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About Chris1this1

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  1. I agree that spacing on the Heathkit could different. They fit in the typical AR installations, as pictured in a pair or AR3's, with about 1/8' to spare. 🤷‍♂️
  2. Thanks Glenn, that would be the plan should I go forward with this. I am reluctant since although with the crossover mods, I am still locked into using an AR3a mid. Wondering how close it would sound with the mods to an actual AR3 mid.
  3. I ask if anyone has compared the sound of the AR3a mid, used in an AR3 application using the last AR3 crossover iteration when the AR3 was sold using the AR3a mid. I have a spare pair of AR3a’s, as well as my main pair, both original with ceramic woofers and 3/4” tweeters. I have a loose pair of alnico woofers, and phenolic tweeters. I am contemplating converting the spare pair from AR3a to AR3, while still using the AR3a mid. This is merely an experiment since I have most of the parts at my disposal, no complaints on the AR3a sound, just want to do a comparison since I have never owned AR3’s, just worked on them for clients. I mainly would like to get opinions on justifying the effort without having the proper AR3 mid, but having everything else.
  4. Jim, If you still have your original but it is not working, I do offer a rebuild service. Please PM me if interested.
  5. Great opportunity to make mirrored front baffles during the resto....
  6. Hello, I just restored a pair of AR4x speakers, and one of the fixes was to repair a separated tweeter cone from the edge of the basket. I’m sure I am not the only one who encountered this problem, so it might be a good place to start to troubleshoot the bad speaker.
  7. Frank, i don’t have matching amps...yet, but currently the top set is powered by my Soundcraftsmen MA5002 which will push 375 watts into 4 ohms each side, and the bottom set is powered with a Crown Power Base 3 that pumps out a hefty 715 watts per channel. The Microstatics are just for show, since I knew you’d like the ascetic. They are in the midst of restoration currently, however, and have been retrofitted with an array of neodymium magnet .75” dome tweeters for ultimate dispersion and should be interesting once connected. Ra.ra...it was just the screensaver Verizon puts up, which could have been anything at that moment lol.
  8. Would be very cool to shake hands with the man, the myth, the legend at Glenn’s Peekskill NY meet coming up on the 18th if it would work into Roy’s schedule. Either way, a real trailblazer for us all.
  9. Hello original poster, this is easy enough to isolate with use of the mid and HI controls on the back of the speakers. If you are buzzing with the HI turned all the way down, now it’s either the mid or the woofer, then it can simply by isolated further by removing the jumper wire on the back terminals and connect directly to terminals. 1 and T. Still buzzing? Do this connection to both speakers and compare with the balance control, both speakers mids should sound similar, if the buzzing speaker seems like it’s hitting more lower frequencies than non buzzing speaker, its probably a crossover wiring mistake. If both sound similar, but one buzzes, it’s probably the mid driver at fault. No buzzes? Probably woofer issues. I’ve never experienced buzzing from new capacitors. Shorted old caps, could probably cause buzzing on drivers, so I’d rule out caps almost immediately if connected correctly.
  10. Hi Fran, I can shed some light on this. The tweeter is not actually wired out of phase, if it was a working example, you will see that the + lead is still on the right after crossing by a simple 1.5v battery test(dome will push away from base when + of battery attached to + lead on right). Must have been crossed to correct polarity during tweeter production, which seems common (I see a lot of these tweeters from rebuilding). Crossed or not, they keep the + on the right from what I have seen. Chris
  11. Bill, interesting to hear the bass was compromised when the woofers were mixed. Since the mixed woofers are in both cabinets, perhaps they both of mine are compromised. Based on this, my best solution is to put the pair of newer woofs in one cab and the pair of original in the other. Let’s see what happens....
  12. I am looking for a pair of these so I can replace two later production woofers currently installed in my old production Allison One speakers
  13. I picked up a pair of ones made in 1979. Each speaker has one original production woofer and one late production woofer. Odd thing is that the late production woofer is producing more output than the original woofer. I don’t think there is anything wrong with the original woofers. DCR measures very close between both woofer styles. Can anyone comment on this?
  14. Let’s not get too crazy and rule out the small stuff. Check the jumper wire on the back going from the center to the (if I recall correctly) right side lug labeled “T” If that checks out, you can move on to the possibility of a wire breaking loose from the restoration job performed previously, it should be obvious by taking a peek inside by removing the woofer. Dig through the fluff to the crossover and you just might find something not connected properly.
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