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About genek

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  • Birthday 07/31/1953

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  1. Yes, you can even out orange peel in lacquer very light mist of thinner. But you'll get pretty much the same result from another light coat of lacquer.
  2. I stopped spraying lacquer a long time ago. Too many things that can go wrong if you don't have a spray booth. If I want glossy I use padding finishes like Qualasole or Lacover.
  3. AR 3 toe in or not?

    No, it's a TT, the original first version.
  4. Major Upgrade to The Classic Speaker Pages Forums

    Took me a while to figure out how to do it in the new control panel, but there is now a link to the library in the forum menu.
  5. AR 3 toe in or not?

    All I can say, what?
  6. Another AR90 restoration thread.

    It's really not possible to completely remove polyurethane from wood. There will always be some of it in the fibers. Once you have used whatever "remover" you find works best and have sanded the wood smooth, refinish it with something like Watco that includes a coating rather than a penetrating-only finish like BLO.
  7. AR 3 toe in or not?

    Toeing in does a great job of completely collapsing the reverberant field that the speakers' dome mids and tweeters are designed to create.
  8. Get yourself some sacrificial lumber and practice, practice, practice before trying it on the real wood. It's a gorgeous finish, but a PITA to do.
  9. Questions on a pair of AR3's.....

    Cabinet grade plywood is usually faced on both sides. It comes in two varieties G1S(one side good, the other of lesser quality) and G2S (two sides good). Panel and counter grade plywoodisfaced one side. But it isn't all that much cheaper than G1S cabinet grade, and most cabinetmakers wouldn't bother to stock it.
  10. AR5 Restoration

    The default balance of classic ARs is much less "forward" than most modern listeners are accustomed to. If you have an eq on your computer or in one of its media apps, select the "Concert" or "Classical" preset to get a visual. This was what the designers believed best reproduced the sound of a concert hall. When AR did its "live vs recorded" demos, they played music recorded in near anechoic conditions and needed "flat" output to produce realistic soundin a real concert hall, so they raised the level controls and increased the treble settings on the amplifiers used. AR's recommendation for obtaining "flat" output - which they believed was undesirable for normal music listening - from the AR-3a and AR-5 can be found here:
  11. AR5 Restoration

    This is where gel stain works well. It doesn't penetrate into grain, just lays on top. Prestain conditioner will keep it from blotching.
  12. AR5 Restoration

    If that's walnut, those right side panels are the weirdest grain pattern I've ever seen. Birch, maybe, if those panels were stained and there's still some stain in the grain that didn't sand out. It just doesn't show any of the small pore patterns I'd expect to see in walnut. At any rate, I would still do the same thing. Restain with a non-penetrating gel to even out the mottling, then top it with a wipe-on varnish or oil/varnish mix. I wouldn't do an oil finish on wood in that condition.
  13. AR5 Restoration

    I'm going to go with pine as my guess, based on the two right face photos. The left faces and the tops like like they could be birch, but birch as the same soft/porous wood issues that pine does, so finishing goes pretty similar. Gel is probably better than penetrating, even with a sealer/conditioner. Use a color a bit lighter than what you would like and apply multiple times until you get the shade you want. One thing about gel is that it does tend to obscure the grain more than penetrating. Depending on how you feel about that grain, this could be good or bad.
  14. AR5 Restoration

    It's hard to tell for sure from the angle, but the long face shown appears to be pine. If these are pine that was previously stained and finished dark, once you have sanded you should apply aprestain sealer before you restain, because unsealed pine can absorb stain unevenly.
  15. AR9 cost

    Inflation calculators are not very useful when applied to electronics, becausedesign and manufacturing methodologies have changed so much over the years. In many cases, today's versions of products actually cost less than their equivalents of a couple of decades ago. Looking at the AR9 and the other models in that series, we can see that most, if not all, of its components were also used in other models. For someone trying to build an AR9 copy today, that volume savings would not exist. Could you come up with a design that gets the same performance using today'soff-the-shelf components? If so, you'd avoid that problem. Producing the same oil-finished walnut cabinetry would definitely be material labor and time expensive. OTOH, if you provide complete plans, there areshops that can turn out CNC machined MDF cabinet panels, assemble them and robotically spray on a helluva nicepiano black or other color finish for quite a bit less money. So the question is, what do you want? Equivalent or better performance, or a museum-quality replica?