DavidR

Hmmmm, not sure. Maybe PM genek - the moderator and ask. I did a karma for some npe caps and I think I used the wanted/for sale forum IIRC

I am not posting there. I no longer have any Carver amps but still have a BillD C-1 and (2) TX-11a and an 11b. RichP sold the site. Some very knowledgeable people here and it's strictly audio.

Welcome Dan

Are you the same Snow that used to post on the carversite?

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/adc-404.389890/

I found this on the ADC 404 speaker.

Here's a link to a chart with the AR speaker models and their specs.> http://www.aphenos.net/electronics/speakers/klh/all_ar.htm

I think its Roy C who actually does the work but I'm not positive about that.

I attached a link to a thread that covers home made stands.

Just in case you misunderstood me> I was not suggesting that your driver was a TSW series cone driver. I was merely stating that the dome mids sound MUCH better than the cone mid of the TSW series.

I'll add that the cone mids in the TSW series DO NOT sound better or perform better than the dome mids.

Nice job! What brand of contact cement did you use? I was going to use Tightbond II to glue down some pieces that lifted on the base of an AR9.

I now believe in bypass caps after recapping my AR91s with Dayton; the 1% PMPC on the smaller values and the 5% MKP on the larger caps. I was unable to listen for very long before them getting 'under my skin' because of listener fatigue. I now use bypass caps on both electrolytics and film caps but usually only on the series caps. The idea was promoted by George E. Short III, President of North Creek Music Systems. He worked for AR for a while. He designed and built speakers, made crossover improvements for many well known speakers and made very good film caps: Zen and Crescendo cap . I had read his white paper on the theory that he had posted on his website - wish I had downloaded it before he took it down upon his retirement. I wrote to him and requested he post it again but he never did. The idea (in short) was to use a small cap, the bypass cap, in parallel to the base cap. The bypass should be up to 10% of the base cap value. The bypass should be a better quality and higher voltage rating. Like a metallized film cap on an electrolytic base cap and a film & foil with a metallized film base cap. He also had another system called Cascading (the Cresendo caps were used) where several bypass caps were used; each addition being smaller in capacitance value BUT higher in voltage rating. JBL used bypass caps in many of their high end speakers. They used very small value polySTYRENE with a polyPRO base cap. The idea was that the bypass would add it's own characteristics to the base cap AND it would aid in a faster discharge of the base cap. I found that a good bypass would clean up the white noise (grain and glare) in the music. I concluded this with AB tests. I like the Vishay 1837 PP 0.01uF on electrolytics and AudioCap Theta (tweeter base cap) and Cornell Dublier 940C on larger base film caps. I'll be adding a CD940C 0.1uF to my 2500uF cap bundle in my 10Pi and cascading the tweeter in my 91s by adding an RTE polystyrene 5000pF to the current Clarity CSA + AudioCap Theta combo.

I have 91's and the bass isn't as good as the 11's or 10pi; close though. That's using both SS amp and tube amp.

What Steve said. If you're in the MA area I'll be happy to help you restore the 5's