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About batchman

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  1. ADS 1290 - have drivers updated? Driving me insane!

    It was some time ago (as was your question, sorry!) but I think the sticky vs "rubber" was simply availability. I do see that as the style in the newer 3/4" tweeter boxes. I presume when he does what he does the original can't be re-used. Guess I should not be surprised if it changes the sound. As to the shipping cover, I'm still pissed at that too. Of course, it should not matter as I'm the only one who would care and that set of 980s will be mine in the next life too, if I can help it... Had I known either of these things would/could happen, I would have not sent it and just kept shopping for correct used replacement. I am patient, at least on that sort of thing. In fact, I still watch for spares... Cheers, - Jeff
  2. ADS 1290 - have drivers updated? Driving me insane!

    This speaker line was a pretty common studio reference in its' day. First thing to check to my mind is the crossover, there is a tweeter pad switch. Many many recordings can sound pretty harsh if the tweets are not padded. My experience with this vintage ADS tweets is they either turn to mud or blow (thankfully rare). Of my many sets I've only had two driver problems, a woofer that I "hurt" and a tweeter that came in DOA. I sent that tweeter to Richard So and was not impressed with the result. It left here as a sticky dome in an ADS original tweeter cover, came back as the black rubber dome in a different cover. It does not sound right, not criminal for my use (this set is rear surrounds) but the difference vs its' mate in a room correction white noise test is substantial. Frankly if I'd known my original tweeter cover wouldn't come back, I would not have sent the part - it was from the only set I'd bought new and otherwise still have complete packing and docs etc. Cheers, - Jeff
  3. Production dates L1590/2

    Best I can pin down is a range - date-wise, Series II started between June of '84 and June of '85. Appears I can pin serial number for Series II start at #2147. HTH, - Jeff
  4. Biamping L1590 anyone doing it?

    Clearly you haven't tried L-980s (big grin)... I'm running a sub not so much for sound, but rather for security. Proper parts are HTF. Best, - Jeff
  5. Biamping L1590 anyone doing it?

    Your amps don't look shabby either! I do run a subwoofer as the LFE stuff from surround can be a bit tough, just as soon protect the L-series woofers. Cheers, - Jeff
  6. Biamping L1590 anyone doing it?

    I'm driving L-1590 fronts and L-980 rears ie 4 corners biamped, with two dbx BX-1's. Pretty HTF; bought the first one new and lucked into a second one. Looking for a third for a spare. To round out the setup, I've got a BX-2 running my centers, if I had a passive sub I'd probably try to run that with it too (2-3-4 configurable). No fans for me, thanks. Inputs come from either the matching CX-1 preamp (4ch audio) or a Pio SC-99 (surround), switching paths through a dbx 200xg to a pair of 223 crossovers. I actually use the 200xg to also switch between east-facing (L-980 front) or west-facing (L-1590 front), but the sweet spot for facing east is taken up by my rack setup being pushed out for easier rear access... It does seem to have gotten a little out of hand... Cheers, - Jeff
  7. Biamping L1590 anyone doing it?

    1590 xover frequency is 350Hz, match the internal 12dB/octave and call it done. Amps should be capable of high current and good damping factor. I'm sending 200wrms to each side of ADS crossover - enough and not too much. Recall that each circuit is 4 ohm. Limiting factor for SPL will be the tweeter protection, although if you use program with a lot of subsonic content you can hurt the woofers - I use a subwoofer below 100Hz after hurting an L-980 (ouch). If you're using Series 1, make sure you source spare tweeter fuses as you won't find them collecting dust on shelves at Radio Shack. And despite lore on wires, I do lean to "large" - for instance, my amps are 20A capable and I think that's part of why they work sooo well. I suppose the DSP and microphone could be useful for making sure levels smoothly align on a white noise spectrum if you're using mis-matched power amps, but your ear will tell you that pretty darn close I'd expect. My dbx crossovers have detents on the adjustments, made it easy to set it all up uniformly. Applying the 'tech' to white noise will tell you more about the room than the speakers (assuming everything is healthy) and something like a dbx 14/10 can help you dial in; I think that belongs in your preamp effects loop rather than in your crossovers though. Good luck however you proceed, I'm sure you will enjoy. - Jeff
  8. Biamping L1590 anyone doing it?

