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About genek

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  1. They're not mutually exclusive, except in cases where some manufacturer is still offering "non modern" products for sale.
  2. The original question specified "devices in today's audio market."
  3. Introducing the Bosar 903a tower speaker...

    Considering that the Bose doesn't have much in the way of vertical dispersion, it should probably be closer to listener height, in between the two ARs.
  4. Probably because it just didn't show up when I googled "3 way acoustic suspension speaker." Would it be enough just to use the subwoofer's low-pass, or would you want an external crossover that rolls off the lows on the satellites as well?
  5. Bought one pine early AR3a.....

    The AR pine cabinets were definitely not decorative (i.e., "Cabinet Grade") plywood; if they had been, their outer plies would have been sawn rather than knife-cut and the grain would have been straighter, as it is in solid wood. However, I've never seen one that had visible knots or places where holes had been repaired with patched-in wood, so I'd guess that in today's grading system they'd be classified as "A-Grade Veneer Core Construction."
  6. Bought one pine early AR3a.....

    Every layer in plywood is veneer, a thin sheet of wood made by sawing or knife-cutting a log. Layers of veneer become plies when they're made into a layered product. If you ever try to make your own plywood (I did this once as part of a class on wood product manufacturing and I don't recommend trying it at home - ever), you can't call a supplier and order wood in "plies," it's all veneer, and is sold as either "face" or "back" grade. "Back" grade veneer is what becomes the inner plies in finish grade plywood and all the plies in non-finish or construction grades, and of course, "face" grade is the prettier stuff that goes on the outside of cabinet and furniture grades. https://www.statesind.com/page/hardwood-plywood-terms https://www.statesind.com/page/veneer-grading The most effective bleaching agent for wood is sodium hydroxide (NaOH). It's nasty, caustic stuff that comes as a two-part product, you need to glove and mask up to mix and use it and after you've bleached the wood you have to neutralize the residue in the fibers with a mild acid like white vinegar, but it will definitely suck the color out of any wood it's used on. Thanks to their status as rare collectibles, the preferred "finish" of a pine AR is probably as close as you can get to completely unfinished wood. It's definitely a total flip on how woodworkers usually look at pine!
  7. The original question assumed that someone wanted "acoustic suspension sound" and was tired of trying to keep old speakers alive. So the "modern components" being referred to are whole speakers that can be bought today and somehow combined and/or manipulated into producing AR-like sound (either Classic or post-Classic, since no particular AR era was specified). We already have plenty of other discussions about suitable replacement drivers, and there's already an old discussion somewhere about how a new speaker could be built from scratch with new parts that could be revived if anyone is interested, but that would be at least as much work as trying to keep an old speaker alive. So let's not confuse this one.
  8. Bought one pine early AR3a.....

    Use wood filler (make sure it's not the water based kind). Thin it with solvent until it's like heavy cream,brush it on and then wipe across the grain. Light sand after it dries.
  9. No. I went looking for a 3-way acoustic suspension speaker one could add a 12" subwoofer to, and that Yamaha bookshelf box seems to be the only one there is.
  10. Bought one pine early AR3a.....

    The veneer in non-finish grade plywood is rotary cut for economy. This produces the big swirls on the side panel and parallel micro cracks when the curl in the veneer is flattened. The cracks wouldn't normally be visible in unfinished, painted or clear finished plywood, but stain brings them out. If you can actually feel the cracks, you may be able to lighten them a bit more with a stronger bleach and then fill them with a grain/pore filler tinted to match the surrounding wood.
  11. I have no idea how any of this stuff would sound. I'm just browsing product specs and trying to play the "how would you" game.
  12. Bought one pine early AR3a.....

    The aging and refinishing processes are all on the surface and will work for veneer, though after all the stripping you may not have much tannin left in the wood to work with chemically. As far as the stripping goes, you're already doing everything you can. There's no magic bullet for getting stain out of soft wood.
  13. And if what you want is something AR-3-ish, can live with bass-reflex rather than acoustic suspension, have $15,000 to spare and can wait for them to be shipped to you from overseas, there's this: https://europe.yamaha.com/en/products/contents/audio_visual/ns-5000/index.html
  14. For someone wanting to recreate a 4-way, this might be of interest: https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/speaker_systems/ns-6490/index.html But I wonder, would you need two 12" subwoofers for each, or would one each be enough?
  15. Bought one pine early AR3a.....

    Pine being a soft, porous wood, there's a good chance that some of the stain goes all the way down through the veneer. If that's the case, my suggestion, assuming you can get all the surfaces to a state similar to the top and not the side, is to "antique" the pine. Restaining will probably not produce any better results than what you started out with, while antiquing will help even the finish without "blotching" the color, a common problem when staining pine. Here are some antiquing processes: http://www.crosskeysantiques.com/Trade_tips/How_to_age_pine.htm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYH083c8dEw