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Found 7 results

  1. Hi, I am looking for the crossover schematics for the Allison Threes. I have a set of late model cherry Allison Threes, and a set of early first gens. Crossovers look totally different.
  2. hello classic speaker gurus! this is my 1st post, though i've been a member for a while. i am taking a look at my AR 5 crossovers to see if they need updating. i did some research and found carl's schematic (attached), another schematic (looked the same), and some pictures. so i was surprised when i opened up the box and found this: http://albums.phanfare.com/isolated/Dk50KRQL/1/6272416 i expected 3 capacitors: 4uF, 24 uF and 72 uF. instead i only found one object i immediately recognized as a capacitor (i am a novice at this). it is the 4uF cap. so where are the 24 and 72 uF caps? there is a boxlike object with several wires running into it that seems to be sealed with wax? are there capacitors in there? i bought them from an engineer who said he had restored them but i don't think he remembered the details. maybe i can try to contact them. anyways, would love any advice! AR5_schematic.pdf
  3. Well, I had been warned by many here that my beloved 38 year old AR-9's would eventually need to have their crossovers recapped. I was listening to a quadraphonic SACD on my system (The AR-90's are the front speakers and the AR-9's are the surrounds) when I noticed reduced output from the right rear AR-9. I immediately stopped playing the music and used a white noise test tone on the speaker. The tweeter not only had reduced output but was crackling away. Miraculously, I was pleased to discover upon re-capping that the tweeter DID NOT BLOW. Perhaps these tweeters are very robust, or perhaps the bass-free rear channels of the quadraphonic SACD saved it, or maybe I just dodged a bullet. Anyway, I replaced all of the upper range capacitors. The three smallest capacitors are Dayton PMPC (1%); the 30uF and 40uF caps are Dayton DMPC (5%); the 24uF cap is a Solen (5%) and the 80uF cap was replaced with a Jantzen 82uF (5%). I used Dayton or Janzen wherever possible as I understand that the Solens sound a bit brighter based on what I've read in these pages. I sent the old Callen capacitors, except for one of the 6uF units, to my cousin for measurement. The results are shown in the attached diagram: - One 6uF cap was off by 400%. This is the one that probably had failed and caused the immediate problem with the tweeter. - Both 30uF caps were way off by over 40%. - All the 4uF and 8uF caps still measured very close to their ratings. - The 24uF, 40uF and 80uF caps were in the range of 20% or less than nameplate. Given that both of the the 80uF caps were very close to each other at +15%, I suspect that they have always been that way. It is interesting to note that the AR-9's now sound somewhat clearer the the AR-90's but the 90's sound a tad sweeter. The AR-90's are a bit more forgiving and sound better with crappy source material while the AR-9's are more revealing and sound better with great sounding source material. Regardless, the upper range crossovers of the AR-90's will get redone next month as doing so is inevitable. Much thanks to all of you who provided input on this site regarding recapping these speakers. It was very helpful. AR Surround
  4. Sometime back I brought up the topic of modifying the AR-9 bass crossover network. Many thanks to Roy C for his comments and insight in this area. For those of you not familiar with this topic I have included the bass crossover schematic attachment My original question was based on speculation about what were the sonic effects of cutting loose the coil/cap that form a variable attenuation for this crossover. Holl noted in his design notes that these additional components contributed two aspects to the crossover function: 1) the combination of cap/coil added resistance at all frequencies higher than resonance thereby protecting the generally less than robust amplifiers of that era ('79 to '81) and 2) the extra R (as realized by these two components tended to "linearize" the bass performance in the general area of 30 Hz to 100 Hz (mid/upper bass). Note carefully that this cap is the infamous 2500 uF, about the size of a 16 ounce beer can, that so many people hate to replace (expensive, et cetera). I pondered the schematic for a considerable time and I could understand the basis of Holl's thinking. Amps of that era did not deal well with low impedances - and those two woofers in parallel formed an impedance that dipped as low as 2.5 ohms (back breakers to most receiver style amps). In addition the extra R would tend to keep a "mid/upper" bass rise in response from forming. My own analysis indicated that in THIS era of robust amps the extra impedance was NOT needed - my amps (Odyssey Audio Khartago Mono Blocs) are stable with a two ohm load - and those are not extremely expensive amplifiers. In addition the extra R contributed by these two components would tend to raise the Q of the circuit - thus making the bass above resonance more "wooly" and less precise. But I couldn't be sure. So I cut the darn things - right at the red mark in the drawing. Quick clip of the diagonal cutters and viola - the parts were out of circuit. I did however leave the parts inside the cabinet. (next time I go in there the entire crossover is "coming out" to be installed in an external box). So how does the resultant speaker sound? Pretty darn good - I will have an F/R plot for review sometime next week (friend has to come over and measure) but my subjective appraisal goes along these lines; All the bass has become "tighter" and is obviously being generated by a lower Q system - there was no "boom" before but now the bass is supple, tight and detailed. The bass in the region of 35 Hz to about 80 Hz has evidenced a significant increase in perceived volume - rather startling actually. Again the increase in perceived volume is not an increase in boom - but instead a lot more of a "tight" and agile bass response. If I am hearing - without any loss of quantity a higher quality bass, i.e. tighter and more focused (in the 80 to 160 range) then in truth the quantitative response (volume) HAS increased - boomy, high Q bass is typically perceived as louder - my bass is now lower Q but has maintained the same volume level (in the upper bass). The bass at or near the resonant point (28 Hz) has not particularly changed - so 25 Hz to 35 Hz is about the same - the deep notes, per those in "Dark Knight" actually seem to have slightly more volume (and those are low 20's) - with of course a more focused sound. This is a HIGHLY recommended modification. With one MAJOR CAVEAT. Do NOT - repeat do NOT perform this modification if you are using an amplifier from the "vintage" era. Those amps/receivers - no matter their size, shape or reputation cannot handle the low impedance of the two woofers in parallel. You will end up "smoking" your prized vintage amplifer/receiver. Only attempt this mod if you are certain that your amplifier is absolutely stable with a 2 ohm load. if you are not certain - then don't burn down your amp - and/or your home. The AR-9 was always highly praised for its great bass response (among many other aspects of its performance) - but that bass really becomes exceptional with this modification.
  5. Hi ! I'm new to the forum but have been lurking for a week or so. I bought 1 Model 12 at a thrift shop without the contour box for $13. I was planning on converting this by building a Model 5 Crossover instead of buying a contour box. Then building a matching Model 12 box (w/ drivers) and adding another Model 5 crossover. I know it sounds ambitious. I saw a lot of the discussions about recapping the model 5 and viewed the schematics and photos, also the work J. Kent has done with crossover rebuilds. My question is where can I get the 12 terminal 3 position switches and the inductors? Also does anyone sell a pre-fabbed Model 5 crossover PCB? Thanks, Jim
  6. Tyler

    ADVENT 6003

    I have a pair of advent 6003's that sound so good as they are I'm hesitant to tamper with the crossovers. Could not doing anything to upgrade them be harmful to the teeeter or midrange speaker?
  7. Hi, I bought some original large advents(I believe) I like the sound but they have some problems. When the high frequency switch is turned to anything but extended there is no output from the tweeter. It looks to me as if they are OLAs that the tweeters has been replaced in. If so, how should I go about updating the crossover? -Thanks
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