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About Aadams

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  1. Unqualified Yes to the first question and recommended Yes to the second. Adams
  2. I'll try this. The soldering will be done by someone else but I can handle the 2x4 part. I shouldn't be surprised. There's always a 2x4 and duct tape lurking in the background.
  3. Thanks. I have read about some adventures doing what you describe. Desoldering the binding posts attachment in situ is apparently a real pain and requires technique . If I were more experienced with more than basic tools perhaps I would try pulling the pc board but the odds are heavily in favor of my shipping the boards for repair, so I am looking for the best way get the masonite board out whole and reusable if possible. Adams
  4. There are no threads that I can find on removal of this style crossover seen below. These are images of an AR98ls crossover. It looks to me like installing the Lsi components on this board will require the removal of the entire masonite panel. Does anyone here have suggestions for a "best practice" or perhaps "techniques to avoid" in removing the masonite panel and PC board without damage? The picture of the board on the right is an example exactly like the ones in my cabinets. Adams
  5. Have you read this thread? This is part of Carl's great legacy to us. About halfway down the first page is his opinion on old Sprague Compulytics. It seems odd to me that all of your Compulytics of same value measure out out of tolerance by same amount, in light of Carl's recommendation and experience with these specific old caps. I would not have touched them but truthfully I think at this point you could go new or old NPE and never hear the difference. It is not worth the effort to experiment as there will be no big payoff either way unless one of the Spragues is truly off. You might replace the tweeter caps with new as a compromise. For Pot replacements look at this thread at the bottom of the first page.
  6. Good point can't believe I forgot that. Here is an image from the interior of an AR5 like yours
  7. I was a pot holdout for years for the sake of originality. My recommendation would be to replace all of the pots with Lpads. The LPads are trouble free and give finer control. The current thinking is the resistor should be on the mid range LPad but only on the tweeter LPad if the tweeter has been rebuilt. There are some good looking and well reviewed after market pots available that some members here have used. This relates to the above question and is why the current advice is to NOT use a resistor if your tweeter has NOT been rebuilt. Your tweeter may look perfect and operate but the chance is 99% that it is no where close to original performance. Not using the resistor allows the moribund tweeter output to be boosted somewhat. If it breaks you get it repaired and then put resistors on the circuit. I have my tweeter lpads with resistors turned up full (bypassed) on all my rebuilt tweeters. It won't kill them. You can do more harm with a tone control IMO. This is a ticking bomb. MY two cents: I replace original with original which means I use NPE s in these old speakers. And it is not about the money. I want to remain original. Wait for responses from others. I can be eccentric. Adams
  8. If everything is working properly the AR3 and AR5 should sound similar but the better sound will be a subjective choice. On many recordings the AR5 will have an edge in low mid range clarity. I agree with DavidR. Recent discussions on AR3 restorations have included the need for tweeter and mid range refurbishment. If your AR5 has an original tweeter it too needs rebuilding to perform correctly, assuming it has not already been done or you could install the HiVi mod. Aadams
  9. Does anyone here have a pair of 98LS crossovers or a pair of AR98LSi crossovers for sale? If 98LS boards, I prefer the masonite version but the PC board version might be acceptable. Adams
  10. This Roy Allison paper was passed to me when I had a similar question. A 3a woofer was used to produce the data. In your situation fig 2 curves A and B tell you a lot. http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library/allison/other/technical_articles_by_roy_f/technical_articles_by_roy_f_18.html#previous-photo
  11. Aadams


    They look genuine and ready play from what you show. If you want more info you will need more photos. Adams
  12. Speaker Works in Eugene Oregon has a good reputation and a comparatively substantial web presence.
  13. This is the most recent comprehensive discussion of the 3a 3/4" tweeter topic. Page 2
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