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Hello All, First post, I’ll do my best to be coherent (so go easy...). I really could use some guidance and reality checking. I’m trained as an engineer, so not a complete idiot, but electrical engineering was always confusing and acoustics, somewhat baffling (hah.) I’m trying to reconstruct the Double Advent system of my high school days, back when my older brother would come home from college and we’d pair up our respective pairs of The Advent Loudspeaker. Not being made of money, I concluded that rebuilding four speakers was going to be cheaper (well...we’ll see) than buying four refurbished. Plus, it would be fun. At this point I plan to drive them with my old but soon to be professionally refurbished, Nakamichi SR-3A receiver. In high school I had a Dynaco PAT4 preamp and Stereo 80 power amp. Based on my reading, I’ll probably install Pete B’s BSC circuit into the tape monitor, stuff the cabinets with fiberglass, perhaps add additional braces inside the cabinets. (Though I haven’t been able to find a thread that indicates exactly why this is helpful, can anybody help?) I managed to procure four New Advent Utility cabinets and separately, four steel frame, square magnet woofers. One set of woofers needs refoaming, I’ve purchased the surrounds for these from Rick Cobb (looneytoon2001). The second set has been refoamed...improperly, to the front of the cone face rather than the rear. QUESTION 1: Frankly, I’m inclined to let a sleeping dog lie, but: Does anyone have experience on the impact on sound quality when the refoam is to the cone front rather than the cone back (on the steel frame Advent woofers)? If I chose to re-replace the surrounds on the incorrect refoam, does anyone have tips on how to best remove the existing foam from the front face of the cone without damaging the cone? Being a chemical engineer by trade, I’m not necessarily shy about using solvents (properly), but that would not be my preference. I know that some of you could probably refoam these woofers blindfolded by now, so I could use your guidance. So, obviously, I’m on the track of rebuilding four The New Advent Loudspeakers (NLA)and not four The Advent Loudspeakers, (OLA) and this is where it has gotten tricky. There seems to be a large quantity of original, offset mount fried egg tweeters available, but very few flush mount fried eggs. Of the flush mount fried eggs that I’ve seen (including the one that I’ve purchased 😒), a fair percentage seem to have decent sized (~3-4mm) holes poked into the diaphragm by the protective mesh or other trauma. I’m skeptical that such damage can really be repaired. I’m finding (and maybe to be expected) that there are also a large number of OLA crossover boards available and not too many NLA crossover boards. Realistically, I plan to completely rebuild the crossovers, even down to the Masonite boards if needed, so that’s really not a showstopper, but finding enough good flush mount tweeters seems to be a problem. I'm starting to leans towards using the OLA fried eggs instead of the NLA flush mount fried eggs, knowing that I’d need to use the OLA crossover design also. It seems to me that the only real difference, given my understanding that the steel frame woofers can serve as a drop in replacement for the Masonite woofers, is that the cabinet volume is slightly larger on the NLA due to the baffle being placed a little more forward since the flush mount tweeters don’t need the grill standoffs. QUESTION 2: Is reverting back to the OLA tweeters and the OLA crossovers in the NLA cabinet a stupid idea? If stupid, why? If not stupid, then I have a choice of either mounting the OLA tweeters directly to the baffle, where the tweeter will now stand proud of the cabinet face, requiring standoffs if I want to use the grills and looking a little wonky since the grills will now also stand proud of the cabinet face, or I could perhaps countersink the tweeter assembly by routing 1/4” to 3/8” of depth out of the front face of the baffle where the tweeter mounting flange is located. QUESTION 3: Does countersinking the tweeter assembly make sense? If I reinforce the tweeter mounting area by solidly gluing a square of MDF to the interior side of the baffle, right behind the tweeter assembly, is that likely to degrade acoustic performance? QUESTION 4: My Nakamichi receiver, is rated at 45 W/ch into 8 ohms (minimum), 16 ohms minimum with A+B outputs driven. I believe that it’s STASIS design may make it somewhat more vulnerable to low impedance loads, but that’s so far out of my wheelhouse that I’ve no idea what to think. I’ve seen measurements for this receiver down to 2 ohms. However, I’d prefer not to burn it up and I know the Double Advents, driven in parallel can go to pretty low impedance. I believe the OLA tweeters and crossovers are better in this sense than the NLAs. What things can I do to minimize the strain on the amplifier? Are there other things that I should watch out for? Sorry for the length of this post. Thank you for your consideration! AustinJoeC
New member and a first time posting. Has anyone ever attempted to recover a damaged OLA Orange Fried Egg Tweeter. It would seem to be a relatively simple procedure if anyone fabricates the a cone/dome replacement. The tweeter was damaged when the Masonite plate pulled away from the base. The lead wires broke free and tore away from the cone. Currently own four Walnut OLA's, restoring a set of OLA Utility and just received set of Powered Large Advents for Christmas. I had a pair of used APALs for a summer in the early 80's. I returned them when one of the Amps intermittently failed to power up. Just before Christmas I stumbled across a set at a pawnshop. The wife swooped in and picked them up for me. $125 electrical repair later (one unit continually went into protect mode) and I now have a working set for just under $500. My pair of OLA's from High School are still in service at my Home Room Teacher house.