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About ReggaeBen

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  • Birthday 04/23/1981

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    Vintage Audio, classic muscle cars and motorcycles. Latin women (who doesn't right?!)

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  1. ReggaeBen

    AR-5 crossover questions

    Wow! I have to say how fortunate you are to have a consecutive numbered pair, that appears all original, extremely good score! The only real way to measure the caps are to pull at least one wire (two in this case as the wax cap is dual, serving both woffer and mid) then meaure, thus it removes it from the circuit and can be reliably measured. The one to leave connected can be the ground wire, found by using your meter or simply by eye. Unsolder at the rheostats to measure and If you go ahead with recapping then you cut right at the beginning of the wax block to resuse the wires. I cleaned up my rheostats using the salt and vinegar method but as it was my first time ever doing so I'd wait for some other opinions to come through before you decide, so long as all corrosion is removed and genorously protected you can't really lose. Enjoy those 5's.. btw, do download the AR3a restoration guide found here on the site, greatly helpful.. Ben
  2. ReggaeBen

    AR-6 Restoration

    Just a quick mention from me, I did measure my Sprauge cap with both a low cost ESR meter and my Fluke, while I actually do think the ESR meter can measure esr okay (based only upon comparing various resistor measurements of my ESR meter and my Fluke, they were almost identical), however capacitor readings were off compared to the Fluke and of which I'll trust. I find it interesting also that you have the rheostat and the woofer with cap/resistor setup, cool keep up the good work. Ben
  3. ReggaeBen

    Australian AR6's resto

    Hi all, Some really useful information being shown here to add to the AR6 resources. I've now been listening to the speakers for the past few days and they're sounding very impressive! At this stage they are not fully finished as I'm going on holiday and wanted to get them to this point for when I come back home. I was a little nervous about how these would turn out with the cap arrangements but I can honestly say they they work well. Even in the pre amp stage in my Marantz I fitted those Russian PIO caps to good effect, they add realism to the sound. For using a 10+12 uf instead of 12+12 was to aim for 24 uf as all of these lytics measured on the higher side, when it came to the mounting I just attached them where the originals had been, there were no issues when it came to refitting the woofer. When stuffing the cabs with 16oz new fibreglass (originally was purple poly fill) I sat the cabs side by side with the weighed fill in bags. Then slowly started filling from the top a section at a time while watching and feeling for consistency between the two. Even weighing the bags some more to try get this close as I could to each other, took a little extra time but I feel is important. Oh, and I had been mislead by some of those last cap measurements, I used the reading off my el cheapo ESR meter and not the Fluke. The sprauge reads 10.7 uf so is still in spec, the others are out of spec, but not quite as high as first posted. The ESR meter seems to measure resistors the same as the Fluke so hopefully all my ESR have been okay. I'll keep onto that cap ra.ra, postage may be something like 20 bux, I'll find out anyway next I'm at the post office and pm you. Now there is a little issue, when I boxed them up I found them to be very air tight, like when I push the come down there is resistance and they come back rather slowly. I used the black caulk on both the tweeter and woofer, I like it for the cost factor but it can be frustrating at times so I'll start using foam next. Any tips on getting the seal correct? And yes, I also understand it's to be an acoustic seal, not air. One seems a little bit fimer than the other and I had to adjust my ballance pot to get an even db reading from the pair at the woofers. Really like those old AR brochure adds, it's great to have a hobby with nostalgic appeal too. Cheers
  4. ReggaeBen

    Australian AR6's resto

    Been working to get these finished sooner rather than later, to many projects to complete.. Found something on the schematic that doesn't quite look right, think it's only a small error but if the case can someone please confirm? The yellow wire goes directly from the negative hookup to the negative connection on the tweeter, as is the case on my crossover but here it is marked by a +. I am changing to rear wired tweeters this is how I spotted it. To try out something different, I made the tweeter cap up with what I only have left, a "captail" of sorts.. PE Lytic 4 uf x2 Russian k40y PIO .22 uf Dayton FF 0.1 uf All measured up a tad under 9 uf , ESR 0.24. They at least will drift upwards no doubt. If it works out alright then good, but I'll likely go with something more tried and true, just don't have many new caps left. Peace
  5. ReggaeBen

    My AR speakers story

    Bienvenidos Kikicho, The 38's appear in great shape and the tweeter looks as thought it was an easy fit, great find! I know there are a few versions in the AR4 line, guys on here will happily help you with identifying yours and guide along with putting together a second speaker. The tweeter you have fitted here, to me, looks like one from an AR14. Buen suerte! Ben
  6. ReggaeBen

    Australian AR6's resto

    Great way of doing it LARrybody, I figured of doing it the same way too, just measured the inner lip of foam and used that measurement. You'll see I favored green on the one completed!
  7. ReggaeBen

