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About GD70

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  1. Hi Chris! Based on this thread, you would need to mod the crossover since the two didn't share the same parts according to Roy. Cheers, Glenn
  2. Good information. I was always under the impression, no 3 had foam surround woofers.
  3. Genek, Fantasy? Not at all. The video I posted was simply to get an IDEA of the different sound between the 3-3a, for fun. Never meant as the end all be all comparison between the two. But, you can hear a distinct difference, which I think basically characterizes their differences. Since I posted that video, which was from five or so years ago, shot with a point & shoot camera, I've restored several sets of 3a's and another set of 3's. The difference between then and now is the recent restorations both were far more extensive regarding driver rebuilds that were not available back then with the featured pairs in the video. I have A/B'd the 3/3as restored as best as possible, both as close to factory performance as possible. Chris restored tweeters for me for the 3as, Roy restored the mids for my 3's. Both were recapped, and pots were fully working. Both had the cloth surround woofers. I listened to both extensively, by myself, and with other audio heads, same amp, volume level, same music. With all things being as equal as possible, every person preferred the 3's. Their descriptions were they were smoother, more natural sounding, better balanced. They often felty he 3as were too forward in the highs. Surprising, but I also have the same opinion. Glenn
  4. I'm almost speechless! Unbelieveable find! Maybe a few AKers across the pond would be willing to go pick some up, and ship the the U.S. Just wow!
  5. Yes, half the price at PE, without the air coil.
  6. I used the tone method of a set of JBL 4301b woofers. Those woofers have big beautiful concave dust caps that I didn't want to cut. Worked perfectly.
  7. Foam surrounds are fairly easy to replace. Once all the old foam has been removed, there's usually some still stuck on the cone edges. I use a small plastic taping knife and carefully scrape away as much as possible. I keep my fingers under the cone for support as I gently scrape away the remaining foam. Usually there's also a bit of old glue remaining, which I rub off between my fingers. There will still be a little remaining which is fine. Youll also need to scrape all the remaining foam and glue off the basket surfaces so they are smooth. Upfront prep is important. Using shims is fool proof. I carefully cut the dust cap around the base close to where it's glued to the cone. I leave just a bit uncut and flip it up like a can lid. This makes it easy to realign the cap when regluing. Glue the new surrounds to the cones first. When dry, glue to the basket. Many use wood clothes pins to hold the glued surround edges in place while the glue dries. When dry, pull the shims, move the cone in and out to make sure there's no VC rub, reglue the dust cap in place and you're ready to hear your speakers sing! Glenn
  8. If they have a good seal, then no need to reseal the surrounds. ARs usually don't need resealing like KLHs. Simple test, gently push the cones in, and let go. If they return slowly, you have a good seal. If they return immediately, then reseal the surrounds.
  9. You're going to need a very thin, light weave material, maybe silk, and butle rubber, or the sealer we use on AR and KLH surrounds to reseal them. The piece of fabric should extend at least a 1/4 inch past the tears. The butyl sealer should be applied sparingly, just enough to hold the patches in place. You don't want to put too much on and restrict the cone movement. I'd inspect the other mid as well as it could be in the same state or close to it. Good luck, Glenn
  10. That is way cool to see! I love when I come across burried, long forgotten stuff like this. Glenn
  11. Excellent work! Only the last couple years the original tweeters for the 3a are being successfully repaired, once thought when they were dead, they were paper weights or ready for the trash can! The 3's tweeters are a bit easier to repair, but the mids are now being repaired as well, and brought back close to new sound output! This is very exciting for us vintage AR owners!
  12. Oh to be a fly on the wall. What a shame, but perhaps the right person will buy, and restore them, it can be done.
  13. Hey Adams! Terrific day! Good turnout, great people and systems to listen to! Thanks Robert for posting the AK link! Connor put together a nice video and I posted a couple as well! Cheers, Glenn
  14. The wires from the mids are aluminum. You will need aluminum solder. It is not easy to work with, and does not flow like normal silver solder. It kind of sputters as it gets hot. It must be very hot to flow. The terminal tabs are metal, no plastic, do not remove it. The tweeter foam blobs seem ok. I've seen very small and large. As long as the dome is sitting in place and not popping out, it should be fine. The tweeter that has OK on it has had some kind of work done. Those screws are not original like the first tweeter photo. If it sounds good I wouldn't worry about it.
  15. Tomorrow is the day! It's looking like there will be a good turnout, maybe 8-10 outstanding systems being demoed, including a completely restored set of KLH Nines, and a ton of gear, vinyl for sale! Maybe I'll see some of you! Glenn
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