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About dls123

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  1. AR-2x replacement tweeters

    Hi Steve, Thanks for the info. They have the 2 1/2 in. tweeters and definitely a 10 in woofer with foam surround. It looks like someone did the surrounds already since they are in decent shape. So I guess I will pull a woofer and see what caps are in there. The pots are probably filthy so will spray them with contact cleaner. Still, the tweeter is nothing to write home about from what I can tell. I guess the best course of action is the replace the caps, clean the pots (or bypass them) and of course measure the resistance across the disconnected tweeter to make sure it is the same as the good one. Then, if I can get the other tweeter to work I can listen to what they can do. I suppose then that if I want to swap tweeters I need one that fits the opening, is the correct impedance and sensitivity, and can make it down to 1200 Hz, pretty low. Is there any documentation of the specs of the 2 1/2 tweeter? I have a pair of KLH 17 that I rebuilt and they are pretty nice. Highs there are somewhat "rolled off", but mids to die for. These smaller AR speakers are what they are, not in the same league as their bigger brothers, but quite enjoyable. I have been listening to a pair of Klipsch Cornwalls lately that I turned into CornScalas. They are pretty amazing, but I always like playing with the AR speakers and always pick them up when they are a bargain. Then I find good homes for them with friends. thanks, Don
  2. Hi I rescued a nice pair of AR-2X speakers from the thrift store for $5. Surrounds are in good shape, cabinets and grills are pretty good too. I will pull a woofer and get the cap values and replace them, but the tweeter on one is not working. The other tweeter is, but speakers are pretty rolled off. Possibly the crossover is damaged on the one, possibly the tweeter. Jumper wire on the terminals is connected. I know this is not one of the best models, but I am willing to throw a few dollars at them to have a nice pair of bench or office speakers. I am quite familiar with the 3a having restored a pair (wonderful). Does anyone know of a good replacement tweeter that will fit the opening and mate well with the crossover? Not looking for a $100 pair of tweeters, just something inexpensive that is a better tweeter than the original cone ones. Also, when I push on the woofer gently it springs back very quickly compared to the 3a woofers. I assume this indicates a poor cabinet seal? Again, the surrounds look very good, possibly have been redone by someone. Any tweeter advice appreciated if anyone has played with a pair of these! cheers, Don
  3. AR3a Improved tweeter resistor

    Hi again, this might be a new topic...but has anyone tried the big Russian PIO caps in the xover for the 3a? Here is an interesting cap: http://cgi.ebay.ca/6-uF-400-V-Paper-Capaci...93%3A2|294%3A30 Think these would be too slow an syrupy? Anyone with any experience? You could also make it work with K-73's or use a combo of the two. I have a lot of experience with Russian PIO's in amps, but none in speakers. They are so cheap you can buy 10 and match them with a meter, but perhaps would sound terrible in speakers. Anyone with experience please chime in. thanks don
  4. AR3a Improved tweeter resistor

    Thanks Klaus. I rebuild tube amplifiers and have a number of caps laying around that would be good for bypass. I have a whole drawer of K40 PIO's. I do recall that I looked at the drivers and compared them to the info in the rebuilding the AR3a document when I picked these up a year ago. I am pretty sure I could identify both the tweeters and the mids as late model ones in that document. One tweeter measured just a bit low in resistance compared to the other and both mids were spot on. However both tweeters are working and the speaker does image well. I will try some warm sounding caps in both the mid and tweeter positions and maybe even bypass with a small K40 as an experiment and see if that tones things down a bit. A very cheap experiment. You can hear their potential. I don't know how much a cap change will tame them, but worth a try. A nice vintage speaker. They can't compete with my big Josephs upstairs, but that is not a fair comparison. I think my Citation V will push them very nicely if I can tame that upper midrange. Will identify all drivers, test sound of one speaker vs. the other and report back soon. cheers, Don
  5. AR3a Improved tweeter resistor

    Hi, You are right in that I need to hook them up again, put the preamp in mono mode and compare channels to see if one speaker is the culprit. Assuming they are both the same it could be caps, but I have used Solens before in my Advents and they sounded way better. Albeit, a completely different design. I could grab some Dayton caps to try, a cheap experiment. Anyway, the Solens have about 25 - 30 hours on them so they should have settled down. Impedances..I will have to look at the drivers. Will experiment a bit shortly if I get the chance. Thanks.
  6. AR3a Improved tweeter resistor

    Hi OK, getting back to original topic. I am not sure how many official AR3a improved versions there were, but looking through the excellent rebuilding document on the home page, my tweeters do match one of them in there. I can't remember which, but it was one of the later ones. At any rate, the xover schematic I posted is exactly what is in my speakers and so is the wadding. So, the problem is that they just have too much energy in the upper mids and perhaps the tweeter. If you use switch position B it tames them somewhat, but then the highs lose some of the shimmer. I really think it is more of an upper mid-range glare I am hearing. I am sure these drivers are capable of better. So we have one vote for modifying it to the L-pad xover. Any other suggestions? I have two Citation II's on the bench now and a Sherwood S-8000 that I am finishing up, so it may be a few weeks until I get back to the AR's. The other amps are for other folks who actually pay me a bit to work on the so they sort of have higher priority! Still, I wouldn't mind ordering some parts if I can agree on a design. Any suggestions will be considered! Thanks all for an excellent forum! Don
  7. AR3a Improved tweeter resistor

