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About dxho

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  1. The technical term for that condition is "blown". Quickest solution, likely the cheapest, and probably truest to the original sound is to buy a similar used driver.
  2. I've owned one or more pairs of AR speakers since the mid 80s. My main ones now are AR-3a. Impressions? I'm not necessarily attached to a brand, but I am to a sound. And AR is the closest I've gotten to it within reasonable means.
  3. Pictures would be useful in determining if they might be saved.
  4. The back plate can be sealed with your favorite sealing material and screwed back down to make it tight as well as removable (I think! I haven't worked on a Five). I would probably replace the foam rings on the mids and tweeters- cheap insurance to get that good seal.
  5. I'll play... Give the foam surrounds a go. They should last longer than 12 years and get you back or close to the original sound. Cloth surrounds or non-original drivers probably won't.
  6. This one seemed appropriate :-)
  7. Oh good, the table is filling a purpose :-) There are some reasons the driver interchange isn't more detailed: re: tweeters in question: I've only been able to determine two types (aside from the very late Model Seventeen), and they all appear directly interchangeable in performance. KLH is no help at all, as they didn't stamp part numbers on them. There are no new equivalents, as far as I'm aware. Some of the regulars here, such as J Kent or RoyC, might have more information about that. I don't have the equipment to test all the parameters of the old drivers, or the ambition to dig through the literally hundreds of possible candidates. The good news is that used drivers are plentiful. I don't or haven't owned all the models involved. I'm lazy. I originally compiled the AR and KLH lists because the ones I found here were inaccurate and incomplete.
  8. I wonder if fumigation would work- fill a large enough box with the appropriate gas and let it work. Or ozone blasting. I've used this generator on a car interior. Ozone in industrial quantities can kill surface mold, but a speaker cone is pretty thin. I already have the generator. I'd give it a try.
  9. Bump for the update.
  10. The 'early' Model Six had epoxied drivers (or glued in tweeters); definitely not the same style you have. Apologies for the confusion. Aside from that, it looks like I need to clarify tweeter sizes and interchangeability.
  11. Assuming voice coil/cone kits are available for this driver, you should be able to repair it/them. I just reconed some HPM 900s. They have a notoriously fragile graphite cone enclosed by notorious dissolving surrounds. It was not a difficult job- it's just a lot of fiddly steps. (Replacement factory parts are unavailable, and used ones are pretty rare and pricey). The question in my mind would be cost of parts and labor vs finding used OEM drivers. Additionally, new parts may not match original sound. That's true for the AR 12" woofer, for instance.
  12. It is possible to prolong a pot's life by replacing the center disc with a brass washer and screw/nut, such as Brass Center Hole Round Disc - 14mm.
  13. One way to compare various surrounds is to check their measurements. If both fit the Heritage, they should be the same basic size (slight variations exist). In general, you probably want a surround with the biggest fillet, to allow for maximum cone movement. In practice, it may not matter a whole lot. Best way to match original sound if you can't get rid of the scratching is to buy a used driver. Sometimes it's possible to turn the woofers 180° from original position and clear up the sound. The spiders can sag.
  14. I'd work backwards through the audio chain from the tweeter, using, say, a tone from a computer or headphone output from a portable radio until I stopped getting sound.