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  1. From my research, Human used whatever they had in stock at the time. Many owners have the same thing of different basket and cone papers. Bass was really bad/less on these and turns out, I connected one woofer out of phase. Once that's corrected, they sounded really nice and balanced. Not as much bass as JBL's but not lacking either. Next, I replaced the capacitor. However, the crossover/terminal cup is a ****. Terminal cup can only come from the back but the binding posts protruding inside prevent it from coming out. So instead, I soldered and hot glued within the cabinet. I was thinking of replacing resistors as I have them as well but need to take terminal cup out and need to disassemble the terminal posts so not this time. Hot glue gave me a middle finger. :mad: When I took the glue gun out of the woofer hole, a big drop landed on my middle finger and now I have a big blister right below the nail. Swapped the woofers from top to low and put some wood glue on the bottom stands as the small MDF base is pretty weak in few areas. Original crossover: Original capacitor also is poly so might have been okay but not as good as new since it's 37 years old now. New capacitor along with old capacitor on the side: They sound really good so far. Nice highs and mids and slightly less bass than I like but after listening a while, it doesn't come into mind. :thmbsp:
  2. Looking at the picture I noticed few things: If you check the drivers' back, the two on the right have rough back while the two on the left have smooth. The right drivers also have ring indentation 1/2" in the cone while left drivers are completely smooth. They both are from the same speaker. Looks like slight difference depending upon the date as some have sept and some have oct date on them. Looks like the ones from Sept have rough back. May be different batch. Hmm... All have 8 on the sides and date stamped on the back. I need to check other pictures later. Also noticed that some driver baskets have holes in the inner metal frame while others don't. Right front and left back drivers' frames have holes. Not sure what's the point of having a hole there. May be to hold terminals? The part of the frame where the hole is, is wider than the ones with no hole. Weird... what say you?
  3. I listened to the 1000 towers. Very impressive size but sound was not that impressive. It was half feet taller than me. Here is the picture I took:
  4. Yes, TE series are PITB to refoam. The foam backing on the poly cone peels off and hard to stick the new foam. Also TE series is not as good as the older series as the tweeter and drivers both are different. I have a pair of TE 280 that is waiting refoam. Foam is still there but not strong. They sound decent compared to other smaller TE series I have. Burhoe tweeter ones are the good ones.
  5. Mystery

    Epicure 20+

    Yes, not much info on this model. These are quite rare compared to the ubiquitous 100v's. Here is my thread on 20+: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?showtopic=7817
  6. I got these Epicure 20+ speakers in November 2012 but never got around fixing these until now. These are the higher model of the famous EPI 100's that everyone raves about. Think of these as two EPI 100's, one on top and one on the side. They are in decent shape besides few scratches/dings and some MDF break issue on the bottom stand panels. Grill covers are missing EPI logo. However, shocked to see duct tape surrounds on them. He said he used them like that for a while and took them out of one speaker to take pictures for listing. Let's hope VC is okay. BTW, the sticker says 20 - not + but these are + looking at Human site. Top is slanted towards the front. Link to specs: http://www.humanspeakers.com/cgi-bin/page.pl?page=e/epicure-20.txt Fast forward 2 years: Finally, these got some attention after almost 2 years. Duct tape came off without using anything. If they were anything harder, I'd have used some hair dryer heat but it worked great as is. I had to be careful though. I put pressure on the cone otherwise it could deform the cone. Just put pressure where you are pulling and peel it off slowly by moving the pressure accordingly. As you can see, PO used a lot of duct tape, multiple layers of it. :rage: Cleaned drivers: Gravity has its effect on the drivers as noticeable in the picture. Front two cones are lower drivers and have cones up high than the drivers in the back. The drivers on top that sit almost horizontal have spiders little bit sagging while the spiders of the