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ra.ra

AR-2x: odd mod

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Here is a very curious one. No affiliation, just posting for posterity - - for sale locally, this pair of pine AR-2x's has been augmented with extended cabinet compartment to include an additional Realistic dome tweeter (p/n 40-1276B), and then covered with a dull brown laminate. These cabinets now measure just slightly over 30" in long dimension.  

AR-2x mod 1.jpg

AR-2x mod 2.jpg

AR-2x mod 3.jpg

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Without actually hearing, or knowing anything OBJECTIVELY meaningful, beyond the visuals, these speakers you are posting the hypothetical inquiry about, is truly a total waste of time

YOURS and the forums

The may suck out loud (no pun intended) or they may well be a carefully and intelligently executed custom mod job that sounds wonderful  

But who the hell knows based on a picture and the color of the grille cloth?

For what it's worth, there's always plenty of room for improvement with the top end of any original 2x

You need more meaningful information

Craig 

 

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There are some objective observations we can make

  1. The photos clearly show that the top of the original cabinet is still in place, so there has been no change to its volume.
  2. Tweeters like the one added do not require cabinet volume.
  3. There's enough room on the rectangular panel opening  for a new panel with both the original and the added tweeter.

Which means that whatever you may think of the added cabinetry's visual appearance, it probably didn't change the sound at all. The tweeter did, of course. And with no level control on it, there's no control over that change.

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On 2/17/2018 at 10:24 AM, genek said:

There are some objective observations we can make

  1. The photos clearly show that the top of the original cabinet is still in place, so there has been no change to its volume.
  2. Tweeters like the one added do not require cabinet volume.
  3. There's enough room on the rectangular panel opening  for a new panel with both the original and the added tweeter.

Which means that whatever you may think of the added cabinetry's visual appearance, it probably didn't change the sound at all. The tweeter did, of course. And with no level control on it, there's no control over that change.

All true and pretty much goes without saying (as in obvious)

My comments were directed towards the speculative nature of the original post - not YOUR objective synopsis of the obvious

It's also clear (at least to these eyes) that whoever did the work did a right fair job, although not a very "pretty" one (but definitely looks to be a good solid execution, so some thought was definitely put into it)

Be good

Craig

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There was woodworking skill put into the cabinetry, but I would question how much thought, considering that the cabinetry was unnecessary for the addition of the tweeter.

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On 2/20/2018 at 8:19 AM, genek said:

There was woodworking skill put into the cabinetry, but I would question how much thought, considering that the cabinetry was unnecessary for the addition of the tweeter.

Whoever did it wanted a mirrored pair with an in-line array - like the L100 Century (original inline model)

The way he did it was about the simplest means to that end - especially as those obviously started out life as just (very early) AR-2s and not "x"s, AR-2as or 2-ax(s)

http://acousticresearchspeakers.net/category/ar-2/

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Yes, but look at the rectangular plate in the original cabinet. It's big enough for both the existing high/mid driver and the added tweeter. So the simplest way would have been to replace it with a new plate with openings for both. Just like the original L100.

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1 hour ago, genek said:

Yes, but look at the rectangular plate in the original cabinet. It's big enough for both the existing high/mid driver and the added tweeter. So the simplest way would have been to replace it with a new plate with openings for both. Just like the original L100.

Maybe he didn't want to chop it up

OR screw with box volume and stuffing (you yourself already alluded to the no change in box volume in post 3)

He also saved himself making new blocks to plug holes, bracing and cleats so again, we're back to altering box volume

I would prefer his add on section approach if for no other reason that if he was ever so inclined he could even do some "tweeter" rolling and never have to cut, open or change the original AR box sealing and tuning (stuffing especially) in any way

Why can't you just give the guy credit for possibly knowing more than you're giving him credit for just because you don't agree with his execution (or wouldn't have done it yourself, personally that way?)

In addition, the way he did it, he didn't have to even break the seal on the woofer or the box - very well conceived AND possibly reversible mod, depending on how he fixed his top section to the original cab

I wish all box mods with home tools would be so well thought out!

Craig

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What you're looking at in these pictures is pretty much the ultimate in "chopping them up."

None of the alternative steps you are listing would be necessary. Cut a new plate, bore two new driver openings, drill eight screw holes. Unscrew the old plate, wire up and reinstall the new one. Job done. 

It's the added on box that requires bracing and cleats. Not for sound quality, since that tweeter doesn't need any cabinet volume at all. Just to keep it from breaking off the top of the original cabinet.

Now, if he did it because he just wanted a tower instead of putting the speakers on stands, maybe you could justify it. Maybe.

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