    Hi I can't seem to find the thread, but I posted the xover schematic that I pulled from this site above in my earlier post. My speaker is exactly like that schematic. I have put solens caps in, but used the same values. Resistors are all within 5%. Don
  8. AR3a Improved tweeter resistor

    Hi again, Have analyzed the AR3a improveds a bit. It is a hot upper midrange. Not sibilant, but it kind of honks at you in the upper vocal range, particularly female vocals that tend towards brightness. I looked and one of the midranges has a different colored lead wire that someone spliced into with the lead from the xover. So it appears a midrange has been swapped or repaired at some point. It appears identical to the other one though except for the color of that lead. I recall measuring the resistance and the two were the same, but I should do it again. So I wonder if the characteristics of that midrange driver are different even though it appears identical. If you run the tweeter switch on "B" for max attenuation then you lose a lot of the cymbals and shimmer, although it does cut down on that upper midrange honk a bit. Running it on A has decent highs, but then it honks too much on vocals - just edgy. I tried them upstairs on the Cit. II and they do it there too. Interesting. Guess I will have to measure the midrange resistance and look carefully at any markings on the rear of the drivers and see if they are different. They appear identical on the front. I know there is some info on this site about the different midrange drivers. More later...stay tuned. cheers, Don
  9. AR3a Improved tweeter resistor

    Thanks Zilch. I read your threads, very interesting. However, the xover in the 3a Improved is quite different and I cannot quite understand how to implement your scheme. Attached is a schematic of my xover. I have replaced all the caps and a few resistors and verified that my speakers are identical to this crossover schematic. Any further help appreciated! I am not a speaker expert, but can read and build most anything from a schematic. Most of my experience is with tube amps/preamps although have rebuilt a few pairs of speakers. thanks!
  10. Hi all, I am finally getting around to finishing this pair of AR3a Improved's. I downloaded the schematic from here (thanks), and have installed all new poly caps and new speaker terminals. Have also changed a few resistors. They sound pretty good, but they are just a bit hot in the high end. The AR3a Improveds don't have the tweeter level control, but rather a simple A/B DPDT switch. Tweeter is wired directly in position A and has a 1 ohm resistor in series in position B. Even with position B there is a bit of glare that I am pretty sure is due to the tweeters being just a bit hot. So...all you AR3a experts... should I remove the switch and wire it like the regular 3a using the L-pad scheme discussed in the big rebuilding the AR3a document? Or, it seems a simple solution is to either experiment with resistor values greater than the 1 ohm on the B position. Or, buy a simple 4 or 5 pole switch and install the several resistor values on each pole and experiment. Then I would leave the A position alone and when the DPDT was on position B the rotary switch would be in circuit and I could dial in one of a few resistor settings. Any reason not to go this route (a small hole and a good seal of that switch)? Seems to me that you'd then know that each speaker had the exact same resistance for the tweeter. If I go this route, anyone have experience as to what values to try? 1 ohm seems a bit too little. 2 ohms too high? I will have 3 or 4 positions to play with. Any advice appreciated! FYI they are being driven with a rebuilt Citation V (54 watts/ch) and a Citation I. I know they are probably a hard load for a tube amp, but they seem to have plenty of bass and mid-range is good, just a bit hot in the highs. A little "honky"... cheers, Don
  11. AR3a improved tweeter diagnosis

    Hi Thanks for the auction warning. If it hits $100 you can have it! I will find one or a pair eventually. I will keep reading about your dispersion experiments.. thanks.
  12. AR3a improved tweeter diagnosis

    We have a had a few threads about this lately. There is a low(lower cost) solution with a pair of Carl's tweeter rings, a pair of special AR tweeters and a pair of coils(available at "Parts Express")-time to go to work-good luck Thanks, Rick Brumett Hi, Thanks, I was reading a thread on that last night. Seems like a sub-optimal solution given the wonderful dispersion of the original tweeters. Guess I will join the ranks trolling ebay for a tweeter and if no luck will go the Carl's or AB-tech route. Do you know if you can sub an older AR tweeter from the 3a series in there? Or do you need a pair of older ones? I guess I will keep searching the old threads for people's experiences. cheers, Don
  13. Hi I have a tweeter with lower output and would like to replace it without replacing both tweeters in my AR3 improveds. AR part no. is 200013-1. Anyone have one or a pair for sale? cheers, Don
  14. Hi I just finished re-capping my AR3a improved speakers. All drivers seem to work, but as before the re-capping, output is slightly louder from one speaker. You have to set the balance to about 1 or 2 o'clock to center a female vocal. I have done some experimenting and it appears that one tweeter has less output. All resistors in the crossover are pretty much on spec and it does the same with the switch in the A position which has no resistor to tweeter. The 6 uF caps are new Solens and read almost exactly the same on my meter. The tweeter is AR part no. 200013-1. Is it common for a tweeter to slowly loose output rather than fail? I suppose I can pull it and check the connection or change the wire on that side, but all the wires looked good in the crossover end of things. Resistance across strong tweeter is 3.1 ohms, and 2.5 ohms across weaker one. Is tweeter going? I guess so. If you swap tweeters the problem moves to the other speaker...... Any good sources of 200013-1 tweeters....? cheers, Don
  15. AR3a improved x-over options

    Yes, that seems reasonable. The thing I don't like about pots is that unless they are stepped attenuators it would be hard to make both channels equal except to tune by ear. Now I just need to figure out whether to use NPE's for the big 150 uF cap. Polys that big are $30 each, NPE's are pocket change. The smaller ones are inexpensive enough to use good decent polys like Solens. cheers, Don