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Found 5 results

  1. New to the forum, so hello. I'm hoping for some help and advice on a pair of ARs I just acquired (thankfully cheaply). The Grill badge is AR-6, but the tweeters had been replaced with something from Radio Shack and some changes made to the crossovers! I have attached pictures in the hope that someone can identify which year/country of origin, if indeed they are AR-6s, and most importantly - where I might search for/find the correct tweeters (and crossover, if necessary)....
  2. For many years—perhaps from the very beginning—AR had a difficult time selling their products in typical audio salon showrooms. In fact, from 1954 until around 1974, AR made no attempt to cultivate good dealer relationships. Nevertheless, and despite the lack of dealer success, AR outsold nearly every other speaker manufacturer worldwide for many years without a strong, formal dealer network. How was this possible? AR products traditionally had the highest ratings and best reviews, but a prospective speaker buyer would never know it to visit the typical, small hi-fi showroom where one usually encountered a negative vibe in a showroom when an AR speaker was being demonstrated. Many times, dealers would "doctor" the speaker, reverse the polarity, turn-down the level controls or place the speaker inappropriately or disadvantageously for good A-B demos with competing products. Some dealers felt that customers would enter a store, make a decision to buy an AR product and simply go out and order it from the Allied Radio or Lafayette catalogs. Was it due to.... 1. Low dealer profit margins? 2. Lack of dealer salesman "spiffs" paid by AR? 3. Lack of dealer promotionals? 4. Lack of dealer co-op advertising? 5. AR's lack of "hand-holding" and blasé attitude towards dealers? 6. AR's traditional laissez-faire method of doing business? 7. Other reasons? Give examples of experiences you've had in dealer showrooms where AR speakers were intentionally maligned, "bad-mouthed" or "doctored" in order for a dealer to steer an unsuspecting customer to another product. —Tom Tyson
  3. >I also recall having read the same detailed information from Stereophile, and I assume its correctness against what appears to be a sort of revisionist article containing conflated timelines, unattributed premises and boot-strapped conclusions. >I've been wishing & hoping for Tom Tyson's definitive AR history for years...would a GoFundMe effort be in vain? —ar_pro Book: The History of Acoustic Research Any and all suggestions and ideas here would be greatly appreciated! Any thoughts about what you would like to see would be great as well. To do a complete history would be difficult, but a history of the "Classic Period," from 1954-1974 (or 1980 perhaps) in one part and the Teledyne/International Jensen/Recoton/Voxx period in another part or in a revised edition. The most important part of AR history is the first 25 years or so. Anyway, please reply with your thoughts and ideas, for example: The best title for such a book? The period covered with this book; part of all? The amount of detail to be included in this book? The size of this book, a small book with 150 pp or so, or comprehensive with perhaps 300 pp? The other questions you might have. There are also many people here on this website with detailed knowledge of specific aspects of AR history and technology. Therefore, give me ideas about how you would like to see such a book. —Tom Tyson 06Jun2017
  4. The two pair of Euro AR-6's arrived from flea bay today. They were almost packed well. One trim piece on the cabs with the raised grill lip broke off on one side and will need to be glued. I'm sure these will keep me busy for quite some time. The organic pilsner is to show scale and keep me happy Quick analysis revealed serials in the 27,000 and 37,000 range. The labels on these come off easily unlike the US versions. Three front wired tweeters and one rear wired. The rear wired tweeter has a break in the lead at the cone junction. I can probably fix that one since I did one the other day on a 4xa -- that is another story. Another has a dimpled cone -- been there recently so it should be easy to fix. One of the wax caps on the 27K pair was floating around inside the cabinet -- staple fail. One bad alnico woofer that it looks like someone put into overdrive without a surround. I'll have to cut the dust cap off and see if the coil lead is repairable. The voice coil looks okay from the side. The grills on the 27K cabs were hot-glued and had never been removed. One crossover board was entirely detached on the 37K speakers. No staples here only some type of hot glue. I just went ahead and pulled the other one as well. Not my favorite particle board for baffle and back as it is the coarse grain-type which is weaker in my opinion. I will probably coat the insides with epoxy to stabilize it. The 37K serial has ceramic woofers with the 2nd order resistor/cap combo. The cones on these are much stiffer than the rippled cones on the 27K pair. Here is the crossover with 3 position switch. The pots on the 27K crossover are not great but not all that bad either. The fiberglass l got a bit warm here. Whoever owned these obviously needed some JBLs. The ceramic woofers have gaskets under the surround attached to the baskets. Some AR marked caps. I've seen some people referring to this as a Zobel network but it is not the right set up for that. I think Zilch covered this circuit when he did his AR-4 mods. All and all it looks like a typical transaction on the auction site. I figured I'd get at least one pair and some spare parts out of this Roger
  5. Hi everyone, I am new to the forum. I’ve been reading those pages previously a lot, but now, since I obtained a lovely sounding AR-6’s, I will need some help from you guys. So, I would like to restore my AR-6's and make them not only perfectly functional, but also would like to restore the cabinets and grilles. The cabinets will be sanded, repainted and oiled, maybe even lacquered but for that to be nicely done I will have to remove the LF and HF drivers. - Is it a good idea to have the cabinets veneered with natural veneer or it would be best to leave them as they are? - While restoring the cabinets, perhaps it would be a good idea to replace the capacitor(s) and the foam surrounds too? The capacitors have never been replaced. The surrounds look like new but the job was not done with love obviously. They sound great, but the foams are twisted at some places and not nicely glued and I would like this to be done by a professional. - Will I also need to replace/change the "cabinet sealer" material that I see it protrudes from both drivers? Mine are with 3 position switch on the back (normal/decrease/increase), those are referred as European model and the previous owner told me they have the ceramic LF driver. I also have some other questions: I am driving them with NAD 3020. Is this amp enough for them? Will they benefit from extra power? And there's one thing that concerns me... while listening several songs that are bass heavy (on high volume but far from distortion level) I've heard a reaping/braking sound... I was afraid that I have damaged the LF drivers for good, cause it sounded just like the paper cones were teared. Very unpleasant sound. Nothing was damaged luckily. Now I never cross that volume threshold but I do feel like they are not close to their maximum potential. After all, NAD 3020 is 25W per channel and they should handle up to 100 wpc. Can this be due to the sealing material not doing his job properly? Thank you for reading this long post, I know I am asking too much but I am new in the vintage world and this is an unknown territory for me.
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