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  1. I don't know how people can review the Emotiva gear as "crunchy". It is clear, crisp, and analytical...yes. It is not the "warmest" sounding equipment, but I don't prefer that anyway. The Emotiva gear puts out what is put in, everything I have ever heard out of my system has sounded exactly as it should from it's source...in my opinion. For the price point I do not believe there is any competition. Is there better, yes, most likely...will I ever spend more money than I have on the Emotiva setup? No. The differences between other very high end solid state equipment and my low cost Emotiva gear is so subtle (if it's even there at all), that I can not justify ever spending more...my ears just aren't good enough...or I have not convinced myself that the difference is there just because a piece of gear costs 10-20x what mine does. I did remove the factory 2500uf capacitor, but replaced them with two 1000uf and one 500uf capacitors in parallel. I will have to try removing the 2500uf capacitance network that I built and see if my Emo gear has got the "balls". That's going to be interesting.
  2. Thank you David. Looking at my old receipts, here are the parts used in my refurbishment: Madisound: 4ea m1000 Bennic 1000 mfd Electrolytic Caps $10.25ea, total $41.00 2ea 25r5.6 5.6 ohm, 25 watt Wirewound Resistor $0.65ea, total $1.30 Parts Express; 2ea 027-426 Dayton Audio DMPC-8.2 8.2uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor $3.37ea, total $6.74 2ea 027-438 Dayton Audio DMPC-25 25uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor $7.08ea, total $14.16 2ea 027-442 Dayton Audio DMPC-40 40uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor $10.77ea, total $21.54 2ea 027-427 Dayton Audio DMPC-6.2 6.2uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor $2.83ea, total $5.66 4ea 027-378 500uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor $7.25ea, total $29.00 2ea 027-446 Dayton Audio DMPC-90 90uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor $23.35ea, total $46.70 2ea 027-441 Dayton Audio DMPC-33 33uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor $10.14ea, total $20.28 2ea 027-421 Dayton Audio DMPC-4.0 4.0uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor $2.01ea, total $4.02 22ea 027-452 Dayton Audio DFFC-0.10 0.10uF 400V By-Pass Capacitor $0.97ea, total $21.34
  3. Welcome! Where are you at in AK? I'm out in Eagle River and restored my AR9's within the last year. Very nice job on those, love the stands too!!
  4. Here's some in Chicago; http://www.ebay.com/itm/Working-ACOUSTIC-RESEARCH-AR9-4-Way-Stereo-Floor-Speakers-Needs-Refoamed-/400570370532
  5. I saw these and figured somebody may be interested in them. If I were close, within even 6 hours...I'd go snag em! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acoustic-Research-AR9-AR-9-Speakers-Need-Repair-See-Pictures-PICK-UP-ONLY-/141055412347?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item20d78ec87b
  6. Have you already purchased the XPA-2? Emotiva puts on spectacular sales, and you may be able to get XPA-1's at quite a good deal, or an XPR-2. The other thing to watch is the emotivalounge announcements for when they are doing warehouse sales. I've bought much great equipment through them on either warehouse sales, which typically prices items at about half off (scratch and dent, or refurbished items), or the website sales on new equipment. Sign up for their email mailing list and keep an eye on; http://emotivalounge.proboards.com/board/48/news-updates for warehouse sales. If you ever find yourself in Alaska, feel free to contact me, I'll set up an audition for you! Thank you for the compliment, by the way. I listen to all types, from the '50s to the 00's, classical, jazz, country, rock, techno, and even dubstep. I'm pretty diverse...just don't ask me to play any of that rap crap or whatever that "pop" garbage that most of this current generation is listening to. You are quite welcome for the advice on spike placement.
  7. The XPA-2 may be sufficient to play modestly, but it won't bring those 9's fully to life. I run my 9's with XPA-1's, which are the monoblocks, so naturally I have two of them. I can tell you, the 9's love 500,600,700 watts RMS... Check out my AR9 restoration thread. You can see the end result nearer the end of the thread. I attached my spikes in the same fashion. My 9's had some countersunk screws in the base of it with fairly pre drilled holes functioning as the countersink, I couldnt see any functional use to the screws, so I took the screws out and put the inserts in the hole that was already there. No drilling required in my case. These are the spikes I used; http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=240-660
  8. So, I need to confess, out of curiosity, I added spikes to the speakers. I added the spikes and put the speakers back on the granite plinths. The speakers are angled at about 5* toed in. They sit about 8 feet from each other, 5 feet from one wall, and 25 feet from another wall. They sit 18" out from the rear wall. I have a vaulted ceiling and large, open space. Not a very ideal listening room to be honest. Anyway, before the spikes I felt like I was having a hard time getting to the super low bass notes like I wanted to. I tried different speaker positions, etc...everything I could think of and the speakers were just lack luster in the bass department. Not what I was hoping for. Well, spikes added, I cranked them up to about 600 watts RMS and the bass just flooded over me. I was sitting on my couch laughing as some incredible low bass from either the Tron soundtrack, or the Inception soundtrack pounded me with authority. Needless to say, I am impressed. Never thought little spikes would do that for me. I have to completely eat my previous words about spikes...they are worth every penny (even though I bought the cheapest set I could find)!
  9. More is always better. I feed mine with 1000 watt monoblocks and they eat up the power. They just sound better and better the louder they are. And oh, that sweet bass....I can vibrate floorboards all over my house, actually, I can vibrate anything in my house...and my neighbors. Have fun with the project! Take a look at my restoration thread!
  10. I do not believe that more expensive caps are better. I used Daytons with a bunch of bypass Daytons and could not be happier. I don't think I spent more than $350 in caps, new foam, and grille cloth. You can see the external results, but I sure do wish you could hear the results I got as well! You do not need to add resistors to compensate for small capacitor differences. Most are 10% variance anyway. This. I love Howards RAF and FNW.
  11. Ok, so no drivers with the cabinets. Bummer. Id offer the guy $25-50 for them if I was close. The pictures are post flood I believe, and the cabs don't look beyond repair. It would all depend on the shape of the MDF behind the veneer. I'd fix the cabs, throw AB tech replacements in it, and whatever other drivers I could find on ebay, and just live with em.
  12. In my opinion, it's always easier to start with the simple solution and work towards a more difficult one. So, that said, I did not sand. I did numerous coats of the RAF and the grain leveled out after absorbing so much, so I felt no need to sand. I'd suggest trying the RAF as it's easy to apply and cheap. If that doesnt work, then sand and re-finish in whichever fashion you like, oiled or stained.
  13. My example would be this. Restored is on the left and right is not restored. I used Dark Walnut Howards Restore-A-Finish and Howards Feed-N-Wax.
  14. I don't know if this guy has all the drivers as well, but this water damage wouldn't really scare me off. I guess it just depends how bad the cabs are. If he has all the drivers and the cabs are repairable, this could be a good project for somebody! http://bit.ly/WLbcw8
  15. I know that the 200029-1 part number is the tweeter number in my AR-9's. Ah, I'd love to buy a couple from ya if you decide to sell.
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