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TimmyTonga

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About TimmyTonga

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    Devon, UK
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    Sound, and how it fits together. Single-malt whisky.

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  1. Personally I'm not a fan of leaving the resistor off the tweeter L-pad. I don't find that extending the range of the tweeter downwards gets you anywhere you want to be. Tim
  2. When you guys can pick up ARs in thrift stores for very little money, the expenditure on Korean refurb kits probably seems disproportionate. Over here where the speakers themselves tend to fetch higher prices, it doesn't seem so bad. I like the challenge of getting the old stuff to work. My original post was expressing my bemusement at why a pot should ohm out OK on a bench but be intermittent in a cab. I think this is because when testing a pot hand-held there is, possibly subconsciously, more pressure being applied on the spindle. So I shall clean more and bend the wiper more. And probably contact AR mania in Korea to replace units beyond redemption. Tim
  3. While I grant you the one on the right is a bit marginal, the pot on the left is at least as good as the ones I got from Vintage-AR guaranteed for five years. But it's wiper has a notch in one contact, and that probably isn't helping, I will concede..... tim
  4. I suppose this is one of the things that bothers me, although I am not coming at the issue as an electronics expert. How does the difference between a pot and an L-pad compare to the difference between, say, the use of film capacitors and NPEs? In terms of their relative effect on the integrity of the crossover as a whole?
  5. Yes, I do have such a thing, and it would be a good solution if I were to take that route....
  6. Here are a couple of photos of my offending mid-pots. In retrospect I may have been a little optimistic in expecting the one on the right function well, as it has quite a lot of pitting - however, my argument ran, the central section seems pretty much OK, and that's where the wiper will probably be. I am quite interested to try the Korean solution, with two reservations; • the buying process seems to be not entirely straightforward • I'm not sure how practical it would be to drill out the existing rivet with a hand-drill. Tim
  7. Thanks to all for the input. I'm not dead set against using L-pads, but if other people have got their pots to behave properly I dont' see why I shouldn't as well. Roy, yes, I always check the wiper tips and there is usually some 'pitting', which I sand flat. The reason I wonder whether wipers lose some of their springy mojo after a while is because two that I bought refurbed from Vintage-AR had wipers that were exerting more pressure on the resistor wire than any of mine. Much more. Whether Larry indulged in some serious metal-bending, or they just happened to be in good shape I couldn't say; interesting though that his shafts were plastic and mine were metal, so his were clearly older than mine, which is a bit counter-intuitive. will post a photo or two tomorrow, but may consider shelling out £20 for ar_pro's FaderGrease as the next step. £20!?! I could buy an L-pad for that...... T
  8. During my time on the forum I have observed that Jerry never wastes an opportunity, and I respect that : ) Unfortunately my solutions are, in order; • spray them with something • substantially deform the metal • replace them with something • do something that someone has yet to suggest • bi-amp
  9. I greased the pots on a set of 3as recently and the drop-outs happened, so this time I didn't - and they still happened! Tim
  10. I clean them and test them and the impedance runs smoothly from 0 -16 ohms as I turn. Then I put them in a cabinet and they are immediately intermittent. I mean immediately. Am I doing something stupid? Perhaps I need to bend the wiper more, because if I press gently on the black knob, contact is fine again..... Any enlightenement out there? Getting despondent and eyeing up L-pads..... Tim
  11. Thanks ra.ra and Roger; these are both very helpful posts which give me plenty more to think about (In fact, I shall reread that Ibis thread tomorrow morning when my brain is fresh). on the subject of 5s, does anyone know off the top of their head whether the white dot values are the same as the 3a?
  12. Jeff, the best method I have found is as per ra-ra's post in this thread;
  13. Thanks to everyone for their very useful and informative input - it has helped to crystallise my thinking. It seems to me that for someone who already has a pair of 5s, it makes more sense to go for an early pair of 2ax's with the orange-dome tweets, as they will offer a more distinctly different listening experience. ra-ra addresses this key point in his post above - and the answer is; all the 2ax's for sale in the UK seem to be the later models. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201724832107 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152321643752 So here's a thing. Given how few 2s of any sort appear in the UK, how practical is it to turn a later version 2ax into an early one? Whenever I see decabbed orange-domed tweets for sale in the US, I am always surprised at how cheap they are compared to say, the classic 3a tweets. But then I would have late woofers with early tweets, but perhaps the difference in sound between the cloth-surround and foam-surround woofers is not very huge..... Happy to do xo mods, but the OD tweets wouldn't just drop in.....would they?
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