DavidR

AR58xover.tif

We can only hope they will be a good match. Yes, China. They are good at copying things BUT the end results always depends on if they tried to 'cheat' to save a renminbi.

In a thread I started regarding AR Replacement Drivers RoyC stated that it was NOT a good replacement - Only in a pinch or something to that effect. I contacted MidWest Speaker who makes a very good tweeter replacement and talked them into developing a replacement Mid driver based on that thread and a couple of others. They have a pair of AR 200044 mids and will use those to develop a replacement. They said it could take a year or more before we would see them.

http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/download/INFO_ClarityCap_Technical_Report.pdf http://www.hificritic.com/uploads/2/8/8/0/28808909/classic-sc15-a_passive_role_with_note.pdf

Very good info Stimpy. I remember Carl posting that the 200028 has half the resonance of the 200032. However, IIRC the 200032 and 44 can be used in place of a 200028 but not the other way around. What I'd like to know is how they are able to keep the ferro-fluid on one side of the vc.

Film caps also exhibit microphonics, especially the cheaper ones, and it has been measured and in some cases can be heard. If I can find the article on it I will post it. I asked because the crossover was designed for NPE and an NPE behaves differently than a film to frequency. I capped my 91s with film and my 10Pi with electrolytic and I really can't hear a difference between them. However, the 91's are on a SS amp and the 10Pi on a tube amp. Based on that I recapped my 90's with NPE.

From what I remember the difference is more cosmetic. The 200044 became the AR replacement for the 200028 and 200032.

Why film caps?

Looking GREAT ! Enjoy

My latest pair of AR9's have a white foam tape. It seals very well. I asked the guy I bought them from what it was. He responded: " The material I used to seal the woofers is an adhesive backed closed-cell foam window seal, probably 1/4 in thick X 1/2 in wide. I've used it many times on different speaker projects and it seems to work well. I didn;t like the clay type sealer parts express sells." This guy is a retired audio engineer. As AR Pro said, the caps are old and tired. I just did my 90's that has many of the same caps and the metal can caps were worse than the black/red PVC caps. Even thou some measured at the high-end of the spec or within spec they did not sound good any longer. The dark veil has been lifted and no more dull sounding speakers.

Play them for a while and see if they improve. My 90s didn't impress me at first but are now wonderful.

The only thing that really needs to be checked is the 'can' for the LMR and that can be checked without removing the stuffing. You might have to shift some around or slide your hand up and around the 'can' to make sure it is still tightly glued in place.

I have given some thought to that. We are turning our Living Room into a Family/HT room and the Family Room will become the Living Room. Originally I was going to use the 2nd pair of 9's as fronts and my Bose 901_II as rears and sell the 1st pair of 9's. The issue with that is the bass timber of the 901's are different ( common voice types: Bass, Baritone, Tenor, Alto, Mezzo-Soprano, and Soprano) - the 901s are more Baritone and the AR9's are definitely BASS.

Well, I'm going to put my big 400V Solen (200 and 150uF) caps on eBay. I'll let you know.

Yup and I will usually order from whom ever I need to to get what I need. PITA