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AR55

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  1. Pascal, If you can't find an original pair, you may want to consider having a small steel fabricator make a set for you. Below are a couple of pdf's of sketches that I prepared for the fabricator based on the original frames. In the picture below the stand in the middle is original and the ones on the right and left are custom made. I paid the fab shop $125 US to make the pair about 5 years ago, which isn't too bad considering I paid $40/pair for the originals back in 1979. AR-11 Stands Dimensions.pdf AR-11 Stands Isometric.pdf
  2. I not sure opening up the dual dome assembly is a good idea. The lead wires from the tweeter are not just soldered to the tabs that are screwed into the face plate. They are also glued in place. Removing the cover plate could easily break the leads.
  3. I have never found an answer to that question. I replaced the foam in my 9Lsi's base chamber about 10 years ago. The porosity of the foam that I used is definitely not fine - probably close to 30 PPI. I feel that my speakers' base response is deep and clean, so I think that I guessed correctly. If you are interested, Vintage-AR (eBay) sells a foam chamber precut kit for a rather pricey $100. I don't know, however, if their foam is any closer to the original AR spec then what I used.
  4. Attached is the booklet that came with my AR-98Ls'. Recommendations for speaker placement are provided on page 3. I have listened to them placed on the floor and on 12" tall stands. Personally I think that they sound best when placed on the stands. AR-98Ls_Instructions_for_Installation_and_Use.pdf
  5. The 8" lower midrange (200045/210045) for the AR-9Ls, 9Lsi, 98Ls & 98Lsi may also be worth considering as a substitution for the 200001. The spec for the 200001 calls for a measured DC resistance of 5.0 ohms +/- 10%. I measured the resistance of spares I have of both 200045 and the 210045 and they all fell between 4.6 ohms and 4.8 ohms, which falls within the 200001 spec.
  6. Something else to keep in mind when storing drivers is moisture. Excess moisture can be a big contributor to the deterioration of spiders, cones, surrounds, etc. I live in North Florida where during much of the year the outside humidity is over 80%. Even though I store my spare drivers in a conditioned room and have the HVAC system set to keep the inside humidity below 60%, I still place a small silica gel pack in the box.
  7. AR advertising booklet with excerpts of reviews of the AR-10pi, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17 & 18. AR_ADD_Series_The_Critics_Choice_Around_the_World.pdf
  8. I just remembered that the AR emblems for the 98Ls have 2 pins on the back. You can access the pins from the inside of the grill. I used a small nail set to tap them out. I believe that I had to glue them back in place.
  9. I restored a pair of AR-98Ls' a few years back. I got the new grill cloth from vintage-ar on eBay. It's a little darker and a little finer mesh, but It is a very good match to the original grill cloth. The replacement consisted of the following: Remove the AR badge. Mine had a pin on the back and was held in place by friction. CAREFULLY remove the red trim with a X-ACTO knife or small pocket knife. It is not glued in place, but is attached with small brad nails. You have to slowly pop it free at each brad nail. It is time consuming, but I was able to remove the trim on one speaker completely intact. The second trim ring broke at one corner, but you couldn't tell when reassembled. Pound in the brads after the trim and old cloth has been removed. Remove the existing grill cloth and clean away old glue. Attach new grill cloth with GOOP craft contact adhesive. I attached 2 sides first, then the top & bottom, and the corners last. I used small paper binder clips to hold the cloth in place until the glue dried. Take care when attaching the new grill cloth to make sure that the mesh is straight on all sides. This turned out to be easier than I thought it would be. The fabric that I got from vintage-ar stretches easily. Cut away excess cloth and glue red trim in place. Replace 1/2" acoustical foam inside grill, along the top and sides. I have attached a few pictures. Two show the cloth in the process of being replaced on one grill along with front and back views of a finished grill. The last picture is of the finished speaker (I completely sanded and refinished the veneer). I got these speakers for only $400. The cabinets and grills were very beat up (they had originally been used in a covered outdoor bar and had been sitting in a store room for years). Fortunately the dual domes were in very good shape and the midrange and woofer cones only needed new surrounds.
  10. There are repair kits out there, but if it were me I would have it professionally done. Depending on where you live, there may be a speaker repair shop nearby that works on AR's. If not, you might try Millersound (http://www.millersound.net/index.html).
  11. Below are specs for the 200001 and 200037 woofers that I pulled from the AR archives: 8-inch_Woofer_Spec-AR-15.TIF 8-inch Woofer Spec-100037.TIF
  12. In an recent post regarding the AR-15's woofer, I noted that the Simply Speakers option may be an OK replacement for the original 200001 woofer. It has a poly-cone and probably has a stiffer suspension, but the specs appear to be similar to those of the 200001. If you want to stay with an authentic AR woofer, the following list may be of help (the 200037/210037 & 200050/210050 look to be updated versions of the 200001): The 200001 was also used in the AR-4, 4x, 6, 7, 15, 16, 17, 18, 25 and 94 (not 94s). The 200037/210037 was used in the AR-18b, 18s, 28s & AV-18. I've seen these show up often on eBay. The 200050/210050 was used in the AR-28b, 20, 25bxi, 38b & 38bxi.
  13. The AR-25 and the AR-28b are essentially the same speaker. They have the same drivers and each comes with just a single capacitor in the crossover (6uf vs 5uf). The AR-25 has a slightly greater internal volume, but that is about it. So I would expect that they sound about the very much the same. As I stated earlier, I have compared the AR-28b to the AR-15. I found the AR-15 to be a much more accurate speaker then the AR-28b, so I would expect the same results when comparing the AR-25 to the AR-15.
  14. The Speaker Exchange option looks like its a replacement for the 8" midrange in the 4 ohm, AR-9Lsi & 98Lsi, and probably would not be a good option for the 15. The Simply Speakers option may be OK. The specs are similar to those of 200001, but it has a poly-cone and probably has a stiffer suspension. I would still recommend trying to see if you can find authentic AR woofers. The same 200001 woofer that was used in the AR-15, was also used in the AR-7, 16, 17, 18 and 94 (not 94s). The 200037/210037 was used in the AR-18b, 18s, 28s, AV-18. I've seen these show up often on eBay. The 200050/210050 was used in the AR-28b, 25bxi, 38b & 38bxi.
  15. First of all, I would not recommend modifying the AR-15 crossover. I have both the AR-15 and AR-28b, which are both 2-way speakers with 8" woofers. The 28b has a very simple, one capacitor, crossover, while the AR-15's is quite complex. I have compared the two side-by-side and the 28b's sound does not come close to the sound of the 15's. I know part of the difference is the dome tweeter in the 15's, but I believe the crossover has an even greater impact. As far as woofer options, the 200037 is a good alternate to the 200001. The 200050 is also an option. You asked for a spec on the AR-15's woofer. Attached are specs that I pulled from the archive drawings. One is a little hard to read, but it should help. 8-inch_Woofer_Spec-AR-15.TIF 8-inch Woofer Spec-100037.TIF
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