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Giorgio AR

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About Giorgio AR

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/29/1962

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  • Location
    Trieste, Italy
  • Interests
    HiFi, Acoustic Research speakers,old motorcycles and cars

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  1. On left original AS-2a masonite panel Perform all the holes in the same position and diameter New panel with writings and mounted pots Back side AS-2a with original masonite AS-2a back side with reconstructed masonite
  2. Hi Teknofossil, DonT long ago published on my request the AR3-st scheme, under the photos You find the thread by typing: original AR paperwork I have! I also used AR-1MS to make a medium / high section only to the AR2 woofer (I still have to attenuate the small AR-1MS with appropriate resistances!), Find the thread in the Mods section (moved there by moderator Genek!) Under the title: AR-2t I hope I've been helpful Giorgio
  3. Another great piece to understand AR mids, this paper explains in a simple way the evolution, the "universality", the versatility and the greatness of this wonderful instrument, and also because, to date, in the form of a replica more or less equal to the original keeps its charm intact.
  4. P.S: regarding the use of the Midwest midrange, here are the photos of a good use that has been made of this component, the photos have been taken from the auction site.
  5. Hi ra.ra, first of all, in this mid, there is only the presence of the double paper adhesive on the outside of the flange, then if you look at the dome of the mid, after removing the plastic horn, around you see a glue ring transparent often with the shape of the inner ring of the plastic horn that pressed over it impressing the shape: at that point the plastic horn was not glued, adhered only (I think it was left to harden the glue until a certain time to thicken the dome fabric and then later flattened by the addition of the platic horn to perfectly seal the two flanges. Secondly, I have a wife who works in a dental office and brings me the tools that are no longer in use (because they are old or no longer perfectly functional for the original work), so old spatulas, hooks and special pliers. The beauty of these instruments is the fact that they end up slightly rounded, so they do not scratch or engrave metal, plastic or anything else. I am attaching photos of some spatulas (these are also very useful for refoaming both to remove the foam from the cone, and to remove it from the metal basket), the instrument below (and in particular) is a small retractor and is phenomenal for: removing the speakers from the baffle, special ones those with sealant like gaskets without ruining anything, and to remove the glued grilles (using the longest side), paired with other spatulas to help! Giorgio
  6. Done! First I heated the mid at around 40 ° C, then with the dentist's instrument, a small atraumatic spatula, I raised and unglued the double-sided adhesive frame that unites the plastic horn to the mid flange (I think it is the same type used on the AR10 late tweeter and AR11 with the upper foam ring!). I also measured the thickness of the paper which is 0.2 mm. Total time for removal (except the additional 20 min. For heating the mid) about 2/3 minutes. Thank you ra.ra, and I hope this work is useful to the enthusiasts! AR. Here below the sequence and details
  7. Ra.ra, rereading yours first answer, apart from the classification, the reported differences between the various types of mids useful to clarify the correct use in the speakers that need to replace mid units, I have thought about your statement that RoyC has removed from one of these mid the plastic horn! I could have done the same and then replaced the two types of plastic horns, it's too late, but now I am going to remove this detail from my 200044 with the broken magnet. Then I will publish the photos of the removal works and the separate components. Thanks for the great input Giorgio
  8. Thanks IARrybody, splendid work, thanks for the report on the comparison of the listening between 2 speakers similar but not equal (before / after changes simultaneously). I really appreciate the use you have made of quality bipolar electrolytic capacitors (up to now I used expensive and large polyester), I am more and more convinced to use this type of capacitors myself! Since you've handled both AR3a and AR11 lately, I renew to you the request to listen to your renewed and improved AR58 with mids and tweeters both at -6db and another step at -3db, I ask you this because you have the chance to soften the range medium high and the reason why I want to make the same change to my AR58 is to be able to make them sound similar to AR3a (certainly not the same for many reasons, but I want to bring all my 12" speakers closer to the AR3a specifications). Thanks to your help, I can first know the result that I can get with your change.
