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ra.ra

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About ra.ra

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  1. ra.ra

    Another AR-3a restoration

    Nice to see this detail - - and I agree with Larry - - a solid wire nut connection works fine for this purpose, and I've been re-building my speakers with this technique for the exact reason that JKent has already stated (future removal and access). Just be sure you put the Kimpac in before you connect the wire nuts. This 3a restoration project looks really good. Don't think I recall seeing you use Audyn caps before, but I know a speaker manufacturer in these parts that strongly advocates for this line of (red) Audyn caps. His opinion is that they offer excellent performance vs. cost value, and I'll probably be using this brand soon in some upcoming projects. Thanks for the meter info. That B&K meter looks pretty nice, and I've been thinking about trying one of those little cheapies, too, but I'm trying to find one that has a provision for wire leads with alligator clip. Thx Roy, I'll keep this in mind next time I poke my head into the pair I'll be working on.
  2. I usually make every attempt to re-use the original material unless it is substantially tattered, but regular kitchen cheesecloth will even work in a pinch and it is very flexible and form-fitting. If you plan to replace the original stuffing with new long-strand FG, this issue may be somewhat less relevant if your woofers have screen segments covering the voids in the woofer basket.
  3. ra.ra

    AR22BX Woofer Drivers

    Hi Meerkat, These speakers are from the mid-to-late 80's, so it is perfectly normal for the foams to have deteriorated. Nonetheless, having rotted foams is usually not sufficient reason to "toss" the original woofers and begin a search for new replacement drivers. This is a mistake that many people have made and lived to regret. Your TNG drivers might be factory replacements, or perhaps Tonegen was providing original drivers to AR in these years. The 072 part is the important part to identify that particular woofer, but I would discourage you at this time from conducting a search to find similar part number replacements since it is quite possible that even those might require new foams. Instead, I think JKent offers sound advice to attempt to re-foam these yourself or with assistance from a local audio shop. I believe these are 8-inch woofers, and replacement foams should be available regardless of which continent you are living in. Regarding re-foam, the thing to be aware of is these woofers have polypropylene cones, so you want to be certain that you use an appropriate glue that will bond with this material. Also, because of age, it might be prudent to consider replacing original capacitors. Schematic diagram is attached.
  4. ra.ra

    AR 18LS for free… worth restoring?

    Welcome to the forum. Pics can be uploaded easily: keep file size small (100KB) and use jpg format works for me. Those are great little speakers - - they are the Euro version of the AR-18s that were sold in the USA. Replace the foams and the single 5uF cap (simplest crossover ever) and you'll be very pleasantly surprised. The tweeters are terrific and the bass output is impressive. This thread discusses the AR-18s. http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?/topic/9699-ar-18s-speakers/ I am unable to comment on the other gear.
  5. ra.ra

    AR3a grills

    Velcro is indeed a multi-use miracle invention, and it works very well for holding grilles in place, yet I think only one pair of my modest collection of AR's still uses (original) Velcro strips for this purpose. First used as a temporary 'fix' but now a more long-lasting solution, I have resorted to making various type of thin, small shims to wedge in the gap between the grille frame and the cabinet perimeter to hold the grille firmly in place. When they are dark in color and properly sized and wedged into place, they are virtually invisible. These shims are cut from material scrap, sometimes thin cardboard and sometimes craft felt - - I think I even used flexible roll cork at least once.
  6. ra.ra

    Another AR-3a restoration

    Sounds like a really good project and I'll be interested to follow your efforts. Similarly, I'll be working on a pair of 3a's in the coming months with a friend of mine. This pair has great cabinets, grilles and badges. Have only conducted a brief cursory test/inspection, but all drivers are functional and pots are very crunchy and intermittent. These are consecutive serial numbers in the 461XX range and have the first generation ferrite-foam woofer (Fig A.2 in 3a restoration guide) and the brick-size double 50/150 cap. Probably next month we'll dig into these for a closer inspection, put together a parts list, and get to work. I'd be curious to know about the type of meter you're using for cap measurements, since I've never been fully comfortable with my meter for this application. Also, didn't the change in coil coincide with the change from alnico/cloth to ferrite/foam woofer?
  7. ra.ra

