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  1. Thanks, Kent. Those pictures are just what I needed to visualize the job. Looking forward to the weekend and getting to work on this...
  2. Kent and Glenn, Thanks for the guidance! To make sure I understand everything... I let the Zpoxy sit in the gap for 15-20 minutes before clamping, right. I'm not sure I follow the part about the folded wax paper... after clamping, I press that along the joint to bring the edges together? Why wax paper? Thanks again Robert
  3. Recently, I've found repairing, restoring and most of all listening to vintage AR and KLH speakers to be a very addictive hobby. 😀 Anyways, a couple days ago, I was lucky enough to come across a pair of AR-4x for little more than lunch money. All drivers are original and working, the grills are in great condition. The cabinets for the most part are in pretty good condition too, except for one big issue: the diagonal cabinet joints where the side boards connect to the top have started to split or come apart at the edges so that there is now a gap of about 1mm on one joint and about 0.5mm on the other. They seem to have been stored in a basement or garage for many years, stacked upside down so that the top of the speaker in question was sitting on the ground soaking up moisture all that time. Since it's the top of the speaker, it's pretty unsightly. Has anyone encountered a situation like this? Any thoughts on how to address this issue? My first idea was to use some kind of wood filler in the gap...
  4. Thanks for checking my math. 😂 It was a typo... I ordered a 3.3 and a 2.7 to run in parallel. Thanks... I checked and they are #9 coils. It's interesting that these might be special order exports from 1972. At least there's a really good hypothesis for why the serial numbers don't match the vintage of the components. I'm gonna work on those pots today. Hopefully I can get them cleaned up and get rid of those L-pads.
  5. Pics? Sure... These popped up my local CL for a (very) small fraction of what they're normally listed for on eBay. There weren't any pictures of the drivers on the listing but they were only 10 minutes away so I called the guy and made an appointment to see them right away. Well, first I studied all the driver pictures in the restoration guide. Lesson learned from my AR-4x experience, I guess. ☹️Anyway, the asking price was low enough that if they looked original, I'd scoop them up even if there were "issues". The drivers looked original, as far as I could tell the woofers are either the A.2 or A.3, as listed in the guide, the mid looks like the A.12 and the tweeter like the A.19. Do I have that right? They all seem to work and sound good. When I opened them up at home, the date marked on the back of the woofer is from Feb or March of 1972. The serial numbers have me a bit perplexed... The sheets taped to the back of the cabinet indicate 7055 and 7057. That seems low for 1972... The guy I bought them from was a little bit of a tinkerer. He re-foamed the woofers and replaced the pots with L-Pads. Luckily, he saved the original pots and still had them. I asked him if he'd ever heard of this site and if he'd seen the restoration guide...no. He put in 16 Ohm L-Pads, which are not correct, I gather. I'm gonna see what I can do to clean up the original pots this weekend. They're not too much worse than the ones that were in my 4x's and those cleaned up pretty nicely. If I can get them to work, I'd like to use them. Otherwise, I guess I would get some 8 Ohm L-Pads and 25 Ohm resistors, as recommended in the restoration guide. For the caps, I bought Solen polys for the 8 and the 50 and an NPE for the 150, all on sale at Parts Connexion. The existing caps might well test within spec when I pull them out... I just figure as long as I have them open, I'll take care of everything at once...
  6. Thanks, Roy. That was the declarative sentence my wallet was hoping for. 😉
  7. I really opened up a can of worms, didn't I? Thanks everyone... lot's to think about.
  8. I came upon a pair of AR-3a's in need of some TLC at a price I couldn't resist. I'm following the restoration guide closely and am in the process of trying to clean up the pots, which are quite corroded. As long as I have them open, I figure I'll replace the crossover capacitors as well. I see that each speaker would take a 150uF, 50uF and 6uF capacitor. Looking at metalized polypropylene crossover capacitors at Parts Express, first off, they don't carry a 150uF. I guess I could wire a 100 and a 50 in parallel, or even three 50s... but when I add up the costs, it's around $65 per speaker. (That's four 50's @ $15/each + $5 for a 6.2u). Yikes. NPE's would only cost about $5 per speaker. I've read that the polypropylenes will last longer. Outside of that, is there any other justification for the added expense? Would they sound noticeably better? I'm strongly leaning toward the NPEs... is there any reason I would regret going the el cheapo route later... in, say, the next 20 years?
