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About bfastr

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    Music City USA
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    Vintage AR and Marantz gear
  1. Hi, New With New To Me AR-2ax Pair

    Sounds great Sara! but You are killing me with the 2270. now I have to find a nice Marantz of my own. As for the sound I had the same conclusion, my tweeters are not super bright, but they are there. the mid is loud by comparison, and overall the speakers have a nice sound so I concur with your review. Mine are paired with my AR4-ax's and between them I have a nice balance of highs and lows. But my 4's have replacement tweeters that have always been very bright. As for mine, I changed course on the caps, I bought a kit of potting epoxy and planned to put the caps in the wax box, but then I decided to leave that alone and mount the new caps on point to point terminals. I used some new style fake cloth covered wire that is really cloth over pvc that I use in old guitar amp restorations. I have a bunch on hand and wasn't about to buy more wire just for a few inches. I cleaned up the original pots and tucked it all back together. I am very pleased with the sound. but I am a little sad the project is done! I still have a plan to restore the old AR4's next, but for now I am just enjoying the sounds. Bob F
  2. Hi, New With New To Me AR-2ax Pair

    WOW !! Sara, The pot looks pretty good, mine were full of crud. I picked up some electronic potting epoxy. I am going to put the new caps in the old "case" and use two part epoxy to seal it all up. The Marantz looks fantastic, I can almost hear it now. I am very jealous. Bob
  3. Hi, New With New To Me AR-2ax Pair

    Sara, I am going to guess your pots are green and corroded like mine. after you open them soak them in vinegar. then hit them with a brass brush. HOPEFULLY the wiper isnt worn thru. as for the cap's. those readings are pretty close to what I get on my original cap's. I ordered ( and already received) new caps from parts express that I will be potting inside the old shell. other than that the guts of yours look really good Bob
  4. Hi, New With New To Me AR-2ax Pair

    Thanks Tom. that answers exactly what I was looking for and then some. I like knowing the details like that! Bob
  5. Hi, New With New To Me AR-2ax Pair

    Thanks! Simple it is. They will match my AR-4's too. I can live without the stick pin "a".
  6. Hi, New With New To Me AR-2ax Pair

    I have a question for the experts. Which grill badges should my 1968 2ax models have? they are the cloth surround vintage and Alnico woofers. I see what looks like early 2ax's with a large "ARinc" in one corner and a script "a" in another, and then I see 2ax's with the AR-2ax badge. Personally I like the simplicity of the big ARinc badge. But, I am also a stickler for having them the way they came from the factory. Maybe the big ARinc are on 2a's ? Bob F
  7. Hi, New With New To Me AR-2ax Pair

    LOL !! Frank, You will have to wait for Sarals to install them. My Speakers are the earlier version with the cloth surrounds, so I have a different set of challenges. Most of my work will be on the crossovers and inside. Bob F
  8. Hi, New With New To Me AR-2ax Pair

    That is fantastic news! The stuffing looks like its never been disturbed. That is promising. I would rather have things original and worn out than "fixed" by someone else.
  9. 2 ax replacement caps?

    I am late to the party, so I dont know where or what you bought, but if they were sold as crossover caps they should be non polarized, meaning, it doesn't matter which way you orient them. Bob F
  10. My AR4 tale of misery

    Well, my intent is not to damage the cabinets or speakers. So a soft touch on anything I try is going to be the ticket. It will be my luck to get too much solvent and then too much heat. and then the fireman show up and well, you know...
  11. My AR4 tale of misery

    thats another great idea. I have a a bunch of guitar strings around, I will try using an .009 and work my way thicker if it breaks. I bet after a soak with chemicals I can work the string under the edge.
  12. My AR4 tale of misery

    Thanks Larrybody, they once were 4x speakers, and I am guessing probably from the 71-72 vintage. I found some 4x woofers already and bought them. didnt want to go that route, but after thinking about things, my goal is to really make the speakers true AR speakers again. Sooo, once they get here I am going all in on these. Thanks for the tip, I read up on softening RTV and your tips echo some of the things I read. they did mention trichloroethylene as well. way back in my early days we used that in semi conductor manufacturing along with xylene. we did some crazy things with those and a slew of others. I have MEK and acetone and some other hazmat chemicals on hand, I didnt think of using a syringe, but I will try that. The other thing I may try is getting a couple turn buckles and making small jacks to push out from the inside. I hope to save the current woofers, but truthfully my intent now is to make these back into factory AR spec. I have to work on the patience tho !! Bob F
  13. My AR4 tale of misery

