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About ReggaeBen

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  1. AR-5 advice needed

    Can anyone advise me where is a place to start regarding shim thickness for this model woofer?, I'll use a micrometer tomorrow. Ty. Update- have found the shim size to be between .007-.01 inch. Now on the refoaming, do I need to remove the plastic mesh screens on the basket so I can then have better control of the cone to glue on the surround? Thanks
  2. AR-5 advice needed

    Hi, Some progress has been made with my refresh of the 5's, I'm now able to hear them play and I really like them so far. Still need to refoam because I have no prior experience but will do this quite soon as one surround is fresh and of a different roll size so their sound is slightly imbalanced. I found a pair of reconditioned rheostats that are now in place, I like to keep with originality in some cases. Working on the crossovers was fiddly from there being not a lot of room to move and I found it important to take care with soldering and not to burn your fingers!! Caps were all measured and matched for thier Uf and ESR, then glued with contact adhesive, nice and simple. I made an outline with pencil on the woofer baffle then used a fine artist brush and applied a few coats of clear varnish to fill in around where the woofer seats. This will help create a good seal along with the new caulk strips. Fibreglass was weighed for 22 ounces and firstly packed around crossover then stuffed elsewhere trying to get an even distribution throughout, and then finished with some very breathable tight knit cotton placed behind the woofer. Next up is to- *Refoam and shim. *Reseal tweet and mid.. if necessary? as its unlikely they've ever been removed and looks like special care will be needed to remove. *Make a fused link in the speakers cables for protection. Once all this is done then I'd like to learn about doing a test to assess the sound quality from the drivers ensuring that the are actually performing to spec. I welcome suggestions for doing this that would be suitable for a beginner to follow and not come at much cost. Keep enjoying your own projects as I've done with mine and thanks for reading. Ben
  3. WTB- AR 5 midrange drivers

    Shoot off an email to Larry at Vintage-AR (ebay seller), he may be able to help you.
  4. Early AR6's

    Hi everyone, These sweet looking 6's have become available for me to buy, they are early model from telling of the pot on the rear and what looks like maybe Alnico woofers? Planning on going ahead if these may be considered a bit special. Look forward to hearing some comments. Ben
  5. AR-5 advice needed

    I'm widening my understanding of L-pads and pots through various online reading, it's not quite as simple as it seems just replace an ohm for ohm etc part. The picture should become clear to me soon and I can order the chosen parts and move onto another piece of the restoration puzzle
  6. AR-5 advice needed

    Hey thanks for putting up those dimensions, I had considered their size but didn’t find the specs so thats very handy to have now seen. Yep I thought I'd understood the wattage factor too as just as you described. Now if I could get any more of an explanation just as to how the 8 ohm and 16 ohm would work differently? As I've noticed through cleaning and testing the rheostat, at the "mid" point it reads 8 ohm then decreases to 1 ohm and up to 16 ohm depending on the direction of turn. Will the 16 ohm l-pad mimic this same readings at the same positions too, will the 8 ohm l-pad? Sorry if I seem to ask many questions on the same topic, I'm not challenging at all the advice passed on to me, I know it does work well, its just I analyze things somewhat and hey it could lead to a discovery of a new approach to an application! Many thanks
  7. AR-5 advice needed

    Hi again, Thank you for the sound advice you have given and yes the guide does make an excellent reference. My curiosity though is still dwelling on what will differ from a comparison of the two variables A) using a 16 ohm l-pad over the 8 ohm B It being rated for 50W instead of 25W Would the 16 ohm would react to adjustments closer to the original rheostats than the 8 ohm? As this is still rather new ground for me I'm sure I could be unclear here (and why I ask before carrying out the task) but also possibly on the right track with this option? Btw I noticed a seller on an auction site selling a 15 ohm l-pad described as an AR factory replacement. Hope to hear back some more helpful advise, It's all very encouraging to me.. Regards Ben
  8. Hey there, it's great to see that you like the photos, funny too that you like the Euro cabs because I'd be happy to come across a pair of the US styled myself! Nice effort on those 6's ... imagine them all singing!
  9. G'day! Thought I'd share my current collection of speakers and equipment. Being into vintage audio can be quite a challenge here in Australia, we just didn't have what you guys in the USA had and therefore it makes finding speakers near impossible not to mention more costly! First system is in the Dub Lounge and began with a Marantz 1060 with JBL L100. Since then I've changed amps a couple of times and just recently found a pair of AR6, wow, this is a joyful little setup now. In the lounge room I have another recaped 1060 and sometimes run a Marantz 140 power amp that's paired with OLA'S. While at first It took getting used to the advent sound, I nowlike the room filling low frequencys of these speakers. They are quite different than most with the tweeters offset to the right instead of the normal left, only in Australia!! Not long ago a pair of Dynaco A25's poped up here on Gumtree (like Craigslist) that were an hour away from me, I checked them out and bought them home. They are setup in my bedroom paired with a 2245 receiver and go great together although would benefit greatly with better room positioning. Lastly I am working on a pair of AR5's that had some pretty rought work carried out by someone. I wish to thank everyone who contributes to this very informative Classic Speaker Pages website, and hope that I too can offer something of value to this interest. Kind regards Ben
  10. AR-5 advice needed