  9. Hi Harley 7991, I had those or very similar tweeters in my pair of AR-4x's and decided to restore them to original, as documented here: It took quite a while to find original tweeters on the big auction site and they were more expensive than the ones you linked to. For a while I had one speaker original and one with a modern replacement tweeter and there was no question... the original sounded better. The replacement worked and it fit in the cabinet... but I could really hear the difference.
  10. Finally scored a second tweeter! It's installed and my AR-4x's are complete and restored to original. They sound great too!!! Thanks again to everyone here for all the help!
  11. Just a quick update on this project. I'm proceeding with trying to restore this speakers with original parts based on the "normal" crossover wit the AR#5 coil. I have the coils, two woofers and one tweeter... still need to find one more tweeter somewhere. While I'm waiting for one to turn up, I thought I would build these using the parts that I have now. It might be cool actually to compare a "real" AR-4x tweeter side by side against the modern replacement phenolic ring tweeter, no?. So, I cleaned the pots, built the crossovers with the #5 coils and sealed up the cabinets following the instructions in the potentiometer restoration guide on AK. Both speakers are up an running now. Guess what? Yeah... the AR tweeter sounds a lot better. There's really a clear difference in clarity and precision. The replacements are noticeably louder, but that's not necessarily a virtue. I guess they'll do in a pinch. They're not awful but...now that I've heard the real thing there's no going back!
  12. I attached them to a better amp, played around with the positioning and the bass actually sounds a lot fuller now. Kenwood KA-4006 -> Marantz 140. Still, it stands to reason that after 60 years or so, a reseal would make an improvement. Not something I'm gonna worry about anytime soon though. They sound pretty great as is, so why mess with it.
  13. Just curious for now but... cutting the grill fabric off and applying the Vintage_AR sealant sounds straight forward. How would one go about putting grill fabric back on? I think I read somewhere that for this model the original grill fabric were stapled around the back of the front baffle.
  14. I've been listening to these Model Sevens for a couple of days now and enjoying the hell out of them. I probably don't have the audiophile vocabulary to accurately describe what I'm hearing but I'll give it a try... The first thing I notice listening to these is a remarkably warm and precise mid range that really brings piano, acoustic guitar and the female voice to life. They have great presence, if that makes sense, and they really shine on small combo jazz and acoustic rock or folk. Bill Evans, Paul Bley, Miles' trumpet, Ella Fitzgerald's voice... stunning. Also Neil Young, Bob Dylan, Nick Drake. Great clarity with acoustic bass. By comparison, my Ohm Model Ls sound more distant. Their sound stage is wider but seems less focused. But the low end does go lower on the Ohms and there is more boom there. Moving to harder rock and higher volumes, the Ohms start to show their muscle. In fairness, I was wary of cranking up the Model Sevens and didn't push them like I do the Ohms. But it doesn't take much for those Ohms to get the windows rattling, something the Sevens don't do. I wonder if my 60 year old KLHs need the woofers sealed. Probably so but that seems like a big project I'm happy to avoid for now, if it's even possible to get to woofers at all for that. Overall, they sound terrific and fit perfectly in my office, where I typically listen to jazz at moderate or lower volumes. I'm happy to have brought these beauties back to life... and they look pretty cool, I think, with AR-4x's perched on top. (...now to get those back up and running...)
  15. Ok... the caps arrived and the rest of the restoration was quite easy and exactly as described here. I installed Solen 12uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitors in each cabinet today, sealed the metal plate on the back of the cabinets with duct seal and all of the tweeters sprung back to life. Bravo. Thanks to everyone here for all the generous advice, without which I would have been truly lost. I'm going to pop open a bottle of wine now and sit down to a long listen. They're sitting next to a pair of Ohm Model L's, so that will be an interesting A/B comparison. I'll report back on the results.
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