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So I bought a new multi-meter and decided to check the resistance of all the drivers on my AR18. So far so good. All drivers (woofers and tweeters) showed a good 5 ohms. While I was at it I also checked the capacitors I replaced. Still good there. showed about 6uF. On a hunch, I checked the older capacitors which were still in the cabinet. While one showed 7uF the other showed a insane 18.5 uF. Now using the calculator http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=1 , I figured the hi pass as intended by the company would be 5300hz. But with the wonky capactor it would be 1766hz. Would that have damaged the tweeter in the past? Sorry for such a noob question! Here is the older thread on rebuilding them
These speakers were given to me by a friend of mine at church who had them in the back of his truck destined for Goodwill. The cabinets were fairly rough and the grille fabric had been replaced but everything else was original. I had never restored a set of speakers before but thanks to the encouragement of Roy, Glenn, Kent and others on this site, I have spent the last 6 weeks restoring them and am very happy with how they turned out. Here are a few of the details: Year: 1963-4 Make: Acoustic Research Model: AR-3 Serial #s: C21604 & C21611 Restoration summary: - Original dual 24uF and 6uF paper capacitor replaced with new Solen 24uF 400V and Dayton Audio 6.2uF 250V Precision Audio Capacitors from Parts Express - Original 16 Ohm / 25 Watt wire-wound potentiometers were corroded beyond repair and were replaced with modern reproduction wire-wound potentiometers of the same size and specifications from captainfantastic07 on eBay. - Cabinets sanded and hand-rubbed with Watco Danish Oil (Dark Walnut) and finished with four coats of Minwax satin polyurethane. - Woofer perimeter and bolt holes resealed with speaker sealing caulk from Parts Express - Original plastic speaker grill frames replaced with more durable 1/4" Masonite for easier installation and removal. - Masonite speaker grille frames spray painted flat black before wrapping with fabric to prevent frame being seen through fabric. - Reproduction speaker grille saran material from Q-Components in Canada. - 3M automotive trim adhesive tape followed by ¼” heavy duty staples to prevent slipping of material or fraying of fabric edges - Reproduction “AR Inc” and "3" pin from jKent Attached are a few pictures so you can see before and after and some of the steps along the way. I plan on enjoying them for a while and then will probably try selling them locally before putting on eBay to avoid the hassle and potential damage associated with shipping. Thank you to Roy, Glenn and Kent for all of your input and for the wealth of information everyone else has contributed to this site! If you have any questions or comments, please let me know! Thanks, Steve
Thought you might find this interesting. This capacitor, removed from a very early 60's AR3 (Serial numbers in the 9xxx range). One can see how far a cap can "drift" in 58 years. The 24 uf cap is now over 60 and the 6 uf cap is around 10 uf. Now, i know my cap tester is hardly a tol model, but it's in the neighborhood.