GD70

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About GD70

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  1. Well, it's really up to you, right? Buy them, and sell some others to cover the cost, buy them and don't sell any other speakers or don't buy them. 2,600 is not cheap!
  2. Hi Tom, Your 3 looks very good for so early a model. You're very lucky to have such an early example. Glenn
  3. The 910's originally were designed as studio monitors. They are efficient, put out huge sound. I doubt you will need a second set of speakers with the 910's. As David noted, use them by themselves first. You'll see! Do you have the factory stands? They raise them 7 inches even though the owners manual states 10 inches. Raising them makes a big difference and improvement in sound. Glenn
  4. The original grill frames were plastic, and would bow out so you could remove or insert the top and bottom so they would slide into the slot. Later 3a grills just fit flush and the frame molding had flat inner edges. I recently restored my 2nd set of 3's, and made new grill frames using 1/4 inch MDF. They are cut to size to fit flush with the molding edges, and the Saran grill cloth adds enough added thickness to make them fit nice and snug, but can be removed easily if needed. Glenn
  5. Do you have a low serial number pair?
  6. I believe you are correct regarding a lacquer finish. MayI suggest getting a can of gloss lacquer, and using a small artists brush and touching up the areas that need attention. Try a small area first. Lacquer stinks, so I'd say do this in the garage or outside.
  7. Very nice! Terrific they are from the original owners! They look very similar to my 4x's as well. My serial numbers are 376790 & 376794, also purchased from the original owners son. Mine are all original and sound terrific! I did apply a very thin coat of Roy's sealer to the surrounds, which made a noticeable improvement in the bass output. As ra. ra stated, they breath through the dust cap.
  8. I was thinking the same thing! Another great find David! Look forward to seeing them opened up once you get started on them. Cheers, Glenn
  9. Looking forward to what treasure is revealed!
  10. Hi Geoff, Definitely try to remove the pieces on the plywood with some heat to put back in place on the cab. Harvesting veneer from the 4 cabs is a good move, vintage veneer will be a much better color match when refinishing. That grain pattern is beautiful and unusual, si there lies the challenge. Some artful use of some dark walnut oil or stain should help with those darker areas. Glenn Glenn
  11. Great speakers! Rare and desirable. To bad you don't have the room for them as I suspect when you hear them you'll want to keep them. I have the LST-2's and they are fabulous! Please post lots of pics! Glenn
  12. The split joints are repairable. You'll need to be brave as surgery is required! Youll need to dig out and remove the softened partial board as much as possible. The idea is to give the space needed to clamp and pull the corners back together. Do some testing with the clamps to see if the edges come together without any gaps. If not, remove more particle board. Once they pull together, remove the clamps, saturate the joints with epoxy. I use ZPoxy. It's very thin and the particle board will absorb it. It can help to warm up the area with a hair drier prior to adding the epoxy into the gap. Often the particle board absorbs the epoxy like a sponge at first, so make sure you have a decent amount mixed and continue to add it to the gaps. I usually wait 15 minutes or so before clamping. Less epoxy will squeeze out. You don't want a lot of excess epoxy squeezing out, and you should keep paper towels handy to wipe it away immediately as well as acetone. The epoxy will make the particle board far stronger than it was original. Glenn
  13. Interesting. I'm sure Roy will have some enlightening info.
  14. Hi Roy, Completely forgot about the transformers. One can dream though! At least the tweeters and rebuilt mids can bring new life to the 3a's. Glenn