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About Analogman

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  1. A Nice set of LST's on CL in Albany

    Not a matter or question of quality, it's a matter of age and whether you are a do it yourselfer restorer hobbyist type or looking for a pair of plug and play (just a good speaker/good Music lover) $1750 is a LOT of money to pay for forty and fifty years old speakers based on nothing but the positive emotions that nice aesthetics and eye candy evoke Especially when dealing with well aged ARs And I LOVE ARs 20 years ago ARs were a hobby (collecting and listening seldom requiring more than an R and R type repair with parts still being fairly easy to source and priced reasonably) fast forward to today and they're a commitment, whether in time, money or both (and at time frustration and compromise) And yes, cabinet volume will have a dramatic impact on most low frequency drivers' response Craig
  2. KLH 6 ???

    As capable as any of 'em for the job - see 'em EVERY WHERE and in some pretty darn good stuff too! People that worry over capacitors (relatively speaking) should see what a company like B&W uses in more than a few of their models that cost as much as a decent used car The CAP selected = 5% the CIRCUIT = 95% Can that 5% screw up the other 95%? Sure it can But in order to be sure that it DOESN'T you need not spend anymore or any less that what you'd have to pay for say something HONEST like the 5% Dayton from PE This is MY take on it - everyone has their own Craig
  3. KLH 6 ???

    Have you heard them yet? Make a point for paying stupid money for an other than it's price unremarkable polyproylene capacitor, in a thread starting off with the question what's special, if anything, about a KLH Model 6? At the Classic Speaker Pages forum? And from there. we're already shopping tweeters and re--capping the speakers Craig
  4. Speaker cabel

    Thanks Kent, I'm good for now, have two sets stashed, was just wondering I did search your image and it led me to one of those vendors asking an arm and a leg Thanks gain Craig
  5. AR-2ax Craigslist 11-17-17

    Good hunting! Craig
  6. Speaker cabel

    Where did you find those photos Kent? "Stock", or do you know a vendor? The last two pin plugs I bought I had to get through a Telefunken collector friend in Germany (they are easy to buy there at brick and mortar electronic shops for just a few bucks) - the German version of a Radio Shack or a Best Buy is where mine came from The asking here was insane (at least when I was looking for them) Thank you Kent Craig
  7. AR-2ax Craigslist 11-17-17

    More than that if the last stats I read were true! ; - ) You are wasting your time though Craig
  8. A Nice set of LST's on CL in Albany

    It is a lot of money - especially if you are blue collar Looks can be deceiving As good as they are it's still a lot of money for the risk you take Especially if you are an originalist and want to keep things that way ('cause it's getting harder to do) Very frustrating now when I see pairs that nice ('cause I ain't gettin' any younger either) It's a difficult perspective and has changed dramatically, most dramatically so since the '90s But when you see a pair present that well it's like the time/age factors vanish (or is ignored or just not thought about) Then the thrill of the chase and the excitement is high! Craig
  9. AR3a Tweeters

    Sorry to hear your health is bad Y'all get well, soon! My initial post wasn't over a lack of an update Just sad you were doing what you had proposed at all Craig
  10. Another KLH Five recap

    I remarked on the topic in another thread just the other day Securing caps (film types and electrolytics) with a hobby type hot glue gun WILL NOT HARM CAPACITORS IN ANY WAY, FUNCTIONALLY/ELECTRICALLY Just look at the spec sheets for any cap you choose that uses through leads (caps you solder into a circuit or onto a PC board) if you still have doubts or don't believe me Or remember the fact that many of the film types we use in our speakers also see duty in and on tube amp circuits The heat a cap endures from the simple act of soldering far exceeds anything it's ever going to feel from a hot glue gun glob Subjecting electrolyics to extremely high ambient or contact temperatures over a period of months or years (cooking them) is another story - that can eventually lead to knocking your values out of whack Just look at the spec sheets for any modern type - they'll provide you a temperature and a time value There is one (possible) exception and that's an extremely small value polystyrene types (tiny) but you're not using those in crossovers and the solderabilty on those is pretty decent as well for up to 3 seconds (unless you're heavy handed/don't know how to solder/not using some sort of heat sink) You can melt/ruin them with a soldering iron, but even polystyrenes can easily handle the heat from hot glue Film, film and foil and electrolytics? If hot glue is how you want to go then have at it Back in the the day, JBL, Stephens, Altec and more than a few others potted their networks and that black asphalt type stuff was a hell of a lot hotter when poured than hot glue will ever be and stayed hotter longer as well And a lot of those were wax types

    That's why I don't buy junk anymore Still plenty of nice examples out there (cars and speakers) if you are willing to peel off the bills Saves you headaches AND money over the long game I had to learn this the hard way : - ( Craig
  12. AR17 caps

    You can't look at a cap and tell anything (unless it's a wet type and something is leaking out of it) You need a cap tester and or a scope and or just use your ears, do the speakers sound correct to you? Yes, I see on this particular pair you don't have any outer compliance yet! ; - ) I personally would re-cap those as A. I by-pass all of my networks anyway so I'm already in there (as are you) and B. MOST manufacturers use the cheapest caps they can source (which means they seldom match well) and C. you can't hurt anything and if you did, it's 100% reversible Whether you can hear this or not is user dependent and everyone has their own priorities I replace with know good parts, then I know what I have and I have also maximized box to box voicing at least in the capacitance department And besides, in 2018, high quality capacitance is CHEAP! Nice speakers by the way Craig

    You can see very clearly here why the 123 is an ideal driver for a sealed box like the AR 2ax (if you can fit it in): http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Thiele Small Parameters/Theile Parameters.pdf

    The reason you didn't like 'em (assuming the rest of their "factory buyouts" spec sheet is honest) is that the 2ax box is too small for that driver if this be the one: https://www.parts-express.com/tc-1028-10-ribbed-paper-cone-woofer-with-foam-surround-8-ohm--299-2182#lblProductDetails And all the inductors in the world ain't gonna fix that That driver needs a BIG box like the junk that used to come with the rack systems, the "floor standers" Craig
  15. I have had more than a few "I can tell a definite difference/improvement/wow, that's VERY nice" experiences with caps (like the improved inner detail and clarity you get with replacing old film types with new as well as by-passing) but have never ever had a "jaw dropping" one (by changing any cap that was working properly in the first place) and I have installed, changed and serviced a LOT of capacitors (electrolytic maintenance jobs and just plain open circuit or MASSIVE drifts off value notwithstanding) Real, definite and significant (sometimes) improvements, but again, never a "jaw dropping" one I think those only occur between the pages of sterephool and some folks' ears : - ) Craig