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Markkb

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  1. On this subject, I am restoring a pair of AR-3s, and took readings from the original 6uf / 24 uf wax block capacitor. The capacitor drifted after 55 years, the tweeter was seeing 13.6 uf, and the midrange was seeing 73.6 uf. I had a similar question that the tweeter was getting a bit more than spec’d.
  2. Markkb

    T-Nut Alternative?

    Here's another option, suggested by someone at AK, they have these in different shapes and thread sizes. You'd have to be able to screw them in, from inside the cabinet...hmm https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=MS21059 mark
  3. Hi Eric, From my memory the sound ‘signature’ of the OLA and NLA is so similar I would consider them the same. Given that, as soon as both pairs are working, stack ‘em! Other’s would have to comment on the theory, but I can relate that I said ‘wow’ when I first stacked mine. I use a stack as the R & L for home theater/rock and roll system.
  4. If I recall correctly, there is a dual-capacitor with two different values in one capacitor. When rebuilding, one replaces that cap with two separate capacitors. I remember someone advising to ensure that you test the leads of the dual cap prior to removal to verify which replacement capacitor goes where. That is one place to make a mistake if I’m not mistaken.
  5. Markkb

    KLH Model Ten

    Thanks jkent! I resized and it worked. These KLH 10’s are S/n 008987 and 008942. The high frequency disconnect is always interesting. Ahh, I just had a thought, there’s likely no need to reseal anyway since these are ported. Now I’m back to where I was! There is a black cloth under the burlap, so I can’t see the driver. I tried probing with an awl, to see if I could tap on a metal frame, no luck, though I was not too probing for fear of piercing something.
  6. Markkb

    KLH Model Ten

    I was reading Larrybody’s thread on epoxied drivers in klh 6’s, and Glen’s advice stuck with me, after all these years it’s very likely the woofer surrounds will need resealing so I might as well cut the grill cloth to see if they are indeed epoxied or screwed. From there I would reseal the woofer surrounds either way. The nice thing about the KLH 10’s is they’re ported, so no extensive sealing required if I have to access through the back. Hopefully this is all moot though and they’re screwed in.
  7. Markkb

    KLH Model Ten

    I got a very nice pair of 10’s. They were put out in the street and my buddy picked them up for me. Neither of the high range drivers work. Bummer, cause I’ve seen a picture of the 10’s with an epoxied woofer, but also one screwed in. I’d hate to ruin that nice grill cloth to find out its epoxied underneath and I can’t access the capacitor through the front. The badges are on the back, but looking at ra ra’s pics it may be the owner moved them to the back. S/n is 8942 I think the other is close to that. There’s a nice KLH ‘history’ thread at audiokarma that shows some 10’s with the white edge, these are all walnut.
  8. Markkb

    EPI 100 crossover

    Ha! Thanks, I'll check next time. It was on the top of the list so I thought it was recent. While I'm here, I'm currently working on a pair of epi 100's that I recapped two years ago. I'm gifting them, but wanted to refinish them to remove some water stains. Unfortunately I had to sand to remove the water rings/stains. That removed the rich deep brown color of the epi's. This forced me to sand all four sides and stain. I used Minwax dark walnut. They've turned out nice but I prefer the original deep brown color which was uniform over the cabinets. I'm seeing more variation in the color of the grain now. Bottom line is approach refinishing with a less can be more. If I was to do it again, I'd try cleaning with a wood cleaner, and at first lightly sanding the ring area and staining just that part. Then do a full on sand if it can't match. These also had the rubber woofer surrounds which I noticed had a crack or two, so I've removed the rubber surrounds and need to refoam next. I may also install a wood brace I've heard mentioned, from the back to the Front, aligning with the top woofer screw. cheers, mark
  9. Markkb

    EPI 100 crossover

    Charlevioux, You'll get the most noticible difference from just changing the capacitor. It can be simple and satisfying to do. Some general steps: 1) remove woofer being very careful with the screwdriver, they can slip and poke a hole in the cone. 2) wearing a dust mask and gloves remove fiberglass and put into plastic garbage bag. Use a separate bag for each speaker so the same quantity goes back into each speaker. 3) Cut out old 10 uf capacitor, cut right next to capacitor to leave as much wire to connect the new capacitor. Remove old capacitor. Either solder or use wire nuts to connect up new capacitor. There is no direction for the capacitor. I believe I soldered one end because the lead was short. 4) secure new capacitor by gluing in place with silicone sealant by placing a glob under capacitor, or use a zip tie and zip tie anchor. Let silicone dry. At this point you can hook up woofer and place in hole with a couple screws to ensure you have good connections, or just put it back together. Daytons are nice caps, personally I would spend a little more considering the effort. I like Clarity Cap and Sonicap. I've done swapping tests and can tell a difference, and there are people who will state it makes no difference at all. Certainly replacing the old cheap electrolytic capacitor with a new film capacitor with whatever brand will improve the sound. Enjoy
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