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Aadams

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  1. Aadams

    AR-5 crossover cap (mid and woofer) question

    This thread has everything you need in pictures see page 1 and page 2
  2. Ligs What is the approx. model year for those JBLs 36ii and are they ported? I found them but no dates. That six inch speaker will strain down low IMO. Was it playing full range or do you have the low range constrained as with the JBL 10"? Otherwise I am not surprised the 10" sounds more relaxed at higher sound levels. Adams
  3. Aadams

    AR Connoisseur rebuild

    You didn't give much info. You may be able to correct it by shimming before you apply the new surround, If you have already applied the new surround you can still shim but cleanly removing the current surround to apply a new one will be a challenge and you should shim before starting IMO. If the voice coil is truly damaged you can get it repaired.
  4. Aadams

    AR-LST

    IMO if you want to sell them (on this site) you should post grills-off photos in the For Sale/Wanted forum and state your location for pick up because of the impracticality of shipping them any distance. Also IMO, assuming they are good candidates for restoration, unless you can show provenance indicating they have been expertly refurbished, you will be better off leaving them alone if you intend to sell here. They are best left unmolested and original for selling purposes. Without question, all eight tweeters will need rebuilding even if, in your opinion, they seem to operate. New units are not available. Min $500 Beautifully restored pairs from trusted sources can go for $4000 if you are willing to wait on a buyer. Someone here recently bought an unrestored pair off craigslist for around $500 IIRC. Adams
  5. Point taken. I am making a statement about the cost to cover the bottom bottom 2 1/2 octaves comparable to an AR9. Just pointing out good subs that are highly adaptable for home music applications are uncommon and expensive. They are much more expensive than using a an AR 12inch or an OLA as a passive sub-woofer for satellites. Of the three elements required for the passive solution only the AR 12" would not meet the criterion but taken together the bass system would be 66% new.
  6. I just finished doing another survey of the sub-woofer landscape, both powered and passive, for home music applications. Not much has changed in the last couple of years Criteria for selection are 1 Essentially flat between 32hz and 220hz 2. low pass variable from 30 to 200hz 3. Selectable between 12 and 24db/octave slope 4. XLR, high level, and RCA connections preferable. Here are some random listed conclusions. Minimum price for above criteria appears to be $1500/pair for factory modified Hsu Mk2 subs. The modification would extend the low pass from the standard 90hz to up 200hz. The variable crossover range would be 30-200hz. Mod is $50 per unit with 24db/octave slope only. SVS 1000 and 2000 hit the mark except they are strictly 12db/octave. New passive subs for home audio do not appear to be available except in kit form and even then, there are very few choices. Almost all powered subs are optimized for HT use. On paper most do not appear to offer sufficiently flexible adjustments to blend with the wide range of satellites that could be used for critical music listening. Exceptions are: SVS PCB and Ultras beginning at $2000/ pair Revel Performa beginning at $4400/ pair Conclusion: IMO the best value currently is an AR12” AS with a DSP amp and a 31 band equalizer or an Allison ESW if you can find one. Feel free to change my mind by providing new facts that I may have overlooked. Adams
  7. I recommend you do a swap of the drivers in question. Just move each to the other box and see if the problem moves. If it doesn't move the problem is not in the speaker driver. JMO. Adams
  8. Does the JBL127h1 have a cut freq or is it allowed to roll off below a 100Hz? Aadams
  9. Thanks for the page, without which I am not sure I could have decoded the above statement. What I think you are saying is the 1259s are flat to 32hz and the HSU goes below that. At first I thought you were saying the JBL 10" was flat to 32. Do you have a shelf on the JBLs or do they just roll off to the 1259s? The subs you have are no longer available except used and finding match used pairs is near impossible and few sellers will ship. Here is another version using new equipment and XLR connections to a HSU sub which looks like a good value. I just need something that is flat to 32hz.
  10. Are you using two of these with the NHTs? Below is an image of what I am currently thinking The link out phone jack passes the entire input signal to the next device in line. The speakers outputs would only see the high pass band say 160hz and above as specified by the onboard DSP. The sub woofer freq control would then be set to 160HZ. Slopes on both systems are 24db/octave.
  11. Good article. Moran’s description of the symphonic bass drum hit exactly describes what I hear easily on my AR9s and only slightly on my other systems. I believe that separate powered sub woofers can produce bass far lower than I practically need for music. The problem with powered subwoofers for me has been my inability to make them integrate pleasingly for music playback in stereo. I think I could have eventually found a solution for my hybrid system by shopping in the $1000/unit range but by then I had stumbled upon a passive solution in the AR58 cabinets. If I ever do move to powered subs I will still use a DSP amp to set the high pass frequency and bypass the subwoofer crossover. Luckily, I won’t have a problem so long as I don’t outlive my speakers. For the foreseeable future I can still find plenty of AR 12” to serve as passive units in the event I lose mine. Still, it would be nice to experiment with a couple of powered subs but I am already out of space for systems and the cost for new, just to experiment, is just not reasonable IMO. I don't have family that is remotely interested in owning any of this stuff, if given to them. I am in a bind until I rationalize my way out. Was that the entire article? It had an abrupt ending. Adams
  12. If you have read previous posts you know I did a same room comparison and established that the Sat Stack compares well against the my 9s and 3as. Over the last 2 months I have tried to volume equalize the 9s, 5a and the Sat Stack using the 9s as the volume level base line. The basic procedure uses adjacent listening rooms as follows. Music source and equalizer settings are identical for all systems AR5 Tweeter control max AR5 Mid control is about 75% max AR9 controls are Zeroed Sat Stack has no attenuators but is set down 3db at 1000hz 12db per octave slope on an in line equalizer Listening distance for all systems is about 8 ft Volume level is low enough to not be easily heard from the adjacent room This may seem klugey but I have no help in doing this. 1. Set the volume level for the AR9s at 8ft 2. Set the volume for either of the other two systems until, when walking from one room to the other there is no apparent volume drop Results: On instrumental music of any kind that I have tried there is no difference that I can discern except for the occasional obvious low bass on the AR 9s. Playing song after song of mostly non-classical solo voice did reveal differences but I don’t know how to describe them. All three systems sound almost identical. If the test were blind I don’t know if I could reliably identify them when switched but in the absence of a helper, the best I can do is say the Sat Stack with its more modern drivers seems to have an edge over the others on recordings of solo voice. Bottom line. If I lost my ARs I could get back to an AR sound eventually using more modern equipment though I don’t know what I would use for a woofer. Adams
  13. I thought someone more expert would have answered by now. That looks like a whizzer cone ... One voice coil with two cones. The small cone helps extend the high range of the larger speaker. I always, perhaps incorrectly, associated whizzer cones with radios and cheap utility speakers. IMO that is not a correct replacement even if it will fit but by now you should already know the answer. How does it sound? Adams
  14. Aadams

