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About Rhubarb

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  1. Rhubarb

    Model 5 find

    Nice find, Adam! I really like my fives. They have a great sound. JKent seems to have all the bases covered, but if I may, can I add a couple of things that I found with my Model Fives: While you have them open use some electrical contact cleaner (DeoxIT) to clean the cps switches, mine needed that quite badly. Also, I recommend pulling out all of the drivers and renewing the original sealant between the drivers and the cabs, I used Ace Rope Caulk, but there are other options, such as gasket material from P.E., or the more original sealant available from the AR seller on that auction site. Your also going to want to clean up those cabinets, but that's a whole other ball of Feed-n-Wax.
  2. Well Shucks! I suppose I am an irresponsible speaker owner, but I was testing these AS-2 speakers on my Sherwood S-8900A underneath my KLH 5s. They sounded great stacked with the fives. The highs of the fives combined with the bass of the AS-2s seemed to be making that synergy that I've heard so much about. Anyway, I was using them without the grills on, and my cat had the need to investigate the woofer. Investigate, she did, with abandon.... It's been a couple weeks, and now I don't feel quite so disgusted with myself, I am looking to R&R these puppies. I see that Vintage AR has a replacement woofer. $100 seems a bit steep to me, is there anywhere else to source this driver? Here are few shots of the driver. I got the PE Dayton caps that Kent Suggested. Here are a few shots of the original x-over. Here is the Kempac It's in great condition. Kinda looks and feels like crepe paper. The damping material seems denser and more crumbly than normal fiberglass "insulation". Finally, I have to do something about the veneer on one of the speakers...it's bubbling and splitting. I would love to save it, but it looks pretty shabby as is. I have been pricing veneer, but a complete re-veneer seems a bit out of my realm. Hopefully this post isn't TOO image laden. To anyone with dial-up, I apologize in advance.
  3. I plan on replacing the caps. I'll take some innards photos when I get there. Is there anything else I should consider while I'm in there. Changing values, cleaning and/or replacing the l-pads, etc?
  4. Hello all. I just thought I'd share these pictures with you all...I picked these up yesterday for $45. I've read that they are just AR-2's in kit form.
  5. I ended up using a 12uF and a 4uF in parallel to replace the 16MFD. I know it wasn't necessary, but I wanted to make sure I but the same values in that I took out. No scientific reason, since I don't really know what I'm doing, just a feeling or hunch. 2) Dayton DMPC-25 25uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor 2) Dayton DMPC-12 12uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor 8) Dayton DMPC-4.0 4.0uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor 2) Dayton DMPC-3.0 3.0uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor The 3.0uf were back order for a couple of weeks, so I had these things sitting around, open with 3/4 of the caps replaced. It was pretty frustrating, I couldn't wait to hear them. All I can say is that the difference I noticed when I finally got them hooked up to my Sherwood S-8900A was night and day. I can't say 100% for sure what the difference was, since they were unable to be listened to for 4 weeks, But I know there was a difference.
  6. Just wanted to post a photo of the finished crossovers. I ended up going with the Daytons. I did not replace any resistors since they all tested out a-ok. Thanks for the help, Kent. These things sound great!
  7. As I am waiting on caps for my model fives from PE. I am getting ready to re-seal the surrounds on the drivers. I was wondering if is would be advantageous to do the mids too? After reading this thread, I plan on taking the Permatex High Tack route.
  8. I too had great luck with Howard Restor-A-Finish on my Model Fives: Before: After: Went over finish first with 000 steel wool and then applied Restor-A-Finish with 0000 steel wool. Followed application with two coats of Howard Feed-N-Wax. Takes no time and gives very nice results. Does not give perfect results as a complete refinish would, but the results are very good considering only about two hours of work.
  9. Kent, Thanks again fro all the great information. Your guidance is really helping make this a painless process. Very cool! -Pie Plant.
  10. OK, so using the EXACT same caps isn't the goal here...it's more about being within a tolerance, as specified on the original caps. In my research I've deduced that one (or two or three) could dance round and round on the subject of replacement caps and still never come to common ground. Would it behoove me to try and match the original caps as close as I can? I could do quasi-fancy with Madisound: 2) Solen 25uF 2) Bennic 16uF 6) Solen 4uF 2) Solen 3uF
  11. Whoopsie! I forgot: One 4uF to replace each 4uf.
  12. OK, Thanks for the heads-up. I will most definitely check Madisound, the prices sound nice. I'll check the resistors to make damn sure thy aren't shot. So here are my thoughts for cap replacement: One 25uF to replace each 25uF. One 4uF in parallel with one 12uF to replace each 16uF. Two 4uF to replace each 2x4uF. One 3uF to replace each 3uF. Is this not the proper route to take? Thanks for all the advice, I can't imagine trying to go this without some help....
  13. Thanks for the reply Kent. I have read through that post a couple of times, very good, and informative stuff, indeed. I was wondering, if it is imperative to replace the resistors? I haven't tested any of them yet, but I have heard that they do go bad. Although, I suppose I might as well, while I'm in there. Do I replace with the same values, or do I adjust? I am pretty new (Read: First recap.) when it comes to crossover rebuilds. I guess a DMM test to see if the are in spec, will tell the tale. I plan on getting my caps from PE so I guess adding some Mills resistors to the odrder will not be and issue. It looks my my x-over has one more cap than yours...or am I just not seeing this properly. And, if I may, one more question...What are your impressions of the Dayton caps vs. the Clarity caps? I don't have the best ears, so I think the Daytons will be just fine. So this is my parts list (so far) from parts express: 2) Dayton DMPC-25 25uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor 2) Dayton DMPC-12 12uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor 8) Dayton DMPC-4.0 4.0uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor 2) Dayton DMPC-3.0 3.0uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor Puts me at $43.12 or $21.56 per speaker before shipping.
  14. First post here. Very happy to be a member of this ultra informative forum. I have been using the schematics, photos and information in the KLH section of the library, as well as here on the forum, to guide my restoration of a pair of Model Fives I recently acquired. I just wanted to post a picture of what I found for my x-overs in my Fives. I found caps as follows: 1) 25 uF 1) 16 uF 1) 4 uf 1) 2 x 4 MFD 1) 3 MFD and these ceramic resistors: 2) 15 ohm 10% 1) 10 ohm 10% 1) 6 ohm 10% 1) 5 ohm 10% I am in the process of ordering Dayton poly metalized caps. If anyone has any insight or personal experiences to add, that would be GREAT!
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