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About RTally

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  1. RTally

    KLH Model Twenty

    I suggest you try them out. You might be surprised. I have a pair of Model Twenty's that I recapped and added binding posts, similar to what JKent did. I also have a pair of OLA and had a pair of NLA and Advent/1 and Legacy II. I like the 20s better, even if the OLA may dig a bit deeper.
  2. RTally

    AR3a midrange-is this normal?

    At their best, all AR speakers look cosmetically damaged. They are downright ugly with the grills off. I do not see anything unusual about your mids. Your pictures look like a bunch of other mids I see doing a google image search. The true test is do they work? Put some music to them to see if they reproduce the sound.
  3. RTally

    DSP Crossovers

    From what info is available on the miniDSP page, the miniDSP has an option to include the preamp control functions in the digital domain. Without the optional volume control, you will need a preamp to adjust listening volume. It seems that the miniDSP is a device that is tailored to what you want. As for nothing except wiring being between the source and the amp, don't forget that the miniDSP has an analog circuit connected to the output of the DAC chip. The design and build quality of that analog circuit has a BIG impact on the ultimate SQ from the system. That is one reason there is such disparity in sound quality between different DAC units.
  4. RTally

    DSP Crossovers

    An external DSP used as a crossover is going to be inserted between the preamp and the amps. It has to be done this way because there is a single input and at least two outputs from the DSP crossover. Putting the DSP crossover before the preamp means there will be multiple preamps that will have to be level matched every time the volume is adjusted. Unless your preamp has a digital output, the DSP will have to have an analog input. The only way I can imagine a digital input without needing multiple preamps is if you were using a PC as a preamp. But I cannot imagine using a PC as a preamp in a system that is biamped.
  5. RTally

    How to test crossover on Advent/1

    The only components in the Advent/1 crossover subject to age-related degradation are the capacitors. Since you are asking the question, you obviously do not have a capacitance tester. In that case, testing is not required. Replace the capacitors. Reassemble the speakers. Play music. If you hear music and it sounds good, then the crossovers are good. For the low cost of replacement capacitors and the little amount of time to replace them, testing is not cost efficient nor a good way to spend time. Electrolytic caps fail in two ways. They fail because the electrolytic in the capacitor dries out over time. The first failure mode is that capacitance value changes over time. The change in capacitance value will shift the crossover point. If a tweeter crossover point is shifted high enough, there will be a hole in the frequency response between the woofer and tweeter. If the crossover frequency shifts down, there will be a peak. Generally, the change in capacitance value is not sufficient to result in audible holes or peaks. The second failure mode is that the equivalent series resistance (ESR) will increase. The increase in ESR will attenuate the driver if the cap is in series with the driver. Tweeter attenuation, in severe cases, results in a muffled sound, much like someone placed a thick blanket over the speaker.
  6. RTally

    Advice on New Large Advent

    The OLA had fiberglass filling the cabinet. Sometime during the NLA era Advent went to open cell foam. I prefer fiberglass, as do many others. I would leave the foam instead of using polyfill. For the definitive source of Advent crossover information, check out Pete B's page at http://baselaudiolab.com/ADVENT_LA_XO.html The page does not specifically say that the inductor is an iron core, but the pictures shows it could be. I recently got rid of my NLA, so I cannot look. If you can get an equivalent inductor and you want to spend the money, do it.
  7. RTally

    Opinions on Double Advent Rebuild Please

    I had forgotten about that thread. I run multiple amps to my speakers, so I never parallel them purposely.
  8. RTally

    Opinions on Double Advent Rebuild Please

    Your receiver is set up with parallel connections if you have A and B both selected and then disconnect one set of speakers and the remaining set still plays. My OLAs are rated at 8 ohms (per the markings on the back). Two pair will result in a load of 4 ohms. Most receivers should be able to handle that at moderate volume levels.
  9. RTally

    Found beside four garbage containers

    I have a pair of Lowboys, too. But I had to pay for mine. Your picture shows the lattice cover in place. That heavy lattice grill blocks a lot of the high end. I recapped my Lowboys and they sound fantastic with the grills removed. I plan on making some cloth grills, but I am too busy listening to them.
  10. RTally

    Opinions on Double Advent Rebuild Please

    The A and B speaker outputs are typically wired in parallel. There are a few exceptions. You can easily tell because if only one pair of speakers are connected and both A and B are selected, there will be an open circuit and no sound. Since you have two receivers, I suggest powering each pair from different receivers. That is what I do. I have one receiver powering one pair and the other receiver powering the other. I connect the pre-amp out of my primary receiver to the aux input of the other receiver. This way I can control the volume for each pair to make sure that they are matched.
  11. RTally

    Dynaco A25 vsDynaco A25 XL loudspeakers

    A copy of your original review is available on The Wayback Machine. Like PeteB above, I use it a lot to read pages after they disappear from their original website. Your review is at https://web.archive.org/web/20140525020316/http://www.epinions.com/review/Dynaco_A_25XL_epi/content_554942697092
  12. RTally

    KLH SCx3 General Info

    Do a search on cleaning AR pots. Your pots look very similar. Spraying DeOxit is not enough. They have to be disassembled to clean the corrosion from the contact surfaces. The general procedure is to remove the spring clip holding the halves together. The metal part is soaked and then brushed to remove the corrosion. A bit time-consuming, but it restores the pots to functioning again.
  13. RTally

    How Long Have You Owned AR Speakers?

    How long have you owned AR speakers? About 26 hours. I just bought a pair of AR-2ax speakers from the son of the original purchaser. I think it is $80 well spent. They are the early version with the cloth surrounds. How do they sound? They sound terrible! After I clean up the pots and recap them, I will have a more informed impression, though. 😀
  14. RTally

    Bi-wiring a pair of AR-2Ax

    What you describe is bi-amping, not bi-wiring. Bi-wiring is when you run two sets of wires from the speaker to a single amp/receiver. With bi-amping you have one amp/receiver driving one set of drivers and a second amp/receiver driving the other set of drivers. It sounds like you have both the Fisher and the Marantz running at the same time using the passive crossover in the speakers. I assume you have the bass driver (terms 1 & 2) connected to one receiver with a pair of wires. Then you have a third wire connecting the tweeter (term T) to the plus speaker output of your other receiver. Because your receivers have a common ground and you are connecting them together by sharing the same input signal, your speakers work. But the negative speaker output from the receiver connected to the tweeter is flowing through something that does not normally see speaker power. The idea behind bi-amping (and bi-wiring) is to have the speaker current carried by independent wires between the amps/receivers and the speaker drivers. In your case, the tweeter receiver has the current for the tweeter common flowing through a non-traditional path. That non-traditional path may be the chassis ground connected by your power cords or it may be the shields of your interconnect that ties the two receivers together. Don't do that. Your tweeter amp/receiver needs to have two wires for each channel connected to the tweeter circuit. You should connect a pair of wires for each channel to the tweeter (terms 1 and T). PS: Wiring two amps/receivers to the AR this way will fry an amp/receiver that does not have a common ground. Fortunately for you, it worked out.