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jessiAV

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About jessiAV

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    medical electronic tech, Classic audio, travel

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  1. jessiAV

    WANTED/IDENTIFY - Speaker Cable 1960's Astor Audiophonic

    Fortunately, your problem is a disconnected, and not shorted, wire. Chances are highest that the wire is broken where it enters the molded plug. If so, you could try opening the wire's insulated covering there and look for a break. It may also be necessary to cut part of the molded plug as well, for better access. The lesser possibility is that the wire has broken at the tip of the metal pin, especially if it is soldered. Heating and re-flowing the solder ~may~ reconnect things then. To maximize the possibility of success, my suggestion is, that unless you are very skilled at soldering, to take your cable to a electronic repair facility and get their thoughts on fixing it. Be prepared for the likelihood that they will have to do the above work and alter the appearance of the plug.
  2. jessiAV

    WANTED/IDENTIFY - Speaker Cable 1960's Astor Audiophonic

    In these older cables, due to a absence of serviceable replacements I have typically been moved to repair the existing items. Can your plug covers be successfully opened to allow repair? There does not appear to be any seams in this picture but it would be odd that a fully molded plug would short internally..
  3. jessiAV

    Too much power for speakers?

    Your Nakamichi PA7(Threshold Stasis) amplifiers have channel-independent DC offset and high signal or heat protection circuits that should protect your speakers under most conditions. They shouldn't need fuses but your classic Marantz amps really should have a fuse in each speaker line, if just to protect your speakers from DC damage should the output transistors short. As the guys above point out, an amplifier producing distortion can really hurt a Classic Speaker, and a fuse may or may not help with that. The best protection for your audio system is a sensitive human ear controlling the amplifier.
  4. jessiAV

    KLH Model Six

    hi Kent, I couldn't agree more about the rear plate. My solution to sealing was to put a bead of sealant inside cabinet hole where the wood and metal plate meet, but I'd be really curious how you will do it.
  5. jessiAV

    KLH Model Six

    Is it possible there are resistors or caps hiding inside the epoxy? I can't see any but that is how KLH did it in the earliest Six's..
  6. jessiAV

    How Long Have You Owned AR Speakers?

    Saved my AR4x's from destruction in early 2014 and refinished their poor little water stained cabinets. They were replaced last year with later 2ax's that were in lovely nick (even the grills), needing only new woofer surrounds.
  7. jessiAV

    Opinions on Fisher vs Scott preamps for A25s?

    Why not consider a pair of PAM preamps?
  8. jessiAV

    KLH 20 Turntable and Speakers Help

    How comfortable are you with electronic repair? Your KLH 20 stereo system's missing audio channel may not be due to a bad amplifier since it's output stage is capacitor coupled. Yes, the signal loss may well be due to a corroded contact in one of the very old top panel switches. It may even be due to a bad output cap. See this link for it's location: http://www.raincityaudio.us/audio/klh-model-20-electrical-overhaul My guess is that these turntables use an idler wheel to transmit rotation from the motor spindle to the platter. You will know more when you remove the platter itself. Cleaning and/or replacing the idler wheel and the surfaces where it contacts may be all that is necessary. When these stereos are stored on a garage or similar moist location for long periods, the resulting corrosion can stiffen or seize the motor shaft, and freeing them is best done slowly and carefully using various weights and types of oils. These are just simple guesses as diagnosing at this distance is extremely difficult.
  9. jessiAV

    KLH history update....model six

    If this would be of interest(?); original untouched KLH Six epoxy woofer with textured cone, serial number 068038
  10. jessiAV

    KLH 17, variance in impedance, pair of tweeters

    If it will help, here is a schematic of the crossover. I'm afraid I can not remember where this was posted.
  11. jessiAV

    KLH 17, variance in impedance, pair of tweeters

    Welcome, and congratulations in finding such a nice pair of classic speakers. KLH did use (red/orange?) wire nuts in wiring their drivers. My untouched KLH model Six's have them. So n worries there. The tweeter capacitors KLH used are well known to fail over time. It does not indicate abuse. The difference in resistance you've found in your tweeters may indicate a problem, but a way to tell is to run audio through them. Hopefully they are okay
  12. jessiAV

    Dynaco 70 PA's and fm proper connectioms

    hi Dirk, To help the members here answer your inquiry, can you give an idea as to the size/shape of the listening room the Dyna 70/PAS will be plying into, as well as the volume and dynamics of your preferred recordings? You are correct about the Dhalquist's (and your Magnapan's) lower efficiency characteristics. However, at moderate volumes they can shine with tubes. The Cornwalls are the opposite of course, very efficient. And Dynaco speakers are always a lovely match with Dynaco tube gear.. There, I completely failed to answer your question ! ::laughing:: BTW, we live fairly near each other.
  13. jessiAV

    Restoration stopped at woofer

    My feeling here is that your first step should be to see if your voice coil wiring is intact and conducting current. This is really best done with an ohm meter. If the voice coil form is tight/rubbing in the magnetic gap and you have seen some separation, that may indicate a damaged coil but a meter will tell you for certain. As far as polarity is concerned, if you were to solder the braided wires to the wrong terminals, all that would be necessary to correct things is to switch the wires connecting to the woofer.
  14. jessiAV

    Anyone drive OLAs or NLAs with tube amp/preamp?

    My OLA's are driven by a Matisse tube circuit line stage (dual triode, no tone controls or phono preamp) driving a solid state amp. I feel this combination matches the Advent's better than my previous all SS configuration. The tube line stage seems to be more symbiotic with the tweeter and the OLA's well known midrange 'bump' isn't as noticeable.
  15. jessiAV

    Hi, New With New To Me AR-2ax Pair

    When it was necessary last Fall (2017) to refoam my new-to me AR 2ax woofers (1973 vintage?), I also did not want to cut the center cap. I have the ~highest~ regard for Roy and if he says it is the best way to align the AR's former in the VC gap, then it is. Should I do another AR refoam, I would definitely consider shimming. Happily, the VC gap in these woofers seems to be wide enough that my hand-centering has been acceptable. My reason back then to leave the center cap intact was, before finding CSP, I wasn't sure if I could properly re-adhere it to the cone. I always trust AR for using the best glue and gluing techniques. Unlike my AR4x's, the 2ax's center cap appears capable of producing lower midrange energy, and I was unwilling to mess with those critical frequencies. Maybe I was just being silly with a 40-something year old driver, but I do believe in retaining the manufacturer's original construction whenever possible.
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