91s. Each is an upgrade over the other. I would recommend going for the AR90's, but you might want to consider replacing those yellow mylar caps in the AR90 tweeter series circuit. They make the tweeter sound like (to quote DavidR) a "chuh" instead of a "shhhhhhhhh." As for the WAF approval factor, show her a photo of the 90s next to the 9s and tell her a white lie that you could have had either but selected the 90s over the 9s.
  12. I just love the line, "...or trumpets some dead-end digital codec." MQA appears to be the latest of the lot that may also be destined for extinction.
  13. Thanks Kent. Happy Holidays to you and all the others on this board as well. I love your AR ornament. Does it include new capacitors? LOL John
  14. Glad to hear that you are pleased. Couple of things: - Are you getting any glare / harshness from the UMR? How about noise? Poly caps on the UMR series cap (24uF) were a disaster for me, so I went with Mundorf ECap on that one. - I used Dayton F&F bypass caps across the poly caps as well as the ECap. Others have used Vishay and others as bypasses. DavidR has some info on these. The F&F bypass across the NPE's took out the last bit of grunge from the sound.
  15. I'm still very happy with the Mundorf ECap with Dayton F&F bypass for the 24uF series circuit on the AR9 and AR90 UMR. However, I did go into the AR90's again this past January to add more series resistance to the tweeter and UMR circuits. Total possible attenuation resistance for tweeter is now 3.1 ohms vs. 5 ohms stock. Total possible attenuation resistance for the UMR is now 3.5 ohms vs. 4 ohms stock. In retrospect, I probably should have just left the attenuation network on the AR90 as stock.
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