DavidR

Try to find an EZ-out extractor. They screw-in in reverse and once they bite it will turn the screw out. - OR - If you have an allen wrench you don't are about and if it fits in the hole you can epoxy it with JB Weld Epoxy and turn it out once given plenty of time to cure.

Thanks for all the links Stimpy.

I used the Midwest tweeters in my 10Pi. The one that failed was the 200011 and the other was a replacement that was 200084 IIRC. I could not hear a difference between the Midwest tweeter and the AR 200084. I am asking for opinions as our AR speakers are getting old and ferro-fluid is drying up. I'm not aware of anyone repairing the 200028 or 200032 UMR and the 200029 tweeter. There is one member who had some success with the 200029 tweeter. We may have to turn to other options.

Has anyone tried either of these AR replacement drivers from Simply Speakers? Mid/UMR: https://www.simplyspeakers.com/acoustic-research-replacement-midrange-12100103.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuNzQ0LGP5AIVAYvICh3RlAdxEAQYASABEgKsHfD_BwE 12" woofer: https://www.simplyspeakers.com/acoustic-research-replacement-woofer-12100032.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuNzQ0LGP5AIVAYvICh3RlAdxEAQYBCABEgKzBvD_BwE Thoughts/Opinions I'm using this tweeter from Midwest Speaker and it's pretty nice: https://www.midwestspeakerrepair.com/shop/home-audio/tweeters/dome/mw-audio-mt-4121-75-inch-dome-tweeter/

The foam inserts seem to be missing from most 9's. Mine are no different. Yes, the 90's inserts are a bit different.

I went early this morning to see a pair of AR9s that were for sale. They are original and a solid 9 out of 10 - or better. Even the grilles have the original material and only 2 tiny holes at corners - one on the upper left of the face grille and the other on a corner of a woofer grille. They really don't show. The surrounds on the woofers and LMR have Simply Speakers surrounds. These are way to thick to be correct compliance. They will be changed at some point. All the drivers are original to the cabinets - so I was told. The basket frames were painted black when the surrounds were replaced. They are early versions with the pegs in the cabinets just like the pair I picked up along with the 10Pi speakers last winter. Twice during the demo I thought I heard brief distortion at low volume but it was not present at higher volume. Not sure if it was me, the gear or a driver. I wasn't worried about it due to them being in such GOOD cosmetic condition.One of the woofers has a patch due to someone puncturing it. Only the upper xover boards have been re-capped. I have yet to hook them up at home. I haven't decided where to put them. I tweaked my back bringing them in the house so I'm not rushing to move them right away. Trying to get my son to temporarily take the 91s and get them out of my way in my office where I have the 90s, 91s and 10Pi (smallest room in the house). Here are a few pictures. Simply Speakers surround Time to finish the first set and sell them. They are not as nice cosmetically.

I second that

Thanks for the replies. I bought the PE replacements but you never know if you'll ever need a spare. I'm able to get a thin putty knife under the lip but it does budge upward much. Pliers feels like it will break the ball from the base. No sockets on the grille panels, just wood frames with a hole. I'm definitely going to reverse the peg and sockets.

Does anyone know how to remove the grille pegs without damaging them or the cabinet?

But you have to remove the staples first and that can be a time consuming PITA

Using a soldering iron will create lots of smoke and who knows what they used to make that old hot melt. It's a bit different than today's hot melt.

Been there, done that. While doing my 91's but it was not a bad burn. What will alleviate 'issues' is to work slowly, methodically and have zero expectations of how much work/progress you expect to make. I also had a good LED light inside the speaker.

Do it in place. The hot melt glue holding the caps down can be made pliable by dribbling a small amount of isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) on it. Loosen caps with a small putty knife or screw driver. Work slowly and smart.

Translation into English>>> "I disassembled several AR6's and, on two European production pairs, I found a filter scheme, which uses a 0.880 mH coil, for the 200001-1 woofer, and the 10 mF Sprague on the external wireless tweeter, phase inverted . On the woofer the 24 mF is not installed nor the 10 ohm R. All the crossover is a 6db / oct, and installs a three-position selector with 3 ohm 10W R."