    Greetings all So I'm back to getting these 5's together and here's what I've done so far.. *Aquired correct AR5 woofer. *Brought another Mid for a spare. *Tested all drivers with 1.5v batt, all ok. *Removed pots (3 only) cleaned and tested okay. *Cleaned out inside of cabs. I actually can only do limited work right now as I'm nursing a broken collar bone 🤕, it's veeery frustrating! Anyhow, I'm thinking I will buy 2 L-pads instead of just the one that I require , that way keeping things matched and new plus having a spare AP rheostat. I was thinking of these 16 ohm l-pads instead of the 8ohm, any reasons I shouldn't? And where would they be better used on, tweeters or mids? https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-l-pad-attenuator-50w-mono-3-8-shaft-16-ohm--260-254 Caps are pretty well chosen, all parts express npe with bypass f&f. For the surrounds the Boston Acoustics filled fillet seem to get the best rap, then the JBL's, so I'll go with the BA's. Which tpye of glue should I consider? Lastly I think I only need to order some new 10" seals, I know people have many ways of doing this but I'm just wanting to get a pair since I'm ordering from Australia and might as well get everything in one hit. Cheers Ben
  11. AR-6 Restoration

    Hello all, Thought I might jump in on this thread as I've just recently bought a nice pair of the Australian version (?) AR6. It won't be until a week or two until then arrive home but I'm told (and praying) that they are all original, aside from the refoam. They are in nice shape and FYI I paid $230 AUD, I'll have to pay for shipping (100 +/-) but all in all I'm happy. Can those who've listened to the last crossover version, that being the full range woffer with no cap or inductor and the earlier version(s) mind sharing their thoughts on what they heard? I may consider this if it is worthwhile and I have the correct components to do so. Gabriel, how are your 6's coming along? Cheers Ben
  12. AR-5 advice needed

    Yes they sure need some attention. The link you attached has given me a good guide to follow, thank you. Because I'm currently working at sea means I can't delve into the speakers to do work, however I can get the right parts together for when I return home. I will take be taking my time on this job, don't want to make careless mistakes so I'll be sure on taking lots of photos and asking questions! Are these the correct L-pads to use? https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-l-pad-attenuator-15w-mono-3-8-shaft-8-ohm--260-248 About the parallel resistor, could someone please attach the type to use from PE? Regards Ben
  13. AR-5 advice needed

    Greetings all, This is my first post here however I've read alot of great posts regarding AR speakers and other technical goodness from you all. I came across a pair of 5's at a fair price (400 Aus $), I then asked for photos with the grills removed. The photos showed a non original woofer, I was disappointed and then realized that there could be other potential problems the original owners did not know about. So I made a deal for $200 and had them collected for me buy a friend. After opening each speaker I see the non original woffer was of very cheap build and not serves duty as a door stop The other problems found are bypassed potts and 1 missing with an l-pad in its place. The other concerning thing is that the mid and woofer caps have been removed and in place is a single 3.3uf dayton poly! (Not sure yet if it's connected with mid or woffer) It's wrong how something can be sent in for repair and given back to a customer this way.. Now I have bough an AR-5 woofer that matches on my DMM. I plan to go with NPE either bennic, parts express brand or erse and probably will use a bypass dayton F&F 0.01. Can anyone comment on this sound from these caps in their own 5's? I would like some advice however on selecting the right L-pads and parallel resistor for this, being that I have 3 original rheostats I will clean them all and likely use only 2 + the 2 L-pads just to keep things uniform on each speaker. Should I use the L-pads for the tweeters of mids? or shouldn't it matter? Thanks in advance! Ben