Jump to content
The Classic Speaker Pages Discussion Forums
Sign in to follow this  
srkitchens

Reconing an OLA Fried Egg Tweeter

Recommended Posts

New member and a first time posting.  Has anyone ever attempted to recover a damaged OLA Orange Fried Egg Tweeter.  It would seem to be a relatively simple procedure if anyone fabricates the a cone/dome replacement.  The tweeter was damaged when the Masonite plate pulled away from the base.  The lead wires broke free and tore away from the cone.

Currently own four Walnut OLA's, restoring a set of OLA Utility and just received set of Powered Large Advents for Christmas.  I had a pair of used APALs for a summer in the early 80's.  I returned them when one of the Amps intermittently failed to power up.  Just before Christmas I stumbled across a set at a pawnshop.  The wife swooped in and picked them up for me.  $125 electrical repair later (one unit continually went into protect mode) and I now have a working set for just under $500.

My pair of OLA's from High School are still in service at my Home Room Teacher house.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I haven't tried repairing an Advent fried egg yet but I want to figure out how as one of the leads in one of my very early ones (from 1970 - before the grilles were used) broke off right at the cone. I wouldn't need to replace the cone but I need to be able to get to the lead to solder a new piece to it to reach the terminal.

As for the cones, they were made from a slurry and somehow spun out into the final shape and colored with light bulb dye. The very first ones weren't dyed and were just kind of an off-white and there was a reason why they needed to dye them orange but I can't remember why it was now. It may have been for an extra bit of rigidity.

Doug

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rubbing alcohol desolved the glue around the outside rim of the tweeter.  Once softened I was able to lift the cone edge and see the spider (I was surprised to see a spider on a tweeter) and solder points for the leads.  The center dome is glued to the top of the voice coil (I have not yet attempted to remove it).  Without removing the cone from the voice coil I can not see how to get a soldering iron under the cone.  

Still pondering.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×