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bigx5murf

My L710 Restoration

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bigx5murf    0

I found a pair of L710 in somewhat rough shape at goodwill for $15 a week ago. I've been slowly working on them as time permitted. So far, I've...

1-refoamed all 4 woofers, they were completely disintegrated, these were very difficult to align with test tones, took a few tries each, except for one which I got the first try.

2-replaced the 90uF cap on the crossover, this was surprisingly difficult to find. I ended up running a 68uF and 22uF cap in parallel instead. 

3-Installed 5 way binding posts. This was difficult to find ones long enough to work. The only ones I found were from PE, required boring out the contacts and PCB on the crossover.

They work, and sound great as is, but there's a few cosmetic issues I want to tackle. I'm going to replace the grill cloth, already have the cloth, not sure what glue to use. Can anyone recommend?

I want to refinish the cabinets, close to original as possible. The cabinets are in decent shape, but the inner panel on each is much better than the rest. One panel has the damage in the pic on it. What's the easiest way to get a nice even finish on these?

JnLXb7I.jpg

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JKent    0

Looks like you should be able to sand them lightly and then use some tinted Howard Restore-a-Finish to even it out.

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JKent    0

Here's a suggestion: First wipe down all sides with a solvent such as lacquer thinner or mineral spirits. Lightly sand the damaged panels and use the Restor-a-Finish Dark Walnut on the faded and damaged panels. It can be applied with a rag and wiped off. On the other surfaces, if no sanding is needed, use the R-a-F in Neutral. Then compare the sides and if any sides need to be darkened any use the Dark Walnut.

When it's thoroughly dry, you could use Watco Oil, or just wax (like Howard Feed n Wax). Don't use any hard finish like lacquer or varnish. Some people like to use the Mahogany Watco oil to give the walnut a warmer, slightly reddish tone. Experiment.

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GD70    0

You basically stole those for 15 bucks! The L710's are highly regarded.

Kents suggestions are good, except it will be difficult to match the original finish if you only work on the one surface. You may get it close and be happy, but if these were mine, no question the original finish would be removed, all surfaces sanded and any veneer repairs made if necessary.

By starting clean with all surfaces stripped to the veneer, your final finish will be even. It all depends on how much work you want to put into them. I'd love to see more pics showing the complete cabs, drivers and crossovers.

I'm surprised the surrounds needed replacing. Being butyl rubber, they usually hold up very well. My 910's from 1977 surrounds are in great shape.

Glenn

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JKent    0

Glenn's method is better. My suggestion is easier. Depends on how much work you want to put into them. I was responding to "What's the easiest way to get a nice even finish on these?"

Just be really careful when sanding, especially on the edges and corners. Veneer is thin and goofs can't be undone.

-Kent

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GD70    0
On 10/13/2017 at 11:48 PM, JKent said:

Glenn's method is better. My suggestion is easier. Depends on how much work you want to put into them. I was responding to "What's the easiest way to get a nice even finish on these?"

Just be really careful when sanding, especially on the edges and corners. Veneer is thin and goofs can't be undone.

-Kent

Hey Kent,

No question your suggestion is the easier route.

I'm just stupid anal about stuff like that!

Cheers, Glenn

 

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