    Australian AR6's resto

    Second woofer recaped and cleaned off much of the glue, just awaiting the surround now. I'll take on that tomorrow as It's late here Down Under..
  8. ReggaeBen

    Australian AR6's resto

    Okay so spent last night refitting the cone into the basket. I took care cleaning the bottom masonite ring and the spider before applying the Gorilla Grip epoxy glue. Once the glue was laid down I fitted the cone and lined up where the lead wires line up with the terminal, then working delicately I fitted the shims. The glue was good in the fact it didn't go off too fast, giving me time to raise and lower the cone a couple of times, remove and refit the shims just to make sure all was settling in nicely. The glue took about 30 mins before it didn't need anymore pressing down around the edges. Moving on to this morning, I checked the re-glue and all good. I now stared to fit the Boston Acoustics filled fillet surround. I let the glue get tacky first which helped a lot because, man..are these tricky to fit!! I had to just keep on pushing inward to my pencil line until the glue held it all in place, a bit nerve racking as its not something you want to make a mistake on. I continued the outermost edge in the normal fashion without issues. The best part is that the mysterious clicking noise has disappeared, happy about that. Caps used were PE ltyhic 10+12 uf that measured 24 uf and bypassed with Dayton FF 0.1 uf that was polarity tested using a scope. ESR measured 0.24 Ohm. Second woffer next up. Ben
  9. ReggaeBen

    Australian AR6's resto

    I'm onboard with the whole mix and match issue now too ra.ra, thank you. Now that when someone tries googling "best AR6 crossover" they should be led to this and see that they are all the best 😊 Tonight was spent on measuring the components in the crossovers and all drivers I have. Here is what I've found- Cabinet A Woofer- 6.0 Ohm Tweeter- 4.4 Ohm 10uf Sprague Compulytic - 11.76 uf, 0.19 ESR 24 uf Industrial cap has been replaced with an "ME" brand 22 uf 100v - 24.09 uf, 0.31 ESR 10 Ohm resistor - 10.03 Ohm Cabinet B Woofer- 5.9 Ohm Tweeter- 4.4 Ohm 10 uf Industrial Royalitic - 17.6 uf, 0.50 ESR 24 uf Industrial Royalitic - 33.40 uf, 3.0 ESR! 10 Ohm resistor - 10.02 Ohm 200014-3 tweeters from AR17 4.7 and 4.9 Ohm Spare 200014-3 tweeter with pushed in cone - 4.7 Ohm. I've notched out one of tweeter openings to fit the new tweeter already and something to watch for was that the new tweeter didn't line up exactly with the holes, probably a bit of tolerance in the production process. So the t nut had to come out, the hole slightly made larger and then the t nut could be re fitted and sealed with glue. How did you rewire in the new rear wired tweeters? Did you simply snip the existing green and yellow wires from the inside of the baffle and connect with new spade connections then fit? With your friends 6's have non matching caps as too do mine and seeing that I don't think I'll be trying to source another Sprague cap, would you like to have mine? Ben
  10. ReggaeBen

    Australian AR6's resto

    Thanks as always ra.ra, your knowledge shared here is invaluable, particularly so regarding the AR6. Do you have any new threads open on your current projects? I hadn't read the first thread but had the second, seems that there is some preference to the the simplified crossover but also the "B" version as are mine. Going by recommendations on CSP to take your time with the work and also that mine are already correct B versions then I will keep them as such. To answer your question about the second capacitor, its the Industrial Royalitic long life, I'll post pics of all measured caps shortly. Regarding the tweeter change, my reasoning is that I bought a pair of the FF cooled tweets to put into use and then as to have spares on hand. The pair in these cabs will most likely go into replace my other pair of early model 6's as they both have pushed in dimples and one presents a little harshness at higher volumes. Then there will still remain two spares for the future. Will the FF cooled be compatible with the 10uf cap in the "B" version crossover? My thinking is, yes. Perhaps it's only that they aren't as popular as their bigger siblings or that there's just less folk who own and listen to them, but whatever the case is these are an astonishing litte speaker! Cheers Ben
  11. ReggaeBen

