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ra.ra

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  1. The crossover pic you showed on p.2 of this thread is the later 2ax with the same woofer and tweeter as your speakers, and you can see that the colored wiring is consistent with these schematics - - - i.e., opposite polarity for woofer. Your crossover assembly work appears top-notch, but I have no experience with those particular cap components, and the issue of bypass caps will be met with equal measures of enthusiasm, skepticism, and scorn. Some will praise the resultant synergistic balance and airy brilliance; others will claim that "it can't hurt"; and still another crowd will refer to this practice as claptrap, rubbish, bunk, hogwash, poppycock, or flapdoodle. You're having fun and doing great work and that's what matters - - - I am sure you'll get these speakers sounding as good as they are already looking. Keep it up and report back.
  2. Thanks for both responses. I am aware of the coil used with this replacement driver, but perhaps I have not been following all of the latest thoughts regarding the best cap value for the Hi-Vi install, and my confusion was trying to understand which configuration der had adopted for his 3a project. I know RoyC has continued to share his evolving recommendations on this matter, to which we are all grateful.
  3. Re-coning is a reasonably involved process often required due to significant damage to a driver, whereas re-foaming is relatively simple and essentially a form of periodic maintenance. I assume your work refers to re-foaming here. There seem to be a number of versions of the AR-93, so it would be helpful here if you could document the particular model you have. Noting part numbers for the 8-inch drivers and details of the crossover might be very useful. Also, it is easy to add pics to your thread (100kb jpeg files are more than satisfactory), and that is always appreciated in this forum as well as helpful for your project. AR-9 series?........are we talking about the same family of tweeters? I think the pic attached below is the p/n 038 tweeter that the OP has mentioned - - - this has a 3-1/2" dia. faceplate and a 2-3/8" dia. magnet. Now I recall your project after seeing this thread again - - I don't believe you had any AR drivers at all left in those speakers, is that correct?
  4. Hi der, I always enjoy reading your posts, but I cannot understand exactly what you are saying here for the third time. Earlier, you mentioned having some 6.2uF caps - - - are you saying your new tweeter circuits have no cap at all, or simply that you have not replaced the old cap with a new cap? Which type of original caps do (did) your 3a's have for the tweeter, and have you evaluated them in any way?
  5. Your work on the cabinets looks terrific, and the re-foam appears very good, too. For comparative purposes only, I am including another good 2ax schematic with a few comments: this diagram was made to document earlier version with cloth woofer and phenolic tweeter see Note 1 - - 2ax woofer is meant to have opposite polarity from mid-tweet wiring see Note 3 - - it appears that someone else has encountered a series resistor on the mid (+) terminal - - this would not "increase output of tweeter", but rather would tame the midrange a bit to alter the output balance between these two smaller drivers in order to avoid the tight fit of multiple wires into a female mini-spade at the L-pad, the alternate location for the resistor is to solder directly across the rear terminals on the tweeter, as was recommended in the previous post which provided the first 2ax schematic I'd be curious to know in greater detail what you are using to create multi-cap values of 4uF and 6uF. Also, in case I overlooked it, what material are you using for the new crossover panel that is so glossy? Thx.
  6. Brownie, am not sure what you're saying here - - - upgrade? - - - are your tweeters non-functional, or are you dissatisfied with the originals? Everyone's entitled to an opinion, but I find this statement perplexing, too. I think this family of 1-1/4" tweeters are terrific, and AR engineers must have found them quite satisfactory as well since versions of this tweeter found their way into at least a dozen speaker models over a number of years.
  7. This pic using foreign pots is from the thread I tagged earlier, which makes no mention of altering the original attachment plate.
  8. Take a look at this current thread which uses robust foreign pots which are about 1-3/8" diameter.
  9. I had meant to comment earlier to say how nice this new circuit work has been done. Also, I admire the use of those truss-head screws for fastening the new panel, and I really appreciate your sharing the specific switch product that was used. I get all confused trying to translate the schematic to the actual switch terminals, and your pics are helpful at getting a better understanding of this arrangement.
  10. Yes, that is a very good schematic diagram and I wish I could remember who produced it and shared it for common use. It appears to be very current, since it shows the resistor only on the mid but not on the tweeter. And while I do like those slender, robust green resistors, I neglected to mention that I think these are not available in the 25-ohm value, so I am pleased that Roy has clarified the need to adhere to this value for "original" replication.
  11. I like using the thin green resistors made by Jantzen, Mundorf, and Lynk, and because of their length and ample lead wires, my own preference would be to install it directly to the backside of the driver and solder in place. Not sure who provided this diagram, but the attached schematic clearly shows how the added resistor could be located either at the L-pad or on the driver.
  12. One more before the bell strikes....
  13. Hey, those are my 2ax speakers which were re-built almost 7-1/2 years ago! Thx for sharing. Not sure what happened to my post (now showing up as blank ?) from last Wednesday, but your progress since then is very impressive. My previous comments were meant to state that classic AR speakers were generally not sold as "pairs", and that the several minor differences that you have uncovered should not be considered particularly unusual. Most likely, these two speakers were assembled during different batch runs several weeks apart, and the minor differentiations simply reflect components which were obtained from different sources. I was a bit surprised to see two different materials used for cabinet stuffing, but that multi-colored material was found in many Euro AR's and is original. For the sake of consistency, my inclination would probably be to replace both speakers with new fiberglass, which according to AR assembly drawing for the 2ax, should be 27 ounces per cabinet. You are receiving plenty of good advice here, and your cabinet refinishing work looks terrific. No expert here, but I've often thought that the walnut veneer found on the Euro-produced cabinets has distinct differences from the walnut cabinets manufactured in the U.S. - - - could this simply reflect the distinctions between American Walnut and English Walnut species?
  14. Apologies for off topic comment, but on the following page in that 1976 Stereo Review issue was the introduction of this new product.
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