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ra.ra

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About ra.ra

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  1. Yeah, those thick copper plates and cast metal baskets are impressive. Odd speakers indeed, but a great story with a happy ending.
  2. Hey Lou, whaddya mean?....this ad says the Grenadiers "blend with any decor". BTW, is there a speaker somewhere in this advert? Not sure if I've ever heard an Empire speaker, but I certainly do remember the "unique" design styling of that series. While the aesthetic may not be everyone's cup-of-tea, from what I've seen, some of these models had some impressive looking drivers inside. Your offer is very generous and I hope someone comes along to give them a good home. I suspect the engineering of these products is solid, but the styling marketing remains somewhat suspect - - in the cartoon pic attached, we see a sleek horizontal credenza amidst a room of modern furnishings but then flanked by a couple of stunted classical Doric columns. Just for information, the third image shows the innards of a model 9000 Grenadier, and what caught my interest was that the cabinet enclosure was designed with seven (7) - - not six (6), not eight (8) - - but seven, side panels. This decision certainly created significant fabrication difficulties and unpopular cost implications, so this must've been solely an engineering performance criterion, and that kind of product decision-making has to be admired, even if the product line never did gain a large audience.
  3. KLH 17, variance in impedance, pair of tweeters

    Not much further to add here, but it sounds like you guys are chasing the obvious suspects - - if the problem is "ringing" or "buzzing", I'd be checking metal components and mechanical connections. Usually these KLH woofers are very well constructed, and it's rare for a surround or spider glue joint give way which might create some unwanted "flapping" noise, which could be characterized as "buzzing". And these cabinets are usually so stuffed with FG that I can't really imagine those unglued caps rattling about. Have you been able to isolate each tweeter to confirm that each of them seems to be performing properly? Good-looking pair of KLH speakers, I hope you can get to the bottom of this nuisance. And that Scott amp is a real beauty, too - - was it the 299's from this era that had the most horsepower?
  4. AR9LS Refoam question

    Thx for sharing the great pics. I looked up the drawing for the 045 driver (lower midrange), and by every appearance it is fully identical to the 050 driver (woofer) in my pics. However, the critical moving parts (spider/coil and cone/surround) have different designations, so clearly these components were tweaked to complement their respective cabinet enclosures. The two drawings show the same date (April '82), and the 045 was used only in the two models you have mentioned. No idea what the hole in the magnet is about. The section drawing for the 045 driver (attached) does not show any void at this location. Re: dust cap and shimming, I did not like having to cut and re-glue this cap but it was the method I chose and it worked for me. It's entirely possible you will have equal success with another method. And while it is true that some 8" AR drivers have a dual cap, this particularly woofer/mid has only a single dust cap, even though the drawings list this item as "dust cap, appearance". I've never seen so much corrosion on a metal basket as your 12" drivers have, and it would be my assumption that that indicates improper long-term storage and/or prolonged exposure to a harsh atmospheric environment. The clean-up of your 8" basket looks terrific, but they really should not require a protective spray coating. If you choose to do so, I'd recommend not coating the basket rim where the outer foam perimeter gets glued to metal.
  5. AR9LS Refoam question

    Not quite sure what you mean by this statement, but everything else that you and AR55 have noted suggests this is AR part number 200050, which was also used as the woofer in the AR-28b, as shown in my pics here. And yep, the spider is installed flush with the rear flat portion of the metal basket. You can see in this pic that the stiff paper cone has a seam opposite from the wire leads; and when I re-foamed, I hinge cut the original dust cap in order to shim the VC, and then carefully glued it back in place. This procedure is a little bit delicate, but not particularly difficult, and I found it very helpful to be able to shim and hold the cone in the "up" position when gluing the inner foam under the cone.
  6. Used to Work at Cizek

    Hey Thrift-flea, that was a great first post, welcome aboard. Although I cannot claim to know Sheldon or Phyllis or Lenny or Roy, I certainly did know Bloomington in the early 70's, and this idea that Cizek speakers originated there and then is something that escaped me at that time but does interest me today.
  7. Bought one pine early AR3a.....

    This is so true, and rather ironic that the low-budget "utility" finish for AR classics is now highly sought after within certain circles. Thx for the links above - - those are very good tech bulletins. I suppose I should not have said "technically" since these two terms are virtually interchangeable within the industry, but I think you know what I meant - - I was referring to the distinction of an outer decorative layer as opposed to the core of the panel product - - you know, the lipstick on the pig. The veneer grading literature describes standards for decorative plywood, but I have doubts that the pine panels used for AR utility cabinets would conform to these standards.
  8. Bought one pine early AR3a.....

