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About genek

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  • Birthday 07/31/1953

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  1. BLO wood finishes do have a drier in them. They're a mix of raw linseed oil, "stand oil," which is superheated (not actually "boiled") linseed oil, and a drier. I would do the mineral spirits wipe down with a non metallic wood finishing pad (Scotch Brite grey) prior to sanding. The pads are roughly the equivalent of 400 grit sandpaper and remove excess surface finish without gumming up the way sandpaper would. Then you can switch to coarser paper if you still think you need it. And whatever finish you use, watch how you dispose of your rags. BLO is one of the most prone to spontaneous ignition, but all oil-based finishes have the potential.
  2. Unfamiliar AR cabinet finish

    Yes. Would have been nice if whoever stained it had done something about the scratches first, though.
  3. Unfamiliar AR cabinet finish

    That birch option was unstained, not unfinished. It would have come with a clear lacquer finish on it. Though someone could, for some insane reason, have decided to sand it off and stain it.
  4. Unfamiliar AR cabinet finish

    The grain on these look like pine to me, but unusually clear compared to what we typically see on unfinished pine AR cabinets. Compare to this: The drips on the backs and the scratches on the tops that are darker than the surrounding wood indicate a non-factory stain that was applied after the wood was scratched.
  5. Restoring finish on AR3

    First, you need to decide if you want to restore or refinish. If it's restore, there's only one correct process, and that's to clean up the wood as best you can, including filling and sanding if needed, and then apply boiled linseed oil to the wood. That's the original finish. If it's refinish, then your options are endless, and all of the approaches Kent has described are good ones. It just depends on your preferences as to color and surface sheen.
  6. AR5 speaker question

    Looks to me like the front plate of a 9 series tweeter bolted on top of an original front wired tweeter. Notice how the plate seems to be "floating" over the front baffle rather than being set into it.
  7. Another Amp for AR 3's

    If you guys are going to keep going after each other, this thread may well end up being banished to the Kitchen.
  8. Many 3a's like this one?

    The thing about Howard's is that it doesn't remove old finish the way a stripper or refinisher would. So it's not so much whether a new finish is compatible with the Howard's as it is whether it's compatible with whatever the old finish was. If old speakers just have the original BSO, then putting a new finish on after Howard's shouldn't be a problem, but if someone has come along in the past and put something else on all bets are off. That's probably why they recommend against using it as a prefinish treatment.
  9. The vast majority of solid state amps should not be run without a speaker load on them.
  10. AR-LST

    I lean toward the automotive done with a spray gun, but there are some that come in aerosol cans if your project isn't too big.
  11. AR-LST

    I think maybe we need to get some guys here a room? From the photos, it appears that the finish was a satin, rather than a matte or gloss. It would almost certainly have been sprayed. Don't even think about trying to get this with a brush-on finish. You might be able to do it with a wipe-on, but it would require multiple coats with abrasive rubbings in between each.
  12. Unlikely that there's no heat, unless you're consuming so little power that the mass of the chassis is enough to dissipate it. If so, you'd have to open the case and actually touch the heat sinks to notice anything. My main system is an older Sherwood 5.1 pre and separate power amp. Rated 170wpc down to 2 ohms, at normal volumes I can feel a bit of warmth in the case but nothing comes out of the vents. I think the front panel lights may actually generate more heat than the amp stages.
  13. More detailed charts of comparative dB levels: Speaker efficiency charts generally use 80-85db as an SPL. As you can see from the chart, that's pretty damned loud.
  14. AR3a Tweeters

    Once you make the crossover mods, the primary difference between the HiVi and a good functioning original AR-3a tweeter is that the HiVi is a tad bit "beamy" by comparison and the soundstage will be narrower. If you spend most of your listening time in one place and don't get up and walk around the room a lot, you'll probably never notice it.
  15. I had a Harman Kardon 45W amp in my home office/workshop that I used when I was rebuilding my 3a's that work ok with them. But my listening levels were not excessive and the room was only 10' square.