    AR 2ax Advice Please

    Aadams has most likely identified your problem - - it sounds like one T-nut in each speaker has lost its grip and is now spinning in place, and that linked thread is a very good reference. The plywood is generally better at maintaining its integrity than particle board, but it is a real PITA any time this situation arises. You'll need to proceed carefully in order to not damage any drivers. One suggestion might be to use a pair of needle-nose vise grips on the offending screw head, and to exert some slight pulling force on the grips while trying to turn the screw - - this will sometimes secure the nut long enough to allow the threads to begin to disengage. As an added measure to avoid this situation in the future, anytime I have a cabinet open, I always apply a smear of two-part epoxy over the backside of the T-nut to bond it to the front panel material.
  8. ra.ra

    AR3’s for sale in California

    Beautiful speakers. Cards show no zip codes.......pre 1963 date?
  9. ra.ra

    Crossover issues AR-2AX

    Not at all.....in fact, I was thinking about your thread earlier when I read about Mark's problem. It is very easy to make these sort of wiring mistakes. I always need to check, re-check, and triple check my wiring connections in most every project. Still, there is a "buzzing" problem here....
  10. ra.ra

    Crossover issues AR-2AX

    Shot-in-the-dark: This is not simple to diagnose, but if these are early 2ax's with cloth surround woofers, the buzz problem could be from the masonite ring coming loose from the cast metal basket. If so, need to re-glue. Could also be similar situation at masonite ring under the spider. ...but of course these could be the later foam surround woofers.... OP needs to clarify particular components.
  11. ra.ra

    Crossover issues AR-2AX

    I remain a bit confused by the point you are trying to state. The mid driver has a 6uF cap filter that limits lower frequencies reaching this driver to 1400Hz (according to AR literature).
  12. ra.ra

    Appreciation for Roy C!

    Ditto to everything stated thus far. Roy's contributions here have taught me a great deal. They are always offered with specific detail, good humor, and humility, but mostly, it is his enthusiasm and generosity that truly sets him apart.
  13. ra.ra

    Crossover issues AR-2AX

    Hi Mark, and welcome to the forum. While I'm not exactly sure what Aadams is driving at, I do know that you have incorrectly installed the capacitors - - - the tweeter circuit uses the smaller (4uF) value while the midrange employs the larger (6uF) value in all versions of the 2ax speaker. Maybe you can please describe why you think the Peerless is an "upgrade" over the Hi-Vi and what you are trying to achieve with this replacement- - - adding pics to your post is always helpful.
  14. ra.ra

    Design Acoustics PS-10

    Just wanted to post this comment found on the AK forum regarding DA PS-10's. Unfortch, there were no pics to show how he achieved the re-cap. "BTW- I did a recap on a pair of PS-10 crossovers. Just for S's&G's I measured the capacitance and ESR values on the original caps. All the original caps measured within tolerance for capacitance and the ESR was well under .5 ohms also. The crossover capacitors may be the last place to do your troubleshooting based on my experience. Just FYI." Also, starting on page 4 of this thread, you can see the stands that Glenn built for his PS-10's. https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/lets-see-your-home-made-speaker-stands-im-going-to-build-some.457303/page-4
  15. ra.ra

    Design Acoustics PS-10

    Re: "A" designation, I suspected there was something you had discovered that we were unable to see, and I would tend to agree with your interpretation of the serial numbers. And yes, I think I recall reading a reasonably positive review from Glenn regarding the PS-10. Even before I provided any supplemental pics, my well-informed DA source (located in CA) was able to describe and/or confirm that all of my D-4 drivers are indeed original. I have read the same overall diagnosis about DA after AT purchased the company, but the general decline may have begun even earlier, as described in the D-4 to D-4a transition. About the caps, I'm not quite sure what to report, but like yourself, I would be real hesitant to dig into that tight mass of crossover assembly in the PS-10's. In my case, both pairs of D-4's have two caps per cabinet: a cheap tiny 4uF tweeter cap attached to the terminal panel, and a larger midrange cap (20uF in one pair; 33uF in the other) located deep inside the cabinet next to its driver. None have yet been removed and/or measured. The tweeter caps will be replaced without question because these panels need to be fully rebuilt due to broken switches and weak binding posts. The different values found in the mid caps are a bit of a mystery, but after some exchanges with my "source" regarding the particular drivers and the designer's basic philosophy, we've agreed that the 20uF with its higher x-o frequency is probably preferable. Nonetheless, due to their location in these cabinets, these will be a challenge to replace, as I'll be doing all of this without removing the iron-clad front grilles.
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