dick

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  1. Austin AR Discoveries....2nd...

    Anthropologo Bravo! re: your finds. The guys are just fooling with you. Many have no doubt found and saved wonderful speakers at "the right price." I'm a very big fan of the town dump (AR3a's for $0, and my introduction to the classic speaker addiction), as well as the curbside when driving around (KLH17's for $0). Like you, I'm hugely relieved to be back in the future with hugely magnificient great sound. Keep on cruising! Nice descriptions, BTW.... If, like me, you're not a techno-wiz, you'll find an abundance of true expertise on this web forum. I'm happy to have been guided through the rebuilding process of my classic speakers.
  2. Tom, my favorite ad is the one showing listeners in Grand Central Station. Absorbed listeners obviously pleasantly involved in the music -- it says volumes. Nice that you showed the advertising -- it must have been an admired standard now forgotten by all of MadAve. Dick
  3. Good stands for the Ar3a

    Here's the deal. Built the stands out of scrap hardwood, brought them into the house, set them up. The sound is nicely improved. Thanks to all for alerting me to this matter...and as I understand it, to Tom Tyson for rescuing AR criteria on the stands. The sound is a bit more articulate, and very nice. BUT! The dimensions of 'oldguide,' while resulting in a stable base, are a bit wide and result in stands that are, well, 'assertive.' Moreover, wife being comfortable with the previous on-floor speakers is in revolt over the new height and the now obvious aged (original!) linen fabric grille. I hedged my bet beforehand, though, making the stands 1/8" longer so they'd also fit the KLH23's out in the workshop/studio. They'll have a home there and be appreciated, so "Thanks!" oldguide. Plan is to leave the stands under the AR3a's for a few days (more?) while I scratch my head for options. How about a narrower, smaller stand that would somehow (?) engage the 3a bottom, while having a wider base for stability? Wood is my material of choice as I'm not a metalworker. Old cloth might fade from sight, or sound improvement might triumph over it, but the stand needs some correction. Tap in bottom with screws that hold upside down cups into which fit hardwood piers? (Would this addition to bottom mess things up sonically?) And, how about lowering the speakers, as earlier post shows about 12"? h.e.l.p. deeply appreciated! Cheers, Dick
  4. Good stands for the Ar3a

    If height is the only parameter for a more pure 3a sound, then I should be able to set them up on blocks of wood, books, etc. to see if that 14+" height works for ears here. Separating speaker from floor by height is one thing. But also, per designs as mentioned above, by lots of air under the speaker is another matter. By not providing a large and dense route for sound to travel downward might also be a consideration. Anyone up on this?
  5. Good stands for the Ar3a

    Any comments on AR3a audio improvement with stands? Good as well for KLH 23's? Wood ones look readily made for a few cents -- oak or maple painted black perhaps...hard durable wood. Thanks for the nice photos.
  6. AR 3a pick up

    John...Jeez, checked the backs of my 3a's and they're just like yours: plywood. So I stand corrected. As for coils, I t hnk I left the originals in place. Kent: Nice info on 3a cap options. I followed CSP advice "way back when" and have, I think, Daytons in mine -- probably 2 years old now and much used. Wonder if/when I might change to others if it is advantageous. Any comments on that? Dick PS: after a few years of accidentally getting into this line of aural enhancement, the situation here is: a pair of AR3a's (house), a pair of AR4x's (Advent speakers) -- (bedroom), a pair of KLH 17's (greenhouse), 2 pairs of KLH23's (studio/workshop) which I run all at once.
  7. AR 3a pick up

