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About RTally

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  1. RTally

    Dynaco A25 vsDynaco A25 XL loudspeakers

    A copy of your original review is available on The Wayback Machine. Like PeteB above, I use it a lot to read pages after they disappear from their original website. Your review is at https://web.archive.org/web/20140525020316/http://www.epinions.com/review/Dynaco_A_25XL_epi/content_554942697092
  2. RTally

    KLH SCx3 General Info

    Do a search on cleaning AR pots. Your pots look very similar. Spraying DeOxit is not enough. They have to be disassembled to clean the corrosion from the contact surfaces. The general procedure is to remove the spring clip holding the halves together. The metal part is soaked and then brushed to remove the corrosion. A bit time-consuming, but it restores the pots to functioning again.
  3. RTally

    How Long Have You Owned AR Speakers?

    How long have you owned AR speakers? About 26 hours. I just bought a pair of AR-2ax speakers from the son of the original purchaser. I think it is $80 well spent. They are the early version with the cloth surrounds. How do they sound? They sound terrible! After I clean up the pots and recap them, I will have a more informed impression, though. 😀
  4. RTally

    Bi-wiring a pair of AR-2Ax

    What you describe is bi-amping, not bi-wiring. Bi-wiring is when you run two sets of wires from the speaker to a single amp/receiver. With bi-amping you have one amp/receiver driving one set of drivers and a second amp/receiver driving the other set of drivers. It sounds like you have both the Fisher and the Marantz running at the same time using the passive crossover in the speakers. I assume you have the bass driver (terms 1 & 2) connected to one receiver with a pair of wires. Then you have a third wire connecting the tweeter (term T) to the plus speaker output of your other receiver. Because your receivers have a common ground and you are connecting them together by sharing the same input signal, your speakers work. But the negative speaker output from the receiver connected to the tweeter is flowing through something that does not normally see speaker power. The idea behind bi-amping (and bi-wiring) is to have the speaker current carried by independent wires between the amps/receivers and the speaker drivers. In your case, the tweeter receiver has the current for the tweeter common flowing through a non-traditional path. That non-traditional path may be the chassis ground connected by your power cords or it may be the shields of your interconnect that ties the two receivers together. Don't do that. Your tweeter amp/receiver needs to have two wires for each channel connected to the tweeter circuit. You should connect a pair of wires for each channel to the tweeter (terms 1 and T). PS: Wiring two amps/receivers to the AR this way will fry an amp/receiver that does not have a common ground. Fortunately for you, it worked out.