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Analogman

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  1. AR9LS Refoam question

    A straight edge And I understood your point; was not saying there was anything wrong or invalid with using shims, and I do, on re-cone jobs But like I said, I don't (just) re-edge drivers with worn out spiders, at least not for others I have been guilty of "patching" a few for myself Craig
  2. AR9LS Refoam question

    I hear what you are saying and agree 100%, and of course there is nothing in this world (involving machines) that is ever the answer 100% of the time Speakers with worn out spiders get a re-cone (with new spider) rather a re-edge on my bench (if it is a job I have to stand behind) The 30 Hz method works beautifully on otherwise healthy drivers only in need of a new outer suspension - I thought that would go without saying Excursion, and outer cone lip at rest height in relationship to the basket flange is easily adjusted on a case by case basis and is perfectly compatible with the test tone alignment protocol - I would have thought that too would have gone without saying Regardless, no matter the method used, if the spider is sagging it's still going to sag whether you used shims or not and the end results is still a patch job - may last a week, may last another 20 years Aside from the fact that the outer suspension's job isn't (should not be relied upon) to establish and maintain the former's relationship to the back plate at rest because as you well know, that's not going to last for long (those DIY re-foamed woofers that "knock" or "tick" when you play them loud! : - ) I don't like having to revisit work anymore than the next guy - I have done many dozens of drivers with the 30 Hz tone technique and to my knowledge not one has yet to fail or suffer any problems (knock on wood : - ) and most definitely none of my personal drivers have I also agree with you that more than a few do-it-yourselfers have hacked up their woofers Craig
  3. AR9LS Refoam question

    Use a 30 Hz test tone while re-edging and forgo the need to cut off dust caps on these fragile old drivers Works well The hole is (may be) for cooling, à la JBL - shine a bright light into them while observing the front of the cone (dust cap) If you can see any sign of light then that's definitely what they are - spares the VC and former as well as helps up the power handling of the driver Not a bad idea to glue a bit of screen mesh over them after you're done with your repair and before you put them back in the cabinets If they are cooling ports for the VC, trash can migrate into the gap - that's why you see a screen over that hole on JBL drivers Craig
  4. Blown New Advent driver

    Yeah, Parts Express and ePay are real danger zones for browsing AND you are correct, you probably are better off listening to "Pete" because at this rate you're not going to be listening to a PAIR of anything anytime soon, so it may as well be "Pete" in the meantime - this "conversation" has been going on for 2+ months now Good luck getting your "Advents" going Craig
  5. Blown New Advent driver

    So what? It has nothing to do with the model "Advents" up for discussion
  6. Blown New Advent driver

    Magnet shape is irrelevant
  7. Blown New Advent driver

    I suggested that the hole diameters be verified The advice that I dispensed here was excellent from my point of view and in this particular situation fits the bill perfectly He wants to get his speakers working so he can listen to Music AND for as little money as is possible Capeesh? I sent you a PM getting a little more specific Craig
  8. Blown New Advent driver

    What is the diameter of the woofer's hole? Everyone selling new (the pin cushion style frame like yours) at reasonable prices are sold out These may work, if not there are other to check out as possible candidates All you need to be concerned with is nominal impedance and hole diameter - the one below would be a good match if your cabinet allows - well reviewed to boot: https://www.parts-express.com/grs-10pf-8-10-paper-cone-foam-surround-woofer--292-410 The one above is the same woofer this joker is selling for more than twice as much and he's sold over 700 of them: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-10-Woofer-Speaker-Home-Audio-8ohm-bass-replacement-sound-220w-10inch-stereo/181090495264?hash=item2a29d5ab20:g:dt8AAOSw9r1WCGsg All the affordable 10"s: https://www.parts-express.com/cat/woofers/15?N=19809+4294967118+4294965083&Ne=10166&Nrs=collection()%2Frecord[endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_PortalID"%2C"1")+and+endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_Searchable"%2C"1")]&PortalID=1
  9. Blown New Advent driver

