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About genek

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  1. Ideally, the best repair would be to cut in a new piece of veneer, but that is probably beyond most hobbyists. For a filler-based corner rebuild on an otherwise good condition cabinet, I would use an epoxy stick filler in a shade slightly lighter than the surrounding wood (Famowood is great for filling gaps anywhere except right at the point of a corner). With care, it's possible to shape the filler with cards and a blade while it's partially cured and avoid sanding. Then use touch up markers to match the color and recreate grain. Kent's post has the link to my preferred epoxy filler sticks. Here's a link to the markers I use: https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/markers/brush-tip-markers/
  2. These videos always sound like earbuds to me. Curious, isn't it...?
  3. My guess is that anyone who has the components has tried it at least once. :)
  4. You're thinking about the AR-2, which had a pair of cross-fired cone tweeters, and the AR-2a, which added a dome supertweeter and moved the cross-fired cone tweeters to the position later occupied by the single front-fired midrange. Both of these needed to be placed horizontally, but the AR-2ax can be used either vertically or horizontally.
  5. If you see yourself ever wanting to sell these, a not original finish will reduce the value. Padding lacquer goes on a lot like Watco. Get some and try it on some scrap wood to see if it's a viable alternative.
  6. Well, if it works for you.
  7. The Mohawk sticks have been my go-to for repairs to oil-finished wood for years. Work it into cracks, shave it level and in many cases no sanding is needed. Just grain it, wipe on a bit of flat lacquer with a Q tip and you're done.
  8. Here's what the folks at Howard Products say about finishing over Restor-a-Finish: "Do not use polyurethane over Restor-A-Finish. Keep in mind that the purpose of Restor-A-Finish is to restore an existing finish." You may get away with not following the manufacturer's instructions, but there is a reason why they say that and I would hate to find out what it is on something that was important to me.
  9. Oil based stains can interfere with wood's ability to absorb penetrating finishes. Watco is an oil varnish blend. It may work fine or it may blotch, depends on what stain you use. On new work, it's easy enough to just test a piece of scrap wood, but you're not going to have that option. If you use an oil stain, you should follow it with a sealer and then a varnish or lacquer finish.
  10. No on the Restore a Finish. There is no finish left to restore. Sand the surfaces and glue down loose pieces. If the first sanding gets out the spots, fill and then sand again until you get a uniformly smooth surface. If there are still spots after the first sanding, bleach them out first and then fill. Use a stainable wood filler rather than epoxy (I like Famowood, which is made from wood dust and can be gotten in a nominally realistic walnut shade). Epoxy is great if you need to rebuild crushed corners, but you probably don't need to do that here. Remember that epoxy wood filler does not absorb stains or penetrating finishes, and is best used to repair finished surfaces where the repair will be spot finished with a varnish or lacquer touch-up. Replace or add color with an NGR dye stain. You'll probably get best results if you make it a bit darker than original. Important: if you intend to use a penetrating finish (oil or oil/varnish blends like "Danish oil"), Do NOT use an oil based stain. Apply a new, REAL finish. For wood that has been filled, a coating will probably be better than a penetrating finish.
  11. I would start by trying a bit of polishing compound on an area of the shell covered by the cushions. It's possible that the finish doesn't go all the way through and might actually be some kind of gelcoat that was sprayed into the molds the way it's done with fiberglass.
  12. These are way beyond anything you can fix with any Howard's product. And just sanding will be unlikely to produce an even appearance. You may need to bleach the top and then stain to put color back in. If you don't have previous finishing experience, these are too expensive to learn on and you should probably remove the drivers and take the cabinets to a professional furniture refinisher.
  13. Is the original surface a coating? Or is that the natural color of the plastic?
  14. Your best bet is probably to check the completed listings on eBay to see what similar items have sold for.
  15. I would be concerned about stability, since those casters are moving the floor contact points inboard 1-2 inches on each side.
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