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About zelgy1

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    Sioux Falls, SD
  1. I greatly appreciate the informative feedback!
  2. The cabinets have the exact same dimensions.
  3. Hi all, I purchased a pair of AR-3's and their is a gap in the serial numbers. I noticed that one unit has the plastic grill that slides into the grooves within the cabinet. However, the 2nd unit has a particle board type grill material and the speaker cabinet lacks the groove found on the other. I'm wondering if the AR factory ever utilized the AR-3a cabinet for AR-3 builds at any point? The speakers and crossovers all seem to match, only the enclosure being different. I look forward to any feedback.
  4. Hi all! I just completed my rework of a pair of AR-3 speakers and thought I would share my findings. The AR-3a Restoration Guide was used as my primary resource. The drivers are all original and I used L-pads and new electrolytic capacitors (I'm Dutch) sourced from Parts Express. I'm finding the speakers seem to lack the sound stage that I was expecting. Seems to be very bassy and lack of highs. Just doesn't seem to be that crisp, clear sound I was expecting. I recently restored a pair of AR-5 and the sound is far improved over the AR-3, which I was not expecting. The receiver being used for testing is a Scott 380R. It should be noted that one of the mids in the AR-3's doesn't have the same output as the other, so I'm attributing that to the age and may be in need of repair. Before I start digging into the units, I'm curious if the cheaper capacitors could be the issue? I'm confident I have the wiring correct, but I'd appreciate a look over from the professionals on this site. I'm simply looking for feedback as to what could be the reason for the lack of performance, but certainly understand it may be difficult based on the info provided. Let me know if I can provide additional details. As always, I greatly appreciate the responses!
  5. Update! May have gotten ahead of myself. After testing the 3 “clean” units, only 1 has correct readings. That being said, I’m going to opt for all new L-pads + resistor to replace the original rheostats......unless I’m swayed in a different direction.
  6. Hi all! On to my next project, AR3 restoration. I’ve been using the AR-3a Restoration Guide, which has been very helpful. I’ve got myself into a predicament. As I was cleaning one of the rheostats, my brush caught the coil and ripped it out. Like the others, this particular unit didn’t seem to have the hardened material that keeps the coil in place. The other 3 units are clean and usable. So, do I purchase a single, new L-pad w/ resistor noted in the guide or do I try to find a replacement rheostat. Or maybe I replace all of them with L-pad and resistor. I want to ensure both speakers match as best I can. Input appreciated! I’ve attached a pic of the damaged unit to show others what NOT to do. Without the hardened material to hold in place, I don’t think it could be saved anyway.
  7. Great insight from all of you and very much appreciated! RoyC, there was a small, square piece of fiberglass between the woofer and Kempac in both units. I shall give an update once project is complete. BTW, Howard’s Restor-a-Finish is a magical product. The enclosures look as good as new!
  8. Just to clarify, there was no foam. Mistype on my part. They have pieced fiberglass. I weighed the fiberglass, including Kimpac, and it’s 2.05 lbs./32.8 oz. My plan will be to fill both with half original pieces fiberglass and half batting to equal the 32.8 oz.
  9. Doh! I meant pieced fiberglass insulation, not foam.
  10. Hi all! I greatly appreciate the feedback! The Kimpac was in both speakers, so I'm good there. For those missing the Kimpac, the hospital caps are a great idea. Food for thought! Rather than having one unit with batting, my plan is this: weigh the "unmolested" speaker insulation, remove the original insulation from the top half and replace with batting. That way both speakers have the same weight and insulation material, original pieced foam in bottom behind woofer and batting in the top behind the tweeter and mid. I'm afraid having one with batting and one filled with the original insulation may render audible differences. I may be overthinking, but would like your thoughts.
  11. Hi all! I am currently restoring a pair of AR-5 speakers and would like to thank all of you for the information you have shared on this site. I have a question regarding the insulation within the units I acquired. Please note the speakers are within 2 serial numbers of each other and date stamp on one woofer is April 4th, 1973. I suspect this speaker is completely original. The other speaker appears to have a replacement woofer with a PN 200004-2, which from my research should be ok. My primary question has to do with the insulation. The one I suspect is original was completely filled with the pieced fiberglass insulation. The unit with the replacement woofer only had insulation behind the woofer and covering the crossover with nothing behind the tweeter and mid-range. Is it possible the unit with replacement woofer requires less insulation or did the individual replacing the woofer skimp on the amount of insulation? I was thinking about adding, in both speakers, fiberglass insulation batting acquired from local department store behind the tweeter/mid-range and the original batting behind the woofers. I would appreciate your thoughts on what I should do for insulation. Thanks in advance!
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