  9. Really a good job, excellent excision and brilliant intuition to replace the crossover board from AR58 to AR91. This is something that I would like to do too with my AR58s in which I find the mid / high range too intrusive (although this was probably wanted by AR technicians to adapt the sound to the request and conform to other producers of the time) . I think that I will not replace the crossover boards, too difficult to find in Italy and too expensive to buy from the USA (burdened by production, customs and taxes!), But as soon as I find two pairs of three-way switches appropriate, there will be on original crossover the only addition of switches and resistors. IARrybody I ask you if after a break-in period you can make a report with listening to the switches: -6 db mid, -6db tw and also -6 db mid and -3 db tw. Also if you can compare these 2 types of adjustments with AR3a pair with the settings of the pots as per the AR specifications (3.25 ohm mid. - 1.75 ohm tw.), In my opinion your AR58 improved should approach in the overall performance at "old" sisters! I hope for one of your reports that I would like very much and I think it is also useful for many other enthusiasts who want to make AR58 more flexible. Last thing, you said you put the TNG woofers to rest, the last picture seems to show a TNG woofer on the left and an AR woofer on the right: is the photo before the change? Giorgio
  10. Perfect Lance, I think the midwoofer no longer needs anything, just to work with his brothers and give you the sound that only AR9 can emit without any distortion! Good listening Giorgio
  11. Hi Lance, congratulations for your AR9, they will give you great satisfactions and it seems right that besides replacing the capacitors of the crossovers (check if you can also all the other resiatenze values, coils and switches), also restores the 4 woofers and the two midwoofers. Regarding the wire lead flexibile, in the last photo it seems to see that the welding is not flat and similar to that of the negative contact, perhaps it was an intervention performed by the previous owner or a technician (when you found the dustcap partially detached, probably you could have raised or detached it further to see if there was any repair on the top of the cone where the wires run!). What you did: releasing the natural oscillation of the cone is right and if you have solved the problem as you reported, I think you should no longer intervene (just check that the wire braid is intact). Regarding the foam, finding the original is no longer possible and I am sure that on CSP you will find many tips on the most suitable surround foam, furthermore due to the fact that this woofer is used in AR9 as a midwoofer, I think that even if the one currently in use does not were the most correct, this does not significantly affect the sound of the speaker correctly; however here there are several experts and happy owners of AR9 who will be able to help you! I wish you good listening Giorgio
  12. Jeff, your instructions are like the AR3a-IMPROVED, in the sense that it improves and increases the information, in fact it suggests to first drill the wall horizontally and then continue to insert the nail diagonally, thank you for giving me additional information! Giorgio
  13. Finally purchased and arrived today at my house a kit of Wall mounting AR-7 speaker system. It consists of an instruction sheet and a small envelope containing 4 brackets to be fixed to the back of the speakers, 4 bracket fixing screws (and I think then added the 4 brackets and wall nails on which to hook the speakers). The instruction sheet, compared to what I have already seen previously published on CSP, specific to AR4x, is updated for use with AR-4xa, AR-6 and AR-7 systems, as written on the Note and I think this is the only difference compared to previous kits. Below the photos on the instruction sheet, as well as the brackets, the screws and the small envelope containing the hardware. Thanks to this desired kit, I will finally be able to place a couple of my AR7s on the wall using the original material supplied by mom Acoustic Research !! Giorgio Instructions Hardware As last, another sheet of: power handling ability and power fusing information
  14. I think it can be a black paint on the masonite
  15. Hi Budney agree that the mids are not proper to the AR3a improved, but they should be (and the photo you have attached with the visible midrange magnet that also has the label indicating the No. 200010-1 near the positive pole) indicates a component made in the USA, probably born for AR10 or AR11 "second series" with silver screen. This mid is not Tonegen. The correct tweeters should be the ones you see in the picture below, just photographed to show them to you! In addition I also send you the photo, always performed now of a mid Tonegen of my AR10PI Replica and finally 3 medium my: 2 front wired, a wired back of AR3a imp / AR3a / AR10 / AR11 (clearly the only mid back wired is for AR10 / 11, but it is also on AR3a / AR3a imp !!)
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