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About alkermes

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  • Birthday February 2

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    Beverly, MA

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  1. Depending on the reading, It could tell you if something is obviously seriously wrong. And if it is seriously off, chances are a simple adjustment won't fix it. All in all, I think your best bet is to bring it into a shop and have them check it out for you. It will save you time and effort just to head directly to a the repair shop. And maybe money too, because if you try to do any work on it and don't know what you are doing, it's likely to make it worse. I'm going to bet that's what you are thinking anyway. Let us know how things turn out. The 9090 is one of the classic receivers of its era, putting some money into will not be wasted.
  2. An even more specifically: Welcome to the Genesis Club! (hmm, does that sound kind of sketchy?) I have Genesis II's, they are good all around speakers.
  3. If you have a multi-meter you could do a check for DC as I mentioned above. A quick check via Audiokarma and here are some quick picks. I don't know Michigan, maybe one of these shops is near you, they had some happy customers. - Keego Harbor Mike at Northern TV in Madison Heights. (248) 545-1800 ecotopia in West Bloomfield. "looking at their website, it may seem odd and cheap, but they're pretty legit when it comes to their vintage electronics"
  4. good luck! BTW, in all likelihood those old can caps are no longer any good. Unlike the AR-1's ;-)
  5. Nice pickin's. The Scott R77S is a fine receiver, not well known but very well made and is sure to be an excellent performer for you.
  6. OK, they are done. I used them for a few days after the re-foam with the original caps in place. I have had the new caps in place now for a few days. The original Callins caps actually measured very well, the ESR was very good, they did not need to be replaced for wear and tear reasons. The speakers perform quite astonishingly well. With my back turned to them, I imagine they are at least 2x as big as they are. If I had a small space and had to pick one set of speakers to live with, these would do nicely. I have been mentally comparing them to the 4's and 4x's I owned, as being roughly the same size. I admire the 4 series for doing what they do, given the era, but the 18's are a big step up (in my humble opinion). I was never really satisfied with the 4's as I am with these. Here is the re-foamed speaker with the tweeter screw heads cleaned up, and a photo of the crossover with Erse 4uf & 2uf caps paralleled.
  7. Yupp, 16 screws are used to attach the baffle board. Here's a closeup photo of one of the woofer screws, you can see the t-nut attachment. The previous woofer pic show the screw heads from the back side of the woofer. I don't recall now if I needed to buy new screws or not, it's been a while but I believe I had to do some hole fixin' to go back to the original woofers.
  8. Detours are always welcome! I just started working on the woofers, the woofer part number is 200001-1 as in L-B's photo above. I also pulled the tweeter, part number is 200014-3. After I get the foams on I'll give them a spin with the original caps to test them out. I was planning on replacing the terminals, but just received a missing nut & washer from Kent along with a few other goodies, so I may keep them original. On the other hand, these speakers are so easy to work with, it would be easy to swap them around any time.
  9. I recently put my Rectilinear III's up for sale during my early Spring speaker clearance sale. But thanks to a fellow Rectilinear enthusiast, I've decided to keep them for now. I shared this story with him, and thought it would be worth posting here. Some background on these. I don't remember why, but I developed an interest in these speakers even though I had never heard of them before. I checked Craig's List from time to time and eventually found a pair in NH near Jaffrey in July 2012. I drove up there after work. They were being sold by an elderly man who looked like he was getting ready to move. At that point I didn't know anything about these speakers, or much about speakers in general. But I did recognize that they were not completely original. One of the woofers had a funny tweeter thing inside it. The other speaker's woofer had a deteriorated foam surround. I figured one of these was the correct woofer, the other not. The funny thing (especially in retrospect) is that they did sound pretty good as they were. He looked like he really needed the money so I didn't even bother bargaining with him. Well, it turned out that neither woofer was original. Rectilinear used woofers with cloth surrounds. One of the drivers was a University tri-axial speaker, such as was used in the tube days in an infinite baffle enclosure. The other was a late 50's Wharfedale woofer with an incredibly heavy magnet. And it turned out whoever did this work cut the wires in the crossovers and rearranged things so that nothing was working except the woofers. What a mess! I found some photos off the internet that matched up with the version of the crossover in my speakers (there were some different variations). Using