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Found 4 results

  1. Well i blew a tweeter a couple days back. So I'm gonna need to.find some suitable replacements. I'm hoping that one f ya'll can give me some other models that have a tweeter that will be a match to the vr40. Obviously I can't get any orignal VR40 pieces, unless someone here has a couple they would part with. Thank for reading my post.
  2. Hi guys, I'm new to the site. I've been reading a lot about these speakers but I still haven't got the opportunity to test them at full potential. This is my situation. I got from my uncle his pair of AR-3a improved dated July 28th 1986 (or what is left from them). They where stored in terrible conditions, misused with an 8 Ohm Sansui 9090DB receiver, and "serviced" lately by a killer technician. The tweeters and mid range drivers are gone. Crossover circuits has been "bypassed" (killed). Both woofers are alive, they just need a refoam. Do you think is it worth to restore them? or it would be a total waste of money? I love the woofers on these ones, I wouldn't wanna throw them away... I would need to rebuild the crossovers and get the replacements for both tweeters and mid range drivers. Here are some pictures
  3. I have 'inherited' a pair of KLH Model Thirty-three speakers. They sound quite nice.... except that there is nothing coming out of the woofer of one of them. Nothing at all. I saw nothing damaged or broken during a superficial visual inspection of the wiring and soldering (once I unscrewed the woofer from the cabinet). Could you help me diagnose the problem, verify the diagnosis, and fix it? I can imagine two obvious potential issues: 1. the woofer is bad and needs to be repaired or replaced; 2. the caps are so old (or at least one is so old) that it/they form(s) a break in the circuitry. Are there any other potential issues I should be looking for? What is the best way to confirm or reject either issue above? I could use a Volt/Ohm/Amp-meter to measure between the two contacts on the woofer, while playing something (the amp is an old British great: a Creek 4040S2). Could I tell from the readings I get if the problem is with the woofer or with what is wending its way to the woofer on the wires? (sorry, couldn't resist :)). Similarly, could i measure something on each capacitor in place to determine if that cap is a break in the circuit? Would it make sense to disconnect the woofer in the 'bad' speaker and connect it in parallel (or perhaps in place of) the woofer in the good speaker. If i do that and the woofer from the bad speaker is still silent -- does that prove that I should just throw it away, or is it possible that it can be repaired? If it can't be repaired, would someone be able to recommend a source for a replacement? WIll I need to buy a pair if I'm replacing one? If there is a better way to diagnose the problem, and/or some other likely cause than the two i could think of, please enlighten me, As far as I could see from these pages, the only (non-cosmetic, functional) repair one normally needs to do is to replace the caps. Are there other things I should check? Thank you for your noob-friendliness, truly THANKS! --scott UPDATE/EDIT: The woofers are connected to the wiring by simple wire-nuts, so it was very easy to swap them. When I did this, I discovered two things, neither good: 1. the woofer that had been silent continued to be silent, and the woofer that had previously worked continued to work. However,it seems that the midrange/tweeter in the formerly "good" speaker wasn't working after all (while the one in the enclosure that originally housed the 'bad' woofer continued to work fine). The end result of this swap, therefore, is that I have one speaker which seems to work just fine, and one that is completely silent. There's nothing obviously physically wrong it.... but both cones make no sound. If i can do anything which might correct this, I am very open to suggestions, THANKS!
  4. Here's what they looked like when I got them: None of the regular pickers at the GWO had ever seen them, apparently. So they were sitting around ignored and available when I got there. I didn't recognize them either, but I was intrigued by the heavy weight, and then I started to get it as I looked at the woofer paper. I had seen that distinctive type paper before, on some AR-93s I restored for someone. Then the notion that I'd heard of Heathkit making a speaker with AR drivers bubbled up.... GWO got $10.00 and I got the speakers. Initial testing shows 5 of six drivers functional. One tweeter open. I plan to buy some modern tweets, since the vintage ones seem to be aging out on us. Probably the HiVi Q1Rs. Both midranges sound OK, but one was missing the grill and damping from the front. I've now replaced this stuff--see seperate thread here: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?showtopic=8433&hl= The woofers match, and bear the part number 401-155 AR. That's the Heathkit part number. They both also have inventory tags from some outfit called "Speakers Unlimited," that bear a date in 1989. I figure that shop redid the surrounds at that time. It's time to do it again. Here's some views of the back of one: Cabs came stuffed with this grey stuff, all torn chunks under what you see here. Not fluffy. A sort of rock wool I guess. Will replace with fiberglass. The crossovers include the famous brick capacitor. I'll put in a poly type to replace the 6 uf, but I'm not sure at this point if the brick stays or goes.... Haven't tested or pulled the pots yet, so don't know if they can be fixed up or not. Fingers crossed. All in all, about as neat a project as I ever ran into, at least since I got the AR-93s out of the same GWO. (That project led to me learning to sew....) This will go sort of slow--basically, cash is tight, so I can't buy everything at once. Will appreciate hearing how everyone feels about keeping the brick capacitor at this point (and no, can't test it, my tester only goes up tp 20 uf.)
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