Jump to content
The Classic Speaker Pages Discussion Forums


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About lARrybody

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday November 6

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Tech gadgets, Family, Friends, Vintage Stereo,Pizza

Recent Profile Visitors

1,504 profile views
  1. The only 8 in. AR woofers with 8 mounting holes I have ever ran across are the 200001-1 woofer used in the AR 18, 17, 15 and 25. They all have smooth cones and foam surrounds.
  2. Today I picked up a pair of AR3 speakers, serial numbers C35565 and C35411. They look pretty much original except the mids are A.13 type from some MkI AR11 or 10pi speakers. I don't know yet if any crossover mods have been done. I have a pair of nice A.11 front wired mids (the type without the center dot) from some 1969 AR3a speakers. I know Roy does suspension work on AR3 tweeters and midranges, but does anyone work on the AR3a midrange suspensions which have probably degraded by now?
  3. Wow I really would like to see what those woofers look like. A lot members here are all in on preserving the originality of these vintage speakers which I agree with, but I also believe that sometimes different modifications can be a good thing. Also some times not so good. Here are my AR9 lower mids that I refoamed last year with slightly different filled fillet Boston type foams.
  4. Are both cabinets the same size? The height and width should be the same. The 3 cabinet should be 11 in, deep and the 3a cabinet closer to 11 3/8 in. deep.
  5. I remember reading a thread by Doug G (the Advent guy) where he brought up the theory that solvents never completely disappear from being absorbed into the cone material and over time can weaken the bond of the new glue. He went on to recommend just mechanically removing the glue residue by scraping it off.
  6. A lot of people here like those economical binding post. I keep several pair in my parts box. The Single Pole Dual Throw Center Off switches came from Parts Express. I was impressed with the quality for a two dollar switch. https://www.parts-express.com/spdt-medium-duty-toggle-switch-center-off--060-552
  7. The speaker on the left is with the original crossovers and replacement woofer. The speaker on the right is with the recapped AR 91 crossover and original refoamed woofer. I compared them for 5 days with the new crossover set to flat (0db) most of the time because the original crossovers were not adjustable. Both speakers sounded excellent to me at first, but after time the recapped speaker opened up and just kind of disappeared into the room. Sometimes I thought the original sounded better and other times the recapped excelled. I moved them around and varied my listening position. I swapped channels. I had tried them with several receivers and amps, but settled for a recapped Pioneer SX-1010 which was slightly better than a Sansui 990DB not recapped. I listened to a lot of vinyl, FM, CD's and Bluetooth streaming. Everything from Beethoven to Bon Jovi . A lot of Natalie Cole, Donald Fagen and Neil Young. They both were excellent, but finally decided that the new caps were more transparent and smoother. It was time to finish the second speaker. After the second speaker was done I realized the serial numbers were on the old crossovers. I glued small labels on above the openings. I should of included them inside the cabinets like Advent did, but I was not going to open them back up. I also glued tiny ones in the corner of the front baffle. Now my banana plugs fit all the way in. The new switches have longer levers and a nicer throw. I have decided on -3 db on the tweeters and 0db on the midranges. They are on stands approximately 8 in. above the carpet, 10 ft.apart and 1 ft from the walls. Bass is solid but not as overwhelming like my 9's. Either my ears or my mind have convinced me that my efforts have yielded a improvement. One last thought. During the process I got to swap in a set of AR11's and some AR3a's which was a nice experience except for moving them around. I am going to ask for one of those mini folding hand trucks for Christmas. Peace Out
