dd123

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About dd123

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  1. AR2ax tweeter terminal post trouble

    Hey, watch the cracks about hearing loss More good stuff for my gray matter. I love learning about all this. Thanks to you both. I've got to get a move on ordering replacement caps and probably pots -- the corrosion is so bad that part of the rotating contacts are eaten away. Maybe I'll just bypass the tweeter pot. Any recommendations for parts? I'd also be interested in your thoughts on AR3 or 3a compared to 2ax. Are the 3 and 3a true 3-way speakers where the tweeter produces more? Do they sound lots better than the 2ax to your ears?
  2. AR2ax tweeter terminal post trouble

    The lower output of the tweeter makes me wonder why AR bothered making it adjustable with a pot. I would think most folks run it wide open?
  3. AR2ax tweeter terminal post trouble

    Really good stuff, thanks Roy and oldguide. It was a real let down when I heard the relative quietness of the tweeter -- I've been wanting affordable ARs for a while -- so I'm glad that it may be normal. Next step is to check the other one. I'm really leaning toward crimping (even though I'd like to keep them original) due to all I've heard/read about trying to solder aluminum wire, especially one little strand. I made a temporary fix by rotating the terminal post so the hole is closer to the wire stub, and straightening the wire. I gently scraped off the coating with a razor blade. It just reaches and should be OK until I find crimps or the courage to solder. Now the tweeter measures 1.4 ohms...go figure.
  4. I finally got my first pair of AR's -- early version 2ax's! They need work so I pulled the woofer on one. Painting the house can wait, right? I bypassed the corroded pots by attaching temporary jumper wires so I could check out the mid and tweeter. The tweeter's output was noticeably less than the midrange's. I disconnected the tweeter from the cap and pot, and attached a meter to the underside of the tweeter terminal posts, I found that the resistance reading bounces all over the place when I wiggle the top of one of the spring loaded posts. When all is well it reads 1.8 ohms. Has this happened to anyone else with this tweeter version (see photo)? More importantly, what do I do about it? That thin little tweeter wire makes me a bit gun shy. And now for the true confession. While inspecting the wire and terminal post, I started unwinding the excess wire that was wrapped around the top of the post and naturally it broke off. So now I'm thinking there might not be enough wire to do whatever needs to be done for a good connection. Ugh! How is the wire supposed to attach to the post? Is that thin tweeter wire insulated? Can other wire be soldered to it by someone with five thumbs if I need to make it longer? Can I learn to keep my hands off of this stuff until I get input from folks who know what's up?!!! OK, I'll stop talking now.
  5. Model seventeen -- where's the bass?

    Sorry for the late response to this thread -- I didn't know there had been more posts. I must not be setup for notifications. Thanks for the additional thoughts. When I played with room placement of my 17s, I was reminded once again how much of a factor that is. Also, the 1.5 seconds is when the woofer is in the sealed cabinet. And the holes in the cloth surround are only pin holes I can only see when held up to a light. I agree that the 17s can be listened to for a long time without any so-called fatigue. I really like them a lot.
  6. Model seventeen -- where's the bass?

    Good info folks. Thanks. I'm going to experiment with room placement. They are already up off the floor, but I'll try them near the wall and in the corners, as long as the bass doesn't get boomy. Then it will be time to work on the cabinets -- they need to be refinished badly.
  7. Hi all. First time posting here. I'm perplexed by my pair of 17s based on some of the posts I've read about their all around sound quality. The mids and highs on mine are great -- full and easy -- but the low end seems a bit lacking. I have recapped them and redoped the woofer cloth surrounds. I'm not sure how good a measure it is of air tightness, but when I gently press the woofer cone all the way in and release it, it takes over 1.5 seconds to return fully. When I hold the woofer up to the light, I can see scattered pin holes of light in the cloth surrounds. I'm driving them with a vintage Kenwood KR6600 -- 60 wpc. Is there anything else I can try? I enjoy them very much, but a little more low end would be even better.