these photos as my reference I recapped and re-wired. One of the super tweeters had a small hole in it, I found a replacement for it, then eventually was able to buy a pair of woofers that matched the versions used in this highboy. I used them for a while in my basement, then moved them upstairs to my son's bedroom, but they never got the full listening treatment, as I had during the interval found a lovely pair of Snell II's and really loved them. During my 2017 spring cleaning sale I moved the highboys into another room and had them standing side by side next to each other, and during some critical listening tests discovered that the sound was not really equal from each speaker. After playing around with them for a while, it finally dawned on me that one of the speakers was not putting out bass equivalent to the other; in fact the woofer seemed to be putting out more of a mid-range sound. So I took them off the market and went back inside the speakers, researched crossovers again, drew out the wiring patterns and compared. What I discovered was a real surprise to me; when I reassembled the speakers, I crossed the mid and woofer leads going to one of the terminal strips on the baffle board. I put these back to rights, and presto, the speaker was back in the game. This discovery resolved a mystery for me - the pot for the mid had been operating in reverse. Back then I figured I must have wired the pot in reverse, I never suspected I was using the mid as a woofer, or whatever it was that was going on inside. And there you have it, a rather long story, it took a while to get them sorted, and for me to recognize my error. So now at last they are getting put to real use and to the test. I am impressed at how smooth they sound. The bass could be a little tighter, but it may be the listening space and how they are set up in the room. So there you have it, a rather long winded story. I hope you find it interesting. NB: The odd looking dark pattern that looks like a stain is much darker in the photo than to the human eye. The grill cloth is definitely 70's!
  10. Jeff, your comment about foam grilles reminds me that you are probably familiar with the Mission 700's. I have a pair of one of the earlier versions, they used foam too, but just a slab, not formed like the 18's grilles. The speakers are of a similar size, but the Missions are ported and the woofer and tweeter are inverted....very different philosophy, but united by foam.
  11. Lots of interesting responses, this has been fun, and I haven't even played them yet! The surrounds were ordered last night and went out in the mail today, so they should get here in a few days. I'll post the driver #'s when I pull them out of the frames. I have some of the black Erse caps, I'll use them as I have them on hand. The cap is a 6uf. The grilles pass the thumb rub test :-) I think I may just try airing them outside, out of the sun, and see if the smell dissipates on its own. Good to know about the UV. Direct sustained sunlight seems to be best for plants alone.
  12. Thanks guys for the great advice! Here is a photo of the foam grill. in real life it's a nice brown color. Amazingly enough they look great.
  13. The 2ax's are coming along nicely. I finished one and am listening to the pair now. The speaker with the new caps and l-pads is definitely clearer in the mid to upper frequencies. For the crossover/l-pad rebuild I decided to solder wire extensions to the new components and tied them together to the old wires with wire nuts. The insides now look like the wiring inside a vintage British motor car (with apologies to our UK friends). It would be nice to put some knobs on the l-pads, I did some searching and didn't find any recommendations. Anyone have anything they like to use?
  14. Just picked up a pair of AR-18's based on the favorable comments I've read here. I was surprised at how small they were. I am curious to see how they compare to the older 4x's. The vinyl wrap is in nice shape, it's actually pretty nice looking. The crossover could not be simpler, unless they left the switch out. I had a few questions... As you can see the tweeter screws are rusty, just cosmetics but I'd like to replace them, are they are standard size? Foams need replacing, I was thinking of trying the SpeakerWorks foams as I read here that they were liked. I'm happy to go with someone else though. The foam grilles, or whatever the material is, are actually in perfect shape. However, they do smell darned musty from long term basement storage. Is it safe to wash these? To reseal the woofers, is it OK to use the duct sealant like for the 3a's etc.? I have a lot of that left over! Would it be worth it to replace the poly fill with fiberglass? As a part of the restore, I will recap and update the speaker terminals to modern binding posts.
  15. I'm not so sure your receiver is to blame. It has protection circuitry that prevents excessive DC damage to your speakers. To verify, disconnect your speakers. Attach an multimeter to the terminals, turn on the receiver and measure the DC voltage at the speaker terminals. The voltage should be less that 100mv, the closer to 0mv the better. If the DC voltage is OK, then one has to suspect the known variable, which is that someone worked on your crossover. It's possible they screwed it up.