    Australian AR6's resto

    Ahh...so I'm back to work on my next little project, this time my Aussie 6's. They'd been playing fine and are in great shape already to begin with therefore I wouldn't expect I'll need to spend a great deal of time on this job. Plans for these include - *replace the original tweeters for a pair of later model fero cooled (200014-3). *Boston Acoustics filled fillet surrounds. *Recap with a pair of big russian oil caps that I decided to try. *Fibreglass fill instead of the rockwool. *Bypass the inductor and cap/resistor setup found in this model for the later version that runs the woofer at full range and the tweeter cap to 6uf. *Try out Howards restor a finish (neutral) on the cabs. That's about it I figure but I welcome any more suggestions on this as I'm still fairly new to speaker resto's. Okay... now what's been done, One woofer had a clicking noise when pushed in that was bothering me a bit, I thought It may have suffered from bottoming out at some point and there could be damage to the VC. So curiosity got the better of me and I decided to remove the cone from the basket, very carefully of course! With the aid of acetone and a very potent product called MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) I softend the glue holding the spider to the basket, then used a utility blade to work it up slow and steadily. Bingo, cone now was separated. After inspection of the VC and gap I couldn't see any damage or anything to cause the noise, but what I did find was that the placement of the magnet was not square with the basket or pole "plate?" thus leaving me to think that as the VC lowers down it then gets drawn by the magnetic field to one side and hits someplace in the gap. As I can't see it doing this and Its not at precisely the same point each time, I can only say that what I'm hearing is that grabbing noise when a magnet has pulled something in. Anyhow moving ahead, since I can't see damage and couldn't detect any sonic issue I guess without breaking the speaker down even further then I'll resemble it next. I was lucky enough to find a Sprague compulytic can in the first cab but not so in the second, the first speaker was slightly clearer sounding that the other and this could likely be why. I'll keep up with posting my progress as I go along and hope this help with others that are working on the same speakers or similar models. Later all Ben
  12. ReggaeBen

    Early AR6's

    Good advice here ra.ra, I did happen to re-straighten the prongs and added an adhesive so next time the cabs are open I'll do the backs of the other flanges also. I was curious too as to the V cut on the dust cap and thought the last person who refoamed then may have done this, that was until I saw a photo of another pair recently with the same V in around the lead wires.. seems like a production thing but not sure yet why? Yeah I was taken by the high reading, the other was aprox 25uf, both out of circuit. The new P.E npe measured 11uf and I also matched the esr (with bypass added) to .31 ohm. This has improved their output and sound nicely, I decided to leave trying to pull the dimples out for another day. There is a slight rattle noise from one tweeter when played at higher volume, I'll do some detective listening with the stethoscope and generally not push them hard as I imagine this could be an age related issue. I'm still getting to know these speakers and to some degree the caps may not be broken in yet, they have a quite laid back mellow sound that goes deep in the bass, which is awesome for my dub Lp's! My tuner is locked on a classic station and they shine here too so I'm pretty pleased with the outcome. Couple of other things to mention, the fibreglass fill weight were both 16oz per cab. The tape covering the VC on the woofers was coming away in places so I figured it best to reglue it back down. The design would want air only to come via the spider and if it were leaking in around the tape I'd imagine a slight change in frequency not desired and also an entry for debris. I'll get a couple of pics up soon as I also cleaned up the badges to good effect. Now looking forward to working on my other pair of 6's as learning from these, they're in line after the 5's..... Ben
  13. ReggaeBen

    Replacement rubber surrounds

    The following may be know to many but here's what happened with my attempt to preserve my speaker surrounds. Unfortunately now they're ruined because of using a generic rubber treatment that contained silicone, it softened them up and the tightness has disappeared from them, I'm very upset that I made this mistake when my thinking was to make them last longer. I've come about the Idea to replace them with new OEM if they are obtainable? Or find a pair from non working drivers and fit to mine. I hope that someone can offer me advice here and also this doesn't happen to somebody else with their Dynaco's. I've listed an add in the wanted section. Thanks Ben
  14. Following a recent boo boo with me wanting to care and preserve my A25 surrounds, I followed incorect information and treated the surrounds with a rubber cleaner with silicone added, that's now softened them too much. Wanting either 2 dead woofers for me to remove surrounds or help with obtaining the surrounds that look in untouched condition. Thanks for viewing Ben
  15. ReggaeBen

    Early AR6's

    Hi guys, Update here on the 6's. When they arrived I found that the the cabs had repairs to some small dings and a dark oil added, nice job. Either in transit or something went wrong when the last person had them open, I noticed a t nut that had gotten loose and ended up inside the driver, both cabs too! They'd been refoamed with the inner lip of foam glued to the bottom of the cone, guess it's going to make cleaning and preparing for refoam trickier. So I played them, yes I felt a good Bob Marley track fitting for this!, no issues other than scratchy pots and perhaps an aged sound, like meaning they would improve after a thorough go over and recap.. So far just working on the first speaker. The tweeter cone has been pushed in and slightly torn so I applied a very small amount of speaker glue to "weld" up the gap. Then came cleaning the pot, actually not bad and cleaned up fine along with a steady ohm reading. My cap chosen here is a ltyhic from P.E @ 10 uf that I've bypassed with a Russian silver mica at .01 uf, never tried this combo so hopefully this will sound sweet and natural. The original paper/wax cap tesed a little over at 30uf 😅 Now will be my first refoam on the 8" woofer, got the bose type commonly used to be fitted, shimming as recommended. Question, would anyone like to recommend me to bypass the inductors and run the woofer at full range? Or tell me to stop trying to "better" the design and leave as is. And what could I use to apply on the woffer tinsel leads to slow oxidization? Cheers Ben