    AR-5 crossover questions

    The restoration guide has everything you need except advice that was not available about tweeters at the time it was composed. Even if your tweeters operate they will almost certainly need rebuilding to restore the sound to very near original. Your options are 1 the proven Hi Vi replacement mod or 2 a Chris1 rebuild of the originals. IMO above 60hz AR never made a better sounding speaker, especially for human voice or acoustic instrument sound reproduction if all of the original drivers are operating properly. Your original caps are not Sprague Compulytics but appear to be ICC of Chicago. My advice is to replace them. Adams
  15. I read the articles about the speakers with on board DSPs. IMO it doesn't make sense from a hobbyists standpoint because the DSP can't be reprogrammed but it is an advantage for the consumer because the DSP is customized to operate with a single amp per stereo side. DSPs outboard with respect to the speaker, would be perfect for a hobbyist wanting to select and test a variety of drivers in combination. Passive speakers in combo with outboard DSPs is a more flexible arrangement but requires an amp per pass band on each channel. I think the line array systems setup on big music venue sound stages are done this way. At home it would not be any different than bi-amping, tri-amping or even quad- amping a stereo pair of speakers but the crossover would be entirely outboard and programmable. Speaker system manufacturers could bypass or eliminate passive crossovers and specify the recommended crossover settings to be set in an outboard DSP crossover. Edit: Just found a nerd thread from 2017 about this very topic. https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/crossover-less-passive-speakers.1951/ Adams
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