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Jackal

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  1. Hey Dan, I wasn't aware of the FTC committee rule (for others who had no idea, check http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_power#Continuous_power, second paragraph). Thanks for that news. 20-25 watts is lower than I thought, but still seems to be more than enough for the 3a's. I don't ever have to turn it too high to get a good volume level out of the amps, maybe the Tung-Sol EL-34B's really do eek out a few extra watts? I'll try the 2ax with the 4x's when I experiment with the Quadaptor. Do many tube amps get higher than that? I have seen solid state get to rediculous numbers, but never see high numbers with tube amps, unless they have a large number of output tubes. -Jack
  2. Hi Dan, I haven't yet had any problems driving the AR-3a's at moderate volume; the 40 wpc RMS seems to be holding up ok. That may be due to the size and setup of the room, though. I have heard of people driving the 3a's with much less (although I can't imagine them working too well). Any comment on the common ground issue? Thanks, -Jack
  3. Hey guys, I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to set up my stereo & speakers. I'm currently running my pair of MK IV's with a PAS-3 and FM-3. To "complete" the set, I purchased a Quadaptor. I know it's not the best at developing a "true" quadraphonic sound (I hear it's better to do it at the line in level), but I love how it fits will the rest of the set. I have two questions over implementation: 1). The instruction manual recommends the two mono blocks share a common ground. Is this something that can be accomplished by simply tying the two amp grounds together? I feel this will be difficult due to the size and small spacing of the terminal posts. Could I just ground them together by running a wire between chassis screws instead? 2). I am planning on running my AR-3a's for the front and AR-2ax's for the rear (thank you Roy for both!!!). Are the 2ax's overkill? I have a pair of AR-4x's that are also available for this application. I'm working on designing a cabinet that should nicely incorporate each component, including the two digital voltmeters I use to monitor bias Thanks, -Jack
  4. Hi all, Hope everyone is doing well! I have been trying to get my first tube amplifier, but want to make sure they can handle the wpc of AR speakers! I'm trying to decide between the AR-2ax, AR-5, and AR-3a. I would like the AR-3a, but powering the beast is a worry. I've been looking at the Dynaco ST-70, and Fisher model 400, 500-C, and 800-C as possible choices, but wanted to hear what the forum's experience is with driving these speakers with tube amps. So, what combos have you seen in your lifetime? Thanks, -Jack
  5. Roy, I do have some experience in crossover design, so I know it's not as simple as dropping em in and letting em rip, haha. I have just been curious as I read through the threads as this seems to be a real issue (as you well know, based on your posts) and I figured I'd see if anyone had thought to try that model yet. $120 a pair??? Oooof. I thought I got screwed. -Jack
  6. Got it. Now you understand my fear of making that first post, haha. Thanks for the heads up! -Jack
  7. I did some forum searching, a lot of good info out there! I was wondering if anyone had done any testing or tried out this model? http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl....amp;ctab=2#Tabs The reviews really talk it up, and they have the full specs in .pdf format. I couldn't find it specifically when I searched (a few other Vifa models, though). -Jack
  8. Actually, it was because I added a bit at the end of my post asking if anyone was trying to get rid of any drivers (mostly joking), but wanted / for sale posts are not allowed in the speaker section over there. Thanks again everyone for your support! Will keep you posted as this pans out. -Jack
  9. Hey all, Called him today and he said he had NO idea about the driver swap. He said they were in the house when he bought it in the early 80's, and he only used them with a cheap low-watt amp to listen to the radio while working in the basement. He never hooked them up to a proper amplifier. When he went to sell them, his son told him they were valuable, but instead of going the ebay route, he put them on craigslist for half of what he saw as the ebay price of $250. His english is not 100% but I think he understood the situation. He just had serious eye surgery (I was told of this when I was picking them up) and needs a week to recover. I'll be bringing them back for him to inspect in person sometime next week. He said he'd give me a call when he was feeling better. I'll call on Tuesday if he hasn't already (1 week from the surgery date). Hopefully I'll be able to get the majority if not all of my money back. I'll be sure to bring a picture of what a true AR-2ax looks like with the grill off. The one 2ax still has some of the label on the back, and, if I'm reading it right, was made in 10/73. I believe that would put it in the "new" 2ax category. Thanks for your help, all! If anyone has any other suggestions for the situation, feel free to let me know! -Jack
  10. Thanks, this just made my day Seriously, if I can't get him to take them back, what would be redeemable from these cabinets? So far I have the grills and badges, the binding post nuts, at least some of the crossover circuits (maybe)... the el-cheapo drivers can go to my EE roommate, they are the same kind he uses for random side projects. Cabinets for spares / firewood
  11. Wow - very cool! I will be sure to look for these pages. I've done some minor crossover adjusting with a pair of Sansui speakers for fun, but nothing too crazy. Thanks, -Jack
  12. Here are some pictures.... If you are afraid of sad looking speakers turn away now... I also opened up the cab to see what brand the woofer was... looks like we got a no-namer. -Jack
  13. For example, isn't this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ACOUSTIC-RESEARCH-AR-3...=item2c5399cda6 Just a modified version of this tweeter: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=297-417 ?
  14. Hi all, I was curious out there what brands and types of driver people use when replacing blown / missing / wrong drivers in their vintage speakers, when not replacing with a factory driver. My own issue relates to the AR-2ax's I just picked up (different thread). I usually use PartsExpress for drivers, but was curious which drivers produce the closest to "vintage" sound. Thanks, -Jack
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