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Aadams

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  1. Ligs I don’t know for sure because the placement of the 98 when running through the crossover was always baffle toward the listener and above 100hz. After the mod I placed it in exactly the same spot where the 1w sat but woofer on the floor as described. The bass gain remained exactly where the 1w gain was set. My initial subjective perception is, after playing Flight of The Cosmic Hippo and a good sampling of other music, the bass is not quite as strong at the low extreme as the 1w but the 98 bass is overall smoother. When the 1w was in the same position, woofer down but 1 ft above the floor, it set off objectionable room modes at the listening position and thus always sat inverted and was raised as shown below which was quite satisfactory. I have never installed a 3a/1w cab directly on the floor. Adams
  2. You may already know this but JIC , you can purchase Argentium silver crimps from jewelry hobby suppliers but I haven't seen 24 gauge. The price is not onerous. I don't know why tin coated base metal would not work. Adams
  3. The AR98LS has been modified to achieve its highest purpose at my house. It is now a passive subwoofer, which means the internal crossover has been bypassed and the woofer directly wired to the amplifier with the active crossover set at 200hz in this case. The woofer sits very low in the 98LS cabinet which was intended to be placed on the floor and against the wall, but I turned it sideways so the baffle is perpendicular to both reflective surfaces. The bass is very smooth. No peaks or dips that I can detect by ear from the listening position. The 98ls system required too much effort to fit into my scheme of things. Without an equalizer it is not a great sounding speaker, in fact it is harsh. With an equalizer, the adjustments that must be made aren’t of the minor fine-tuning category but gross adjustments in bands that are just not normal for a linear speaker. The modification I performed is completely and easily reversable. No harm was done to the original speaker system save one tiny hole that can be made to vanish with little effort. The AR1w pair has been re-jumpered to an AR3a which now sits next to the AR5 and Satstack. Now, with the 98Ls off the menu, I am back on the original plan regarding the AR9 and 358 which can also be flipped into a 581w.
  4. Whatever you try, even if you fail, won't be fatal if you are careful not to damage the tweeter body or dome. You have repair, rebuild and replacement options.
  5. That one is tricky and is out of my league. I think soldering is practically out of the question. I have seen pictures of new copper wire crimped to the old wire but I have not done it. I am sure this thread is being watched by someone who has a solution short of a tweeter rebuild. Meanwhile you could connect the clips to the two leads check for tweeter operation, then move on the the other speaker cabinet. Aadams
  6. Because it has a transparent non conductive coating that must be scrapped off if you use a new section. To be clear: You connected clips to these points and could not hear the tweeter?
  7. It looks right to me but you need to wait for others. Do you feel comfortable putting a signal directly on the front wire tweeter terminals? If so you can quickly check for function. Did you by any chance trim off a piece of this coil wire before you reconnected?
  8. Do you mean one tweeter is not working or neither tweeter is working?
  9. Aadams

    AR 2ax Advice Please

    If you don't already have the answer, you might want to find out if a resistor is recommended on the "orange" tweeter lpad. RoyC will know. It won't be fatal if you don't use one. Adams
  10. Problem solved. The AR98ls now has the sound profile of an AR5 without using an equalizer. Eventually, I identified the problem of over-brightness as being totally in the dual dome mid/tweet unit and not the entire 500-7k band but more like 1500 – 7k. My solution was revolutionary and there was lot of trial and error but in the end, I settled on using one layer of felt cloth and three layers of muslin placed in the top 7 inches of the grill which covers both domes but not the 8 inch LMR driver. The 98ls is now, to my ears, a very enjoyable speaker. It still has an expansive quality and its clarity and imaging are better than the 5 but not worlds better. The difference is only obvious at the moment of the AB switch and afterward for as long as you can remember which speaker was last switched. Once you refocus on the music it is easy to lose track of which speaker is operating. This AR98ls is the only AR 4way I have heard with a single front facing 12” woofer. It has a 200hz crossover at the woofer which, with its 4 way configuration, gets the bass out of the mid-range but to get the smoothest bass it is designed to be placed on the floor, its back squarely against a wall or flush mounted in a wall or bookshelf, vertical or horizontal. Floor placement puts the tweeters and mids between 16 to 29 inches off the floor, which seems low to me and is at odds with the AR recommendation to place the tweeters at ear height for listening. There is a shelf/floor switch near the input terminals, but it has nothing to do with bass frequencies. As a passive subwoofer only, the 98ls is not very useful. The 200hz crossover is an impediment because an active crossover point should be at least an octave away from a passive crossover point to limit interference effects, which I have discovered can be audible. For the 98ls the active crossover should be 100hz or below. This means any AR 12inch 3 way from an AR3 through the LSi series would be a better choice for duty as a passive subwoofer because, in those units, the entire bass frequency band, up to the lower mid-range, is available for a crossover choice. The best use for the 98ls IMO, is as a full range speaker, if you can deal with its placement requirements or as a top for a good subwoofer which would give the 98ls greater freedom of placement in the room. It could also be used as a bottom for a good modern two-way speaker crossed over at 400hz but this doesn’t relieve the placement constraints of the front firing woofer and mid. I am still working toward a comparison of the 98ls to the AR9 but have not decided if the 98 will be full range or a bi-amped top.
  11. Aadams

