DavidR

Glenn is a wizard when it comes to cabinet restorations. His advice helped me save a pair of AR9s that had water damaged MDF and veneer lifting.

I've used the Mundorf ECap70 (made by FTCAP in Germany) in my 90s and 10Pi BUT I parallel them with a 0.01uF Vishay 1837. There is really not much difference listening to either of those speakers vs my 91s with Clarity CSA + AudioCap Theta 0.01uF in parallel. Perhaps a little bit more clarity (no pun intended) and detail with the film caps. You can get the ECaps, Vishay and Clarity from Parts Connextion and they only charge a dollar per pair to do matching. They do the best job of matching.

When you bundle/parallel caps to attain a specific value you decrease the ESR. I prefer paralleling resistors to get the desired watts. Like for my 90's I needed a 20 watt resistor at 6 ohms. I used two 12 ohm at 12 watts each giving me 6 ohms, 24 watts handling.

I've used both electrolytic and film caps in several AR speaker recaps. My AR91's are film. Using cheap film caps in a series position will, for some of us, be very disappointing. There are several reasons for this none of which are subjective. I decided to use NPE (electrolytic) in my AR10Pi because I wanted them to sound as much as possible to original as the crossovers were designed for NPE caps. However, I did add a small film cap (0.01uF) in parallel on both series caps. There is not much difference (if any) between the 91s and 10Pi. If anything there is a marginal improvement in detail and clarity with the 91s. When I recapped my AR90s I used NPE based on those results. I also added the small value film cap to the series caps. Mundorf ECap70 (not made by Mundorf but are labeled as Mundorf), Parts Express (MDL), Bennic and MDL are all pretty much the same. The Mundorf and MDL have a bit better measurements on my meter as far as dissipation factor, Quality factor, etc.

I have a pair of the 200045 (1-210045OB) 8 inch woofer that I harvested from some AR94 speakers. They are the same type as used in the LS and LSi series with a treated paper cone. The voice coil DCR is 4.5 and 4.6 ohms. I noticed that the Tonegen numbers are different.

Its recommend to just list the Item Number for eBay items. Congrats on finding a pair of the 200027 LMRs.

I've used the Dayton (made by MDL) and they are fine. Mundorf has some ECap70 NPE that I use on the smaller values. The larger value Mundorfs don't have a sufficient voltage rating compared to what AR used. CSP member Harry398 has done several AR restorations and used the Dayton NPE and he was always happy. You might drop him a PM for his thoughts.

Have you considered Emotiva: https://emotiva.com/collections/amps

Have you considered a tube amp. I run a Bob Latino VTA ST-120 with my 10Pi. SWEET ! I know someone selling some M125 monoblocks. Similar to the pic below.

I've removed bad dents from tweeter domes by using a tube that fits over the dome and sucking on the other end (no jokes please). I also apply a small amount of isopropanol but I think the mid domes have a different coating and material. Or try to stick a thin strand of duct tape and yank it off quickly. And a third option is a very small drop/dot of Goop, wait for it to cure and tug on it gently.

<edit for double post>

Those small value mylar caps show up on late production boards. Attached pic> one on an AR90 board.

Happy Holidays

I have 500wpc current pusher into 4 ohm amp in a Class AB, dual mono design and modern. High damping factor. Killer with the 9s and 90s

Mask it off like I did to my 9's. I used both painters tape and masking tape.