    The shape of the magnet makes absolutely no difference The power of the magnet does The speakers up for discussion are a Jensen Electronics era product and that 10" cone and motor are as common as dirt (which most of you already know I am sure) The flange mounting is simply a cosmetic nod to the "real" Advents built by Henry and does prove to be a pain to source currently Find a pair of new Jensen Electronics 10"s (from or for any of the multitude of their "Advent" 2-ways) and bolt them in, that or simply re-cone them (parts are readily available for that) "Legacy" "Legacy II" etc etc etc This is not a complicated problem - not the same as restoring a pair of "real" once built by Henry Kloss Advents Not trying to sound ugly, but you can probably buy another pair of any of the dozen "versions" of the 10" two ways Jensen Electronics churned out during the late '80s through the '90s for less than having yours properly repaired and still have the same speakers (read: paying someone else to fix them for you) With the exception of the VERY first models sold in '81 - '82 post bankruptcy time, none of these systems have anything to do with Henry Kloss' ADVENTs except in name/some cosmetics only (and marketing inspiration) I wouldn't make a big deal, jump through hoops, spend a lot of money or fret too much on any level over keeping them "original" - fitment of any of those 10"s with the same nominal impedance rating and they'll sound the same, perfectly fine Craig
  10. WTB: Magnavox Remote

    Not a New England speaker item but definitely "vintage" in terms of electronics Fairly long shot but they do turn up; I am looking for an ancient Magnavox remote, model MER 061 Always find the listings AFTER they've sold : - ( Please PM me if you got and want to get rid of Thanks Craig
  11. AR-2ax SOLID BRASS Version Badge

    Klipsch badge sold All brass AR-2ax badge still available Craig
  12. Market for AR-11

    That goes for about 99.9% of all worthwhile vintage systems no matter the maker
  13. Hi Kent, I just need a schematic (with voltages) don't really care about a manual proper These plate amps are fairly simple, like PC power supplies and the fix is usually a .10 cent zener or a cap or resistor or two that's fried I have a working unit that was given to me me (nice sub actually) that works but after a while goes into shut down Like I mentioned, I'll probably find the issues once I open it up (just haven't has a chance this week, it's been a disaster AND I woke up the other day with a fairly serious lingual hernia to deal with, n top of all my other health crap) by just giving it a good visual, but still, I ALWAYS prefer trouble shooting with a proper schematic And yeah, like I said in my first post, product support from Cambridge has ALWAYS sucked, even back when they were in all the malls (don't ask me how I know) I'm going to repair this sub- not worth it to me investing in just buying another cheaply built chines plate amp from Parts Express - they're basically all the same platform (again, like PC power supplies) Once the specific issue is identified I will also address all the other issues with upgrade parts (again, building as cheaply as possible like they do) Most of these amps are only good for a few trouble free years anyway (again, same as PC power supplies) Even Lexicon uses the same cheap crap you'll find in an HP tower PC! I've fixed more than a few of their $6000 dollar processor/pre-amps and all that was in them was cheap as dirt "Artesyn" switching PSs, just with a "proprietary" part number (and the Lexicon price tag of course!) I've probably already got all the parts on hand already here at the house and Fry's has a very good selection of zeners f I need them (which seems to be one of the common failure items on these due to underrating (read building as cheap as possible) all of their boards Thanks for your input as always Best regards, Craig
  14. Blown New Advent driver

    Don't know exactly how to interpret this post and don't really care Just hope it wasn't negative in nature as I was just passing along some sound (no pun intended) advice is dealing with one of probably the top 5 speaker repar men, or just speaker men period, in the good old U.S.A. KNOWN QUANTITY and guaranteed PRISTINE results Just telling you what I know from actual experience in dealing with the man and a long time relationship And for what it's worth, few people are as gracious as Bill LeGall, but suffice it to say, he prefers (as do I) doing business in the analog domain (i.e.: face to face, voice to voice and with a Human connection) The punks today call it "old school" Take it for what you will brother Good luck getting your speakers repaired Craig
  15. In need of a SCHEMATIC and or a SERVICE MANUAL for an old Cambridge Soundworks "BASSCUBE 12S" Any help or direction to a source would be greatly appreciated A schematic for just the plate amp would take care of the total ticket! I know this amp is totally repairable and I'm going to start with the basics that plague them all but I'd like a schematic to assist with Voltage values and transistor types I can do this flying visual but a schematic would be an ENORMOUS time saver! Thanks to all Craig
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