    AR3a grills

    Der If you attach a couple of layers of small linen pieces (tiny) at each corner and mid point of the long edges it will cause a friction fit. You can experiment with strips before you make it more permanent. I accidentally discovered this. It doesn't take much of a bulge to work. Just a thought. Adams
  12. Ligs I was a bit hasty when I said the grills solved the problem. My premature conclusion was based on listening almost exclusively to vocal recordings, when I should have included a good selection of orchestral. Over the last two days I have been listening exclusively to orchestral music and eventually realized French Horns were sounding more like trombones, Trumpets sounded like Piccolo Trumpets and Violins had way too much sheen on the high strings when heard through the 98s. Nothing offensive to the ears but it just wasn’t right. Bottom line is, even with the grills and absorbent foam, I must lower the entire 500 to 7k band about 2db to bring the 98 into line with the 3a, 5 and the CR65 stack. Other than that, my previous opinion is unchanged. It is an excellent imaging speaker with an expansive sound but not at the AR Classic level of expansiveness. This equalizer issue makes it much more inconvenient for me to directly compare the 98 to the AR9. I wish AR had given the 98ls more attention before they released it into the wild. Aadams
  13. Ligs I believe you were correct. I finished repairing the 98ls grills today and re-installed sound absorbing material around the inside edge to replace the original foam that had rotted. I put the grills in place and discovered that the grills of the AR98ls are an integral part of the speaker system. They were instantly transformed into what I had expected them to be from the outset. I lowered the bass crossover to 100hz and compared them to the AR5s that I like so much. It is now very easy to dial them into the AR5s using only volume controls and with zero equalizer adjustments. When grills are off, I must lower the entire band between 500hz to 5000hz two to three decibels to get them where I want which is like turning down the mid control on an AR3a, practically the same adjustment over the same band of frequencies. They also are bit more focused, akin to an AR9 but they also sound expansive, similar to an AR Classic dome but without the muss and fuss of attenuators. The material with which I lined the grills is ½ inch polystyrene pipe insulation. I don’t know how it compares in performance to the original foam, but it works for my needs, is readily available and easily fits in the space with double sided tape. The 1985 Audio review of the 98ls was performed with grills off. The reviewer must have had a very dead listening space or ears of steel or didn’t care. The review sounds perfunctory anyway, like he was making a deadline but he did give it good marks for imaging and I agree. The big leap here is a single front facing 12" with the mid range neutrality of a properly setup, flush mounted 3a or an AR5, but with a bit more clarity and lot more power handling. So here is another free tweak that has nothing to do with mods. If you own an LS series and you are missing the interior grill surround foam then you are probably not hearing the speakers in the way they were intended. I will be moving these 98s into the room with the AR9s to compare imaging. Combined with the AR58s for bass they will become AR9858s but I still haven’t moved the amps. Aadams
  14. Aadams

    AR 2ax Advice Please

  15. Aadams

    AR 2ax Advice Please

    Thread drift alert!!!!!!!!!!! The OP is clearly not as OLD experienced as some here and innocently provided a hook for a possible thread hijack on a topic which does nothing to get his speakers repaired. Adams
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