lower vertical drivers still come out and hold the cone much higher. Back of drivers: Some have Sept 26 1977 date while others have Oct (Almost my age ) Refoamed to the cone and waiting for glue to set: Refoamed to the basket using test tone, no cutting shims. BTW, they are filled with fiberglass or batting really tight. I had to push the drivers against the batting. Let them set overnight and plugged everything together this morning. Man these tweeters are quite amazing. Male voices have that natural roughness most other tweeters struggle to produce. Great highs and mids but bass is not as much as I expected from their size but my setup is not ideal so that is something to consider. Next is to upgrade capacitor and epoxy magnets sometimes in the future... These also have the same magnet shift issue as Polk drivers. Also need to fix few screw holes as they have disintegrated. May need metal rings if the screw holes won't work with some wood filler and glue? Here is finished product: Need to wipe down duct tape marks and wash grills... I also flipped the drivers 180 degrees where possible. Some drivers had no give on the wires so couldn't flip all the way but did as much as possible. And need to cull the herd even more :wink: Highs are really good. Very smooth overall sound and lots of airy details. I had to bump the bass little bit to bring it up to the level of the JBL L80t3 that are standing next to them. It may get better after the new foam loosens little bit. Just finished this morning and listened to about 1/2 hour before heading to work so need to spend more time. These are slightly inefficient compared to JBL and Polks. Also, need to upgrade the capacitor as it's 37 years old. These have the simplest crossover. Just one capacitor. I already have the capacitor so will do soon. Wanted to hear how they sound as is to compare later. So far very engaging and smooth sound.
  7. What about weight? None of the brochures found here and online mention their weight. I think LA/NLA are around 39lbs each and Smaller advent is around 25-29 lbs, not sure.
  8. What about weight? None of the brochures found here and online mention their weight. I think LA/NLA are around 39lbs each and Smaller advent is around 25-29 lbs, not sure.
  9. These were top of the line in that series and have amazing sound. I like them a lot specially for long term listening due to their smooth sound but need to pass them on due to limited space. Also, I can't use them to their potential due to small room. They are in excellent condition except one speaker is missing one terminal cap and connector plates. I'm using speaker wire to connect bi-amp terminals and work fine or can get terminal cup with connector plate very cheap online, around $10 at parts-express. Thank you Too heavy to ship. $325. Specifications: High performance 3-way, floorstanding loudspeaker Bi-Wireable!! A feature only found in high end speakers. Frequency Response: 40-20,000 Hz Impedence 8 Ohms Dual 8" Copolymer bass drivers offer extended excursion 1" CFT soft dome tweeter 6.5" Copolymer Midrange Tight, point-source driver alignment for precise imaging and wider dispersion MagnaGuard® magnetic shielding prevents video interference Heavily braced cabinets eliminate unwanted resonance Reference-quality Boston Sound™ Recommended Amplifier Power: 15-150 Watts Dimensions: 42.1/2" H x 10.1/4" W x 12.1/8" D Weight: 65 lbs each Color: Black Ash
  10. I refoamed Smaller Advents last week using AA battery and it's perfect. I've never cut dust caps. I use either 30 hz tone or AA battery. Both method work great but now I like battery as it doesn't vibrate the surrounds while glue sets. I've done around a dozen so far including JBL L100T the same way and all are a success and never had to shim. Edit: added picture.
  11. Okay, they are 20+ as other versions don't have that switch for tweeter level. Will update thread when I get around working on them. Thanks
  12. Thank you for comment Gerry. Did you mean that A400's should be placed as far apart in the room as possible whereas T1030 can be placed closer when you mentioned the boundaries? Also, should both pairs be toed in or just place front facing? Thanks
  13. Thanks Kent, I think PO just pulled the tapes off the cones. There is no residue, no visible damage and all drivers do work. The madisound capacitors are the cheapest Polypropelene I've seen. I was thinking of using Dayton or Solen etc... that are $4 each. What about the model number? Are these 20 - or +. I didn't see the - version online.
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