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Acoustic Research AR5 tweeters shot

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20 hours ago, JKent said:

If you go the Hi-Vi route, they're $18.77 ea at PE. The 0.05mH inductor is $1.98.

JKent - this is the Hi-Vi tweeter, correct? it's 6 ohms... this will work with the inductor with with my 8 ohm AR5s?

I see people mention in the reviews they've used with the AR2ax (8 ohm) and the AR3 (4 ohm)...

https://www.parts-express.com/hivi-q1r-1-1-8-textile-dome-tweeter--297-417#lblProductDetails

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Hi cb

I'll try to address your last 3 posts.

  • I'm not a Facebook user so I don't know about tagging but whatever you did, those little boxes do bring up info about the user.
  • Chris's rebuilds are excellent. I just spoke to Roy and he expressed admiration for Chris's work.
  • The fact that the HiVi is back-wired isn't a problem. They can be converted to front-wired by drilling 2 little holes and adding 2 wires. But as I mentioned, I believe your speakers may have been back-wired originally. It looks to me as though the mids were drilled and wired as I described and one tweeter was as well. It is very easy to back-wire. I can go into that if you wish.
  • That damage doesn't look all that bad. Where are you located? There may be other options. As you know, re-veneering is expensive and won't look original.
  • Some AR-5s used the light color linen that is available online. I'm not familiar with your brown cloth but maybe consulting a dry cleaner makes sense. Or you might try to brush off as much as possible, vacuum, then use some spray-on upholstery cleaner. The risk is shrinkage but if you do it on the frame it could work.
  • Repro badges? Why? Were the originals missing? If they are just discolored they can be polished up very easily.
  • Yes--the HiVi tweeter is 6 Ohms. I spoke to Roy (he's the one who came up with this mod) and he said it will work fine in the 3a, 2ax and 5. Just be sure to use the coil as I described previously. Use the .05, not .07: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-005mh-18-awg-perfect-layer-inductor-crossover-coil--257-798

So. I think I answered your questions. If you are anywhere near northern NJ I'd be happy to take a look at them but if not we can help here. My suggestion is to go with the HiVi tweeters and no cabinet work. That will allow you to get the speakers up and running for about 50 bux and you can see if you love them. You may then decide to go all out and get Chris to rebuild your original tweeters. You can sell the HiVis here or on ebay and probably get half the expense back. 

Glenn (GD70) is an expert at repairing cabinets. If you have the time and inclination you may be able to fix that corner yourself. Basically, you get into the seam and dig out all the loose and swollen particles. Then put glue in the joint and clamp it tightly with bar clamps (I can go into more detail). When it's all dry you scrape off any oozed-out glue and sand the cabinets VERY lightly, avoiding edges where you could go through the veneer. Then there are various ways to refinish but what I usually do is go over all of the wood with walnut color Howard Restore-a-Finish to even out the color. Wipe that dry and wait a day, then wipe on Watco Danish Oil, either natural or walnut. The original finish was boiled linseed oil, so you could use that instead of the Watco.

Kent

 

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1 hour ago, JKent said:

So. I think I answered your questions.

YES! you've been most helpful! I've learned ALOT the last couple of days. this forum and it's users are a wealth of information!!

I’m almost certain I’m going with rebuilds from Chris and I’m really leaning towards trying the Hi-Vi tweeters too. it’s a small price to pay to have back-ups on hand. And I’d like to hear them both too.

I’ve got a busy weekend in front of my but I’m gonna TRY to get back to these guys this weekend. or guy I should say. I've got one rebuilt (new L pads and caps, refoamed woofers), one left to do. I’m almost certain they’re both still front-wired and it’s not visible. I peeled the tape back a couple of months ago when I got them.

Since posting I have seen several photos of the Hi-Vis. The holes drilled thru for front wiring, the way they should be wired up. So I’m pretty clean on what I need to do.

As to the cabs… I’m in St. Louis. I’m going to clean them up and re-assess. But I’m really leaning towards either dealing with it as it after clean up or trying to self repair that one seam as you’ve mentioned. I’ve got some big ass clamps. And I understand your description of the repair. I think this might be within my skillset. ;) I might pester Glenn as you recommended there too. I’ve read great things about the Restore a Finish. But no experience as of yet. I’m sure it’s coming tho. I’ve got a couple of consoles I’m also working on. And you can tell what might follow me home.  :) 

I’m leaning more and more to dry cleaning the grill clothe. Unless someone here, or the dry cleaner express concern. They both in decent shape. Just dirty, dusty and cobwebby.

My badges are ROUGH. I thought I had photos of both the originals and the reproductions. But I can’t find them. The reproductions are very well done. I’ll post photos of both tonight or this weekend. I don’t have much invested in the reproductions. I don’t feel like I have to use them. If I can clean up the originals, I will. But I’m not holding out much hope there. 🙁

Thanks again for all the great info and feedback JKent. As I mentioned, I’ve got a busy weekend in store. And a couple of other projects on deck (whole other threads there! new to me Pioneer amp and Thorens turntable)… but the AR5s are a high priority for me after getting a little glimpse into what the final sound will be like. I will certainly post details of my progress.

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Sounds like you're on your way. Ask any and all questions and I hope other members will jump in.

Regarding the badges, they're pretty indestructible. I have one on my desk right now. They're thick solid brass with recessed lettering, filled with dark red enamel.

Depending on how rough yours are, put a piece of fine wet-or-dry sandpaper on a perfectly flat surface (glass is good). You might start with #600, wet. Rub the badge back and forth on the wet sandpaper until the scratches and old lacquer are off, then repeat with progressively finer sandpaper. For example, here's an assortment of sandpapers #400 - 3000: https://www.amazon.com/Sandpaper-Furniture-Finishing-Automotive-Polishing/dp/B01MYGPNFJ/ref=asc_df_B01LZ6TG05/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198089370656&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2638482431878040805&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003579&hvtargid=pla-382849354049&th=1 

If your sanding surface is perfectly flat the red paint should remain intact. If the paint needs to be touched up you can get a tiny bottle of Testors enamel in a hobby shop.

Once the sanding and polishing is complete, some restorers spray the badges with lacquer. Others dip the badges into a 50/50 solution of polyurethane and paint thinner. I prefer the method suggested by CSP Moderator Gene's grandmother: Rub a little olive on them. You may have to reapply the oil every couple of years but you don't have to worry about tarnish forming under lacquer.

As for the cloth, first try giving them a thorough vacuuming and brushing.

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Cbolen

These AR5s are similar to yours.

This is an old photo showing service replacement tweeters, designed for back wiring, adapted to a front wire baffle.  The tweeters have since been rebuilt but front wiring was preserved.

image.png.6c57ee7f8c1ba8a0a6d7847917bd255b.png

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On 7/12/2019 at 9:11 AM, cbolen said:

JKent - this is the Hi-Vi tweeter, correct? it's 6 ohms... this will work with the inductor with with my 8 ohm AR5s?

I see people mention in the reviews they've used with the AR2ax (8 ohm) and the AR3 (4 ohm)...

https://www.parts-express.com/hivi-q1r-1-1-8-textile-dome-tweeter--297-417#lblProductDetails

cbolen,

Speaking of impedance, you may want to take a resistance measurement of your mids, as they appear to be later replacements. It is not unusual to find the more common low impedance 3a mid used as a replacement in an AR-5. This is a more important consideration than your concern with the HiVi tweeter. The AR-5 mid should read around 5 ohms and the 3a mid will be around 3 ohms.

Roy

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