    Haven't been on here in many months. Your situation brings me out of the backroom.... The back of the one speaker is regular plywood - see the grain? -- not pressed chips--the incredibly dense wood of the original, and not original as is the other one?? Probably no big deal as long as it is dense plywood, but what plywood today is without gaps other than marine grade? As for pots and other improvements, see Roy C -- my long term seriously guiding speaker guru. Speakers here have L-pads, and Hi Vi tweeters that well might be now out of stock and gone forever--but check out Madison Sound -- the T20-4 tweeters. These tweeters put the 3a's firmly in Speaker Heaven in my not so humbled earful opinion. Not that I'd recommend them <oh yes I do!> -- I have an extra pair tucked away for the day when the current ones fade away. But, no reason to totally despair, there are other HiVi options in case the T20-4's are gone. Also, a NAD 372 amplifier does the job here -- we're vastly pleased. But we'd never over-amp the speakers...they're just too precious. 18 ga. AR speaker wire. Faure piano works now on and sending me, so.... Gotta go listen. Count your luck stars re: landing a 3a -- I count mine daily!
  8. Before I went to Radio Shack and got the RF modulator, I tried placing the video and audio leads in the RCA jacks on the TV. Nothing worked out. Now, at least there's AR4x sound for the DVDs. I'm going to leave it at that, although for Old Guide here's some info: TV = RCA 20F424T RF modulator = Radio Shcak RF modulator 02A02 (Part # 15-1244) These TVs have a history of staying alive for some time. We're on our 4th set in some 40 years. Chances are that we'll simply live with it as is or will become obsessed with scads of quality music over PBS (bring it on, please!) and trot out for a new TV with audio output capabilities. I'm fully aware that addidng an old VCR to the mix of boxes on the counter might not be wise. ...there's stuff enough surrounding the TV.... So thanks for all comments, suggestions!
  9. OG and Kent: Here's rear jacks on TV. Seems to be all input. You'd think sales persons would alert the buyer to these limitations on sets. However at the time of purchase my unexpected trip(s) into audio-land were yet to be.
  10. Old Guide and Kent! Here goes. Please find 2 photos of the rear views of the various components. And find a schematic of the hookup. Does this help? As hooked up, to go to the TV, one simply moves the antenna feed switch to the antenna. To play a DVD, move the switch, and the DVD gets its video sent to the TV and the audio to the Onkyo receiver and thence to the AR4x's. This works fine. What I'm after is to get the ARs to perform audio service for the TV only setup. (forgot to photo rear of TV -- will do that next, but I think the audio jcks are for 'input' only).
  11. Well. Sorry, but lost track of this. Thanks for bringing it back. RF Modulator has coax in and out as well as yellow, red, white RCA jacks. Using currently yellow for the DVD hookup. Ate my hat last week: LA Symphony Orchestra with dynamic Gustavo Dudamel was on PBS with Mahler's Symphony #1 on our TV's crappy speakers. Arrrgh. If you guys collectively think there's a chance, I'll map my current situation out and you can let me know how to keep the one RF mod for the DVD as well as the TV audio -- or perhaps you'll have me get another RF mod. Maybe, just maybe, in the next few days, there'll be time enough to do the sketching and some photos. Best regards, Dick
  12. Kent, TV is digital. Was analog/digital when we bought it. Now we only switch to analog to watch DVDs which do run on stereo. Thanks for diagrams. Assume I can merely ignore the digital converter, but follow all else for connecting a VCR (this for exporting TV audio to Onkyo/ARs). Amazing what wasn't on TV, what I never thought to ask about. Dick
  13. Soundminded/Ken, When I last looked, our town dump had quite a collection of VCRs. Will take a look this weekend. If all gone to regional recycling center, then it is off on a hunt to Salvation Armani (Brooklyn name based on what comes, apparently, from Wall St. sorts). As for the actual hookup, here's what Sir Klutz (me) might attempt: Hook VCR up to incoming digital coax antenna line at the VCR's input port. Take another line out of the VCR's output port to the TV. The VCR would have audio outputs (stereo or not) that would hook up to auxiliary posts on back of receiver (in my case, Tape 2 on the Onkyo). Normal TV reception would flow through the VCR (on or off?) and when ON would enable audio from TV to be routed to receiver and thence to AR4x's. Leave the DVD connections alone. I assume all think the VCR is a better option than an RF modulator. Hmm. Reasons other than $15 vs. $5 or $0? Does VCR and/or RF modulator read from TV what channel/audio is selected? This is done upstream of the TV? Hmmm. Tell me what I thought wrong before I'm wrong wrong wrong in deed! On 8" Philips woofer speaker (in Bose 301 cab) repair, RoyC advised to coat torn paper cone bit of woofer with rubber cement back, then front (it drys but is flexible), not his Woofer Goo (stays gooey). Did this on paper (looks good!), but continued use of the Woofer Goo on the cloth surround just because I thought it would be better.... No fuzz sound, no garble. Tiptoed away.
  14. Thanks, OldGuide. So the RF Modulator will provide TV audio output? And I can direct that TV audio output to the receiver/AR speakers? And then TV audio will appear on speakers with channel changes? One TV coax line coming in from a digital antenna (not dish, not cable). Currently, the coax line is already split by a switch to direct the DVD setup to TV when desired, and/or to allow the antenna signal to come to the TV. Moreover, for reasons I cannot recall although the setup didn't work without it, there is a RF Modulator between the DVD player and the switching setup (don't recall exact wiring setup now). Perhaps I should buy another and see if it will work. The current RF Modulator is from Radio Shack.