    My experiences with wood bleaches have been reasonably successful, but with speaker restorations I've only used it to lighten the dreaded dark water stains too often found on walnut veneer. And in those instances, the product I used was procured from a hardware store and not from a woodworker store. This info was posted here before in a thread on AR-4's, but it's good to know about this product - - it is very inexpensive, and even though the company promotes no prescription for use on wood, the oxalic acid content is in effect a mild wood bleach. I have only used the original powder, made into a slurry for this use, but it is very gentle and easy to use. Larry, you should check it out - - it's origins occurred over 120 years ago over a pot of cooked rhubarb (yes, really!), and to this day it is manufactured in your capital city. https://www.barkeepersfriend.com/about-us/our-story/ I'm in full agreement with most of your statements about the problematic deep-soak stain in this outer layer of pine, but technically, it is not a veneer. It is simply the outer layer - - or ply - - of a pretty-good grade of manufactured construction plywood. Nonetheless, this outer surface of this material has very limited acceptable finish options, IMO. While I'll be very interested to see the results of any applications of antiquing or almond oil paint, my thoughts at this point would be heading in this direction.
  9. Bought one pine early AR3a.....

    Yes, very nice job cleaning up those AR-5's JeffS. It sounds like you are making a valiant effort, L-cat, and your description here of this pine is pretty much what was feared you might encounter. Chemical remover, steaming, wood bleach and sanding . . . you're trying everything - - what else is there? Yes, please share pics when you get the chance - - it will be interesting to see just how deep these dark stains have affected the pine.
  10. Hi, New With New To Me AR-2ax Pair

    This thread has been very enjoyable to follow from the very beginning, but what has struck me most is the sheer number of hits and posts that it has received in such a short period of time. Thousands! Yes, the 2ax is among AR's very most popular models from the 'classic' era, but I believe it is the enthusiastic and respectful tone and expertise of the OP that characterizes the uniqueness of this thread. sarals, best wishes from me for a full and speedy recovery, and like you, I owned a pair of AR-4x's in college in the '72-73 time frame. In fact, I still have mine and play them often. Get well soon.
  11. Bought one pine early AR3a.....

    Good luck with this attempt, but it will most likely be a significant challenge. I have a pair of AR-4x pine cabs that were heavily painted, and with a lot of work, I was able to get them looking pretty good, but removing paint is very different from removing stain. Mostly true, but with these cabinets having a birch solid nosing and sitting horizontally on a deep bookshelf, I think they would offer a gorgeous alternative to the usual walnut and more walnut, ad infinitum. I like all of the blondies in pine or birch or korina. Even better looking than the 3a's in pine is this pair of 3's in pine. If they were mine, they'd be on display front and center - - it would be a shame to hide these away inside a "more aesthetic'"enclosure.
  12. KLH 17, variance in impedance, pair of tweeters

    This is a great question, N, but one that I am unable to offer much assistance with, even as I struggle with this same question on my own recent KLH restoration project (link attached). My confusion is compounded by at least two factors. First, I am unsure how (and possibly unable) to measure a new PP cap's ESR, and there is no available data on the original cap's ESR from which to compare. Second, these tweeters are 40+ years old and have possibly diminished in output over the years, so we are no longer working with laboratory-level originals that can be expected to be performing like they did on Day 1 after factory inspection. In these instances, it's sometimes agreed that it's best to eke out every bit of HF you can from these aged drivers. Others with more electronics experience should be able to offer more explicit advice, but your question is a very good one. In my case, I've been enjoying the tweeter output produced with a new generic film cap, but I am still experimenting with the external damping regarding dispersion. Your speakers look great, best of luck. http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?/topic/10078-klh-model-thirty-two-loudspeaker/
  13. the aillson 4 blues..help needed

    Very good tip, thanks.
  14. the aillson 4 blues..help needed

    Since these models came later than the original One thru Six models, I was reluctant to post this but it may be helpful to someone here. This page from the 1982 brochure cites a difference in cooling material for these tweeters: ferrofluid for the two-way model Seven, and silicone for the three-way models Eight and Nine, and this seems to be reflected in the power handling specs.
  15. the aillson 4 blues..help needed

    Hi LesE, I saw one of your posts on AK about this, but are you certain that the tweeters are in fact different drivers among these models? The graphs you've provided are in the CSP Library, too, but with the models Five and Six included. The One, Two, and Three models are indeed three-ways, with crossover frequencies at 350 and 3750 Hz. The Four, Five, and Six are two-ways with x-o at 2000Hz. This information would suggest that the two-way and three-way tweeters might very well be different drivers, despite their identical appearance. But while I am not experienced with various Allison models, this note below from the Allison Six description led me to think that the tweeters were all the same driver part, and that the different crossover frequencies were accomplished through different crossover components (cap value?) associated with the tweeter. Can anyone provide schematics or crossover pics of these models?
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