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About batchman

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    mid-ish Massachusetts
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    Varied - and variable.
  1. A/D/S/ L1590

    So I guess I had mis-remembered this. My 1590s and 980s are both series 1, so they aren't identical (mid/tweet) drivers after all. Drat. Not going to try to "cure" that though! Best, - Jeff
  2. L710 conundrum????

    Tweeters serviced by Richard So come back with that dome (without warning), for what its' worth. Cheers, - Jeff
  3. L710 conundrum????

    Appears you need woofer #206-0325. I also found a 206-0318 but this at some point gets replaced by the 0325. The tweeter part number will depend on the serial #. I remain humbled by both of your sticky-dome drivers. All of mine have "fur", but then so does my house. On edit: It looks like you've got deeper troubles, as the mad scientist was thorough enough to cut out and replace a piece of the baffle, to fit a round driver... Good luck, - Jeff
  4. ADS 1290 - have drivers updated? Driving me insane!

    It was some time ago (as was your question, sorry!) but I think the sticky vs "rubber" was simply availability. I do see that as the style in the newer 3/4" tweeter boxes. I presume when he does what he does the original can't be re-used. Guess I should not be surprised if it changes the sound. As to the shipping cover, I'm still pissed at that too. Of course, it should not matter as I'm the only one who would care and that set of 980s will be mine in the next life too, if I can help it... Had I known either of these things would/could happen, I would have not sent it and just kept shopping for correct used replacement. I am patient, at least on that sort of thing. In fact, I still watch for spares... Cheers, - Jeff
  5. ADS 1290 - have drivers updated? Driving me insane!

    This speaker line was a pretty common studio reference in its' day. First thing to check to my mind is the crossover, there is a tweeter pad switch. Many many recordings can sound pretty harsh if the tweets are not padded. My experience with this vintage ADS tweets is they either turn to mud or blow (thankfully rare). Of my many sets I've only had two driver problems, a woofer that I "hurt" and a tweeter that came in DOA. I sent that tweeter to Richard So and was not impressed with the result. It left here as a sticky dome in an ADS original tweeter cover, came back as the black rubber dome in a different cover. It does not sound right, not criminal for my use (this set is rear surrounds) but the difference vs its' mate in a room correction white noise test is substantial. Frankly if I'd known my original tweeter cover wouldn't come back, I would not have sent the part - it was from the only set I'd bought new and otherwise still have complete packing and docs etc. Cheers, - Jeff
  6. Production dates L1590/2

    Best I can pin down is a range - date-wise, Series II started between June of '84 and June of '85. Appears I can pin serial number for Series II start at #2147. HTH, - Jeff
  7. Biamping L1590 anyone doing it?

    Clearly you haven't tried L-980s (big grin)... I'm running a sub not so much for sound, but rather for security. Proper parts are HTF. Best, - Jeff
  8. Biamping L1590 anyone doing it?

    Your amps don't look shabby either! I do run a subwoofer as the LFE stuff from surround can be a bit tough, just as soon protect the L-series woofers. Cheers, - Jeff
  9. Biamping L1590 anyone doing it?

    I'm driving L-1590 fronts and L-980 rears ie 4 corners biamped, with two dbx BX-1's. Pretty HTF; bought the first one new and lucked into a second one. Looking for a third for a spare. To round out the setup, I've got a BX-2 running my centers, if I had a passive sub I'd probably try to run that with it too (2-3-4 configurable). No fans for me, thanks. Inputs come from either the matching CX-1 preamp (4ch audio) or a Pio SC-99 (surround), switching paths through a dbx 200xg to a pair of 223 crossovers. I actually use the 200xg to also switch between east-facing (L-980 front) or west-facing (L-1590 front), but the sweet spot for facing east is taken up by my rack setup being pushed out for easier rear access... It does seem to have gotten a little out of hand... Cheers, - Jeff
  10. Biamping L1590 anyone doing it?

    1590 xover frequency is 350Hz, match the internal 12dB/octave and call it done. Amps should be capable of high current and good damping factor. I'm sending 200wrms to each side of ADS crossover - enough and not too much. Recall that each circuit is 4 ohm. Limiting factor for SPL will be the tweeter protection, although if you use program with a lot of subsonic content you can hurt the woofers - I use a subwoofer below 100Hz after hurting an L-980 (ouch). If you're using Series 1, make sure you source spare tweeter fuses as you won't find them collecting dust on shelves at Radio Shack. And despite lore on wires, I do lean to "large" - for instance, my amps are 20A capable and I think that's part of why they work sooo well. I suppose the DSP and microphone could be useful for making sure levels smoothly align on a white noise spectrum if you're using mis-matched power amps, but your ear will tell you that pretty darn close I'd expect. My dbx crossovers have detents on the adjustments, made it easy to set it all up uniformly. Applying the 'tech' to white noise will tell you more about the room than the speakers (assuming everything is healthy) and something like a dbx 14/10 can help you dial in; I think that belongs in your preamp effects loop rather than in your crossovers though. Good luck however you proceed, I'm sure you will enjoy. - Jeff
  11. Biamping L1590 anyone doing it?

    No, the one in the 1590. I am blessed with huge amplifier power*, with matching damping factor. Amplifier headroom, the usual driver for bi-amping, was not an issue for me. The change in sound stage, in my room, was profound. The only major difference I can figure is the crossovers. Cheers, - Jeff * amplification: 2 dbx BX-1's. Look 'em up if you're curious. A/D/S speakers love their CURRENT.
  12. Biamping L1590 anyone doing it?

    The big surprise to my ear was the dbx 223 clearly outperforming the ADS crossover. Maybe not night vs day, but certainly half-moon vs day. YMMV, but that's $100 I am not going to re-spend for a long, long time. Best, - Jeff
  13. any tips for Walnut touch-up?

    My similar Olde English stuff seemed too dark, maybe this is a better match. I was really thinking more along the lines of a fine paintbrush for a couple nicks & scratches but maybe this is the best way. So Kent, have you tried this on actual 25+ year old ADS walnut? I thought I recalled these were lacquered but they don't seem much like other things I have in that finish. The wood does seem "thirsty". Thanks, - Jeff
  14. any tips for Walnut touch-up?

    Howdy - I figure this would be the right place to ask - has anyone found a stain or such that's a good match for touching up nicks/dents/scratches etc, the kind that don't tempt you to re-finish? And since I've opened the concept, how about the inevitable sun bleaching? Has anyone found a treatment that "helps", either preventing or minimizing? I have a lot of ADS walnut around this place and I'd love to #1 prevent further degradation and #2 lessen some of the "hey, look at me" things that happen (especially to used buys). I bet I'm not the only one... Cheers, - Jeff
  15. Biamping L1590 anyone doing it?

    I found pro sound xovers to be pretty reasonable, I'm using dbx223s. I actually have four corners bi-amped (980s in the opposite corners) so I needed two of them, but they were readily available around $100. Cheers, - Jeff