    No, the one in the 1590. I am blessed with huge amplifier power*, with matching damping factor. Amplifier headroom, the usual driver for bi-amping, was not an issue for me. The change in sound stage, in my room, was profound. The only major difference I can figure is the crossovers. Cheers, - Jeff * amplification: 2 dbx BX-1's. Look 'em up if you're curious. A/D/S speakers love their CURRENT.
  9. Biamping L1590 anyone doing it?

    The big surprise to my ear was the dbx 223 clearly outperforming the ADS crossover. Maybe not night vs day, but certainly half-moon vs day. YMMV, but that's $100 I am not going to re-spend for a long, long time. Best, - Jeff
  10. any tips for Walnut touch-up?

    My similar Olde English stuff seemed too dark, maybe this is a better match. I was really thinking more along the lines of a fine paintbrush for a couple nicks & scratches but maybe this is the best way. So Kent, have you tried this on actual 25+ year old ADS walnut? I thought I recalled these were lacquered but they don't seem much like other things I have in that finish. The wood does seem "thirsty". Thanks, - Jeff
  11. any tips for Walnut touch-up?

    Howdy - I figure this would be the right place to ask - has anyone found a stain or such that's a good match for touching up nicks/dents/scratches etc, the kind that don't tempt you to re-finish? And since I've opened the concept, how about the inevitable sun bleaching? Has anyone found a treatment that "helps", either preventing or minimizing? I have a lot of ADS walnut around this place and I'd love to #1 prevent further degradation and #2 lessen some of the "hey, look at me" things that happen (especially to used buys). I bet I'm not the only one... Cheers, - Jeff
  12. Biamping L1590 anyone doing it?

    I found pro sound xovers to be pretty reasonable, I'm using dbx223s. I actually have four corners bi-amped (980s in the opposite corners) so I needed two of them, but they were readily available around $100. Cheers, - Jeff
  13. Biamping L1590 anyone doing it?

    Oh my yes. I enjoyed my 1590s and their subtle imaging with good spaciousness in my fairly large room. Then I got my crossovers and amps set up - the improvement in imaging was phenomenal. I did not think I had any amplifier headroom issues at all, I have power best measured in horsepower. But within moments of first firing with the biamp scheme my head exploded. Enjoy! - Jeff
  14. A/D/S/ L1590

    I have been quite frustrated with room correction of late. I finally got my 1590s to the point where it was time to try letting my dbx 14/10 do its' thing. Killed the imaging in the midrange, very disappointing. Perhaps I just like the coloration of my room, and many others I've had! I'm looking forward to having a friend do a sweep with a more modern and non-consumer RTA to see what that shows. Coming back to BayouTigers' frustrations, unless you can actually meet an original owner, assume nothing with gear this old. I'd suggest checking the numbers on the drivers, there are so many part numbers of same-sized drivers that confirming the correct pieces seems like step 1 to me. Meanwhile, my real reason for chiming in was the bi-amp comments above. My amplification is pure overkill, as in dbx BX-1. Huge current capability and no fan. Anyway with no headroom worries beyond enough 120v supply, I did not expect a big change when switching to bi-amp, but WOW what a huge difference in imaging. I've always had room trouble getting the imaging I know my many varied ADS speakers can do, to the point of calling most of them "overgrown headphones". A works in "exactly this spot" kind of thing. Well, when I set up my 1590s the imaging was limited, but there if you listened for it, in the main listening position. To my surprise, adding some PA crossovers (dbx 223, found quite reasonably) (I have plenty of channels) made the whole thing "light up" with presence, instrument placement and even movement, and not just "right there" either. To say I was pleasantly surprised would be my understatement of an admittedly young year. Best, - Jeff
  15. ADS L1590/2: Russian Matryoshka Doll - Any Help Appreciated

    Agreed - my experience with several sets of ADS is the caps are fine. Same goes for the Atelier line, so far at least <g>. Satellites don't need periodic service either - same stuff. Your mystery switch is a HF rolloff. I believe it's -1.5dB but can't tell you where it starts offhand. Just realized the age of the OP. Hope you've figured it out by now. Happy Listening, - Jeff