  8. November 4th I posted in Dareen James Thread about my recap of some AR 91 boards to install in my AR 58s speakers. I have finished the second board and swapped one into the first AR 58s. I was lucky that the crazy glue person wasn't involved when they were assembled. Neither was the mega staple employee because they only had 14 staples. After the staples were removed and with a little heat the boards lifted right out. The new boards are 2 inches longer and after aligning the binding post and switches in the opening they were attached with construction adhesive and fourteen #8 1/2 in. truss head screws. I also put a bead of glue around the perimeter of the new board. I used the foam tape from Parts Express around the baffle cutouts. 3/8 in wide around the tweeter and midrange opening and 1/2 in wide around the woofer. The poly fill batts were reinstalled in the same position as they came out. I just want to say that the poly fill is so much nicer than the fiberglass to deal with. The refoamed original woofer was reinstalled and the Tonegen replacement went back on the shelf. Now on to listening to the two different configurations and letting the new caps and surrounds settle in.
  9. When I got my AR12's they had generic replacement woofers. Talk about dinky magnets, but they sounded decent. They were replaced with the correct 200004-2 woofers. Here they are next to each other. Generic weighed 2 lbs 2 oz and the AR weighed 4 lbs 1 oz, almost twice as much.
  10. The progress you are making is impressive. You certainly have given some thought on how to proceed. My thoughts are that when you are finished you may want to keep both pairs. My living room where my 9's are has just slightly under 9 ft, ceilings. At 52.75 inches tall, stacked 9's are certainly a possibility. That would be different.
  11. Mills resisters are very good. 1% tolerance and excellent leads. They are getting pricy though. Parts Express now has them at $6.79.
  12. Almost done with the second crossover board, but this is Darren James thread about his AR 91 restoration. I just wanted to add the possibility that some of the original Components may well be in specifications. I have a Mastech capacitance meter and one of those inexpensive circuit board devices with the readout screen. Also a Fluke 177 that test capacitance that I did not use. The original 100uf Callins cans tested out 97.04 and 99.9 respectively. These may well be just fine. The 40uf CRX black with red ends tested 46.68 and 46.5. The silver 24uf CRX caps were way off at 57.85 and 55.2. The 8uf black and red CRX tested 8.1 and 8.55. The white 4uf Mexico caps 5.02 and 5.03. I don't know if Darren James can test his original caps,but mine seemed acceptable except for the 24uf midrange cap. I sure hope Darren James keep us informed with his progres with his 91's. I won't post anymore about the my 58S's until they are complete.
  13. I also have a extra set of AR 91 boards that I intend to swap into my AR58S speakers. I acquired a nice set last May. Almost in perfect shape except for rotten surrounds on the woofers. I swapped in a set of Tonegen Woofers I had and have been listening to them since. I have subsequently refoamed the original woofers but have procrastinated on recapping the 91 boards since they sound so good with the original unicom caps and the replacement woofers. Stimpy's comment got me motivated and today I worked on one board. I had my choice of NPE or polly caps for everything except the 4uf tweeter cap. Here is what I went with. 4uf Dayton Percisission Poly, Erse 8.2 poly, 22uf and 2.2 mundorf Ecap Plain. for the 24uf midrange cap. All caps are bypassed with Dayton .01uf Dayton film and foil caps. I really wanted to use .01uf Vishay bypass caps, but the wire leads were too short. This is exactly what I used on my AR9's upper midrange as per ARpros recommendation, and have been very happy the results. Jantzen Premium Elko NPE 33uf paralleled with 6.8uf with .01 Dayton F&F bypass for the 40uf cap. Lastly Mundorf 100uf Ecap Plain NPE with .1 Dayton F&F bypass. The resisters were replaced with Vishy Mills wirerounds that are paralleled for the the three 20 watt resistors. I used the Parts Express recommended binding post and installed new Parts Express switches which are much nicer.The new caps are held to the board down with shoe-goo I used the original wires. masonite board and inductors. What do you guys think about these choices?
  14. Hey Peter, I have two sets of AR4x's. One set (1968) has smooth cones and the other set has ribbed cones like yours. I don't know what the differences may be, but I would look for one that matches. Shouldn't be too hard to find. Larry
  15. My AR9's have the chrome trim around the sideovers, but my 90's dont. I think all 90's came that way.
  • Create New...