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genek

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About genek

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  • Birthday 07/31/1953

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  1. It would be subjective if we were talking about results, but we're not; we're using the original posters' stated intent, that is, whether the goal was to repair/restore or redesign. Or, as in the case of this thread, the original poster's view of the result.
  2. Yes. back then Canal St. was where you went if you wanted things like motors and such, Cortlandt if you wanted electronics. And sometimes you could find the same stuff in both places. After Radio Row was vacated some of the dealers relocated to various places around Manhattan, including Canal, but there was no place that ever recaptured what was lost. A lot of the dealers just went permanently out of business.
  3. A lot of the electronics components on the market in the 1950s was WWII surplus. But the place to shop for it wasn't Canal St, it was Cortlandt. Before NYC tore it down to build the World Trade Center in the 60s, that part of town was known as Radio Row.
  4. The general rule we follow to distinguish between repair/restoration and mods/tweaks/upgrades is whether the goal is to replicate the original sound as closely as possible or to "improve" it.
  5. Can you pull back and show the full surface?
  6. Are the owners sentimentally attached to the towers or to the sound? If that many drivers are gone, it's likely that they haven't actually heard the original sound for years.
  7. It's not going to be necessary to reveneer. At worst, if the stain can't be chemically removed or sanded out it may be necessary to stain the entire cabinet a darker tone than it originally was.
  8. Plain old mineral spirits will remove whatever can be removed. Good chance you'll still need to sand after that, but I'd do that first.
  9. My concern with these is that from the OP description the dark areas are not all veneer but are partly filler. If only excess filler was sanded off, then even after a full sanding the areas of the surface that are still filler will still absorb any new stain unevenly. If I did nothing else, I'd at least apply a prestain conditioner before any stain.
  10. That's a pigmented stain (pigment particles suspended in a carrier), so your first step is to try to remove it.
  11. You need to post some photos. It's impossible to give any advice without seeing the problem.
  12. The original grille frames on my old AR-6s were pine but were only 1/4-3/8" square and wood split where the staples went in. OTOH, most art canvas is framed on 1/2-3/4" pine and the staples hold ok and don't split the wood, so as long as the stock is thick enough pine or poplar should be ok.
  13. Poplar scores 2400 on the Janka scale. White pine is 1900. Basswood and balsa are in the 400s; cherry and walnut are in the 4000s, teak, birch and oak 5000-6000. The whole scale is here: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-hardness-d_559.html
  14. I'd want to use a softwood. Easier to drive staples into without splitting the wood.
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