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David Cutter

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About David Cutter

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  • Location
    St. Augustine, Florida
  • Interests
    2018 Mac mini>Tidal>Audioquest Dragonfly DAC> Marantz 2270>AR 2ax, Dynaco A25, PSB Century 800i.

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  1. I just received a message back from the seller. "I covered them with contact paper to match my wall unit. One of them has the woofer replaced with a similar one. There’s no problem with it performance." She's asking $630!
  2. Just saw these for sale (not cheap) with no details...Just a couple of pics. Are they salvageable? Comments?
  3. OK...Mostly done. Did the grilles this afternoon. The fabric was a bit pricey so I was extra careful not to screw it up. Added pull tabs to bottoms in order to facilitate easier grill removal. I will probably make brown tabs in the future...Very happy.
  4. I'm not really that interested in these speakers...I just thought they were misidentified as 2ax's. I am keeping my eyes open for a some 3's or 3a's at a reasonable price that need some work. Currently there are a pair of original condition 3's for $2899 (!) on CL, as well as some 9LS's for $750. I am happy with my newly refurbished 2ax and am enjoying their 'vintage' sound. Thanks for all of the suggestions.
  5. These are currently on eBay for $489.00. They look owner-modified to me, but seller says they are "All original" in the description. Any knowledge of such a variant on this model? Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/183822223530?ul_noapp=true
  6. Found some Wharfedale W45 on CL for $30.00, a 90 min drive from my house. Seller's post says one mid driver is not working. Pics look good. Are they worth the effort?
  7. Excellent solutions!...I read that someone painted the grill frame black to hide the cutouts. Magnets sound better than Velcro. Thanks.
  8. Well...This morning I finished/tidied up the crossover business on both boxes. Experienced some frustration screwing in the woofer bolts as a total of three T-nuts decided to pop out whilst inserting the bolts. Had to glue them in and wait. They sound great...Very happy. My first time trying something like this. Couldn't have done it as well without the helpful people here. Next step is changing the dirty, discolored grill cloth. I've seen suggestions for replacement material that I will explore. I'm considering adding a pull tab to the grills to make removing them easier. Has anyone tried this?
  9. Interesting...I have some old speaker grill fabric. Do you think that would work?
  10. Many thanks JKent and Aadams for your advice on this project. The electrical tape is working ok, holding the wires together and I'll leave it alone for now. I read in another thread on this forum that a single strand of copper speaker wire can be used to patch the connection. I will look into it. I completed the 2nd speaker in a fraction of the time that it took the 1st one. I made some better decisions the second time around that I feel I should duplicate on the first. So I will go back in and redo a few things with the wiring. The most noticeable thing I did was remove the blue plastic insulators. See photo. I'm very pleased with how they sound and notice that their tone is much brighter now with the new caps and pots. Is the midrange or tweeter that sounds a bit shrill? I have to adjust the working pots now... Question: What should I use as a replacement for the flimsy thin fabric that goes behind the woofer, that is supposed to keep the insulation away from the cone?
  11. Thanks for that advice...Now where can I get a silver-plated butt connector for 24 gauge wire??? I've been looking without luck. This will be a very delicate/challenging operation. The wire is as thin and wispy as cotton thread and not easy to manipulate with middle-aged men's fingers and eyesight. I've got a small piece of electrical tape temporally holding them together for now and the tweeter is working.
  12. I just discovered the problem...Somehow the thin wire that runs up the front is disconnected. Did not notice until I checked it with my finger and adjusted my lighting angle. Solution???
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