Jump to content
The Classic Speaker Pages Discussion Forums

thornev

Members
  • Content Count

    50
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About thornev

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hudson Valley, NY

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. thornev

    Original AR 3a's???

    On Windows, right-click on a JPG, select "Open With" and then "Paint." Click on he "Home" tab and you will see "Resize" in the "Image" box. Click "Resize" which will open a dialog. Make sure "Percentage" and "Maintain aspect ratio" are clicked and enter "25" in the Horizontal text box ("25" stands for 25% of the original size). Click OK and then click the "File" tab. Then click "Save as" so you keep the original and save your smaller image as another filename. Pay attention to the folder selected in the "Save as" dialog as that's where your reduced-size JPG will be stored. That's it. If you're on a Mac, someone else will have to help. Thorne
  2. thornev

    AR speaker low frequency perspective

    Now why can't the rest of the world have such civilized discourse ! Thank you to both of you for demonstrating that compassion and caring win out over unabashed ridicule. Thorne
  3. thornev

    Bi-wiring a pair of AR-2Ax

    So, Jerry... Since I inferred from your post that the 2 output transformers do not share a common ground (did I get that right?), I wired each side of the Fisher to the AR-2Ax's. That is, on the Fisher, there are 2 sets of speakers to select. I wired "speaker 1" to the woofer lugs and "speaker 2" to the mid tweeter lugs. And of course I still have the common leads not connected at the speaker side for the mid tweeter. Is that OK? I tried it and so far nothing has blown up. So I'm bi-wiring the 2AX's with just the Fisher. It sounds damn good... much better than the setup I had with the speaker selector box. Only thing I'm wondering about is impedances. I'm setup such that the woofer is 8 ohms and the mid tweeter is 8 ohms. I have 8 ohm L-pads connected to the mid and to the tweeter. The speakers are 8 ohms when they are not bi-wired. I don't know the individual driver impedances and I don't know if the crossovers in the speakers affect the impedance numbers. Thorne PS... Uh oh. All of a sudden I was getting no signal from the woofers in the 2AX's. Gulp. Time to hook them up to something else to test.
  4. thornev

    Bi-wiring a pair of AR-2Ax

    The company that manufactures the 905B, TEC, is in Taiwan. I found their web site and sent an email requesting a schematic. We shall see. Thorne
  5. thornev

    Bi-wiring a pair of AR-2Ax

    Aha ! Maybe that accounts for why lately the Fishers aren't sounding as good as they used to. I'll have to research this. Thanks for pointing this out.
  6. thornev

    Bi-wiring a pair of AR-2Ax

    Here's a description of the 905B: The NEW TEC-905B speaker selector with volume control will allow you to use two stereos with up to 10 speakers (5 pairs) placed around the house, restaurant, office, warehouse etc. You can turn each set of speakers on and off, and adjust the volume for each pair as well. The input for the TEC-905B comes from your stereos, amps, receivers, etc. This just means you take the speaker wires from the back of your stereo, amp, etc. and plug them into the either input terminals on the back of the TEC-905B. Each speaker pair has independent rotary volume control. Volume adjustment and impedance matching is accomplished through internal heavy-duty multi-trapped transformers for each speaker. This allows complete, independent control of each pair with maximum efficiency and virtually no generation of heat. The built-in precision auto impedance correction and overload protection circuits will safe-guard your amplifiers and speakers from damage due to excessively low impedance when all 10 speakers are playing at the same time. Rear gold plated color coded professional grade banana socket connections accept up to 12AWG wires. Also has headphone input with individual volume control as well. Features: Dual source inputs Five speaker pairs output Each pair of speakers can be alternatively switched to either amplifier A or B Accepts up to 12 gauge speaker wire via gold plated banana socket connections Frequency response: 20 Hz to 20 kHz High efficiency transformer based designed, fully automatic amplifier impedance protection Compatible impedance with 4 - 16 ohm speakers 100W RMS, 200W peak per channel power handling Individual rotary volume controls Master ON/OFF switch connects and disconnects the signal distribution from the amplifiers to the speakers Dimensions: 2.25"H x 15.5"L x 8.5"W Weight : 12 lb Headphone input with volume control Pre-printed zone and equipment list label included for easy speaker connection identification Sturdy metal enclosure Passive design, no power required
  7. thornev

    Bi-wiring a pair of AR-2Ax

    Jerry, When you say "not a common ground amp", what exactly do you mean? I've done restoration on the Fisher and I always used the chassis as ground, not that that has anything to do with the common of the speaker leads. Thorne PS - I do not have a schematic for the 905B. I'll look.
  8. thornev

