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About larrybody

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  • Birthday November 6

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  1. I am currently listening to 2ax's with 5's stacked on top. Both are excellent sounding speakers, but of course the 5's are going to sound better. Especially in the midrange. The dome midrange of the 5's just has better presence and dispersion. I am using a Pioneer SX-1010 to drive them but have also used a Marantz 2270. They can be expensive and shipping doesn't help. Both sets of my fives came from two different sellers in Cincinnati three months apart. Made a two hour drive each way. Well worth it. Just saw a real nice pair on CL in South Bend for $250.00. They didn't last long. Keep looking locally or within driving distance. If the pair you eventually get need work you are in the right place for advice and guidance. They will pop up sooner than you might imagine. One last thought. A nice pair of 4x speakers would be sweet with that 2230, but I don't know your listening environment.
  2. Unlike you guys I did not own any AR speakers until 2011. Now I am not sure how many pairs I have. My father had a Fisher tube receiver and Electro Voice speakers when I was a kid. In the early 70's I returned home from college and found they had been replaced with a Pioneer Quad receiver and four Walnut Large Advents. My first pair of good speakers were Utility Advents in 1973. In 1977 I purchased a set of Bose 901's. What did I know, they were loud. Then came a motorcycle, 1971 SS396 Chevelle, speed boat and eventually a wife, mortgage and three sons. I still kept the 901's till the mid 90's. In 2010 I saw an advertisement in one of those airplane magazines for a preamp and software to digitize vinyl LP's. That brings me to where I am now. My friend has the Macintosh tube monoblocks and AR9's. That would make me happy, at least for a while. Maybe four mint LST's and four monoblocks. I own several turntables, but would like a very expensive Sota. Maybe have Andrew Jones design me a one off set of floorstanders. The sky's the limit.
  3. My son from Chicago brought me a pair of 94R speakers he picked up for $50.00. Have had no time to reform them yet, but they deffentaly have black vinyl or plastic tops. Will post back what kind of drivers and crossovers they contain.
  4. I understand the leads for the tweeters. Are the other leads some kind of pass through for rear wired mids?
  5. A few years ago I went to see a Denzel Washington movie "The Pilot". There was a scene where he visits his father's vacation cabin and plays music on some vintage stereo equipment. I could not identify what it was. Later I rented the Blu Ray to pause the screen shot and identified the receiver as a Soundesign. I have heard the 4x speakers described as "giant killers", but my favorite is Steve F and his father's label of "not fair speakers".
  6. AR 4's are a great find. Very rare around here. Have two sets of 4x's and one of 4xa's. All have cloth surrounds, but different woofers. One set of 4x's from 1968 have the smooth lighter colored cone. The other set are ribbed black cones. The 4xa woofers are smooth cones, but painted halfway black. How different are the AR 4 woofers? Does anyone know why some early AR and KLH woofers have the hash marks on the cones? Always wondered why.
  7. Man oh Man Rob, you need to give yourself a pat on the back. What a transformation. I know exactly what you mean about "Learning a lot". Your speakers are probably going to be around for many years to come. Can't wait to see them finished. Looking good so far.
  8. I am currently enjoying a set of 2ax's stacked with some 5's powered by a Pioneer SX-1010. These two speakers really complement each other. I agree with Pat about the Marantz 22XX series of receivers. They would be a excellent choice for your 2ax's. Here is a couple of 2270's and a 2240 I have used. I love my silverface receivers, but there is something about these blueface models that just look so cool.
  9. Can you test a loose 3a tweeter by sending a signal to it with a 6uf capacitor in series with the positive lead?
  10. Ar2ax's were produced and sold in large quantities. Like the Pioneer SX-780. Lots of stuff out there. The tweeters are the delicate driver in this model, thus the higher prices for them. Mid ranges not so much.
  11. Finding a set with all original working parts, (maybe never opened up) is what I always am on the lookout for. Very hard to find. I would like to find a set of 3700-1 woofers for the set of AR3a's I mentioned previously. It would be worth having to change the inductor back. I always wonder why they were replaced in the first place. I know those were cloth surrounds, but how many time have you seen OEM woofers replaced with aftermarket units just because of surround rot. Then again on the other side of the equation how many times have vintage speakers been sold at value price for the same reason. Recently Tom Tyson has been letting go of some AR3-3a woofers on the auction site. Last week he sold some cloth surround early woofers, but I let it slip by me. I wonder if he has others?
  12. I love projects like this. They can easily get out of hand cost wise trying to acquire the correct working drivers. Buying off the auction site can be problematic, you never know the true history of how the stuff was treated. I have a set of beautiful AR 11b cabinets I am currently sourcing drivers for. Have you tried to identify your mid range thru the AR3 restoration manual? Here are the mid range drivers I have collected for my project. The two bottom units are from the auction site. Left one says 200010-1 on the back and the other has no determinable labels. The next two up are from a collector friend who ask how my project was going and offered these pulled from 10pi speakers. They are labeled and look identical to the lower left 200010-1 unit. The top two appeared on CL and are AR11b replacement units. The seller did not know what kind of speakers they were, thus a good deal for me. Notice how somebody had them set up for a front wired configuration. They all test good and have very similar ohm readings. Does anyone know what the DCR should be on these? One more thought about your AR3a's Last year I restored a set of 3a's with serial numbers 3A 35708 and 3A 35705. They had #7 woofer inductors, but had Tonegen replacement woofers. I hand unwound 3mh coils to 2.85mh which I believe were the #9 coils. If yours have the #7 coils I bet they came originally with cloth woofers. Another clue is the presence of the nichrome resistance wire. Good luck on your restoration.
  13. Wow, some very good opinions here on how to proceed. I am sure you are getting a good idea of what is involved. Now for my 2 cents. Using wood filler may be the way to go. Just remember that filler won't take stain or finish the same as the veneer. The JB Weldwood tinted with the mixol Kent mentioned is just about the best stuff to use. Luckecat's steaming process is paramount, but it seems you already have experience with this. Sanding is defiantly needed. Just remember that veneer is thin and pay attention to the edges, go lite there. It is easy to get carried away with a orbital sander. If you have the time and the arm using a sanding block could be a option. I would start with 220 grit and finish with 320. Keep the sandpaper and surface clean. Finishing, now here is where I get opinionated. Forget about the Howard's Restore a Finish. Good stuff, but not here. I prefer the Watco Natural, because it probably is close to the original oil finish and it looks fantastic. The Minwax Gunstock stain may be a good choice before the Watco, but I just like the natural. If you use the stain do two cotes and lightly sand between. Using the tack cloths and keeping the surfaces clean is mandatory. I know they are going to look good. Here is a pair with a 1970 build date done in eight cotes of Watco Natural finish. Any imperfections just give them character. LarryinIN
  14. Welcome to CSP Rob. You are in the right place. Everybody here is very helpful. I also have restored several pairs much like yours. There is a member here and also at that does wonders with cabinets like yours. Look for post by GD70 and you will find a ton of very well documented information on how to proceed. Good luck with your AR2ax's and keep us updated on your progress. Other knowledgeable members will be chiming in soon.
  15. I used a utility knife and a sharp wood chisel on this mess.