Jump to content
The Classic Speaker Pages Discussion Forums

Chris1this1

Members
  • Content Count

    51
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

3 Followers

About Chris1this1

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Chris1this1

    Appreciation for Roy C!

    Would be very cool to shake hands with the man, the myth, the legend at Glenn’s Peekskill NY meet coming up on the 18th if it would work into Roy’s schedule. Either way, a real trailblazer for us all.
  2. Chris1this1

    Crossover issues AR-2AX

    Hello original poster, this is easy enough to isolate with use of the mid and HI controls on the back of the speakers. If you are buzzing with the HI turned all the way down, now it’s either the mid or the woofer, then it can simply by isolated further by removing the jumper wire on the back terminals and connect directly to terminals. 1 and T. Still buzzing? Do this connection to both speakers and compare with the balance control, both speakers mids should sound similar, if the buzzing speaker seems like it’s hitting more lower frequencies than non buzzing speaker, its probably a crossover wiring mistake. If both sound similar, but one buzzes, it’s probably the mid driver at fault. No buzzes? Probably woofer issues. I’ve never experienced buzzing from new capacitors. Shorted old caps, could probably cause buzzing on drivers, so I’d rule out caps almost immediately if connected correctly.
  3. Chris1this1

    My AR3a front wired tweeter

    Hi Fran, I can shed some light on this. The tweeter is not actually wired out of phase, if it was a working example, you will see that the + lead is still on the right after crossing by a simple 1.5v battery test(dome will push away from base when + of battery attached to + lead on right). Must have been crossed to correct polarity during tweeter production, which seems common (I see a lot of these tweeters from rebuilding). Crossed or not, they keep the + on the right from what I have seen. Chris
  4. Chris1this1

    Allison One woofers, original production vs. latest production

    Bill, interesting to hear the bass was compromised when the woofers were mixed. Since the mixed woofers are in both cabinets, perhaps they both of mine are compromised. Based on this, my best solution is to put the pair of newer woofs in one cab and the pair of original in the other. Let’s see what happens....
  5. I am looking for a pair of these so I can replace two later production woofers currently installed in my old production Allison One speakers
  6. I picked up a pair of ones made in 1979. Each speaker has one original production woofer and one late production woofer. Odd thing is that the late production woofer is producing more output than the original woofer. I don’t think there is anything wrong with the original woofers. DCR measures very close between both woofer styles. Can anyone comment on this?
  7. Chris1this1

    Ailing AR5

    Let’s not get too crazy and rule out the small stuff. Check the jumper wire on the back going from the center to the (if I recall correctly) right side lug labeled “T” If that checks out, you can move on to the possibility of a wire breaking loose from the restoration job performed previously, it should be obvious by taking a peek inside by removing the woofer. Dig through the fluff to the crossover and you just might find something not connected properly.
  8. Chris1this1

    Odd replacement tweeter

    Frank, yup those are the same pair you saw up for sale, I threw a number at him and he bit. That said, I see now he has two more pairs up at through the roof prices, but he might biggt again at a low offer. Roy, thank you for identifying these. They do seem brighter than what should be in there, I will be replacing these with the proper types. Crazily enough, there were lots of problems with the previous restoration attempt. The tweeters were wired incorrectly, putting one in parallel with a combination of two in parallel with one in series, all due to a midwire at the front plane terminal. Also, the seller claimed that one woofer did not work, but the wire was actually pinched under the woofer mounting flange and I guess eventually broke off. It pays to do things right people, lol.
  9. Chris1this1

    Odd replacement tweeter

    Frank looks like you called it, a quick search for AR11 tweeters shows very similar. I picked up this pair since they were local and a great restoration candidate. Plus I do miss the insanity of stacked LST’s so I’ll hang with these after restoring for a bit and probably eventually move them along.
  10. Chris1this1

    Odd replacement tweeter

    Hello, just picked up this LST pair, and from all appearances, looks like they had a freshening up in the 90’s. They have the Tonegen woofers, and two mids were changed with the silver grill rear terminal versions, but lastly, 5 of the 8 tweeters were replaced with what is pictured. Is anyone familiar with these? The dome seems to be an exact match to the later AR9 style and the housing matches the earlier tweeters. The foam is glued to the front, with just the bare metal of the magnet assembly beneath it.
  11. Chris1this1

    Completed! AR6 pair for a friend, on a low budget!

    PS, I can rebuild your AR3a style tweeters as barter power if interested.
  12. My local vegan cafe is proudly using a pair of AR6 speakers for sound, and my friend who I frequent it with is definitely into them. Looking for an unrestored pair, to keep the price lower perhaps. Anything out there? Thanks Edit* found a pair, thanks to all who looked
  13. I am looking for a pair of these AR3a front wired midranges, as I have just picked up a set of LST speakers to restore and two of the midranges were swapped with new rear wired versions. I can potentially trade the rear wired mids for front wired mids, or even trade you rebuilds on your AR3a style tweeters.
  14. Chris1this1

    AR2ax tweeter cap value, 3/4” vs. phenolic dome

    Perfect, thank you Kent!
  15. Just wondering. I only have experience with the later AR2ax models with the 3/4” dome tweeter. I know a 4mFd capacitor is used on the 3/4” versions. Is it the same or different on the phenolic dome versions? Thanks
×