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Found 37 results

  1. Edgar Villchur: American Inventor, Educator and Writer Miriam Villchur Berg, daughter of the late Edgar Villchur, has assembled two excellent historical websites about her famous dad: edgarvillchur.com and her blog, villchurblog.com. There is a great deal of wonderful Villchur information in these websites, correcting many historical inaccuracies in the Wikipedia website (which I am going to correct soon). Aside from Roy Allison's excellent article, "A Glorious Time," the "best" article is my little tribute to Edgar Villchur: http://edgarvillchur.com/a-tribute/ —Tom Tyson
  2. Hi all, I'm looking at some AR11s (1st version with the brass badge). Both woofers, 1 tweet and 1 mid-range have pushed-in dustcaps (see pics). The woofers can probably be fixed with the bent needle or other tricks. I'm more nervous about the tweet and the mid-range. Dang, how did the mid-range get pushed in? Anyways, I'd love any thoughts! Best, Doug
  3. There's an ongoing thread on another forum discussing woofer surrounds. Someone stated that AR considered foam surrounds to be superior to cloth surrounds. I don't recall that statement being made anywhere by anyone from AR. But, there are certainly more knowledgeable folks here than I. I have personally always preferred the sound of cloth surround AR woofers over foam. der
  4. This seems to be a dumb question but one I have to ask the resident experts. While I've searched the web I've not come up with a convincing answer. On AR speakers, AR3, AR3a, etc. (the original line) which speaker terminals are which? Is terminal 1 negative or positive? I long ago lost any literature that came with my speakers. I believe that number 1 is negative and 2 is positive. I also believe I had them reversed for a long time. der
  5. Hello all. Haven't had much time lately. Here in Southern New Hampshire we have had unrelenting snow and cold for the past month! I sell snow blowers for a job and it has been a very busy time. I have not had much time to myself for audio stuff, but today I finally had some. Sometime ago I acquired yet another set of 2ax speakers in reasonable overall minty shape. Serials 168724 label intact and the other the label was strategically ripped and the stamp number is gone. The set is very similar, same drivers etc. so I think it is safe to assume 168??? or something close. I start taking the drivers out to access the xo, and yes the surrounds need to be replaced. I have not done too many refoams but enough to be comfortable with it. A couple of observations while cleaning up the old foams. There was a distinct soft and almost moist feel to the broken down foam. Others I have done seemed more dry and crusty sort of. Maybe I am losing my mind. All I know is the more i do this the more interesting it becomes. I have three different sets of 2ax and they are all distinctly different. Three different styles of tweeters, one the drivers are flush mounted on the baffle, the other two are recessed and on and on. Here is an enhanced pic of the backside of the mid, what does this tell us? and might as well throw in a pic of the tweeter which I am going to leave in place for now. I will isolate it and test it to be sure it is worthy. The less I fuss with that wire the better! So back to the woofer. After cleaning it up there is still a notable ridge of glue around the whole cone. Should I worry about this before refoaming commences? I have heard using acetone to carefully remove old glue, but a smidge concerned about the perceived "moist" feel of the cones edge. Thoughts? A two dimensional pic doesn't really give you depth but again it is a raised ridge of glue about 1/4" in on the cone. So as I ponder these things, I figured I would cut out the old dust cap and start preparing for foam! Then I saw this... which doesn't look good to me. Also, I have no background with this. Is this fatal? Can this be fixed? Can I fix it? Don't really even know what I am looking at but the amount of wire that is showing doesn't look like it would fit back in where it came from! Geoff
  6. A couple of months ego I got a pair of AR-16 loudspeakers,made in Sydney Australia under license from AR. They were in a very bad condition,foam surround on both woofers completely gone,cabinet veneer cracked & separated at the seems ,very neglected & unloved. I tried Google for some info. but there wasn't much there.I turned to the classic speaker pages & got some positive & some negative comments .But on the whole not much discussions. To cut a long story short, I managed ( I believe) to bring those speakers back to their original (new condition) with the help of some knowledgeable speaker builder.(New Mundorf bipolar caps of same value as the originals + Mox resistors ).The foam surrounds were professionally done at some expense & the cabinets were refurbished beautifully with Howard restore-a-finish & feed wax something... When I removed the woofers to have them re-foamed,I was surprised & pleased to see a substantial crossover with at least 7 or 8 components of reasonable quality & also noticed black writing on the X'over that says (AR-16 mk2).I did not know that they made mk1 & mk2 ar-16! Anyhow,how did they sound after all this work you may ask. Driven by a fully refurbished stock Dynaco st.70 valve power amp.+ luxman cl32 valve pre-amp.+ Cambridge audio azure 740c cd player,the sound is neutral, pleasant and maybe accurate albeit a touch light on the bass. Pushing the speakers against the wall seems to generate a bit more bass.( Also, tweeter roll off position selected at the back). The thing that I don't understand is why so much fuss about the AR 4x when the AR-16 sounds (to my ears at least) so much better! Clearer,more extended treble , excellent mid-range & useful bass,in general more focus & more details. No muddy bass & muted highs that I used to get from the very popular ar4x. Although the 4x has a nicer cabinet! I must say I'm beginning to appreciate & like the sound those (unloved & underrated) loudspeakers make. I would like to hear the views of members who used the AR -16 at some stage. before after
  7. My modest collection, as well as most classic AR speakers I have ever encountered, are clad in real walnut veneer, which was sold as "oiled walnut" (for my 4x's and 2ax's). I know that toward the end of production of this series, when manufacturing was moved out of Cambridge to Norwood, several of the models (notably AR-6, AR-7 and AR-8, I believe) were offered with a simulated walnut vinyl cladding. Also, I think I read somewhere on CSP that some speakers during this period may have had a cladding that was indeed real wood with a walnut appearance, but was, in fact, not real walnut veneer. Methinks I read that it may have actually been birch veneer with a walnut stain that almost convincingly recreated the beloved oiled walnut appearance. My question is this: when a speaker from this era has a tag that states "walnut grained", is it actually clad in wood veneer made to appear as if it is walnut, or is this an unfortunate moniker for the vinyl downgrade?
  8. I've been doing a bit more scanning of the documents I have. I scanned the AR warranty document and the approved independent service contractors, both from November 1978. They are too large to post in this message, so you can find them on my server: http://archive.mgm51.com/library/AcousticResearch/
  9. This is a four-page brouchure that describes how to fuse all the various AR speaker systems up to and including (but not beyond) the AR-LST. You can find it here: http://archive.mgm51.com/library/AcousticResearch/
  10. Attached are the two sides of the registration/survey postcard that was included with my AR9 speakers. I have this card because one card was included with each speaker, and I sent in one card with the two serial numbers.
  11. I have a pair of AR 18 and AR 28s speakers for sales. Both speakers need re-foamed woofers. Items are located in Winchester MA. $40 each pair.
  12. I bought a pair of AR-4x speakers that had a newer tweeter in one cabinet, and corroded pots on both, so I decided to rework the pair. I utilized new phenolic ring tweeters - 8 Ohm (http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=270-252), new solen 20uF 400V polypropylene capacitors (http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=027-582) and new L-Pad attenuators - 15W Mono 3/8" Shaft 8 Ohm (http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=260-248) in place of the corroded pots. While the high end is now very well defined, I'm missing the bass that made the speaker sound so full and smooth before I started working on it - overall the sound is very thin. Did the pots contain some sort of resistor that I'm not taking into account with the new L-Pads? Am I missing something, or should I fix the pots and use them instead? As an aside, thanks to all the contributors to this site who make this learning experience so much fun, this will not be the only time I open up 40 year+ old speakers, next up are some KLH 17's! Phil
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