    Bi-wiring a pair of AR-2Ax

    Without looking back through my posts I am guessing I omitted a very important device in my setup that has misled everyone... I have 2 receivers/amps: a Fisher 500-C and a Marantz 2265B. And I have 2 pair of speakers. Both amps and each pair of speakers are hooked up to a TEC TC-905B Speaker Distribution Center. The objective was to be able to listen to either pair of speakers playing media through either receiver. I can actually have all 4 speakers playing whatever audio source is playing on either receiver. Thorne PS - TEC is Technolink Enterprise Co. in Taiwan.
  9. thornev

    Bi-wiring a pair of AR-2Ax

    Thanks very much, Jerry, for the lengthy explanation and for validating that I wired my AR-2Ax's correctly. After a few weeks of bi-wiring my 2AX's, I'm not so sure I like them that way. I'm not sure, but it sounds like the speakers are holding back. Then again, if I'm understanding what some have said above, there is no discernible difference between normal and bi-wiring the way I did it. My Marantz 2265B is not a tube amp, but I do know that no amp likes to run for very long without a load. Thorne
  10. thornev

    Bi-wiring a pair of AR-2Ax

    Thanks, Bob. You may be right. It might be placebo, but I could swear the highs are a tad more full with the bi-wiring. Thorne
  11. thornev

    Bi-wiring a pair of AR-2Ax

    RTally - What we don't know is how these 2 receivers are wired for each pair of speaker outputs. (or do you know the Fisher 500-C and Marantz 2265B?) I assume that each receiver sends the same amp output to each set of speaker outputs and therefore that would not classify as bi-amping. The Fisher 500-C has 4 power tubes if that helps. The Marantz is solid state. I know I made it sound like I am bi-amping, but the truth is I don't really know. I apologize if I was misleading. Are you're saying that the 2Ax's only need one HOT wire to terminal 2 (the woofer) and the tweeter requires both a common and HOT at terminals 1 and T? Like I said, the 2Ax has only 3 terminals. One other thing... I'm not running the 2 receivers at the same time. I have both of them hooked up to a speaker selector box so I can choose which amp powers which set of speakers. But I have only one of the receivers powered on at any one time.
  12. thornev

    Bi-wiring a pair of AR-2Ax

    bfastr... I think what you say about the common being shared is what's going on in the AR 2Ax because I get good sound out of the highs and lows. The 2 amps I'm using to drive the speakers are Fisher 500-C and Marantz 2265B. Both of them have outputs for 2 pair of speakers. I doubt they are 2 separate amps. They're probably the same single amp sending the same signal to both speaker outputs. I was worried that I might be doing damage to the amps by wiring this way, but so far it looks like everything is fine. I'll try measuring at the speaker outputs to see what I get. If anything is different I would expect it would be the impedance in that I'm driving the speakers individually now instead of as the drivers tied together through the internal crossovers. In other words I worry that I'm drawing twice the power from the amp because of sending the 2 sets of speaker outputs to a single pair of speakers that are setup to be bi-amped (they have the bar that connects the highs and lows). Thorne UPDATE: I checked the commons on all speaker outputs and there is continuity between them. Since they share a common, I apparently don't need that 22nd common that dangles on the back of the AR-2Ax. Is impedance perhaps a problem i.e. the hi and lo in each speaker may be drawing twice the power from the amp? Since they have an internal crossover, maybe each driver draws only what they need?
  13. thornev

    Bi-wiring a pair of AR-2Ax

    There are 4 wires per speaker coming from the amp. There are 3 terminals on the speaker. Yes, I left the COM, which is one of the 4 wires, unattached. I've attached 2 snapshots. Thorne terminal 1 (top, woofer) is COM (-) from amp. terminal 2 (middle, woofer) is HOT (+) from amp. terminal T (bottom, midrange and tweeter) is HOT (+) from amp. I don't know what to do about the dangling COM (-). Connect it to other COM on top? Thorne
  14. I searched the forum, but found nothing specific. I've bi-wired my 2Ax's to simulate bi-amping. It was a challenge to figure out how to do it with only 3 terminals. Usually there are 4. So what I did was to wire one amp's COMmon (-) and HOT (+) to terminals 1 and 2 respectively which is the woofer. The other amp I wired the HOT (+) to terminal T and left COMmon (-) unattached. It seems to work fine, but I want to make sure I'm not causing the amps to draw too much power. I'm assuming the speakers are 8 ohm loads. Does this hookup sound OK? Please, no comments about the bi-wire versus bi-amp controversy, nor if bi-anything makes a difference. Thanks, Thorne
  15. thornev

    2ax L-pad check ? please

    Mike - I use that caulking too. It is a nuisance to remove the caulking. I use a wood chisel to get into the cracks between the woofer and surrounding wood enclosure. The chisel helps to remove the caulk and to pry the speaker away from the enclosure. I'm very careful not to apply too much pressure that it damages the enclosure. Usually takes me about 20 minutes using that method. Thorne
×