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thr33p4c

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About thr33p4c

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  1. HI,

    I know its been a few years since you rebuilt your KLH model 5's. I'm interested in the total cost of parts. I'm looking at buying a pair near my home. The owner says there is a problem with their sound, so I figure there is a rebuild needed. Any advice would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Joe

  2. I see now, I think the PS is the board on the side and this is part of the amp board.
  3. The PS does not look too difficult to get to. Ill probably do mine. Did you replace anything on the actual amplifier?
  4. I recently acquired 2 model 24 turntable receiver units and one set of Model 24 speakers. I am hoping to get one solid set out of the lot. One of the receiver units does not work at all, no output. The other unit works very nicely but the turntable is sluggish. All of the auto functions work but I need to coax the table around. I have already started on the speaker restoration. Ill post pics a little later. I am wondering if anyone has experience with the Garrard turntables in these units or can point me towards a good resource for fixing these up. I think I need to go through and clean/lube all of the mechanisms to start... Also, are there any components that I should replace inside of the receiver unit? I don't want to do a full recap but would consider rebuilding the power supply or doing other routine maintenance if beneficial.
  5. Are you still looking for one? I am working on restoring a full set at the moment.
  6. Here is a final pic for closure with my rebuilt Heathkit W5-M Monblocks Its kind of dark. Ill find a better one soon.
  7. Thanks for the tip. I will give it a shot on my next pair. My Fives are still running strong. I just moved to NYC though and my system is not sounding quite right in the new space. :/
  8. A second for the foam sheets. I used them on my KLH Fives and it worked very well. I bought a compass at Michaels while I was shopping for the sheets and cut them out with some spare razor blades I had in a parts drawer.
  9. I ended up taking this set one step further which really paid off. http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?showtopic=8239 I just wish I had more time and more space to start a collection. My usual lately has been finding rough speakers cheap, restoring them, then trading them in at the local stereo shops towards new projects.
  10. Working on a set of Heathkit W-5M Mono Tube Amplifiers

  11. I am also interested in a Model Five/AR3 Comparison. Also, if you have not yet finished the cabinets and have any questions I would be happy to help out. I just finished mine recently. Stripping them took forever but I had great results with Danish Oil and the finished product is stunning in person. Here is a link to my post regarding this: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?showtopic=8239&hl=
  12. Finished these today. Here are some highlights... The woofers were a bit of a pain but they worked out. I got a surround kit from M Sound. It was tough to get exactly what I needed because of the modified cone. The surrounds hung over the edge a bit so I trimmed them down to the edge of the metal basket. The mortite worked wonderfully. These sound surprisingly good. A bit bright but enjoyable overall. Just need some badges... I will probably PM Kent within a few days
  13. I did some testing on my trouble board today. I found something very strange and am looking for a second opinion. Basically what I have seen is an increase in overall crossover resistance. With my speaker leads shorted together (Tweeter + , mid +, and woofer + shorted to ground) I usually see about .3ohm. I confirmed this on an untouched board. My trouble board measures close to 4ohm. All things equal. I have discovered through trial and error that if I move my woofer (+) lead to an alternate grounding point the overall XO resistance drops to a normal range. I can touch on any other terminal strip ground point or anywhere on the chassis but as soon as I touch the wires to the terminal tie down point normally used for the woofer I see the jump in resistance. Is it possible that this piece of metal has somehow developed a resistance? It is so odd. NOTE - This point is normally shared with an inductor but I removed the inductor lead and did this test with that lead unattached and grounded to an alternate point on the chassis. I always see the same result. Added resistance on normal tie down point. Normal resistance on any other chassis ground.
  14. I have to place a PE order soon and was planning on picking up some of the PE Branded Polypropylenes to put in. 8uF is not very common so I plan to put in 8.2uF. I cannot remember where I read it but I remember someone saying 8.2 was fine in this application. The Parts Express caps are always really consistent. The Red/Black caps are junk after this long. I measured one of the 12uF in my Smaller Advents and it came out at like 15.5uF. I'm sure the other one will measure something dumb like 9uF. I have not entered into the recap or not recap debate but after seeing such outrageous drifted specs on this type specifically I would rather have my speaker sound as Henry Kloss designed it to sound as opposed unbalanced and inconsistent after 40 years of service. We will see how my Smaller Advents sound with new cones, new surrounds, and new crossover components shortly.
  15. Thanks Doug. All of this is making a lot more sense now that I know the cone has been swapped. I have a kit on the way from Doug. I will basically just be copying what I removed. I will keep you guys posted on the project.
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