DavidR

Both 2 ohm resistors appear to be connected to the 100uF cap. So the other end/lead of the resistor needs to go to the negative terminal.

That goop on the backside of the binding posts looks like liquid nails. Ugghhhh. Butcher......... They disconnected your woofer zobel. It also looks like some early style of mylar caps (the ones that say Mexico).

Here's a crossover pic from my 91's. It might help as a wiring reference.

Thanks for the idea Jerry. They are my son's and I doubt he'd be interested in that. He was a kid who thought all he ever needed was his Apple mp3 player. Then I gave him my Carver MXR150 receiver and an original pair of Klipsch Heresy with a docking station for his iTouch. You've never seen such a big smile. And today he knows what is better. Also, he loves vinyl the best.

Thought you meant for 610's

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?/topic/9564-ars-tsw-line-1980s/

How much are they selling for?

I don't know about the rest of you but I hate the way they did the xover board. I much prefer the point to point style. On the 610's I'm going to have to un-solder the pcb from the terminal posts (and replace the posts for sure) and will probably relocate the pcb on the bottom of the speaker cabinet using some stand-offs.

And a nice job and documentation on those

I bought a pair of TSW610 for my son. I had to refoam the 12" woofer and 6" mids. They sound pretty decent. We did an A/B test with a pair of AR91. They held their own. Bass was a tad better in the 91 and tweeter was pretty even. The mid on the 91 was much better. My son loves them. <edit> The 91's had been recapped w/ poly film caps but not the 610's

I think some technical info should be included on the more important break thru speakers. But yeah, the people involved. Pictures speak volumes. Good luck. Looking forward the the released product. I ran into a member on the Emotiva website who made voice coils at one of the plants. He lives in NH I believe.

The switches in the 91 move quite freely. Yup and not as old as I am and I'm not as 'precise' as I used to be.

None that I've noticed. However, I'm now on 0dB. I did have an issue with one of my AR90 switches. It was 'stuck' on a -3dB setting. I just worked it back and forth. They have always been very stiff to operate.

Thanks Stimpy !

< UPDATE > Occasionally I will rotate my 91s into my office system replacing the 90s. I had recapped the 91s using all Dayton polypro caps and found I liked the detail and clarity BUT always found that after about 1/2 hour they'd get under my skin and I couldn't listen anymore - Listener Fatigue - despite having the level contour switches in the -3dB position. Recently I mentioned this to our Member AR Surround who had his own recap adventure with his AR9 and 90 speakers. He suggested I put some Dayton Film and Foil 0.01uF bypass caps on the tweeter and mid series caps. I happened to have a pair in my drawer as well as some Vishay 1837 0.01uF caps. So I hauled one of the 91's down to the basement (smashed my finger between the door and the speaker in the process) and installed the bypass caps. A Dayton 0.01uF F&F on the tweeter 4uF cap and a Vishay on the 25uF Dayton for the midrange driver. What a PITA ! Very difficult to wrap the leads while working in the cabinet. It was even worse soldering. I was able to get them sufficiently soldered BUT not the type of work I like to do. I then hauled the 91 back up the stairs and put them both into my reference system for an A/B test. First impression was that the speaker with the bypass caps was duller. Certainly it didn't seem as loud. After some time I got down on the floor and put my ear up to each driver in each cabinet. I now realized what was going on. The non-bypassed speaker has brightness and glare; it was gone from the bypassed speaker. Detail and clarity was actually better in the bypassed speaker. I then lugged the other speaker down to my workshop and installed the bypass caps in that speaker. Back into the system and put both level control switches to 0dB. WOW!!!! The music still has all the clarity and detail...........more detail. The music has more depth and smoothness. A cymbal isnt a chrishhhhhh but rather a nice tishhhhhhh. So happy I did that. I don't know what the bypass caps actually do (electrically) but they do it well. Pictures are before soldering and permanently gluing down with hotmelt: