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Found 26 results

  1. >I also recall having read the same detailed information from Stereophile, and I assume its correctness against what appears to be a sort of revisionist article containing conflated timelines, unattributed premises and boot-strapped conclusions. >I've been wishing & hoping for Tom Tyson's definitive AR history for years...would a GoFundMe effort be in vain? —ar_pro Book: The History of Acoustic Research Any and all suggestions and ideas here would be greatly appreciated! Any thoughts about what you would like to see would be great as well. To do a complete history would be difficult, but a history of the "Classic Period," from 1954-1974 (or 1980 perhaps) in one part and the Teledyne/International Jensen/Recoton/Voxx period in another part or in a revised edition. The most important part of AR history is the first 25 years or so. Anyway, please reply with your thoughts and ideas, for example: The best title for such a book? The period covered with this book; part of all? The amount of detail to be included in this book? The size of this book, a small book with 150 pp or so, or comprehensive with perhaps 300 pp? The other questions you might have. There are also many people here on this website with detailed knowledge of specific aspects of AR history and technology. Therefore, give me ideas about how you would like to see such a book. —Tom Tyson 06Jun2017
  2. A 100 mile drive (each way) made me the proud owner of a pair of AR9's and 10pi speakers. The 10pi are almost perfect. Just a small back corner chip on the top of one and dirty and thirsty for oil. They should clean up nice. The drivers in the 9's are all good. One speaker has lifting of the veneer on the side/bottom. The MDF has swelled some. These too need a good cleaning. The side grilles are original and all but one has a small hole in the fabric. The front grilles have been replaced and need to be stretched better. Its odd but these have the plastic pegs reversed - mounted to the cabinet and plug into the grilles. Also, I have a few broken ones. A few small nicks here and there but not significant. They are beasts and my back will attest to that. Having trouble uploading the full pic of the 9's
  3. I bought a pair AR9s new when I worked at Teledyne MEC in 1980. I really enjoyed listening to them over the past several decades but, unfortunately for me, I've developed severe tinnitus from years of motorcycling and various acoustic traumas and I can no longer listen to music (or ride). It is quite heartbreaking. So these awesome speakers have sat unused for the past 4 years and I know I need to part with them, I'm just unsure how to go about it and I thought this forum would be the best place to start. I don't know how to determine their worth. Although I can't hear it do to high-frequency hearing loss, my wife belives one of the speakers has developed a high-frequency hiss. Let me know if you guys need more info. I appreciate your help. I'm in the SF bay area.
  4. Several months ago I was fortunate enough to acquire a pair of AR 9 Speakers in excellent condition with the exception of surrounds. These were a one owner speaker, came with the original boxes, original sales receipt and two sets of manuals and all the brochures. I have had the surrounds professionally replaced and all speakers tested. The cabinets are close to new showroom condition. So I have read a lot about the crossovers, both on this site and talked to many local audio pro's about wanting to replace the capacitors and the one resistor in the upper mid range circuit. It seems a lot of discussion about capacitor brands and types, changes in sound and so on. Solen capacitors make things brighter, others debating electrolytic versus PMPC. So not a pro at audio and just like to indulge and enjoy. Although some background in electronics and a passion for audio, I need some help with this one. My question is I don't have a problem with a bit brighter or more open, my goal though is to just replace capacitors and bring the AR 9 speakers and components back to factory specification, and if there is a added bonus using newer components that handle things better better that is great. So I guess I am looking for some advice for capacitor replacements. Upper & Lower Mids and Tweeter. 4 uF PMPC x 2 6 uF PMPC x 2 8 uF PMPC x 2 24 uF Electro x 2 30 uF Electro x 2 40 uF Electro x 2 80 Uf Electro x 2 Thank in advance to anyone who can start to point me in the right direction or even a complete parts list, brands, values and were to purchase. I have heard I can spend a few bucks, a few hundred or the skies the limit. I will post some pictures as soon as I figure if I can upload pictures here. Brian
  5. Maybe you guys can help me make sure I get this right. Shouldn't be difficult but there may be some things you might offer up as I go here. As you may recall from my AR9 thread, while the 4 woofers all worked, they had been refoamed along the way. Rather oddly as can be seen in the photos. Almost like they put them on upside down just to get them to fit. Must have not had the correct surrounds. I removed the old surrounds on 2 of the drivers last night. Came off fine, but I will scratch at the edges a little more maybe. I like to use a dull exacto blade to help as I go. Since these were replacements they weren't as deteriorated as we often see when removing old foams. Plus it's the 2nd coat of glue. Otherwise these cones are pretty tough and I really wasn't worried about them as I went. I dont think I want to use rubbing alcohol pr acetone on the cone edges unless you guys think I can. They are pretty smooth now. You will also see the staining on the cone of the one as well as the associated surface corrosion on the frame that I will have to clean up. Would still like some ideas on how to clean the cones if possible. The woofers on the AR9's are of course down low on the sides of the cabinet and these no longer had the grilles so were exposed to lord knows what. Could even be cat urine although no smell. Now I also am wondering about the cardboard ring that is attached to each frame. I assume those are not supposed to be there? Something the previous effort added to make those other foams fit. Both rick Cobb and Tom at myaudioaddiction have the correct surrounds for these and both suggest using the test tone for centering so you don't have to get into the dust cap and coil. I have had nothing but great results with that in my other refoams. Btw, these all tested good at 2.8- 3.0 ohm
  6. I've just uploaded some AR speaker reviews from High Fidelity magazine to my server. You can access them here: https://archive.mgm51.com/library/AcousticResearch/
  7. yes, they already sold for less than $200... https://denver.craigslist.org/ele/d/yamaha-surround-sound/6556688430.html But you can still get the surround sound system for $65
  8. Being big on spare parts I've been acquiring spare drivers for my AR90's. I've been successful with all drivers except the LMR p/n 200027-0. They seem to get swiped up quickly on eBay. I've parted out (3) AR94 speakers. The full range/mid drivers are the ones that came in the AR9LS p/n 2100450B. The woofers used p/n 2100370 and look more like the 200027-0 LMR. Can I assume these 8 inch drivers are all pretty much the same? Which would be the better replacement to use (should I ever need to)?
  9. One would think that after 38 years of living with and listening to a set of speakers that being surprised would not be on the menu. But, I have to say, Wow, just Wow. This evening I've been listening to some acoustic rock on the AR9's I bought back in March 1979. The solid imaging and the presence of the vocals still causes me to sit up and pay attention. No, let me change that..... Wow, just friggin' Wow.
  10. Several months ago I was fortunate enough to acquire a pair of AR 9 Speakers in excellent condition with the exception of surrounds. These were a one owner speaker, came with the original boxes, original sales receipt and two sets of manuals and all the brochures. I have had the surrounds professionally replaced and all speakers tested. The cabinets are close to new showroom condition. So I have read a lot about the crossovers, both on this site and talked to many local audio pro's about wanting to replace the capacitors and the one resistor in the upper mid range circuit. It seems a lot of discussion about capacitor brands and types, changes in sound and so on. Solen capacitors make things brighter, others debating electrolytic versus PMPC. So not a pro at audio and just like to indulge and enjoy. Although some background in electronics and a passion for audio, I need some help with this one. My question is I don't have a problem with a bit brighter or more open, my goal though is to just replace capacitors and bring the AR 9 speakers and components back to factory specification, and if there is a added bonus using newer components that handle things better better that is great. So I guess I am looking for some advice for capacitor replacements. Upper & Lower Mids and Tweeter. 4 uF PMPC x 2 6 uF PMPC x 2 8 uF PMPC x 2 24 uF Electro x 2 30 uF Electro x 2 40 uF Electro x 2 80 Uf Electro x 2 Thank in advance to anyone who can start to point me in the right direction or even a complete parts list, brands, values and were to purchase. I have heard I can spend a few bucks, a few hundred or the skies the limit. I will post some pictures as soon as I figure if I can upload pictures here. Brian
  11. I say casually looking since my speakers are playing very well, just that there are cosmetic issues from a previous reform attempt, and would like to eventually replace the woofers. Anyone have a pair or one for sale? Needing foam or not is no issue. I also have a nice AR9 style woofer I can trade for an AR3a woofer. Thanks!
  12. Sometime back I brought up the topic of modifying the AR-9 bass crossover network. Many thanks to Roy C for his comments and insight in this area. For those of you not familiar with this topic I have included the bass crossover schematic attachment My original question was based on speculation about what were the sonic effects of cutting loose the coil/cap that form a variable attenuation for this crossover. Holl noted in his design notes that these additional components contributed two aspects to the crossover function: 1) the combination of cap/coil added resistance at all frequencies higher than resonance thereby protecting the generally less than robust amplifiers of that era ('79 to '81) and 2) the extra R (as realized by these two components tended to "linearize" the bass performance in the general area of 30 Hz to 100 Hz (mid/upper bass). Note carefully that this cap is the infamous 2500 uF, about the size of a 16 ounce beer can, that so many people hate to replace (expensive, et cetera). I pondered the schematic for a considerable time and I could understand the basis of Holl's thinking. Amps of that era did not deal well with low impedances - and those two woofers in parallel formed an impedance that dipped as low as 2.5 ohms (back breakers to most receiver style amps). In addition the extra R would tend to keep a "mid/upper" bass rise in response from forming. My own analysis indicated that in THIS era of robust amps the extra impedance was NOT needed - my amps (Odyssey Audio Khartago Mono Blocs) are stable with a two ohm load - and those are not extremely expensive amplifiers. In addition the extra R contributed by these two components would tend to raise the Q of the circuit - thus making the bass above resonance more "wooly" and less precise. But I couldn't be sure. So I cut the darn things - right at the red mark in the drawing. Quick clip of the diagonal cutters and viola - the parts were out of circuit. I did however leave the parts inside the cabinet. (next time I go in there the entire crossover is "coming out" to be installed in an external box). So how does the resultant speaker sound? Pretty darn good - I will have an F/R plot for review sometime next week (friend has to come over and measure) but my subjective appraisal goes along these lines; All the bass has become "tighter" and is obviously being generated by a lower Q system - there was no "boom" before but now the bass is supple, tight and detailed. The bass in the region of 35 Hz to about 80 Hz has evidenced a significant increase in perceived volume - rather startling actually. Again the increase in perceived volume is not an increase in boom - but instead a lot more of a "tight" and agile bass response. If I am hearing - without any loss of quantity a higher quality bass, i.e. tighter and more focused (in the 80 to 160 range) then in truth the quantitative response (volume) HAS increased - boomy, high Q bass is typically perceived as louder - my bass is now lower Q but has maintained the same volume level (in the upper bass). The bass at or near the resonant point (28 Hz) has not particularly changed - so 25 Hz to 35 Hz is about the same - the deep notes, per those in "Dark Knight" actually seem to have slightly more volume (and those are low 20's) - with of course a more focused sound. This is a HIGHLY recommended modification. With one MAJOR CAVEAT. Do NOT - repeat do NOT perform this modification if you are using an amplifier from the "vintage" era. Those amps/receivers - no matter their size, shape or reputation cannot handle the low impedance of the two woofers in parallel. You will end up "smoking" your prized vintage amplifer/receiver. Only attempt this mod if you are certain that your amplifier is absolutely stable with a 2 ohm load. if you are not certain - then don't burn down your amp - and/or your home. The AR-9 was always highly praised for its great bass response (among many other aspects of its performance) - but that bass really becomes exceptional with this modification.
  13. I scanned the AR9 Owner's Reference Manual and put it into a single PDF file. At 102MB, it is too large for me to upload here. However, you can download it from my server: http://archive.mgm51.com/library/AcousticResearch/
  14. Looking for a pair of AR9 speakers with cabinets in good condition. Near Massachusetts. Contact me thru the PM system.
  15. I've been emailing with a CL seller on a pair of AR9's and I keep telling him he needs to send me photos of all the drivers before I commit to a long drive. I got one picture of one of the woofers. The surround looks nice and wide BUT the cone does not look right to me. Any ideas on the originality of this woofer being an authentic and original AR woofer?
  16. I looked at a pair of all original AR9’s for sale. Of course they need refoaming but the main concern is NO SOUND from either high tweeter. (meaning the high tweeter on each speaker is not sounding) The speakers have had 2 mature owners and reportedly have not been abused (and show no signs of it). Is this more likely to be the tweeter itself or the attenuation switch? The switches for the low mids and the mid range dome function properly. This would not be a result of missing jumpers on the back panel speaker wire connections could it. (the jumpers were in place but possibly may not have been making contact- but I’m thinking since the low mid and the mid dome were working that all circuits were getting a signal) I was unable to do any diagnostics at the sellers house and an agreed price could not be settled on so I passed on them. Looks like used tweeters run about 100.00 each give or take. Did not find any used attenuation switches for sale. I would rate cabinet (1 chip) and grill (some light pilling) condition a 7 or 8 out of 10. Opinions on likely culprit? What is a fair price to pay for these in this state? Thanks!
  17. Now that I have all the drivers up to par on my AR9's I want to start focusing in on the caps. The speakers do sound great as is but the caps are all the original callins with the 5 of the lower values being the black and reds. Also, the exterior condition of the speakers (pretty rough) suggest to me that these may have gone thru some heavy and potentially abusive use along the way. I initially would like to only replace the upper range caps, but do plan on measuring the others (all the metal case ones) to make sure they are on par with spec. I may even take them into my tech for thorough testing of the 3 measurements. I have a DMM that I can test the capacitance with for an initial test. Of course pricing on caps can get out of control quickly and I do not intend to spend a lot, but do think the mighty AR9's are worthy of doing what's right. So this leaves us with cap values of 4, 6, 8, 24 and 40. One in each speaker. I have checked some of the usual sources and thus far have the following options: Started with least expensive options(for both speakers): Erse MPX 250v - 3.9uf(2), 6.0 (2), 8.2(2), 24(2), and 39 (2) = $50.02 (Surprisingly cheap) Parts Express Solen 400v 3.9uf(2), 3.0(4), 8.2(2), 24(2), and 20(4) = $100.62 Dayton PMPC -250v 4uf(6), 3(4), 12(4), and 40(2) = $126.80 Madisound Claritycap PX 3.9uf(2), 6.0(2), 8.2(2), 12(2), and 39(2) = $122.40 Step up in $ : Claritycap ESA 3.9uf(2), 3.0(4), 8.2(2), 25(2), and 39(2) = $216.40 Mundorf EVO Aluminum Oil 3.9uf(2), 2.7+3.3(2), 8.2(2), 22+2.2(2), ad 33+6.(2) = $321.04 (a little less for the non oil version of the EVO) Things get quickly out of control beyond what I went to with the Mundorfs it seems. What do you guys think? Anybody use these in this application? Any others I should line up? Maybe an option would be to go with the nice EVO Aluminum oils on the 4 and 6 only and a less expensive option on the 8, 24 and 40?
  18. ****WARNING**** This thread is not for the faint at heart. Thread contains graphically disturbing images that may leave a lasting impression one may not want. Proceed only if you think you can handle it without severe traumatic stress. On my trip to pick up the ADS L1590's (see ADS section) I mentioned to the seller (over a 2 hour lunch where we talked about this wonderful hobby) that I had the AR9 on my bucket list. He says "I know where a beat up pair is you could probably get cheaply". Needless to say, the hair on the back of my neck stood up. We quickly headed to our new destination. An hour later I had these in the rear of my Sequoia lying next to the 1590's. Like I said, be careful as these images my be disturbing to some: I am not sure if they are in working order, but it appears all the important stuff is in tact including the acoustic blanket surprisingly.. Apparently the woofer grilles are long gone and someone used those covers fortunately to keep them from additional damage. I will submit another post with the innerds.
  19. Just popped up http://buffalo.craigslist.org/ele/5433560252.html
  20. Ever since re-capping my AR91s with PP caps I've wanted to do my AR90s. I have a question on the tweeter crossover difference. The 91 has only a 4uF cap in series with a .2mH coil in parallel and the AR9 and 90 have a 0.105mH coil with a 4uF and 6uF caps in series. I'm wondering what the 4uF and 6uF in series does. Is the difference only because of the coil difference?
  21. Last night a couple of my new neighbors stopped by for the evening. There was food, beer, and wine. And music. The age of this couple was maybe 25, 26, if that much. (aside: I find that good music transcends genrations) But what they said to me was amazing. They wanted to know where I bought my speakers, beause they wanted a pair. When I told them that I bought the speakers (AR9's) before they were born, and that Acoustic Research is no longer an ongoing business entity, you should have seen the sadness in their face. Well, if nothing else, at least I broke them of the MP3 habit. But I was left pondering, what is it in music that I enjoy? I truly enjoy the Benny Goodman 78's that I have. And they are definitely not high fidelity. What is it about music that I enjoy?.... (oh jeez, another sleepless night as I ponder that question) What is it in music that you enjoy?
  22. The mystery of the 6uf cap in the AR9 schematics that is. My new to me 9x's have the 6uf cap instead of the 8uf cap that the 9's have. I wonder if the change in the caps is why these are 9x's. I am taking pictures as I go and will post them at a later date. These were modified by a speaker shop and I plan to bring them back to what they once were. Luckily they left the original xovers alone, they just added to them. They didn't even recap them when they did the modes. Harry
  23. I scanned the AR9 Instructions booklet into a single, high-quality pdf file. The Instructions booklet resembles a 'quick reference guide' for the speaker, as opposed to the much larger Reference Manual. The pdf is too large to upload here, but you can download it from my server: http://archive.mgm51.com/library/AcousticResearch/
  24. I found an old folder in my file cabinet with some older AR9 literature and stuff. Here's a review. I have it also in single-page PDF format, but it is about 4MB in size, and I cannot upload it.
  25. I've built a hybrid: AR9 for bass section and AR9LS for the rest. I have a question: I know values of elements in the bass section of the AR9 crossover, but one value, the coil's resistance. If anyone knows this value, could you please post it here? P.S. Or maybe someone can sell original AR9's coils from disassembly?
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