• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

1 Follower

About genek

  • Rank
    Forum Moderator/Admin/Whatever
  • Birthday 07/31/1953

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Portland, Oregon

Recent Profile Visitors

26,904 profile views
  1. A hot melt glue gun is your best friend here.
  2. The 3a crosses from woofer to mid at 525 Hz.
  3. I have 3a's and 2ax's. Can't say that I notice any difference in soundstage between them.
  4. A hearing evaluation can be an enormous money saver. No point spending on sonic improvements you're not going to be able to hear.
  5. The problem with mineral wool is not that it may off-gas, but that it will absorb moisture from the ambient air and raise the humidity inside the cabinet. There is only a certain amount of outgassing that can occur before the impurities that cause it are fully exhausted, but hygroscopy is a physical characteristic that never goes away.
  6. Fiberglass was the original batting. There was a period during which fiberglass was in short supply and mineral wool was used instead. Mineral wool is made using almost the same process as fiberglass, but the material is more hygroscopic (water absorbant), which made the corrosion of the level control wipers worse than with fiberglass. There have never been any instances of asbestos being found in mineral wool. However, some insulation products were made by combining mineral wool with paper that contained asbestos. So mineral wool in your speakers doesn't have asbestos in it, but if you find mineral wool insulation in your house, get someone in to test it before you handle it. And whether you're working with fiberglass, mineral wool or something else, wear gloves, goggles and a face mask, because all can cause skin, eye and lung irritation. I just go buy those disposable painter's coveralls from Home Depot and suit up anytime I have to stick my hands into a speaker's batting. Because you never know what someone may have stuffed in there.
  7. From what I see, what little is left of retail high end audio still continues to use the business plan of telling your customers how you know so much more about quality sound reproduction than they do.
  8. Midcentury is still going through the transition from niche collectible to trendy fashion statement to bona fide antique. A few years back, the big thing for dealers was stripping the wheat or champagne tinted finishes off Heywood Wakefield pieces from the 50s and turning them into polyurethane coated bleached blonde. Now I see posts on woodworking forums from people looking for instructions for reproducing the original tinted finishes.
  9. Sorry, I thought you meant that bass improved after the recap. Which wouldn't make any sense.
  10. My guess is that your woofer seal might have been leaking before you opened the box up and you fixed that when you closed it up.
  11. The goop on the back probably means the board came loose and someone tried to glue it back from the outside of the cabinet.
  12. Midcentury period had two basic finishes. Light, which was almost always birch, and dark, which was walnut or teak unless you went upmarket to rosewood.
  13. It would be a bottomless pit. You start by cleaning up the cabinets. Then you have to undent the tweeters. Then recap. Then replace the grills and logos. Then the classic X stands are all wrong and you have to hunt for or recreate the black steel cantilever stands. Then you start thinking about Jerry's biamping scheme, and before you know it, you're ordering a new receiver. By the time you're done, those $300 10pi's have cost you $1000. And there's still that $500 pair of 90s, and I wonder what happened with that guy in Longview who had that pair of AR-9's for $600...
  14. On a similar note, in this morning's Portland, OR Craigslist there's a pair of 10pi's listed for $300. Missing grills and logos and both tweeters look dinged in, but foam looks recent and cabs in good shape. With no room for any more speakers, I'll have to let these go by. Unless I see the price go down...
  15. I used to be a test engineer. In technical parlance, this would be what we used to call "failing." Here are some general guides for comparing new amps to old. If the amp rating is continuous power over a frequency at a stated impedance and distortion (i.e., 100WPC, 20-20kHz @ 8 Ohms, 0.01% THD) and it was made after 2000, divide the rated WPC by 2. If the amp rating is "maximum," "average," "dynamic," "peak," "music" or any other power with a gobbledygook name stated only at 1kHz, divide the rated WPC by 4.