    I thought I better put this in a new thread. I picked up a set of AR2-ax speakers that I am working on and mention in another thread. But that led me to try and correct a set of 4's that my dad bought new, but that I "improved" back around 1981 when I was clearly smarter than the engineers at AR... So here is my problem. The cab's are in great shape, but back in the day I gutted them and put in speakers from Madisound. I spent a lot of time on crossovers and speaker selection and I think they sound pretty good. BUT, they are no longer AR4's. I even drilled a giant hole and glued in a spring loaded plastic POS speaker wire terminal. so now with the availability parts on ebay I picked up original tweeters. and a set of crossovers and masonite boards that are in great shape. ( if you are the seller, thank you, these are great, even the cap's are in spec) I thought maybe I could yank the tweeters and crossovers I "upgraded" and go back to the original stuff. The problem is I used black RTV silicon to seal the woofers and tweeters in place. I can pry out the tweeters. but the woofers fit so close to the routed area there is no way to pry them out without doing damage. I tried reaching inside and pushing them out with no luck. I hate to risk destroying these woofers as they still sound pretty good and If I am going to buy replacement AR4 woofers, I may as well find another pair of complete un molested speakers. I dont know that I have a question for the group. just kind of venting at my own stupidity years ago and wishing there was an easy way to pop out the woofers with destroying things. my goal was to install original crossovers and tweeters to get close to the original sound and design. If I thought I could get a hydraulic jack in the tweeter hole I would try that. but it wont fit. arrrghhh.. something to be said for finding 50 year old speakers that are un-molested , regardless of their condition. better than having ME improve them for you !!! Bob F
  14. Hi, New With New To Me AR-2ax Pair

    I like your thinking. I like "hiding" the new caps in the old box. I know I will be the only person to ever know they are in there, excluding everyone reading this!! But after looking at my notes I agree that I need to get the values back where they belong, so before I open speaker #2 I am going to buy new caps. I am assuming that speaker is out of spec too. And frankly, caps are cheap in the grand scheme of things. Bob F
  15. Hi, New With New To Me AR-2ax Pair

    After a week with my new 2's I decided to take a peek inside one of them today. They are both lacking in the highs, but one of them seems to be marginal in that the pot is twitchy and it comes and goes, since the other one had nothing I started there. Upon removing the woofer the things look like they should. The solder joints looked a little sloppy to me for a production speaker so I assume someone has been here before me. Thankfully the paper and stuffing all seem to be as it should and once removed the original crossover and pots are there! no signs of somebody trying to "improve" things in the last 50 years! I think someone has been here tho, there is no black stuff on the retaining wire to the pots. hmmmm.....Solder joints look pretty original, and the corrosion on the ends of the bolts holding the midrange in looks like it hasn't been disturbed. Working from the woofer hole I unsoldered the pots one at a time and replaced them with a set of old pots I picked up online and had cleaned prior. While the caps were disconnected I checked the values with a Fluke DVM. sadly I get 16uf for the 4 and 22uf for the 6. darn it. Well leaving those as is, I replaced the pots and buttoned things up. I cleaned all the original (?) black caulking off the woofer and the cabinet and replaced it with several strips of new 3M strip caulk I had laying around. Put it all together and presto !! its like a new speaker. WOW a full range of sound and all three speakers doing their thing. Now the pots are still a little sketchy, there are some drop out spots, but they work about 90% of the range. Upon inspection of the two pots removed the tweeter pot had a failed brass wiper. Also for anyone keeping score there was a date code on the tweeter, I think it was the tweeter..hmm anyway it said DEC 20 1968. this is in S/N AX103602 The question now is, do I hang new capacitors in there? or just leave it as it is? I cant recall off the top of my head where the crossover moves with a change of capacitance. Bob F